NAVY MIL-L-17507 F-1978 LACE ORNAMENTAL《装饰蕾丝》.pdf

1、- MIL-L- 17 50 7F 2778 SUPERSEDING MIL-L-17 50 7 E. 21 September 1972 MILITARY SPECIFICATION LACE, ORNAMENTAL This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for woven and braided gold

2、 lace. * 1.2 Classification. classes, styles, substyles, and color patterns (see 6.2): The gold lace shall be of the following types, Type.1 - Lace gold wire Type II - Lace gold thread Class 1- Silver base wire Class 2- White metal base wire Class 3- Metallic silver plastic film Class 4- Metallic al

3、uminum plastic film Class 5- Metallic, aluminum gold yarn Style A- Plain Style B- Interwoven Stripe Substyle B1- Warpwise (Army) Substyle B2- FillingG7ise (Navy) 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS * 2.1 Issues of documents. effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this spec

4、ification to the extent specified herein: The following documents of the issue in Beneficial comments recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 2

5、1 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. PSC 8315 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-L-17 507F SP

6、ECIFICATIONS FEDERAL P-D-680 - Dry Cleaning Solvent PPP-B- 636 - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard MILITARY MIGE-17568 - Embroidery Materials, Metallic and Synthetic Metallic STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspecti

7、on - Marking for Shipment and Storage by-Attributes (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.) LAWS AND REGULATIONS

8、 U.S. POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402). 2.2 0.ther publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. the issue in effect on

9、date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply: Unless otherwise indicated, NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to American Trucking Associations, ATTN: Tariff Order Section, 1616 P

10、 Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036.) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-L-17507F UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classifi- cation Co

11、mmittee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606.) COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES, INC. United States Army Standard Color Card for Official Colors for Arms and Services (Application for copies shall be addressed to Color Association of the United States, 200 Madison Ave

12、nue, New York, New York 10016.) 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Guide samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 Standard sample. The f

13、inished gold lace shall match the standard sample for shade, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is refernced .(see 6.3). 3.3 First article approval. The requirement for first article will be as specified by the p

14、rocuring activity (see 6.2). 3.4 Materials. 3.4.1 Lace gold wire. The gold wire used to form the covering of the type I gold lace, shall be either a Class 1 - Silver base wire or a Class 2 - White metal base wire, conforming to the respective requirements specified in 3.4.4.1 and 3.4.4.2. 3.4.2 Lace

15、 gold thread. The gold thread used to form the covering of the type II gold lace, shall consist of a flattened wire or an imitation gold ribbon, conforming to the requirements specified in 3.4.2.1 and 3.4.2.2. 3.4.2.1 Flattened wire. The gold wire shall conform to the requirements of either the Clas

16、s 1 - Silver base wire (see 3.4.4.1) or a Class 2 - White metal base wire (see 3.4.4.2)., except ,that the wire shall be flattened. The wire shall be wound evenly and uniformly around a core of yarn conforming to the requirements specified in 3.4.3.1. * 3.4.2.2 Imitation gold ribbon. The imitation g

17、old ribbon shall con- form to the requirements of either the Class 3 - Metallic silver plastic film (see 3.4.4.3) or Class 4 - Metallic aluminum plastic film (see 3.4.4.4) or Class 5 - Metallic aluminum gold yarn (see 3.4.4.5). ribbon shall be wound evenly and uniformly around a core of yani conform

18、ing to the requirements specified in 3.4.3.1. The 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-L-17507F 83 7797906 038049q 4 MIL-L-17507F 3.4.3 Yarns. * 3.4.3.1 Core yarn. The core yarn used with the flattened gold wire or imitation gold ri

19、bbon coverings shall be 2 or 3 ply nylon, rayon, or mercerized cotton yarn and tested as specified in 4.4.1. The color of the core yarn shall be yellow or gold. 3.4.3.2 .Warp (stuffer and binder) yarns. The warp (stuffer and binder) yarns used itn types I and II woven gold lace shall be 2 or 3 ply n

20、ylon, rayon, or mercerized cotton yarnand tested as specified in 4.4.1. (see 2.2). The yarns shall be gold in color and match cable no. 65002 3.4.3.3 Filler yarn. The filler yarn used in.types I and II braided The yarn shall be gold in color gold lace shall be 2 or 3 ply nylon, rayon, or mercerized

21、cotton yarn and tested as specified in 4.4.1. and match cable no. 65002 (see 2.2). 3.4.3.4 Interwoven stripe yarn. The interwoven stripe yarn used in . types I and II, style B gold lace shall be 2 or 3 ply nylon, rayon, or The color of mercerized cotton yarn and tested as specified in 4.4.1. the yar

22、n shall be as specified in table II: (Army) and table III (Navy). 3.4.3.5 Labile sulfur. The use of dyes.and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid is prohibited. The dyestuff shall be chosen and applied so that the dyed and finished yarn shall contain no more l

23、abile sulfur than shown by the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.4.1. When a standard sample is not available, the dyed and finished.yarn shall show no more than a slight trace of labile sulfur as defined in the test method specified in 4.3.1. 3.4.3.6 Colorfastness of dyed-yarns. The dye

24、d yarn shall show a minimum of “good“ fastness to light and wet-dry cleaning when tested as specified in 4.4.1. 3.4.4 Coverings. 3.4.4.1 Class 1 - Silver base wire. When Class 1 wire is specified (see 6.21, the base wire shall be made of silver, rounded in shape, The base wire shall assay not less t

25、han 990 fine silver, and shall be evenly and thoroughly electroplated with not less than 2 percent 24 Karat gold when tested as specified in 4.4.1. 3.4.4.2 Class 2 - White metal base wire. When Class 2 wire is specified (see 6.21, the base wire shall be a white metal rounded in shape evenly and thor

26、oughly electroplated with not less than 2 percent 24 karat gold. parts per thousand) before electroplating shall assay as follows (see 4.4.1). The metal content of the white metal (taken on a basis of 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,

27、-MIL-L-17507F 83 7977706 0380475 b m - - MIL-L-17507F silver - 22.5 (min) Nickel - 48.0 (min) Zinc - 19.5 (min) Copper - Remainder 3.4.4.3 Class 3 - metallic silver plastic film. When class 3 metallic silver plastic film is specified (see 6.2), the imitation gold ribbon shall finish ,014 to .O16 inc

28、h (0.35 to 0.40 mm) wide by 0.00070 to 0.00080 inch (0.019 to 0.020 mm) thick. The ribbon shall consist of a gold colorant sandwiched between a 0.0005 inch (0.013 mm) clear polyester film and a metallic silver surface produced by the vacuum evaporation or deposition technique. backed with a substrat

29、e material suitable for the purpose intended. gold color shall be of a luster and color to provide a match in the finished lace form to the approved standard, and meet the requirements specified herein (see 4.4.1). The silver surface shall be The 3.4.4.4 Class 4 - metallic aluminum plastic film. Whe

30、n Class 4 metallic aluminum plastic film is specified (see 6.2), the imitation gold ribbon shall finish approximately 0.016 inch (0.4Omm) wide by 0.0015 inch (0.038mm) thick. The ribbon shall be of either one, two, or three plies of clear polyester film of which the inner ply shall have a metallic a

31、luminum surface produced by the vacuum evaporation or deposition technique (aluminum foil of the appropriate thickness can be substitutedlon either one side or both sides (back to back) laminated with a polyester-cross linking adhesive (if applicable) to form a single composite sheet. a match betwee

32、n the finished lace and the approved standard sample and meet the requirements specified herein (see 4.4.1). * 3.4.4.5 Class 5 - Metallic, aluminum (gold) yarn. The class 5 synthetic metallic aluminum (gold) yarn shall conform to the require- ments of Type III, Class 11 of MIL-E-17568. The gold colo

33、r shall be of a luster and shade to provide 3.4.5 Finish. The types I and II, ciasses 1 and 2, gold lace shall be evenly and thoroughly lacquered with a clear synthetic lacquer. use of pigmented lacquers are prohibited. The dry lacquer film shall be continuous, level, adherent, and essentially free

34、from lint, dust, and other foreign inclusions (see 4.4.1) . The 3.5 Construction. 3.5.1 Style A (Plain) gold wire lace. When specified (see 6.2), the style A (Plain) gold wire lace shall conform to the physical requirements listed in table I when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.5.2 Style B (Interwoven

35、) gold thread lace. When specified (see 6.21, the style B (Interwoven) gold thread lace shall conform to the physical requirements listed in tables II and III when tested as specified in 4.5. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-L-17

36、507F 83 7777706 0380476 8 MIL-L-17507F * - Type I I I I I I I II II II II II II II II II II II II II II Table I - Physical requirements for Types I and II, Classes 1 through 5, style A (Plain) Width, inches A/. (min. 118 braid 2/ 114 112 314 1 1 112 2 118 118 114 114 318 braid 318 318 112 112 braid

37、314 1 1 112 1 314 2 No. of Vellum 2 2 2 2 2 :2 2 1 2 2 1 2 2 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Weight of metal per Yard (i grams Class 4.60. 4.80 9.90 13.70 18.70 28.50 38.00 1.85 1.85 3.15 - - 4.40 4.40 5.80 8.48 10.80 16.50 20.20 23.50 - 9) of lice, iin.) 31 class 2 3.70 3.74 7.75 10.99 15.00 22.30 30.00 1.45 1.45

38、2.47 - - 3.45 3.45 4.55 6.60 8.50 13.00 15.75 18.30 - Pick; Clas, 1 250 280 280 260 260 260 260 270 270 270 - - 270 270 270 270 270 270 270 270 - per i Class 2 250 280 280 260 260 260 260 270 270 270 - - 270 270 270 270 270 270 270 270 salt water and soap; dry and wet heat; light; weathering; crocki

39、ng; perspiration; and chlorine bleaching equal to or better than the standard sample. available, the gold lace shall show a minimum of “good“ fastness to dry cleaning; salt water and soap; dry and wet heat; light; perspiration; and chlorine bleaching; a minimum of “fair“ fastness to “weathering“; an

40、d a Munsell Value for crocking not lower than 8.5. performed as specified in 4.5. When no standard sample is Tests shall be * 3.7 Durability of color. shall not discolor when tested as specified in 4.5.1. Type II gold lace, classes 3, 4, and 5 * 3.8 Tackiness. Type II gold lace, classes 3, 4, and 5

41、shall not become tacky when tested as specified in 4.5.2. 3.9 Corrosion Resistance. Types I and II gold lace, class 1 shall show no signs of corrosion when tested as specified in 4.5.3. 3.10 Length, Unless otherwise specified (see .6,2), the gold lace shall be put on rolls of not less than 25 contin

42、uous yards. 3.11 Workmanship. The finished gold lace shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. .The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels. 4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise sp

43、ecified in the contract, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified h

44、erein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspection set forth in specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements. 4.1.1 Certificate of compliance. Where certificat

45、es of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification. 4.2 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows: a. First article inspection (see 4.3). b. Quality conf

46、ormance inspection (see 4.4). 4.3 First article inspection. When required (see 6.2), the first article submitted in accordance with 3.3 specified in 4.4.2 for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, and dimensional requirements. shall be visually inspected as 10 Provided by IHSNot for Res

47、aleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-L-37507F 83 9777906 0380503 8 MIL-L-17507F 4.4 Quality conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-105, except where otherwise indicated.hereinafter. * 4.4.1 Component and ma

48、terial inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be inspected and tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase docu

49、ment, A certificate of compliance shall be submitted and will be acceptable for the: - yarn identification and ply requirements of 3.4.3.1 thru 3.4;3.4 - metal content requirements of 3.4.4.2 - plastic film requirements of 3.4.4.3 and 3.4.4.4 - metallic yarn requirements of 3.4.4.5 and - lacquer requirements of 3.4.5 - anti-tarnish tissue paper requirement of 5.1.1 In addition, materials listed in Table IV shall be tested for the char