NAVY MIL-O-2414 H-1988 OVERCOAT MAN-S ENLISTED《男式制式外套》.pdf

1、MIL-0-2414H(NU) 15 AUG 1988 SUPERSEDING MIL-0-2414G(NU) 15 August 1984 MILITARY SPECIFICATION OVERCOAT, MANrS, ENLISTED This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the D

2、epartment of Defense. 1. SCOPE . This specification covers the requirements for the enlisted breasted service blue overcoat (pea coat). 1.2 Classification. The overcoat shall be of one type only and in the following Sizes and lengths (see 6.2): Sizes - 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, and

3、 52 Lengths - short, regular, long, and extra-long Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, M?i

4、 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. mcm FSC 8405 Distribution Statement A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS A/( PAGES. Provided by IHSNot

5、 for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Un

6、less otherwise specified, the issue of these documents shall be thoes listed in the issue of the Department of Defense index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplelment thereto, cited in the solication. SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL C-F-206 V-B-871 V-T-276 V-T-280 V-T-285 NN-P-71 ccc-c-441 DDD

7、-L-20 DDD-L-86 MI LI TARY MIL-C-297 MIL-B-371 MIL-C-15011 MIL-P-15064 MIL-C-15065 MIL-C-16290 MIL-C-16375 MIL-B-17143 MIL-C-17155 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-21852 MIL-C-43525 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-43718 MIL-(2-44192 - Feit Sheet: Cloth, Felt, Wool, Pressed - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic) - Th

8、read, Cotton - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole - Thread, Polyester - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer - Cloth, Corduroy, Cotton - Label; for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Construction, 2 Way and 4 way (Partial) Use ) Bleached

9、, or Dyed) - Cloth, . Interlining, Cotton Warp, and Spun - Braid, Textile (Tubular) - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head - Coat, Fronts - Cloth, Melton, Wool (Moth Proofed) - Cloth, Wigan, Cotton - Button, Insignia, (Anchor, Plastic, Black) - Cloth,

10、Knitted, Nylon Fleece - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard, (Modular Sizes - Cloth, Taffeta, Nylon - Cloth, Satin, Acetate or Rayon Face and Rayon or - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or - Cloth, Twill, Polyester, Polyester and Cotton, - Container, Shipping and Storage, Coat (Hangar Pack) Hair-Woo

11、l, or Rayon Filling 4 Way Entry Cotton Back Polyester-covered Polyester and Rayon for Pockets 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-O-24IqH 84 m 9979906 03730q8 I STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-

12、147 MIL-STD-1391 PiII L+2 4 1 4H ( Nu ) - Textile Test Methods - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Overcoats, Men, s (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractor

13、s in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer. ) 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The: following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this spec

14、ification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified,the isues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation. MS AND REGLTLATIONS U. S. POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies may be obtained from the Superintendent of Document, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.

15、) - 2.2 0the.r speci f i cE issue o the publications. The following document(s) form a part of this tio the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the documents which are DD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DDISS specified in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specifie

16、d, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS shall be the issue of the nongoverment documents which is current on the date of the solicitation. NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the Ame

17、rican Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404). UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMEIIITTEE, AGW Uniform Freight Classification 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_-_-_- - - MIL-O-2414H 4 W

18、 999770b 0373049 3 MIL-0-2 41 4H ( NU) (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808). mE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Department of Defense Standard Shades for Buttons Department of D

19、efense Standard Shades for Sewing Threac; (Application for copies of color cards should be addressed to the Color Association of the U.S. Inc., 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016). TECHNICAL MANUAL OF THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS . Method No. 8 Colorfastness to Cr

20、ocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method (Application for copies should be addressed to the AATCC National Headquarters, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-9989). in the event of a conflict between the text of this s-the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precede

21、nce. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sam le. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and 2.3 Order of precedence. information d to t e contractor (see 6.3). Varia

22、tions from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample 3.3 Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material sh

23、all be 22 ounce wool melton conforming to type II, class 4 of MIL-C-16290 shade Blue 3346. 3.3.2 Linings. 3.3.2.1 Lining, fleece. The knitted fleece material for lining the body shall conform to type III of MIL-C-17155 and shall be dyed to match Black 3234. 3.3.2.2 Lining, sleeves and yoke. The napp

24、ed-back satin material for lining the sleeves and yoke shall conform to type II of MIL-C-43525, and shall be dyed to match Black 3202. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-3.3.3 lon bindin . The binding for the back edge of facings, bott

25、om raw edge and- be nylon taffeta cloth conforming to type IV of MIL-C-21852. The color shall be black. The nylon shall be cut on a 45 (+5) degree angle in strips of 7/8 to 1 inch width. The ends of the strips shall be joined together by stitch type 301 and the seam type SSa-1 with 10-12 stitches pe

26、r inch. 3.3-4 Pocketina. 3.3.4.1 inside pockets. The material for the inside pocket and the cash pocket shall be polyester, polyester/cotton, or polyester/rayon twill conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The shade shall be natural or black. When a black shade is used, the colorfastness requirements

27、 for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. The material for the front pockets shall be cotton corduroy con ornung to type I, class 1 of CCC-C-441. 3.3.4.2 Fyt.pockets. 3.3.4.2.1 As an alternate, the material for the front pockets shall be a soft filled cotton flannel having a smooth suede finis

28、h on one side, in natural or gray shade and shall conform to the physical requirements shown in Table I when tested as specified in Table III. TABLE I. Physical Requirements Characteristics Minimum Weight (oz./sq. yd.) Yarns per inch: Breaking strength (pounds): Warp Filling Warp Filling 6.0 44 40 6

29、0 35 The use of sulphur dyes and dyes containing elementary sulphur or sulphur compounds capable of oxidation to sulphuric acid is prohibited. The dyed material shall show a minimum of good fastness to wet-dry cleaning and shall show an MTCC Rating for crocking not lower than 3 when tested as specif

30、ied in Table III. 3.3.5 Interlinin . The material for interlining the collar shall be cotton WarPr and-hd-wool filling conforming to type I, class 2 of MIL-(2-297. The color shall be black, grey, or natural. 3.3.6 Wigan. The material for interlining the sleeve bottoms shall be cotton Wigan, natural

31、color, conforming to type I of MIL-(2-16375. * 3.3.7 Coat front. The coat front shall be manufactured in accordance with type XIX of MIL-C-15065. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- _I I_- _- MIL-0-2434H L( m 777790b 0373053 3 m a MIL-

32、0-2414H(NU) 3.3.8 Shoulder and sleeve-head pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type i, class 1 and the sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of 3.3.9 Threads. 3.3.9.1 Cotton or covered polyester thread. The thread for seaming and stitching the overcoat shall be dyed Black AA Cable No. 66043

33、 of DOD Standard Shades for Sewing Threads. Colorfastness requirements shall be in accordance with 3.3.9.3.3, and shall conform to V-T-276 or MIL-T-43548 (2 or 3 ply, except the use of the polyester-covered, polyester core thread is not allowed) when applicable, in the following types and sizes: MIL

34、-P-15064. I s Ticket No./ Use Type 1/ Ply 1/ Ticket No. 2/ 50 70 Tacking armholes and attaching sleeve-head pads IA. or IA2 30/3 30 Buttonholes and bartacks IC2 A or B/3 30 Button sewing: Hand IB3 12 or 16/4 30 Machine IA3 or IB3 20/4 30 Seaming and stitching IC2 0/3 401 looper; 304 stitching IC2 0/

35、3 - 1/ Applies to V-T-276. - 2/ Applies to MIL-T-43548. 3.3.9.2 Basting thread. Thread for basting and tacking may be bleached or unbleached and shall be of a good commercial grade cotton. A monofilament synthetic thread may be used for only those basting operations where the thread is required to b

36、e removed provided the garment is subsequently given a treatment by a cleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. When this thread is used, any residue remaining on the garment after the dry cleaning process shall be brushed or removed. 3.3.9.3 Felling thread. 3.3.9.3.1 Polyester thread

37、. For machine felling and blind felling, polyester thread conforming to type I, size A/3 or AA/2 of V-T-285 or a monofilament nylon thread of comparable type and size shall be used. The color of the polyester thread shall be black. 3.3.9.3.2 Nylon thread. For hand felling, nylon thread conforming to

38、 type IV, size A/2 or C/2 of V-T-295 shall be used. 3.3.9.3.3 Colorfastness. The dyed thread shall show colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning and light equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-T-276, V-T-285, V-T-295, or MIL-T-43548. As a limit of acceptability, or when

39、no standard is available, the dyed thread shall show a minimum of good“ colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning and light when tested as specified in V-T-276, V-T-285, V-T-295, or MIL-T-43548. The color shall be black. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license

40、from IHS-,-,-MIL-0-2414H(NU) The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be thread, cok*imputtonhole conforming to type I or II, size No. 8 of V-T-280. The gimp shall be dyed black. 3.3.9.4.1 Colorfastness. The dyed thread shall show colorfastness to wet-ry cleaning equal to or better than the st

41、andard sample when tested as specified in V-T-280. As a limit of acceptability, or when no standard is available, the dyed thread shall show a minimum of “good“ colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning when tested as specified in V-T-280. a 3.3.10 Tapes. 3.3.10.1Woven ta . The tape shall be cotton, preshru

42、nk, conforming to 7-Y +i type I, class or c ass 2 of DDD-T-86. The widths shall be as follows: 1/2 inch for staying lapels, fronts and bottom edges 5/8 inch for staying bridle at breakline of lapel 1/4 inch for staying back armhole, lower part of front armhole, and fold line of left vent 3.3.10.2 Cr

43、oss-cut tape. The tape for staying the front shoulder, neck gorge, back neckline and upperpart of front armhole shall conform to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The tape shall be cut across the width of the cloth in strips 1/2 (+1/16) inch wide and shall be dyed or undyed. The raw edges of the tape shall-be

44、 treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling when tested as specified in 4.4.1. 3.3.10.3 Tape, fusible. The tape for joining the fronts and facings shall be woven or non-woven with a thermoplastic polyamid resin applied to the tape. The tape shall be natural color and shall be 5/8 inch in wid

45、th (see 4.4.1). 3.3.11 Buttons. 3.3.11.1 Plastic anchor design buttons. The outside buttons shall be class 2 (50 line) of MIL-B-17143. 3.3.11.2 Plastic button. The hidden plastic button for anchoring the left front on the inside of the coat shall be shade Black BT, Cable No. 62001 in accordance with

46、 DD Standard Shade for Buttons, conforming to type II, class D, style 20 and 21, 45-line of V-B-871. As an alternate, the 50 line plastic anchor design button in paragraph 3.3.11.1 may be used. 3.3.12 Hanger loop. The hanger loop shall be cotton tubular braid conforming to type III, class- 1 of MIL-

47、B-371, except that the color shall be black. The dyed braid shall show good fastness to wet-dry cleaning and shall show an AATCC Rating for crocking not lower than 3 when tested as specified in Table III. 3.3.13 Labels. 3.3.13.1 Combination label. Each overcoat shall have a combination personal iden

48、tification and instruction label that conforms to type VI, classes 10 and 15 of DDD-L-20. The printing on the label shall show fastness to dry cleaning. 0 The label shall bear the following inscription: 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,

49、-,-I MIL-0-2414H(N) I NAME: SERVICE NO.: OVERCOAT, MANS, ENLISTED (100% WOOL) CONTRACT NO.: DLA 100-OO-O-0000 (MAMPLE) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (If other than contractor) DRY CLEAN ONLY 33.13.2 Size label. A separate label conforming to type VI, class 2 of NOTE: The length (short, regular, long, or extra-long) may be abbreviated as S, R, L, or XL. 3.3.13.3 Removable size ticket. Each coat shall have