NAVY MIL-DTL-82189 C-1997 COAT MAN-S - FULL DRESS U S MARINE BAND OFFICER-S《美国舰队官员男士礼服外套》.pdf

1、MIL-DTL-ZL89C = b 2Ob b7T M I INCH-POUND I DETAIL MIL-DTL-82 18 9C (MC) 30 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-82 18 9B (MC) 22 June 1995 S PECI FI CAT ION COAT, MANS - FULL DRESS, U.S. MARINE BAND, OFFICERS This specification is approved for use by U.S.-Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is avail

2、able for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a U.S. Marine Band Officers full dress coat. 1.2. Classification. The coats will be of one type in the following classes and sizes as specified (see 6.2). Cl

3、ass 1 - Director, Coat, Full Dress, B1a.ck Class 2 - Assistant Director, Coat Full Dress, Scarlet Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions; deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Comma

4、nd, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction o

5、r networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-DTL-821892 (MC) Schedule of sizes (Short, Reqular, Lonq, Extra Lonq) 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 44 46 1.3. Individual orders. When the coat is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except the detailed require

6、ments of Section 3, Table I may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections

7、of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or

8、not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue

9、of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPEC I FI CAT IONS FEDERAL A-A-50186 - Cloth, Cotton, Buckram A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester C

10、ore, Cotton or Polyester A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton A-A-52097 - Cloth, Wigan, Cotton Covered (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-DTL-8218 9C (MC) A

11、-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave Polyester and DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing Equipage, and Tentage, Polyester Blend (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-DTL-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-P-15064 - Pads, Shoulder

12、and Sleeve-Head MIL-L-17507 - Lace, Ornamental MIL-E-20652 - Eyelets, Metallic, Eyelet Washers, (General Specification For) MIL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tropical, Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-DTL-82114 - Coat Front - For Coats, Musicians MIL-DTL-82194 - Ornamentation - For Jacket, Mans Evening Dress STAN DARDS

13、FE DERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2

14、.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the

15、 issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). ASTM E1282 - Standard Guide for Specifying the Chemical Compositions and Selecting Sampling Practices and Quantitative Analysis Methods for Metals and Alloys (Application for copies sho

16、uld be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103.) 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82LBYC 6 9999906 2086902 T4 H MIL-DTL-82 18 9C (MC) ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedu

17、res and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Application for copies should be addressed to the American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036.) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 (Application for cop

18、ies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927. ) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein (except for related associated specifications or specific

19、ation sheets), the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the cont

20、ractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic ma

21、terial for each class of coat shall be as follows: 3.3.1.1. Class 1. Cloth, polyester and wool, tropical, black, shade 2607, 10.5 ounce; conforming to type III of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.1.2. Class 2. Cloth, wool, tropical, scarlet, shade 2502, 10.5 ounce, conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.

22、2 Lininq. The material for lining the coats and collar and for making the underarm shields, collar eyelet covers, coat hanger and straps to secure the lining to the bottom edge of the 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82L89C I

23、I 9999b 2086903 120 RU MIL-DTL-8218 9C (MC) coat shall be cloth, rayon twill, black, shade 2604 for class 1 and scarlet, shade 2506 for class 2, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Cloth, twill or plain weave polyester. The stays for the armhole and shoulder seams, reinforcement pieces for the

24、 collar eyelets, bindings for the lower edge of the collar, and neck edge of the coat front interlinings shall be cut from cloth, polyester or polyester blend, conforming to A-A-52106, except the requirement for non-fibrous material and seam efficiency shall not apply. The polyester or polyester ble

25、nd shall be khaki, shade 3707 for the armhole and shoulder seam stays, the collar eyelet reinforcement pieces and the binding for the neck edge of front interlining; and black for the binding for the lower edge of the collar interlining. 3.3.4 Collar interlininq. The material for the collar interlin

26、ing shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, double texture, laminated, starch finish, natural color, conforming to type IV of A-A-50186. The weight of the laminated cloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces per square yard. 3.3.4.1. Plastic. The plastic strip used in the collar interlining shall be clear plastic stoc

27、k, 0.020 inch thick. It shall be cut using the cotton buckram pattern. 3.3.4.2. Plastic interlininq. The plastic interlining must withstand wet (dry) cleaning. It must not melt or become distorted under wet (dry) cleaning or pressing. 3.3.5 Reinforcement disc. The reinforcement discs for buttons sec

28、ured to the side seam, with ring toggles, shall be punched from the cloth, cotton, buckram specified in 3.3.4. The reinforcement discs shall be 7/8 inch in diameter with a 1/8 inch diameter hole at the center. 3.3.6 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to the requirements of class 1 of MIL-DTL

29、-82114. 3.3.7 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to the requirements of type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.8 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to the requirements of type IV of MIL-P-15064. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without

30、 license from IHS-,-,-flIL-DTL-BZ187C 9999906 2086904 Bb7 M MIL-DTL-8218 9C (MC) 3.3.9 Stav tape. The stay tape for the armhole shall be cotton, unbleached, 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-52071, except the requirement for non-fibrous material shall not apply. 3.3.10 Pipinq. The

31、 piping materials for the front and bottom edges of the coat and the ornamental back patch shall be cut 1-1/8 inches wide and shall conform to the following: 3.3.10.1.Class 1. Cloth, wool, tropical, scarlet, shade 2502, 10.5 ounce, conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.10.2.Class 2. Clot

32、h, polyester and wool, tropical, black, shade 2607, 8.5 to 9.5 ounce, conforming to type III of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.11 Bindinq. The binding for the collar interlining shall be cut one inch wide from the following materials: a. Upper edge of collar interlining - cloth, b. Lower edge of collar interlinin

33、g and underarm shields - polyester/wool blend as specified in 3.3.10. cloth, polyester or polyester blend as specified in 3.3.3. 3.3.12 Wiqan. The material for reinforcing the bottom edge of the sleeves shall be cloth, cotton, wigan, 2.5 ounces, conforming to A-A-52097. 3.3.13 Threads. 3.3.13.1.Silk

34、 thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196 as follows, except the requirements for extractable material shall not apply. Use Type Class Ticket No. Ply Bartacks and all outside seaming and stitching. - A - I - O Machine felling. - - Making buttonholes in coat. I - B and F 3 Hand felling; and

35、 hand sewing. III 3 C 2 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-DTL-82189C lH 9991906 2086905 7T3 MIL-DTL-8218 9C (MC) 3.3.13.2.Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094 as follows: Use Type Ticket No. Ply _ All insid

36、e seaming and stitching. III A Serging and overedge stitching. I 70 Machine tacking armholes and sewing I 24 on buttons. The thread for basting shall be good commercial grade cotton. As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester core, cotton or polyester covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, t

37、icket No. 50, 2 ply or ticket No. 70, 2 ply may be used. 3.3.13.3.Color and colorfastness. All thread shall be black shade for class 1 coats and scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040 for class 2 coats, except the silk thread for stitching the braid shall be yellow and the cotton thread for tacking the s

38、leeve lining, hand felling facing to interlining, and basting and machine tacking armholes may be white. The colored thread shall show the following colorfastness when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification (see DoD Standard Color Card of Standardized Shades For Sewing Threads 19

39、68). Thread Color Wet (dry) cleaning Light Cotton Scarlet Good - Silk Scarlet Fair Fair Silk Black Good Good 3.3.14 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be black for class 1 coats and scar

40、let, shade W, cable No. 66040 for class 2 coats and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82L89C ai 99999Ob 208b90b b3T m MIL-DTL-82 18 9C (MC) 3.3.15 Ornamental braid. The ornamenta

41、l braid for the coat fronts shall conform to the following requirements when tested as specified in Section 4, Table III: Cover - material (covering) - color of wire - metal wire (undercoating) - plating material - winding thread Core (Stuffer) - material - number of threads (minimum) - ply of threa

42、d (minimum) - color Weave - number of carrier (minimum) - ends/carriers - shape - width (inch) (minimum) - weight/linear yd. (grains) Metal content (%) - gold - silver - copper Fastness to - water - wet (dry) cleaning 3.3. 16 Buttons. metal thread light gold silver and copper gold 2 ply white or yel

43、low cotton thread cotton thread (soft) 7 2 gold plain braided 12 6-8 (total 79) tubular 3/8 + 1/16 154.5 0.3 0.6 remainder (traces of nickel and zinc) good good 3.3.16.1.Insiqnia button. The insignia buttons shall be metal, gold plated, 27-line for ornamental sleeve patches; and 40-line 8 Provided b

44、y IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82L89C m 777770b 2086707 57b II MIL-DTL-82189C (MC) for fronts and back patches, conforming to type I, style 3, class A, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.16.2.Rinq toqqle. Ring toggles for securing the 27-

45、line buttons to ornamental sleeve patches and the 40-line buttons to the fronts and ornamental back panel shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.17 Collar closure for hook and eye. The hook and eye for closing the collar shall be brass, black japanned finish or black chemical finish followed by a clear

46、lacquer coating and conform to the requirements of Figure 13. 3.3.17.1.Eyelets. The eyelets for the collar shall be brass, rolled flange type, with barrel scored 6 to 8 scores. The eyelets shall conform to MIL-E-20652, sheet 1A-BE108 and be enameled in a black shade. 3.3.18 Labels. Each coat shall h

47、ave a combination instruction/identification label and a size label as follows. The coat is intended to be wet (dry) cleaned and the labels shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.18.1.Combination instruction/identification label. The combination instruction/identification label shall conform

48、 to type VI, classes 1 and 3 (combined) of DDD-L-20 except all printing and the space between the lines of printing shall be minimum 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The content and format shall be as follows: Nomenclature: (item description) Contract number: Date: Name of contractor: Wool Product

49、s Act information: DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.3.18.2.Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letters S (short), R (regular) , L (long) , or XL (extra long), as shown by the following example: 40R 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-