NAVY MIL-S-24923-1985 SHIRT UTILITY WOMAN-S POLYESTER COTTON (CG)《女式涤棉效用衫(海岸巡逻队队员)》.pdf

1、O I c O MIL-S-24723 4 777770b 038455b 7 MIL-S-24923 29 July 1985 SUPERSEDING NCTRF/PD 4-81 1 April 1981 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SHIRT, UTILITY, WOMANS, POLYESTER/COTT (CG) This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is availab

2、le for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a polyester and cotton blend work shirt. 1.2 Classification The shirts shall be in the following types and sizes (see 6.2). 1*2.1 1.2.2 Types 5Pe I - Short Slee

3、ve Type II - Long Sleeve Sizes Collar Sleeve 1 Extra Small (13-13 1/2) gth (Type II -30 Small (14-14 1/2) 30-3 1 Medium (15-15 1/2) 31-32 Large (16-16 1/2) 32-33 X-Large (17) 34 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions , deletions) and any pertinent data which may be o

4、f use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by lett

5、er. FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; dis tribution is unlimited. THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS 7# PAGES E Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-24923 84 W 997990b 0384557 O M MIL-S-24923 2.1 Government document

6、s. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. Unless otherwise specified., the following specifications, standards, and handbooks of the issue listed in that issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) specified in the solicitation form a part of this speci

7、fication to the extent specified. SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL NN-P-71 DDD-L-2 O MILITARY MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17143 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-29140 MIL-T-43548 MIL-P-55010 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 - Pallet Material Handling, Wood, Stringer Construction,

8、2 and 4 Way Entry. - Label: for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use) - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, - Button, Insignia (Anchor, Plastic, Black) - Boxes, Shipping Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Basket Weave, Polyester/Cotton (Crease - Thread, Polyester, Cotton-Cove

9、red and Rayon Covered - Plastic, Sheet, Polyethytlene Terephthalate 4 Way Entry Resistant Finish) - Textile Test Methods - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads (Copies of specification

10、s, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer. 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government do

11、cuments, drawings, and publications form a part O, of this specification to the extent specified herein. 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-24723 84 777770b 0384558 2 I MIL-S-24923 LAWS AND RF,GULATIONS US POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (

12、Copies of manual may be obtained from the Superintendant of Documents, US Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402). 2.2 Other publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. The issues of documents which are indicated as DoD adopted

13、shall be the issue listed in the current DoDISS and supplement thereto , if applicable. TECHNICAL MANUAL OF THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (Application for copies of the AATCC Manual should be addressed to the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, Resear

14、ch Triangle Park, Post Office Box 12215, Durham, NC 27709.) NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, Attn: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20

15、036). UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606). DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARD COLOR CARD OF OFFICIAL STANDARDIZED SHADES

16、FOR SEWING THREAD DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARD SHADES FOR BUTTONS - (Application for copies may be obtained from the Color Association of the United States, Inc. , 24 East 38th Street, New York, Ny 10016). 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely -for guidance and info

17、rmation to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.21.- 3 Provided by I

18、HSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-24923 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, basket weave polyester/cotton conforming to MIL-C-29140. 3362. The color shall match shade Blue *3.3.2 Thread. The thread for seamin

19、g and stitching shall be covered polyester conforming to ticket No. 50, 30 and 70, 2 or 3 ply, of MIL-T-43548. The color of the thread shall be shade Blue AR Cable No. 66058 of Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Thread. 3.3.2.1 Colorfastness of thread. - The dyed thread shall show fast

20、ness to laundering, perspiration, and light equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show good fastness to laundering, perspiration, and light when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548. *3.3.3 Butto

21、ns. The buttons shall be 25 line anchor insignia type conforming to class I of MIL-B-17143. black BT, Cable No.62001,cited in the Department of Defense Standard for Button shades (see 2.2), and shall have a glossy finish. The button shall match DoD Button shade 3.3.4 Label. 3.3.4.1 Combination label

22、. Each shirt shall have a combination identification, instruction and personal label conforming to type VI classes 10 and 15 of DDD-L-20. The label shall show colorfastness to laundering. The inscription shall be as follows: Name : Service No: Shirt, Utility, Womans , Polyester/Cotton Fiber Content:

23、 Polyester (65%) and Cotton (35%) Contract No: DLA1000-00-0000 (EXAMPLE) Name of Contractor: Laundering Instructions: Machine Wash Hot, No Bleach Tumble Dry Medium - Remove Promptly 3.3.4.2 Size label. Each shirt shall have a size label conforming to type VI, Class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall be

24、of sufficient dimensions as to indicate size, sleeve length (when applicable) and stock number. The inscription shall be as follows: M - 31-32 SL (EXAMPLE) (Type II only) M - (EXAMPLE) (Type I only) Stock Number 8410-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE) Abbreviation for the applicable size shall be XS for Extra Sm

25、all; S for Small; M for Medium; L for Large; XL for Extra Large and sleeve length shall be SL. 4 I l I I I 1 i I I I 1 I I Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-24723 84 M 777770b 03845b0 O MIL-S-24923 3.3.5 Interlining fusing. The to

26、pcollar, pocket flaps, and cuffs (Type 11) shall be fused. The fused sample consisting of fusible interlining and basic fabric shall conform to the requirements stated below when tested as specified in 4.4.2.1 and 4.5. The color of the fusible shall be grey or black, 0 Component testing requirements

27、 Appearance of fused sample Initial After 25 launderings - No evidence of bubbling or delamination - No evidence of bubbling, color change or bleed through Stiffness, inch/lbs X loe4 (Average of six samples, three tested fusible side up and three tested fusible side down) Initial Warp Min, 47 Max. 9

28、6 Filling Min. 14 Max. 30 After 25 laundering - Samples shall. retain a minimum of 20% of its original measured stiffness. Peel Strength Initial Min, 22 oz After 25 laundering Min. 16 oz In process Testing Requirements Appearance of fused sample - No evidence of bubbling, col bleed through Peel stre

29、ngth Min. 20 oz. r ch ge or 3.3.5.1 Fusible thickness. The thickness of the fusible interlining shall not measure greater than 0.030 inch when tested as specified in 4.4.2. 3.3.6 Collar stay. The collar stay shall be made from polyethylene terephthalate plastic sheet conforming to MIL-P-55010 except

30、 the thickness shall be 0.010 2 0.001 inch; the color shall be natural (clear or opaque) and the transparency and optical properties shall not apply. The stay shall measure not less than 1/4 inch or more than 3/8 inch wide and 3 (i- 1/16 inches long when tested as specified in 4.4.2. Both ends shall

31、. be-round, pointed, cut on an angle or any combination thereof. When other than round, points shall be rounded. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-24923 3.4 Design. The Type II long sleeved shirt shall be made with a convertible

32、 collar and have a six button front, (extra small shall have a five buttoned front) squared off bottom, and two outside breast patch pockets with buttoned down flaps, with the left flap having a pencil opening. The top collar and the top ply of each pocket flap and cuff shall have a fusible interlin

33、ing fused to it. The squared-off sleeve cuffs shall have two button on each cuff and the sleeve openings shall have a continuous binding (See figure 2). The Type I shirt shall be similar in design and construction features, except that it shall have short sleeves (see figure i). 3.4.1 Figures. Figur

34、es 1 and 2 are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the specification and the figure, the specification shall govern. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). The patterns allow

35、1/2 (+ 1/16) inch seam allowance for all seams, except as otherwise indicated in Table I. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way. 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut fr

36、om the material as specified and in accordance with the following list of pattern parts. Material Pattern Parts Cut Parts Cloth, polyester and cot ton Back 1 Front (left and right) 2 Type 1 2 Type II 2 Collar (top and under) 2 Cuff (Type II, only) 4 Pocket (patch) 2 Pocket flap 4 21 Sleeves Sleeve b

37、inding (Type II only) 2 L/ Fusible Pocket Flap (top ply) interlining 2 Collar (top ply) interlining 1 Cuff (top ply)( Type II only) 2 Templates Template finished pocket - Template finished flap - Template buttonhole marker - Template marker collar stay - - i/ See operation 9e when sleeve binding pat

38、tern is not used and sleeve binding is rolled. - 21 When used delete seam allowance at top edge of flap. Pocket flap may be cut as one piece. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-S-24723 84 9777906 038LI562 LI 3.6 Construction. MIL-

39、S-24923 -I 3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitchings. Stitch, seam and stitching-types, as- specified in Table I shall conform to the requirements of FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods for seams or stitchings are given for the same operation, any one of them may be used. Where stitch type 401 is.

40、used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the shirt. Edgestitching and topstitching shall be 1/16 inch from folded edge except as otherwise specified. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitchings. The bight of the overedge stitching shall

41、be 3/16 to 1/4 inch. 3.6.2 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches shall be as specified in Table I. 306.3 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitchings shall be backtacked not less than 3/8 inch. The ends of a co

42、ntinuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks m

43、ay be repaired by using 301 stitch type, When ends of overedge stitching are not caught in other seams or stitching, the ends shall be tacked. 3.6.4 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be straight style with both ends securely barred. The finished cut length shall be 3/4 (+ 1/16) inch. 3.6.5 Bartacks

44、. Unless otherwise specified all bartacks shall be 1/4 (2 1/16) inch and 1/8 (+ - 1/32) inch wide. 3.7 Manufactacturing operations requirements. The shirts shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements as specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequ

45、ence of operations provided the finished shirts are identical to that produced by following the sequence listed in Table I. 3.7.1 All pressing operations referenced in Table I shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or steam pressing machine, except the fusible pressing which shall be pre

46、ssed as recommended by the fusible manufacturer. 3.7.2 All fusing of the fusible to the basic material shall be on a single ply basis (no stacking allowed). 3.7.3 The statement “press fusible to various cut parts in accordance with directions of the fusible manufacturer“ refers to time, temperature

47、and pres sur e . *3.7.4 Shade and size marking. The component parts shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the shirt. Any method of shade and size marking may be used except: 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license fro

48、m IHS-,-,-I_ - MIL-S-24723 84 = 777770b 03845b3 b W MIL-S-24923 1. Corrosive metal fastening devices 2. Sew-on shade tickets 3. Adhesive type tickets whose adhesive causes discoloration or whose adhesive mass adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets. NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering mac

49、hine, rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the shirt and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance. 3.7.5 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in table I are as follows: Stch in Ndl Bob LPr Mchne Brtck Comrcl smir Btnhl incl dbl Stitch inch Needle Bobbin Looper Machine Bartack Commercial similar Buttonhole including double 8 Provided by IHSNot