NAVY MIL-S-29630-1991 SLACKS WOMEN-S《女式便裤》.pdf

1、INCH-POUND MIL-S-29630(NU) 5 March 1991 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SLACKS, WOMENS This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 2. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. T

2、his specification covers the requirements for womens slacks with body types and lengths. 1.2 Classification. The slacks shall be of one type and class, in the following sizes (body types and lengths)(see 6.2): 1.2.2 Sizes. Body type Juniors - J Length Petite (Short) - P Misses - No designation Women

3、s - W Tall (Long) - T Regular - R Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, P.O. Box 59, Natick, MA 01760-0001 by using the

4、self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC NfA PSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release, distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted wit

5、hout license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29b30 4 = 9999906 0472272 Petite (P) 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Petite (P) 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Petite (P) 10 12 14 16 Schedule of sizes Misses 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Regular (R) Womens 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Regular (R) Juniors 10 Regular (R) 12 14 16 Tall (T) 4. 6 8 10 12 1

6、4 16 18 20 Tall (T) 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Tall (T) 10 12 14 16 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified,

7、 the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL V-B-871 V-T-27 6 V-F-106 V-T-280 NN-P-71 DDD-L-20 - Button, Sewing Hole, a

8、nd Button Staple (Plastic) - Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking - Thread, Cotton - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer - Label; For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) Use) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproductio

9、n or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29630 4 9999906 0472273 T M _ _-_ MILITARY MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-21115 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-43718 MIL-P-15011 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 MIL-STD-656 MIL-STD-2073-1 MIL-STD-2073-2 - Boxes

10、, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool - Thread, Polyester, Core: Cotton, -Rayon, or - Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, Polyester Covered and Rayon, for Pockets 4 Way Entry - Textile Test M

11、ethods - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Slacks, Womens - DOD Materials Procedures for Development and - Packaging Requirement Codes Attributes Applica

12、tion of Packaging Requirements (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specification, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Building 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, a

13、nd publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the-solicitation. U.S. POSTAL MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintend

14、ent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402-0001.) 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issue of documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed .

15、 in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,

16、- MIL-S-29b30 84 = 9999906 0472274 1 MIL-S-29630(NU) NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-14

17、04). UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniforni Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808). THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNXTED STATES Department of Defense Stan

18、dard Shades for Buttons Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads (Application for copies of color cards should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016-0927.) (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally ava

19、ilable from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informatinal services.) 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of th

20、is document takes pecedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from th

21、is specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the slacks s

22、hall be cloth, tropical, polyester and wool, conforming to type III, class 3 of MIL-C-21115. The color shall be shade 3346. The piece number for the standard sample is 40-01369 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-2b30 84 9Ob 04722

23、75 3 W MIL-S-29630(NU) 3.3.2 Pocketing. The material for the pockets shall be a twill cloth, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. As an alternate the basic material specified in 3.3.1 may be used. The color shall be black. 3.3.3 Tape, waistband, non-slip. The woven non-slip tape for the waistband s

24、hal1,be constructed of either polyester or polyester/nylon, natural or white in color, with two rows of chloroprene or nitrile rubber threads, woven or stitched to the tape (see 6.5). The width of the completed tape shall be 7/8 inch and shall not shrink more than 2% for drycleaning when tested as s

25、pecified in 4.4.1. There shall be a minimum distance of 3/16 inch from the rubber thread to edge of tape. 3.3.4 Thread. The thread used for seaming and stitching the slacks shall be polyester core thread conforming to the requirements of MIL-T-43548 except that the polyester covering shall not be us

26、ed. The thread shall be shade Black AA, Cable No: 66043 in accordance with the DOD Standard Shades for Threads and in the following sizes: Operat ion Ti eke t No. Ply Seaming, stitching and tacking Overedging Buttons 50-70 70 50 2 or 3 2 OE 3 2 or 3 3.3.4.1 Thread, cotton. As an alternate to the pol

27、yester core thread, a cotton thread conforming to V-T-276, type I, may be used. The color shall be the same as specified above in the following types and sizes. Operat ion TY Pe Ticket No. Ply Seaming and stitching IA3 30, 50 Tacking, buttonholes IC2 O Overedging IA3 70 But tons IB3 30 3.3.4.2 Color

28、fastness. The dyed thread shall show colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning and light equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-T-276 or MIL-T-43548. As a limit of acceptability or when no standard sample is available, the thread shall show a minimum of “good“ colorfastnes

29、s to wet-dry cleaning and light. 3.3.5 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonhole shall conform to type I or II, size No. 8 of V-T-280. The color of the gimp shall be the same as , indicated for thread in 3.3.4. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without licens

30、e from IHS-,-,-I MIL-S-29630 4 9999906 0472276 5 I MIL-S-29630(NU) 3.3.5.1 Colorfastness. The dyed gimp shall show fastness to wet-dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. As a limit of acceptability or when no standard sample is available the gimp shall show a minimum of irgoodli f

31、astness to wet-dry cleaning as specified in V-T-280. 3.3.6 Button. The button shall be a 24-line, conforming to type II, class D, style 20 and 21 of V-B-871. The color of the button shall be shade Black BT, Cable No. 62001 in accordance with the Standard Shades for Buttons. 3.3.7 Slide fastener. The

32、 slide fastener shall conform*to type I, stlye la (continuous chain) or 3 (pre-assembled), short tab pull, size LS, of V-F-106. The slide fastener shall be a continuous monofilament nylon or polyester coil. The complete slide fastener shall not shrink more than 2 percent when tested as specified in

33、V-F-106 (see 6.4). The component parts of the slide fastener shall approximate the color of the basic material, or the color of the coil may be clear. The style la (continuous chain) requires the application of a slider and bottom stop during production of the slacks. 3.3.7.1 Color. The color of all

34、 slide fastener tape shall approximate the shade of the basic material. 3.3.7.2 Colorfastness. The dyed slide fastener tape shall shall show colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. As a limit of acceptability or when no standard sample is available, the tape sh

35、all show a minimum of “good“ colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning when tested as specified in V-F-106. 3.3.8 Label. 3.3.8.1 Combination Label. Each pair of slacks shall have an identification, instruction and personal label, conforming type VI, classes 10 and 15 of DDD-L-20. The label shall show colorf

36、astness to dry cleaning and the inscription shall be as follows: NAME : SERVICE NO: SLACKS, WOMEN S FIBER CONTENT; Polyester (55%) and Wool (45%)(Example) CONTRACT NO: DLA-100-00-0-0000 (Example) CONTRACTORS NAME: NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (If other than contractor) DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.3.8.2 Removable size

37、 ticket. Each pair of slacks shall have a commercial type size ticket attached to the outside of the waistband, centered above the back waist darts. The ticket shall be approximately 3 inches long and 1 inch high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The corners of the ticket may be double perf

38、orated for ease in tacking. The size (22R-Example) shall be printed or stamped on the upper left hand corner in black or blue ink. The lettering for the size shall be 1/4 inch in height. Abbreviations for lengths shall be allowed in accordance with 3.3.8.3. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduc

39、tion or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29630 4 m 9999906 0472277 7 m 3.3.8.3 Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall indicated size (body type and length) and stock nuniber, and shall bear the following inscription: SIZE: STO

40、CK NO: 8410-00-000-0000 (Example) 14JT (Example- 14 Junior Tall) or 14T (Example - 14 Misses Tall) NOTE: Abbreviations for the applicable lengths shall be P for Petite, R for Regular, and T for Tall. Abbreviations or the applicable body types shall be J for Juniors and W for Womens. 3.4 Design. The

41、slacks shall have front and back waist darts, right hand front waistband pocket, two section waistband with buttonhole tab extension and left side slide fastener closure with placket. The leg shall be flared and unhemmed (see Figure 1). 3.4.1 Figure. Figure 1 is furnished for information purposes on

42、ly. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figure, the written specification shall govern. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). The working patterns shall be identical to the Governme

43、nt patterns. Neither the Government patterns not the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modificat

44、ions shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification. The seam allowance shall be 1/2 inch except as otherwise indicated by Table I, 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the slacks shall be cut from material as specified. Nomencla

45、ture of Ma teria1 pattern parts Cut parts Basic material Front Back Waistband Waistband-back left side Pocket facing Placket 2 2 1 1 1 1 y Twill Cloth 2 2/ Pockets - 1/ When pocket is cut from basic material the facing may be included in the . one piece pocket part. - 2/ Pocket may be cut in one pie

46、ce. Pocket may be cut from basic material. 3.6 Construction. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29630 4 9999906 O472278 9 3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitchings. Stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform t

47、o FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation any one may be used. Seam allowance shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish even

48、ly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the trousers. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitching. Top stitching and edge Stitc

49、hing shall be 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge. The bight of the overedge stitching shall be 3/16 inch. The guide and knife shall be set to trim only the ravelled ends of the fabric. Double needle stitching shall be 1/4 (+ 1/16) inch gauge, with the outer row of stitching 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the finished edge. Buttonholes shall be clean cut and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric. Bartacks shal