NAVY MIL-S-87054 C-1988 SLACKS WOMEN-S BELTED《女式束带便裤》.pdf

1、MIL-S-8705qC 84 W 7999906 OYLOYO T = c-gCI- io MIL-S-87054C(NU) 29 September 1988 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-87054B(NU) 27 November 1985 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SLACKS, WOMENS, BELTED This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is avai

2、lable for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for polyester/cotton and polyestedwool womens dress slacks. 1.2 Classification. The slacks shall be of one type in the following 1.2.1 Classes. classes, sizes an

3、d lengths (see 6.2). Class 1 - Slacks, Womens,.Belted Polyester/Wool Blue 3346 Class 3 - Slacks, Womens, Belted Polyester/Cotton White 3053 1.2.2 Sizes and lengths. Sizes: Lengths: Short, Regular, and Long 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, and 22 Beneficial comments (recommendations, a

4、dditions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD F

5、orm 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. ASMC NA FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS 3 fl PAGES. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_ -_ -

6、 MIL-S-87054C 4 m 777770b 0430473 3 m 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. Unless otherwise specified, the following specifications, standards, and handbooks of the issue listed in that issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifica

7、tions and Standards (DoDISS) specified in the solicitation form a part of this specification to the extent specified. SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL V-F-106 NN-P-71 CCC-C-438 DDD-L-20 MILITARY MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-24910 MIL-C-29127 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-43718 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD 191 FED-STD-751 M

8、ILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 MIL-STD-656 Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking Pallet, Material Handling, ,Wood, Stringer Cloth, Buckram, Woven, and Nonwoven Label; for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) Use) Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post

9、 Construction, Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) Cloth Tropical: Polyester and Wool Cloth, Twill, Polyester/Cotton (Crease Resistant Thread , Polyester; Cot ton-; Rayon ; and Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton, Polyester 4 Way Entry Finish) Polyester-Covered and Rayon, for Pockets Text

10、ile Test Methods Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings Sampling Procedures and Table for Inspection by Marking for Shipment and Storage Palletized Unit Loads Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Slacks Womens Attributes (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contracto

11、rs in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer e ) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87059C 89 a 7777906 0910472 3 * 2.1.2 Other Gove

12、rnment documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of solicitation. LAWS AND REGULATIONS U.SI

13、POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.) 2.2 Other publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. The issues of documents which are indicated

14、as DoD adopted shall be the issue listed in the current DoDISS and supplement thereto, if applicable. Unless otherwise specified, the issue of documents not listed in the DODISS shall be the issue of the nongovernment documents which is current on the date of the solicitation. NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT

15、 TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION , INC . , AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404). UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classificati

16、on (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808). THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Thread Department of Defense Standard Shades for Bu

17、ttons (Application for copies may be obtained from the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016). TECHNICAL MANUAL OF THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS Test Method - 135-1978 - Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of

18、Woven and Knit Fabrics (Application for copies should be addressed to the AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215). 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87054C(NU) 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a con

19、flict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification however shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific excemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample.

20、Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article in

21、spection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 Basic material. The material for the slacks shall conform to 3.3.1.1 and 3.3.1.2. 3.3.1.1 Class 1 slacks. The material for the class 1 blue slacks shall be polyester/wool tropical blend cloth, shade Blue 3346, conforming to MIL-C-24910. 3.

22、3.1.2 Class 3 slacks. The material for the class 3 slacks shall be a polyester and cotton twill cloth conforming to class 2 of MIL-C-29127. The color shall be shade White 3053. 3.3.2 Pocketing and waistband lining. The material to be used for the front and back plies of the pocketing and for waistba

23、nd lining, shall be a twill cloth material conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The color for the class 1 blue slacks shall be dark grey or black, and white for the class 3 white slacks. 3.3.3 Fusible interlining. The pocket welts shall be fused with a woven or nonwoven thermal bonded consisting of

24、 85-100% polyester with the remaining fiber being nylon. The material shall be free of chemical binders. The fusible adhesive system shall be a polyester paste dot uniformly distributed over one side of the material. The color shall approximate the shade of bage fabric, The total weight of the nonwo

25、ven fusible shall be 1.1 + .2 oz/yd . The fused sample, consisting of fusible interlining and base fabric, shall conform to the requirements stated below when tested as specified in Table III. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-8

26、7054C 84 7977906 OLiLOLl74 7 Component Testing Requirements Appearance of fused samples 1/ Initial 2/ - No evidence f bubbling or delamination of the bond, change of color, oc strike through. After 5 dry cleanings 2/ - No evidence of bubbling or delamination of the bond, change of color, r strike th

27、rough. Bond strength - 31 22 oz min. - initially 18 oz - after 5 launderings 18 oz - after 5 dry cleanings Shrinkage After 3 launderings - 2.5 % max. After 3 dry cleanings - 2.5 % max - 1/ Applies to quality conformance and in-process tests. - 2/ After evaluation for initial appearance and shrinkage

28、, samples may be used for the remainder of appearance tests. - 3/ When a nonwoven fusible is used, the item will be accepted if the fusible either splits from itself rather than separates from the outershell material or if it begins to separate from the outershell material higher than the minimal bo

29、nd strength and then splits from itself. 3.3.3.1 Colorfastness. All dyed, finished, fusible interlining materials shall show fastness to laundering (3 cycles) and dry cleaning (3 cycles), equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available the finished, dyed fusibles sh

30、all show a minimum of “fair“ fastness after 3 launderings and 3 dry cleanings (see Table III). 3.3.4 Buckram, The material for interlining the waistband shall be bleached or unbleached cotton buckram conforming to type II, class 1 of CCC-C-438. As an alternate, a nonwoven conforming to type IV, clas

31、s 1 of CCC-C-438 may be used. 3.3.5 Tape, waistband, non-slip. The woven non-slip tape for the waistband lining assembly shall be constructed of either polyester or polyester/nylon, natural or white in color, with two rows of chloroprene or nitrile rubber threads, woven or stitched to the tape. The

32、width of the completed tape shall be 7/8 inch and shall not shrink more than 2% in the length direction when subjected to the manufacturers standard procedures for determining dimensional stability to laundering and dry cleaning as apropriate for the end item. There shall be a minimum distance of 3/

33、16 inch from the rubber thread to edge of tape (see 4.4.1 and 6.5). Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87054C(NU) 3.3.6 Hook and eye. The hook and eye shall be North and Judd (hook Flex i-49 and E-SO); Universal Fastener, Inc. (#8

34、hook with #8 eye or #85 eye); Akim Co. (Slim-Slak with MB eye and Slik-Slak) or equal, (See 4.4.1 and 6.6). The finish shall be nickel plate. 33.7 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching the slacks shall be polyester/covered conforming to MIL-T-43548? ticket No. 70, 2 or 3 ply. The color of the

35、 thread for the class 1 blue slacks shall be shade Black AA, C.A. 66043, shade White AH, C.A. 66050 for the class 3 white slacks and should be in accordance with the DoD Standard Shades for Threads. 3.3.7.1 Colorfastness of thread. The dyed threads shall show colorfastness , to light, laundering and

36、 wet-dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548. As a minimum level of acceptability, or when no standard sample is available, the dyed threads shall . show a minimum of good“ colorfastness to light, laundering and wet dry cleaning when tested as

37、 specified in MIL-T-43548. 3.3.8 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall conform to Type I, style la (continuous chain) or 3 (pre-assembled), short tab pull, size LS of V-F-106. The slide fastener chain shall be a continuous monofilament nylon or polyester coil. The complete slide fastener shall no

38、t shrink more than 2 percent when tested as specified in V-F-106. The component parts of the slide fastener shall approximate the color of the basic material, or the color of the coil may be clear. The style la (continuous chain) requires the application of a slider and bottom stop during production

39、 of the slacks. The length of the style 3 slide fasteners from the top stop to the bottom edge of the bottom stop shall be as.follows: Long Size Short Regular - 6-10 6-1/2 7 7-1/2 16-22 7-1/2 8 8-1/2 11-15 7 7-1/2 8 3.3.8.1 Color. The color of the slide fastener tape shall be black for the class 1 b

40、lue slacks? and white for the class 3 white.slacks. 3.3.8.2 Colorfastness. The slide fastener tape shall show fastness to laundering and wet-dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-F-106. As a minimum level of acceptability, or when no standard sample i

41、s available, the tape shall show a minimum of “good“ colorfastness to laundering and wet-dry cleaning when tested as specified in V-F-106 3.3.9 Labels. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-S-87054C 84 m 7777906 OLflOq76 O m MIL-S-87

42、054C(NU) 3.3.9.1 Combination label. Each pair of slacks shall have a combination personal, identification, size and instruction label conforming to type VI, classes 10 and 15 of DDD-L-LO. The label shall show colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning and laundering. The inscription and format shall be as fo

43、llows: NAME: SERVICE NO: SLACKS, WOMENS, BELTED CLASS 1 (EXAMPLE) FIBER CONTENT: CONTRACT NO: DLA-100-00-0-0000 (EXAMPLE) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: 75% POLYESTER/25% WOOL (EXAMPLE) s NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (if other than contractor) Applicable to class 1 slacks only: Washing Instructions Machine Wash Perma

44、nent Press Cycle - Warm Water (120F. max) Do Not Bleach - Tumble Dry - Medium Heat - Remove Immediately May also be Dry Cleaned or Follow NAVEDTRA Manual 414-01-45-81, Formula III Applicable to class 3 slacks only: Washing Instructions Machine Wash- Normal Cycle - Warm Water Do Not Bleach - Tumble D

45、ry Medium Heat - Remove Promptly OR Follow NAVEDTRA Manual 414-01-45-81, Formula II. 3.3.9.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to type IV, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The inscription and format shall be as follows: SIZE: 12R (EXAMPLE) STOCK NUMBER: 8410-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE) NOTE: Abbreviations for

46、applicable lengths shall be as follows: S - Short R - Regular L - Long Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-3.3.9.3. Removable size ticket. Each slack shall have a commercial type a size ticket attached to the outside of the waistband abov

47、e the left back dart. The ticket shall be approximately 3 inches long and 1 inch high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The corners of the ticket may be double perforated for ease in tacking. The size (12R - Example) shall be printed or stamped on the upper left hand corner in black or blue

48、 ink. The lettering for the size shall be 1/4 inch in height. Abbreviation for lengths shall be allowed in accordance with 3.3.9.2. 3.4 Design. The slacks shall have front and back waist darts, two front welt pockets, waistband with hook and eye closure and ,a fly front slide fastener closure. 3.4.1

49、 Figure. The figure is furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figure, the written specification shall govern. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working pat