NAVY MIL-E-17568 C-1980 EMBROIDERY MATERIALS METALLIC AND SYNTHETIC METALLIC《金属和合成金属装饰原料》.pdf

1、MIL-E-L75bC 3 m 7999706 038052LI 9 m - . MILITARY SPECIFICATION 24 January 1980 SUPERSEDING MIL-E-17568B (SA) 4 March 1974 ENBROIDERY MATERIALS, NETALLIC AND SYNTHETIC METALLIC This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textilecs Research Facility, Department of the Navy and is

2、available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. : 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope This specification covers requirements- for metallic and synthetic metallic embroidery materials. 1.2 Classification Embroidery materials covered by this specification shall be of the following types

3、 and classes as specified (see 6.2): Type 1 5Pe II Type III - Synthetic Metallic - Gold, defined as 24 karat gold over silver - Silver, defined as 960 fine (minimum) defined as 960 fine (minimum) * 1.2.1 Classes Types I Class 1 - Matte bullion and II Class-2 - Shine bullion Class 3 - Light jaceron C

4、lass 4 - Heavy jaceron Class 5 - Frieze Class 6 - Lame Class 7 - Spangle Class 8 - Gold synthetic Class 9 - Silver synthetic Class 10- Silver synthetic Class 11- Gold synthetic Type III Beneficial comments (recommendations, addltians, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improvin

5、g this document should be addressed to: Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760, or by using the self-addressed standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. FSC 8315 Provided by IHSNot for R

6、esaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-E-1 75 6 8C (NU) 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS *2.1 Issues of documents The following documents of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal form a part of this specification to the extent specif

7、ied herein: STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods MILITARY MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes LAWS AND REGULATIONS US POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, US Government Printing Office,

8、 Washington, DC 20402). (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.) 2.2 Other publications The following documents

9、 form a part of this specifi- cation to the extent specified herein. the issues in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply. Unless a specific issue is indicated, NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT (Application ATTN: Traffic (Application National

10、 Motor Freight Classification for copies should be addressed to American Trucking Association, Department, 1616 P Street, NW, Washington, DC 20036.) UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COWITTEE, AGENT - Uniform Freight Classification for copies Committee, Room 1106, 222 should be addressed to the Uniform Classif

11、ication South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, ILL 60606.) 3. REQUIREMENT 2 . . . Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- flIL-E-L7568C 83 7777906 0380526 2 MIL-E-17568C (NU) 3.1 Guide sample Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and inf

12、ormation to the contractor (see 6.3). appear in the samples, in which case this specification shall govern. Variation from the specification may *3.2 First article When specified (see 6.2), th contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.2). 3.3 Materials

13、3.3.1 Type I - Gold The gold embroidery materials shall consist of 24 karat gold, plated to a silver wire core and shall conform to the requirements of table I. than 2.0% by weight of the total embroidery material and the silver shall be 960 fine (minimum). When tested as specified in 4.4.1, the gol

14、d shall be not less 3.3.2 Type II - Silver The silver embroidery materials shall be 960 fine (minimum), conforming to the requirements of Table I, when tested as specified in 4.4.2. Table I - Construction and physical requirements Dimensions (inches) i/ Wire Wire Wire Finished mat- Material Class Ma

15、terial Typ e size 2/ tolerance erial size tolerance 1 Matte bullion Round .O038 - +.O001 .O40 dia. - + .O05 2 Shine bullion Flat .0027x.0055 +.O001 ,040 dia. - + .O05 3 Light Half jaceron Round .O115 - +.O001 .O36 dia. - + .O05 4 Heavy Half jaceron Round .O135 +.O001 .O40 dia. - + .O05 5 Frieze Flat

16、 .0027x.0055 z.0001 .O40 dia. - + .O05 6, Lame Flat - - . O91 wide - + .o01 .O017 thick - + .o001 .O07 thick - + .o001 7. Spangle Round - - .145 dia. - + .O15 - - i/ The size of round wires shall be the diameter, and of flat wires the thickness and width. and spangles. Classes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 shal

17、l be tightly coiled. The material size shall-be the outside diameter except for lame The size for the lame shall be the thickness and width. - 2/ All classes except class 7 are constructed from a single strand of wire. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without li

18、cense from IHS-,-,-, MIL-E-l7568C(Nv) *3.3.3 Metallic yarn, smcketic (Type III) The synthetic metallic yarn shall consist of a synthetic metallic ribboa wound evenly and uniformly around a core yarn. size 225 (-5, 1.15) denier and the synthetic ribbon shall be wound with 26 (2 2) turns per inch. (5

19、5) denier and the synthetic ribbon shall be wound with 44 (5 2) turns per inch, The finished yarn for classes 8, 9, and 10 shall be The fhished yarn for Class 11 shall be size 400 Testing shall be as specTlfied in 4.3.2. *3.3.3.1 Core yarn The core yarn for classes 8, 9 and 10 shall be of any suitab

20、le fiber, size or denier and tensile strength to produce a finish yarn suitable for Schiffli embroidery execution. color to match the colored synthetic ribbon cover. The core yarn shall be of a The core yarn for Class 11 shall be a 3 ply, 70 denier, continuous filament, white nylon. I I *3.3.3.2 Syn

21、thetic metallic ribbon (gold, Class 8 and 11) The construction for the gold synthetic metallic ribbon shall be as specified in 3.3,3.2.1 and 3.3.3.2.2, *3,3.3.2.1 Synthetic metallic ribbon (gold Class 8) The basic material shall be a metallic-silver polyester film, gold colored and cut to the specif

22、ied width. be 0,00075 e 0.00005) inch thick. colorant encased between a clear polyester film, 0.005 inch thick and a metallic-silver surface produced by the vacuum evaporation or deposition technique. The silver surface shall be backed with a substrate material suitable for the purpose intended. The

23、 synthetic-ribbon shall finish 1/69 to 1/64 inch wide and shall The ribbon shall consist of a gold Testing shall be as specified in 4.3.2. *3.3.3.2.2 Synthetic metallic ribbon (gold, Class 11) The synthetic metallic gold yarn shall be made of two, clear polyester films, 0.0005 (2 0.00005) inch thick

24、 One surface shall be coated with a gold colorant. colored surface shall then be subjected to a vacuum evaporation process in which a fine deposit of metallic aluminum is adhered to it. aluminum surface film is then laminated to the other clear polyester film with a polyester cross linking adhesive

25、 which contains a gold colorant, to form a single composite sheet 0.00100 (2 0.00005) inch thick. sheet shall be cut or slit into ribbons finishing 1/69 to 1/64 inch wide. Testing shall be as specified in 4.3.2. The gold The metallized The metallic *3,3,3,3 Synthetic metallic ribbon (silver, classes

26、 9 and 10) The con- struction for the silver synthetic metallic ribbon shall be as specified in 3,3.3.3.1 or 3.-3.3.3.2 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-E-L7568C 83 m 799990b 0380528 b m MIL-E-17568C (NU) *3.3.3.3.1 Synthetic met

27、allic ribbon (silver, class 9) The basic material shall be a metallic-aluminum polyester film laminate, cut to the specified width. and shall be 0.00075 (2 0.00005) inch thick. metallic-aluminum encased or laminated between two clear polyester films with adhesives suitable to form a single composite

28、 sheet. shall be produced by the vacuum evaporation or deposition technique. Testing shall be as specified in4.3.2. The synthetic silver ribbon shall finish 1/69 to 1/64 inch wide The ribbon shall consist of a The aluminum surface *3.3.3.3.2 Syi The basic materia! shall be a metallic-silver polyeste

29、r film cut to the specified width. The synthetic metallic ribbon shall finjsh 1/69 to 1/64 inch wide and shall be 0.00075 (C 0.00005) inch thick. The ribbon shall consist of pure silver encased bitween a clear polyester film, 0.0005 inch thick. The metallic silver surface shall be produced by the va

30、cuum evaporation or deposition technique. The silver surface shall be backed .aith a substrate material suitable for the purpose intended. The core yarn used (see 3.3.3.1) shall be white. Testing shall be as specified in 4.3.2. 3.3.3.4 Colorfastness The combined type III core yarn and synthetic meta

31、llic ribbon cover shall show good colorfastness to dry cleaning, dry and wet heat, crocking, perspiration, bleaching, light, and weathering when tested as specified in 4.3.2. 3.3.3.5 Solvent resistance The synthetic metallic ribbon cover shall not show any evidence of discoloration or become tacky w

32、hen tested as specified in 4.3.2. 3.3.4 Lacquer Unless otherwise specified (see 6.21, all classes for Types I and II shall -be evenly and thoroughly lacquered with a pale, clear, synthetic lacqUer. The use of pigmented lacquers are prohibited. The dry lacquer film shall be continuous, level, adheren

33、t, and essentially free from lint, dust and other foreign inclusions. The contractor shall furnish a Certificate of Compliance stating that the embroidery material has been lacquered (see 4.3.2.1). 3.5 Workmanship The finished item shall conform to the quality of product established by this specific

34、ation. not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels. Occurrence of defects shall 4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-E-17568C 83 W 7777906 0380527 8 m MIL-E-17568C (NU) - 4.1 Responsibility for

35、 inspection Unless otherwise specified in the Except as specified in the contract or contract, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all Inspection requirements as specified herein. order, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspe

36、ction requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements. The Government reserves the right to 4.1.1 Certific

37、ate of compliance Where certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification. 4.2 First article inspection The first article submitted in accordance with 3.2, shall be inspected as specified in 4.3.1.1 and

38、 4.3.1.2 for compliance with design, construction, workmanship and dimensions. 4.3 Quality conformance inspection Inspection for quality conformance shall be in accordance with the provisions set forth in MIL-STD-105, except where otherwise indicated herein. 4.3.1 Examination of the end item The def

39、ects found during the examination of the end item shall be classified in accordance with 4.3.1.1 and 4.3.1.2. The applicable inspection levels and acceptable quality levels (AQLs) shall be as indicated in 4.3.3. The sample unit shall be one finished, 12 inch length for classes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, 1

40、2 finished spangles for class 7 and one cone or bobbin of finished synthetic metallic material for classes 8, 9, 10 and 11. The lot size shall be expressed in terms of the sample unit. 4.3.1.1 Visual examination The finished embroidery material shall be examined and classified in accordance with the

41、 defects listed below. Examine Type or class Color Finish .I Material and construction 1. 2. 1. 2. 3. 1. 2. 3. Defect Other than specified. Not comparable to sample Not color specified Gold plating chipped, tarnished, peeled, Lacquer missing, tacky, not adherent Dirt, grease, discolored Not coiled t

42、ightly (when specified) Material or construction not as specified Broken, cut, bent or damaged not continuous 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-1 flIL-E-175bC 83 m 9993906 0380530 4 m - MIL-E-1756 8C (NU) 4.3.1.2 Dimensional examinati

43、on The finished Type I and Type II embroidery material shall be examined for defects in dimensions. measurement deviating from specified dimensions and tolerances specified in Table I, shall be scored a defect. Any 4.3.2 Testing of the end item The finished metallic and synthetic metallic embroidery

44、 material shall be tested for characteristics listed in Table II. The finisied sample unit for testing, when applicable, shall be as follows: one 12 inch length for classes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6; 12 spangles for class 7; for type III, classes 8, 9. 10 and 11 one cone, spool or bobbin or sufficient amo

45、unt to total a minimum of 360 yards. in terms of the sample unit. unit fails to meet the .requirements specified. accordance with the following: The lot size shall be expressed The lot shall be unacceptable if any sample The-sample size shall be in Lot size Sample size (No. of sample units) 800 or l

46、ess 801 thru 22,000 22,001 and over *Table II - Testing of end item 2 3 5 Characteristic Requirement paragraph Test method Synthetic yarn (combined metallic ribbon synthetic metallic embroidery materials packaged as specified in 5.1, shall be packed in a manner to insure carrier acceptance and safe

47、delivery at destination at the lowest transportation rate for such supplies. Containers shall comply with the US Postal Service Manual, Uniform Freight Classification Rules, or National Motor Freight Classification Rules, as applicable. 10 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking p

48、ermitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-E-17568C (NU) 5.3 Markin Shipping containers and inter-Jr packages shall be marked I stock number, contractors name, and contract number. in accordance with the contractors standard practice or as specified by the procuring activity. As a minimum, container

49、markings shall include the 6. NOTES 6.1 Intended use The metallic and synthetic metallic embroidery materials covered by this specification are intended for use in the manufacture of embroidered insignia used by the Navy and Coast Guard. 6.2 Ordering data Procurement documents should specify the following: a. b. Types and classes required (see 1.2) C. Availability of guide sample (see 3.1) d. When a first article is required