NAVY MIL-S-29629-1990 SKIRT WOMAN-S (WITH WELT POCKETS)《女式衬衫(带贴边口袋)》.pdf

1、MIL-S-27627 A4 9777906 0366793 T MILITARY SPECIFICATION SKIRT, WOMAN s (WIH. WELT POCKETS) This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Departnient of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCO

2、PE ,. 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements in fabrrCs and colors as specified. 1.2 Classification. The skirts shall be of one type on ._-I_. classes and sizes (body types and lengths) (see 6.2,). for womens skirts y in the following 1.2.1 Classes. - Class 1 - Polyester/Wool, Blue 33

3、46 Class 2 - Polyester, White 3006 Class 3 - Polyester/Cotton, White 3053 1.2.2 Sizes. Body type Length .- Juniors - J Petite (Short) - i Misses - No designation Regular - il Woinens - W Tall (Long) - T Beneficial coiiinicnts (reconiniendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may

4、 be of use in improving this docunient should be addressed to: Oficer in Charge, Navy Clothing and iext-ile Research Facility, 21 Stratlimore Road, Nat ick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Staiidardizatioii Document Iinproveinent Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this documen

5、t or i)y Setter. AMSC N/A * FSC 8410 ._I- -I DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release, distribution is -lll_ -_- -1_ unlimited. . Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-S-29629 84 m 9999906 03bb794 L m Schedule of sizes MISS

6、ES Petite (P) Regular (R) Tall (T) 4 4 4 10 10 10 12 12 12 16 16 16 1 20 20 20 6 6 6 8 8 8 14 14 14 18 18 18 s. WOMENS Petite (P) 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Regular (R) 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Tall (T) 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 JUNIORS Petite (P) 10 12 14 16 Regular (R) 10 12 14 16 Tall (T) 10 12 14 16 2. APPLICABLE DO

7、CUMENTS . 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the

8、Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solcitaton (see 6.2). 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29623 AL( m 9797906 0366795 3 W SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL V-F-106 NN-

9、P-7 1 DDD-L-20 MILITARY MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-24910 MIL-C-29127 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-43718 MIL-C-44296 MIL-C-87052 MIL-C-87059 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 MIL-STD-1609 MIL-STD-2073-1 MIL-STD-2073-2 - Fastener, Slide, Interlocking - Pallet, Material

10、 Handling, Wood, Stringer - Label, For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) Use) - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Tropical; Polyester and Wool - Cloth, Twill, Polyester/Cotton (Cre

11、ase-Resistent Finish) - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or Polyester-Covered - Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester and Rayon, for Pockets - Cloth, Fusibles - Cloth, Twill Polyester, White - Cloth, Nylon, Tricot 4 Way Entry - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures

12、 and Tables for Inspection by - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Womens Skirts - DOD Materials Procedures for Development and - Packaging Requirement Codes Attributes Application of Packaging Requirements (Unless otherwise indicated, cop

13、ies of federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Naval Publications and Forms Center, (ATTN: NPODS), 5801 Tabor Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19120-5099.) 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, dra

14、wings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-27b27 4 m 9779706 03bb776 5 m U.S

15、. POSTAL MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402-0001). 2.2 - Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specif

16、ied, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT

17、TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT i National Motor Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking . t I f- 1 i L * MACHINE WASH, PERMANENT PRESS CYCLE, HOT WASH. DO NOT MIX COLORS. - IF NEEDED USE A NON-CHLORINE BLEACH. FILL MACHINE WITH CLOTHES TO 2/3 CAP

18、ACITY. USE HEAVY DUTY SOAP OR DETERGENT. PRESPOT STAINS WITH A LAUNDRY STAIN PRETREATMENT. TUMBLE DRY USING A WARM SETTING OR SHAPE AND HAND DRY. REMOVE AT ONCE FROM DRYER. OR IF TOUCH-UP IRONING IS NEEDED, USE A WARM IRON. FOLLOW NAVEDTRA MANUAL 414-01-45-81 FORMULA II The following instructions ap

19、ply to Class 3 skirts: MACHINE WASH WARM WATER PERMANENT PRESS CYCLE DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH TUMBLE DRY MEDIUM HEAT OR REMOVE PROMPTLY FOLLOW NAVEDTRA MANUAL 414-01-45-81 FORMULA II 3.3.7.2 Size label. Each skirt shall have a separate size -abel conforming The label shall indicate size (body type

20、 and to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. length) and stock number and shall bear the following inscription: SIZE: 14JT (EXAMPLE - 14 Junior Tall) or 14T (EXAMPLE - 14 Misses Tall) STOCK NO: 8410-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE) NOTE: Abbreviations for the applicable lengths shall be P for Petite, R for Regular, a

21、nd T for Tall. Abbreviations for the applicable body types shall be J for Juniors and W for Womens. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-27b27 84 W 9777706 0366800 3 W 3.3.7.3 Removable size ticket. Each skirt shall. have a commerc

22、ial type size ticket attached to the outside of the waistband above the left back dart. The ticket shall be 3 inches long and 1 inch high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The corners of the ticket may be double perforated for ease in tacking. The size (14JT - Example) shall be printed or s

23、tamped on the upper left-hand corner in black or blue ink. The lettering for the size shall be 1/4 inch in height. Abbreviations for body types and lengths shall be allowed in accordance with 3.3.7.2. 3.3.8 Hook and eye fasteners. The hook and eye for waistband shall be of the clinch type conforming

24、 to North and Judd (Hook Flex H-29 and E-40) or equal (see 6.5). The finish of both components shall be nickel plate (see 4.4.1). 3.3.9 Slide fastener. The slide fastener for all classes shall be type I, style 1 or la (continuous chain) or style 3 or 4 (pre-assembled), size LS, short tab pull of V-F

25、-106. The length- of the style 3 or 4 slide fastener shall be 7 inches. All metal components of the slide fastener shall be brass, except for the cover and spring on a semi-automatic pin lock which shall be stainless steel. All component parts shall be from the same contractor (see 4.4.1). The compl

26、ete slide fastener shall not shrink more than 2 percent when tested as specified in V-F-106. The style 1 or la (continuous chain) slide fastener requires the application of a slider and bottom stop during production of the skirts. 3.3.9.1 Color. The color of the slide fastener tape shall approximate

27、 the shade of the basic material. 3.3.9.2 Colorfastness. The dyed slide fastener tape shall show colorfastness to laundering equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-F-106. As a limit of acceptability, or when no standard sample is available, the tape shall show a mi

28、nimum of rrgoodrr colorfastness to laundering and wet-dry cleaning when tested as specified in V-F-106. 3.4 Design. The skirt shall be unhemmed with a one panel front and two panel back, slide fastener closure at center back, two straight welt pockets on front, a hemmed kick pleat, four waist darts,

29、 a one piece non-slip waistband with five belt loops and a hook and eye waistband closure (see Figure 1). The class 2 and 3 skirts are fully lined with a three panel lining. 3.4.1 Figure. The figure is furnishild for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written specifica

30、tion and the figure, the written specification shall govern. e 5 c e 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-S-27b27 BY- 977790b 0366801 5 m 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Go

31、vernment (see 6.3). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during contruction are permitted on the working patterns. Minor modifications are permi

32、tted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability, or dimensional requirements cited in the specification. The shell patterns provide seam allowance of 3/8 inch for waistband and side seams, 5/8 inch to pleat outlet and then 2-1/4

33、 inches for remainder of back seam. The lining patterns provide seam allowances of 5/8 inch for back seam and 3/8 inch for side seams. 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the skirt shall be cut from the materials specified and in accordance with the following pattern parts: Material Pattern

34、Parts Cut Parts Basic material Front Left back Right back Waistband Pocket facing Pocket welt Cloth, nylon, lining Front Backs (classes 2 and 3 only) 1 2 Cloth, pocketing Pocket (front ply) Pocket (back ply) 2 2 Fusible interlining Pocket welt interlining Waistband interlining 2 1 3.6 Construction.

35、3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitchings. Stitches, seams and stitching types as specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methds for seams or stitches are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seam s

36、ewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the skirt. Ends of a

37、ll seams produced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitchings. Unless otherwise specified, topstitching shall be 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the folded edge. The bight of the overedge stitch shall be 3/16 inch, The guide and knife shall be set to trim only the ravelled ends of the fabr

38、ic. Bartacks shall be 1/4 to 3/8 inch in length, and 1/8 (+1/32) - inch in wid th. 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-27627 89 W 7779706 0366802 7 3.6.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitching when not ca

39、ught in other seams or stitchings shall be backtacked not less than 3/8 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be

40、secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks o 401 stitch type shall be repaired by using 301 stitch type. When stitch type 401 is permitted as an option, it shall not be used unless the ends are caught in other seams or stitching. Thread ends of d

41、arts shall be trimmed to a length of 1/2 inch except when automatic dart machines are used. Then the ends shall be back stitched not less than 3 stitches. 3.6.3 .Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I. 3.7 Manufacturing operations requ

42、irements. The skirt shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished skirt is identical to that produced by following the sequence as listed in Table I. Minor modifica

43、tions are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification. 3.7.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the skirt shall be marked or ticketed to insure a unifo

44、rm shade and size throughout the garment. Any method may be used except: (a) Corrosive metal fastening devices (b) Sew-on shade tickets (c) Adhesive type tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is all

45、owed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment and whenever possible, is covered by the seam allowance. 3.7.2 Pressing. Pressing where specified in Table I shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or machine. 3.7.3 Fusing. All fusing of the fusible to the basic mat

46、erial shall be on a single ply basis (no stat-king allowed). 3.7.4 The statement “press fusible to various cut parts in accordance with the fusible manufacturers recommendation“ refers to time, temperature, and pressure. 10 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without

47、 license from IHS-,-,- MIL-S-27b27 l3q m 7777706 O366803 7 W 3.7.5 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table I are as follows: Steh - in - Nd 1 - Bob - LPr Mchne - Brtck - Comrcl - smlr - Btnhl - incl - dbl - chnstch - - Stitch inch Needle Bobbin Looper Machine Bart ack C

48、ommercial similar Buttonhole including double chains t i tch 11 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29629 4 M 977970b 03b6804 O NO. TABLE I - CONSTRUCTION OF SKIRT OPERATION THREAD STCH SEAM/ STCH NDL BOB/ TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR 1. 2

49、. 3. Cutting a. Spread the material without tension, face to face. b. Cut the skirt in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which show directional lines for cutting, sizes, and the necessary marks for proper assembly of component parts. c. Cut all parts of the skirt out of the same piece of material except the belt loops and pocket facing which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from end