NAVY MIL-S-29631-1991 SKIRT WOMAN-S BLUE DRESS《女式蓝色制服衬衫》.pdf

1、MIL-S-29631 84 9999906 0479258 5 = _ MIL-S-29631 3 June 1991 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SKIRT, WOMANS, BLUE, DRESS This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department

2、 of Defense. $ % 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a womans blue dress skirt with expanded size range covering body types and lengths, 1.2 Classification. The skirt shall be of one type and class only and in the following sizes (body types and lengths) (see 6.2). 1.2

3、.1 Sizes. Body type Length Juniors - J Petite (Short) - P Misses - No designation Womens - W Tall (Long) -T Regular - R Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Cl

4、othing and Textile Research Facility, Post Office Box 59, Natick, MA 01760-0001 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distri

5、bution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29631 Petite (P) 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Schedule of sizes MISSES Regular (R) 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Tall (T) 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Petite (P) 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 WOMENS Reg

6、ular (R) 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Tall (T) 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Petite (P) 10 12 14 16 JUNI ORS Regular (R) 10 12 14 16 Tall (T) 10 12 14 16 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a ,part o

7、f this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). 2 Provided by IHSNot f

8、or ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29b31 4 W 99999Ob 04792b0 3 W MIL-S-29631 SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL V-B-871 V-F-106 V-T-276 V-T-280 NN-P-7 1 DDD-L-20 DDD-T-86 MILITARY MIL-C-368 MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-21115 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-43718 MIL-C-44121 M

9、IL-C-44296 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 MIL-STD-1609 MIL-STD-2073-1 MIL-STD-2073-2 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic) - Fastener, Slide, Interlocking - Thread, Cotton - Thread, Gimp, Cottbn, Buttonhole - Pallet, Material Hand

10、ling, Wood Stringer - Label, For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) Use) Bleached or Dyed) - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, - Boxes,

11、Shipping, Fiberboard, (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Tropical, Wool, Polyester/Wool - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or - Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester - Cloth, Twill, Polyester - Cloth, Fusibles 4 Way Entry Polyester-Covered and Rayon, for Pockets - Textile Test Methods - St

12、itches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Womens Skirts - DOD Materials Procedures for Development and - Packaging Requirement Codes Attributes Application of Pack

13、aging Requirements (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Building 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19120-5099.) 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networ

14、king permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-27b31 84 W 777770b 0477261 5 MI L-S-2 96 3 1 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherw

15、ise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. U.S. POSTAL MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402-0001). 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this do

16、cument to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the document

17、s cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Tru king Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404). UNIFORM CL

18、ASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808). THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Department of Defense Standard Shades for

19、Sewing Threads Department of Defense Standard Shades for Buttons (Applications for copies should be addressed to The Color Association of the United States, 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016-0927). (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations

20、that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence.

21、 Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-O 1 I l I I I t I I I I I I I I 1 I I 0 I ! I 1 I I I l I l MIL-S-2963L 84

22、 M 9999906 0479262 7 M MIL-S-29631 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specif

23、ied, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the skirt shall be a polyester/wool blend, 10 ounce, shade Blue 3346, conforming to type III, class 3 of MIL-C-21115. The piece num

24、ber for the Standard Sample is 4001369. 3.3.2 Lining material. The material for lining the skirt shall be a rayon twill, 3.7 ounce, shade Black 3202, conforming to Class 1 of MIL-C-368. The piece number for the Standard Sample is 79221 and applies to shade and finish. As an alternate, the material f

25、or lining the skirt may be polyester, twill, 2.4 oz/yd, shade Black 3202 conforming to MIL-C-44121, piece number 87034. 3.3.3 Pocketing. The material for the front and back plies of the pockets shall be a polyester/cotton blend twill fabric conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The color of the pock

26、eting shall be black. 3.3.4 Fusible interlining. The waistband and pocket welts of the skirt shall be fused with a nonwoven fusible interlining conforming to type V, class 2, style A of MIL-C-44296 except as noted below when tested as specified in 4.4.1. Requirements Appearance of fused samples 1/ 2

27、/ color, or strike through. bond, change of color, or strike through. Initial After 3 dry cleanings - No evidence of-bubbling or delamination of the bond, change of - No evidence of bubbling or delamination of the Bond strength Initially - 22 oz. minimum After 3 dry cleanings - 18 oz. minimum Dimens

28、ional stability 2/ After 3 dry cleanings - 2.5% maximum - 1/ Applies to quality conformance and in-process tests. 2/ The same sample may be used for appearance and dimensional stability evuations. . 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-M

29、IL-S-29631 84 9999906 0479263 9 MIL-S-29631 3.3.5 Tapes. 3.3.5.1 Tape, woven. The tape for the skirt hanger loops shall be cotton, preshrunk, type I, class 3, 3/8 inch wide, conforming to DDD-T-86, except that the only color,fastness requirements applicable shall be to wet-dry cleaning. The tape sha

30、ll be dyed black. 3.3.5.2 Tape, waistband, non-slip. The woven non-slip tape for the waistband shall be constructed of either polyester or polyester/nylon, natural or white in color, with two rows of nitrile or chloroprene rubber threads, woven or stitched to the tape (see 6.4). The width of the com

31、pleted tape shall be 7/8 inch and shall not shrink more than 2% for drycleaning when tested as specified in 4.4.1. There shall be a minimum distance of 3/16 inch from the rubber thread to edge of tape. 3.3.6 Thread. 3.3.6.1 Polyester core. The thread used for seaming, stitching and overedging (when

32、used) the skirt shall be a cotton-covered or rayon-covered polyester core thread conforming to MIL-T-43548. A polyester-covered, polyester core thread is not allowed. The thread shall be dyed shade Black AA, C.A. 66043 in accordance with the Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Thieads i

33、n the following sizes: Us e PlY Ticket No. Machine stitching Overedging Button sewing: Machine 2 ur 3 2 or 3 2 or 3 50, 70 70 24 3.3.6.2 Cotton thread. As an alternate, a cotton thread conforming to V-T-276 may be used. The color shall be dyed shade Black AA, C.A. 66043 in accordance with the Depart

34、ment of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads in the following types and sizes: Us e TY Pe Ply Ticket No. Machine stitching 1A3 Overedging 1A3 Button sewing: Machine 1A3 30 50 20 3.3.6.3 Colorfastness of threads. The dyed threads shall show colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning and light equal to o

35、r better than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-T-276 or MIL-T-43548. As a limit of acceptability, or when no standard sample is available, the dyed threads shall show a minimum of “good“ colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning and light when tested as specified in V-T-276 or MIL-T-43548.

36、6 I I I I .i b Q I 1 I I I I 1 I l Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MPL-S-29b3L 84 9799906 0479264 O . a l I 1 I I I I I I I I I I I I. .i MIL-S-29631 3.3.7 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be a cotton buttonhole gi

37、mp thread conforming to type I or II, size No. 8 of V-T-280, The gimp shall be dyed Black AA, CA 66043 according to the Department of Defense Standard Shade for Sewing Threads. 3.3.7.1 Colorfastness. The dyed gimp shall show colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard samp

38、le when tested as specified in V-T-280. As a limit of acceptability, or when no standard sample is available, the dyed gimp shall show a minimum of rigoodll colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning when tested as specified in V-T-280. 3.3.8 Labels. 3.3.8.1 Combination label. Each skirt shall have a combina

39、tion personal/identification/instruction label conforming to type VI, classes 10 and 15 of DDD-L-20. The printing shall show good colorfastness to dry cleaning and shall bear the following inscription: NAME : SERVICE NO: SKIRT, WOMANS, BLUE, DRESS FIBER CONTENT: 55% Polyester/45% Wool (Example) LINI

40、NG: 100% Rayon Twill (Example) CONTRACT NO.: DLA-100-00-0-0000 (Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (if other than contractor) DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.3.8.2 Size label. Each skirt shall have a separate size label conforming to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall indicate size (body

41、 type and length) and stock number and shall bear the following inscription: SIZE: 12JP (Example - 12 Junior Petite) or 12T (Example - 12 Misses Tall) STOCK NO.: 8410-00-000-000 (Example) NOTE: Abbreviations for the applicable body types shall be “JI1 for Juniors and I1Wt1 for Womens. Abbreviations

42、for the applicable lengths shall be ilPii for Petite, “R“ for Regular, and I1T“ for Tall. 3.3.8.3 Removable size ticket. Each skirt shall have a commercial type size ticket attached to the outside of the waistband above the left back gore seam. The ticket shall be three inches long and one inch high

43、, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The corners of the ticket may be double perforated for ease in tacking. The size (12 JP - Example) shall be printed or stamped on the upper left-hand corner in black or blue ink. The lettering for the size shall be 1/4 inch in height. Abbreviations for bod

44、y types and lengths shall be allowed in accordance with 3.3.8.2. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-2963l1 84 999990b 0479265 2 MIL-S-29631 3.3.9 Button, plastic. The button for the waistband closure shall conform to type II, cla

45、ss D, style 20-21, 24-line of V-B-871. The color shall be Black BT, Cable No. 62001 in accordance with the Department of Defense Standard Shades for Buttons. 3.3.10 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall conform to type I, style la (continuous chain) or 3 (pre-assembled), short tab pull, size LS,

46、7 inches long of V-F-106. The slide fastener shall be continuous monofilament nylon or polyester coil. The complete slide fastener shall not shrink more than 2 percent when tested as specified in V-F-106. The component parts of the slide fastener shall approximate the color of the basic material, or

47、 the color of the coil may be clear. The style la (continuous chain) requires the application of a slider and bottom stop during production of the skirts. 3.3.10.1 Colorfastness. The dyed slide fastener tape shall show colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample whe

48、n tested as specified in V-F-106. As a limit of acceptability, or when no standard sample is available, the tape shall show a minimum of “good“ colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning when tested as specified in V-F-106. 3.4 Design. The skirt shall be unhernmed, six gore, with 2 diagonal welt pockets, one

49、 on each of the front seams, slide fastener and placket closure on left side seam, a non-slip sewn-on waistband buttoned by a tab extension. The skirt is fully lined with a six gore lining. 3.4.1 Figure. The figure is furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and the figure, the written specification shall govern. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working