NAVY MIL-S-24950-1989 SHIRT MAN-S DRESS WHITE LONG SLEEVE (CG)《男式长袖白色制服衬衫(海岸巡逻队队员)》.pdf

1、MIL-S-2495O(CG) 11 October 1989 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SHIRT, MANS, DRESS WHITE, LONG SLEEVE (CG) This specification is approved for use by the United States Coast Guard, Department of Transportation, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE iI

2、1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a mans white poly/cotton poplin shirt. sizes and sleeve lengths (see 6.2). 2- 1.2 Classification. The shirt shall be of one type only, in the following 1.2.1 Schedule of sizes. The shirts shall be furnished in the following neck sizes: 129 12

3、 1/29 13, 13-1/2, 14, 14-1/29 15, 15-1/29 16, 16-1/2, 17, 17-1/2, 18, 18-1/2 1.2.2 Schedule of sleeve lengths. The shirts shall be furnished in sleeve lengths of 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, and 38. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and han

4、dbooks. The following sDecifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the ektent specified herein Unless otherwise speiif ied, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and sup

5、plement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick,

6、MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC/NA FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release, distribution is unlimited. THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS 27 PAGES. Provided by I

7、HSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_ _s_ -_ MIL-S-24750 84 777770b 0385288 4 SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL V-B-871 NN-P-71 DDD-L-80 PPP-B-676 MILITARY MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-21881 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-43594 MIL-P-55010 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 MILI

8、TARY MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-147 MIL-STD-2073-1 MIL-STD-2073-2 - Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple (Plastic) - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer - Label; for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General - Boxes, Setup Construction 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) Use) - Pallet, Material Han

9、dling, Wood, Post Construction, - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Poplin, Polyester and Cotton - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon- or - Cloth, Interlining, Polyester - Plastic Sheet, Polyethylene Terephthalate 4 Way Entry Polyester-Covered - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings

10、 - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Sampling Procedures and Tables For Inspection by - Palletized Unit Loads - DOD Materials Producers For Development and Applications of Packaging Requirements - Packaging Requirement Codes Attributes (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military spe

11、cifications, standards and handbooks are available from the Naval Publications and Forms Center, (ATTN: NPODS), 5801 Tabor Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19120-5099.) 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications, The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a p

12、art of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. LAWS AND REGULATIONS U.S. Postal Service Manual (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC

13、 20402-0001.) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-24750 84 m 7777706 0385287 b m 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, t

14、he issues of the documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFI

15、C ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404.) UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Appli

16、cations for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808.) THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Department of Defense Standard Shades For Sewing Threads Department of Defense Standard Shades For Buttons (

17、Applications or copies may be obtained from the Color Association of the United States, 343 Lexington Ave. New York, NY 10016-0927.) (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be av

18、ailable in or through libraries or other informational services.) 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document shall take precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and r

19、egulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide Sam le. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information + to t e contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 F

20、irst article. When specified, (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection, in accordance with 4.3. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- - - - - _I_- MIL-S-24750 4 E 779770b 0385270 2 - MIL-S-24950(CG) 3.3 Material

21、. 3.3.1 Basic cloth. The basic material for the shirt shall be a polyester/cotton poplin, 4.1 to 4.6 oz. shade White 3013 conforming to type II, class 2 of MIL-C-21881. 3.3.2 Interlinin . The material for interlining the collar, collarstand and cuffs + s a e polyester fiber cloth conforming to MIL-C

22、-43594. The color shall be white. 3.3.3 Thread. The thread for seaming, stitching, buttonholes, and button sewing shme a cot ton-covered or rayon-covered polyes ter thread, ticket No. 70, 2 ply, conforming to MIL-T-43548. The polyester-core polyester covered * thread is not allowed. The thread shall

23、 be dyed to match White AH, Cable No. 66050 in accordance with the Department of Defense Standard Shades for Threads. 3.3.3.1 Colorfastness of thread. The finished thread shall show colorfastness to laundering, perspiration and light equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specifi

24、ed in MIL-T-43548. As a limit of acceptability or when no standard sample is available, the finished thread shall show a minimum of “good“ colorfastness to laundering, perspiration and light when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548. 3.3.4 Buttons. The buttons used for the fronts and cuffs shall be ty

25、pe II, 19 line, m, style 25 of V-B-871. The buttons shall match Shade White BA, Cable No. 62031, in accordance with the Department of Defense Standard Shades for Buttons. Ii 3.3.5 Collar Sta S. The collar stays shall be made from polyethylene shall be 0.010 + 0.001 inch, the color shall be natural (

26、clear or opaque) and the transparency and optical properties shall not apply. The stay shall measure not less than 1/2 inch or more than 518 inch wide and 2 7/8 to 3 inches in length when tested as specified .in 4.4.1. Both ends shall be round, pointed, cut on an angle or any combination thereof. Wh

27、en other than round, points shall be rounded. terephtha + ate plastic sheet conforming to MIL-P-55010, except the thickness 3.3.6 Labels. 3.3.6.1 Combination label. Each shirt shall have a combination personal/identification/instruction label conforming to type VI, classes 10 and 15 of DDD-L-20. The

28、 marking shall show colorfastness to laundering. The inscription and format shall be as follows: Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-24750 8LJ m 777770b 0385273 4 m NAME : SERVICE NO: NAME OF ITEM: SHIRT, MANS, DRESS WHITE, LONG SLE

29、EVE (CG) FIBER CONTENT: 65% POLYESTER 35% COTTON NAME OF CONTRACTOR: NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (IF OTHER THAN CONTRACTOR) CONTRACT NO: DLA 100-00-0-0000 (EXAMPLE) LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS MACHINE WASH - WARM WATER, - NO BLEACH TUMBLE DRY - MEDIUM HEAT - REMOVE PROMPTLY 3.3.6.2 Size label. Each shirt shal

30、l have a size label conforming to type IV or VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The inscription shall be as follows: 13 - 29 SL (EXAMPLE) STOCK NO. 8405-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE) The abbreviation for sleeve length shall be SL. 3.4 Desi n. The shirt shall be a six button, dress style shirt. It shall The sleeves sh

31、all have continuous bindings on openings and convertible cuffs with two buttonholes in each cuff. (see Figure 1). have CO 3+- ar stay pieces, a collarstand, a left front pocket and long sleeves. 3.4.1 Figure. Figure 1 is furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the

32、 written specification and the figure, the written specification shall govern. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the

33、 working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are allowed on the working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability o

34、r appearance requirements cited in the specification. The standard patterns provide an allowance of 1/4 inch for all seams except for the sleeve facing seam which shall be 3/8 inch. Unless otherwise indicated in Table II, seams shall be in accordance with these seam allowances. 3.5.1 List of pattern

35、 parts. The component parts of the shirt shall be cut from the materials as specified and in accordance with the number of parts required for the manufacturing process as follows: 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_- _I_ - MIL-S-24950

36、 84 U 999970b 0385272 b H Table I - List of pattern parts Material Nomenclature of Pattern Parts Cut Parts cloth, Poplin, Polyester and Cotton Back 1 Front 2 Back yoke 2 Sleeves 2 Collar 2 Collarstand 2 Collar stay piece 2 Pocket 1 Top cuff 2 Under cuff 2 Sleeve facing 2 Interlining cloth Templates

37、Collar interlining Collarstand interlining Cuff interlining Template finished pocket Template buttonhole marker 1 1 2 3.6 Construction. 3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitchings. Stitch, seam and stitching types, as sDecified in Table II shall conform to the requirements of FED-STD-751, Whenever two or m

38、ore methods for seams or stitchings are given for the same operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers ur open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintai

39、ned so that there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the shirt. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitching. Unless otherwise specified, edgestitching and topstitching shall b

40、e 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge. The bight of the overedge stitching shall be 3/16 inch. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitchings. The guides and knives on the safety stitch machine shall be set to trim only the ravelled ends of the fabric. Butto

41、nholes shall be clean cut and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric. 3.6.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 3/8 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except lab

42、el) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks (401 stitch type) may be repaired by using

43、301 stitch type. When ends of overedge stitching are not caught in other seams or stitching, the ends shall be tacked. 7 _-I- r- 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-3.6.3 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per

44、 inch shall be as specified in Table II. 3.6.4 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be straight style with both ends securely barred. The finished cut length shall be 1/2 to 9/16 (+ - 1/16) inch. 3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The shirt shall be manufactured in accordance with operation re

45、quirements specified in Table II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished shirt is identical to that produced by following the sequence as listed in Table II. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. The

46、se modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the specification. 3.7.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the shirt shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method may be used except:

47、 (1) Corrosive metal fastening devices (2) Sew-on shade tickets (3) Adhesive type tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets. NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is allGwed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the garmen

48、t and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance. Table II are as follows: 3.7.2 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Stch in Ndl Bob . Lpr Mchne Brtck Comrcl smlr B tnhl incl dbl Stitch inch Needle Bobbin Looper Machine Bar tack Commercial similar Buttonhole incl

49、uding double 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_ -. - - - - MIL-S-24950 84 W 999790b 0385294 T TABLE II - CONSTRUCTION OF SHIRT No. Operat ion e Thread Stch Seam/ Stch/ Ndl Bob/ Type Stch type in Lpr 1. 2. 3. Cu t t ing a. All components of the basic cloth shall be cut in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which show si