NAVY MIL-S-87012 D-1992 SLACKS WOMEN-S DRESS (CG)《女式制服便裤(海岸巡逻队队员)》.pdf

1、MIL-S-7012D 4 99997Ob 0511330 b I INCH-POUND 13 March 1992 SUPERCEDING MIL-S-87012C(CG) 2 August 1988 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SLACKS, WOMENS, DRESS (CG) This specification is approved for use by the United States Coast Guard, Department of Transportation and is available for use by all Departments an

2、d Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for polyester and wool womens dress slacks. 1.2 Classification. The slacks shall be of one type and class, in the 1.2.1 Sizes and lengths. following sizes, and lengths (see 6.2): Sizes: 6, 7, 8, 9

3、, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, and 22 Lengths: Short, Regular, and Long 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless o

4、therwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent

5、data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, P.O. Box 59, Natick, MA 01760-0001 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this documen

6、t or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATE“ A. Approved for public release, distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-SPECIFICATIONS FEDEEUiL * A-A-50186 * A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton Construction, 2 Way and

7、4 Way (Partial) Use 1 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven A-A-501 99 - Thread, Polyester Core? Cotton- or V-F-106 - Fastener, Slide, Interlocking NN-P-71 - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer DDD-L-20 - Label; For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Polyester-Covered MILITARY MIL-C-82 3

8、- Cloth Serge; Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and MIL-P-15011 - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, MI L-B-17 7 57 - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) MIL-C-43718 - Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester MIL-C-43920 - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic and

9、Nylon Wool 4 Way Entry and Rayon, for Pockets STANIIARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches? Seams, and Stitchings MILITARY MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 - Palletized Unit Loads At t r ibutes - mrking for Shipment and Storage * MIL-STD-2073-1 - DO

10、D Materials Procedures For Development and * MIL-Sn-2073-2 - Packaging Requirement Codes (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and hanboks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 1911

11、1-5094.) Applications of Packaging Requirements 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and pub lications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and pub1 ications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in

12、the solicitation. U.S. POS MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402-0001.) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-7012D 4 m 9999906 051

13、1332 T 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specifid, the issue of documents which-are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise spec

14、ified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODICS are the issue of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association,

15、 AT“: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404). UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uni f om Freight Classi fication (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808

16、) . (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the

17、 text of this document and the reterences cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Fide sam$e. Samples, when furnished, are solely for gui

18、dance and information to e contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3

19、Material. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the slacks shall be 11.5 oz. polyestermol serge cloth conforming to type III, class 3 of MIL-C-823. The color shall be blue 3362. The piece number shall be 80353. 3.3.2 Pockets and linings. The material for the pockets, waistband lining and riah

20、t hlv interlinina shall be a twill cloth, conformina to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. a The color shall be black 423. d 3.3.3 Waistband. The waistband shall be a commerical band using the material stated in 3.3.2 thru 3.3.6. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without li

21、cense from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87012D 84 9999906 0511333 IJ 3.3.4 Buckram. The material for interlining the waistband shall be bleached omeached cotton buckram conforming to type II or type V of A-A-50106. 3.3.5 Tape, waistband, non-slip. The woven non-slip tape for the waistband lining assembly shall be

22、constructed of either polyester or polyester/nylon, natural or white in color, with two rows of chloroprene or nitrile rubber threads, woven or stitched to the tape. The width of the completed tape shall be 7/8 inch and shall not shrink more than 2% in the length direction when tested as specified i

23、n 4.4.1. There shall be a minimum distance of 3/16 inch from the rubber thread to the edge of the tape. 3.3.6 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be interlining cloth conforming to type I of MIL-C-43920. 3.3.7 Hook and e e. The hook and eye shall be North and Judd (

24、Hook Flex H-49,K-50, H- an E 90); Universal Button Co. (Talon #3, #7 and #8 hook with #8 eye or #85 eye); Patwin, Inc. (Slim-Slak with MB eye and Slik-Slak) or equal (see 6.5). The finish shall be nickel plate. * 3.3.8 Thread. The thread used for seaming and stitching the slacks shall be polyesmore

25、thread conforming to type I of A-A-50199. The color of the thread shall be shade Black AA, cable no. 66043 and in the following sizes: pe ra t i on Ticket No. Ply Seaming, stitching and tacking Overedging 50-70 70 2 or 3 2 or 3 3.3.8.1 Thread, cotton. As an alternate to the polyester covered thread,

26、 a cotton thread contodng to A-A-50199, type I, may be used. The color shall be the same as specified above in the following types and sizes. Operation Ticket No. Ply Seaming and stitching IA3 30, 50 Ove redging IA3 70 Tacking, IC2 O 3 3 2 * 3.3.8.2 Colorfastness. The dyed thread shall show colorfas

27、tness to drycleaning and light equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in A-A-50199. 3.3.9 Plastic coil slide fasteners. The slide fastener shall be type I, style la (continuous chain) or 3 (pre-assembled), size LS of V-F-106. The tape shall be woven from 100% polyester

28、or blends of nylon/cotton, polyester/cotton, or polyester/rayon. The slide fastener chain shall be a continuous monofilament nylon or polyester coil. The slide shall have a short tab pull (see 4.4.1). A closed end stop or a staple stop is required for the style 3, and shall be applied to the style l

29、a. The complete slide fastener shall not shrink more than 2% when tested as specified in V-F-106. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87012D 4 999970b 0511334 3 MIL-S-87012D(CG) 3.3.9.1 Color. The color of the slide fastener tape

30、shall be black. The plastic coimider shall be black. The plastic coil shall be black or colorless. 3.3.9.2 Colorfastness. The dyed slide fastener tape shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. As a limit of acceptability, or when no standard sample is avai

31、lable, the tape shall show a minimum of ligoodll colorfastness to dry cleaning when tested as specified in V-F-106. 3.3.10 Label. 3.3.10.1 Combination label. Each pair of slacks shall have an identification, instruction, and personnel label, conforming type VI, classes 10 and 15 of DDD-L-20. The lab

32、el shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning aqd the inscription shall be as follows: B m: SERVICE NO: SLACKS, WENS, DRESS (CG) FIBER CONTENT; CONTRACT No: DLA-100-00-0-0000 (Example) CONTRACTORS NAME: NAME OF MANFACXJRER: (if other than contractor) Polyester (55%) and Wool (45%) DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.3.1

33、0.2 Size label. The size label for the slacks shall conform to type VI, class 2 and shall bear the following inscription: Size 14R (Example) STOCK No: 8410-00-000-0000 (Example) NCXlE: * 3.4 Design. The slacks shall have one dart on each back, quarter top pockets on each front, two section waistband

34、 with seat seam outlet, and a front fly slide fastener closure. The leg shall be hemmed (see figure 1). 3.4.1 Fi re. The figure is furnished for information purposes only. To The lengths (short, regular, and long) may be abbreviated as S, R or L. the extent 91f o any inconsistencies between the writ

35、ten specification and the figure, the written specification shall govern. * 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnish-e government (see 6.3). The patterns allow 5/16 inch seam allowance for all seams, except as otherwise indicated in Table I. The working patt

36、erns shall be identical to the government patterns. Neither the government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are allowed on working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using aut

37、omatic equipment. These mcdifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-* 3.5.1 cut from material as specified. List of pattern pa

38、rts. The component parts of the slacks shall be Material Nomenclature of pattern parts Cut parts Basic material Will Cloth Front Back waistband Pocket facing Pocket bearer Right fly facing Left flv Left fit lining Pockets Right fly interlining 2 1 3.6 Construction. * 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and Stitc

39、hing. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. Whenever two or More methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoff

40、s, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the slacks. Ends of all seams produced by stitc

41、h type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitchings. The guide and knife shall be set to trim only the ravelled ends of the fabric. The length of the bartacks shall be 3/8 (+1/16) inch in length and shall be 1/8 (+1/32) inch wide unless otherwise specified. Edgestitching shall be 1/16 to 178 inc

42、h from folded edge, and topstitching 1/4 inch from the edge, except as otherwise specified. The bite of the overedge stitching shall be 3/16 inch. 3.6.1.1 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I. * 3.6.1.2 Thread breaks and ends of seam

43、s. The ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backstitched not less than 3/8 inch. Thread breaks shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch, except for seat seam, which shall be resewn. Thread breaks and skipped stitches of

44、301 or 401 stitch type (except seat seam) must be repaired by using 301 stitch type. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread ends of darts shall be trimmed to a length of 1/2 inch. When automatic dart machine is used, the ends shall be back stitc

45、hed with not less than 3 stitches and shall be trimmed. A 1/2 inch chain shall extend from the end of 401 stitching at the outseams and inseams. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87012D 84 I 9999906 0511336 7 * 3.7 Manufacturing

46、 operations requirements. The slacks shall be manufactured in accordance with all operation requirements specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as specified, provided the finished slacks are identical to those produced by following the sequenc

47、e of operations as specified in Table I. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification. 3.7.1 Pressing. 3.7.2 Abbreviations in table of opera

48、tions. Ctch - stitch in - inch Ndl - Needle Bob - Bobbin LPr - Looper Mchne - Machine Brtck - Bartack Comrcl - Commerical smlar - similar Btnhl - Buttonhole incl - including dbl - double All pressing required in Table I shall be done with a The abbeviations used in Table heated pressing iron or mach

49、ine. I are as follows: 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-7012D _ 4 m 999990b 0511337 9 m TABLE I - CONSTRUCTION OF SLACKS Thread No. Operation Stch Seam/ Stch Ndl Bob/ 1. Cutting * a. Cut the slacks in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which shall show size, placement of component parts, directional lines for cutting, and notches for prope