NAVY MIL-S-87063 B-1987 SLACKS UTILITY WOMEN-S DENIM《粗斜纹棉布女士用家常裤》.pdf

1、Y MIL-S-870b3B 8LJ m 77949Ob OLJLOb92 b - c-g+w MIL-S-8 7063B( NU) SUPERSEDING MIL-S-87063A 11 June 1984 22 September 1987 MILITARY SPECIFICATION. SLACKS, UTILITY, WOMENS, DENIM This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is

2、available for use by all R Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE Y 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for utility slacks made from a denim material. 1.2 Classification. The slacks shall be in the following types, sizes, and lengths (see 6.2). 1.2.1 Types.

3、 Type i - Cotton/Polyester Type II - Cotton, Flame- Resistant 1.2.2 Sizes, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 29, and 22. 1.2.3 Lengths. Short, Regular Long and X-Long. 2 APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. * 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The- following specifications, standards,

4、 and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation.

5、 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardiza

6、tion Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved or public release; distribution is unlimited. #+ THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage, (Ceneral Construction, 2 Way and 4 Wa

7、y (Partial) Use) - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood Post Construction, - Box, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Denim, Cotton (Flame Retardant Treated) - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon- or 4-Way Entry Polyester-Covered - Cloth, Denim, Cotton and Polyester STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD

8、-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings MILITARY MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes MIL-STD-129 - Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-147 - Palletized Unit Loads MIL-STD-656 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Slacks, Woman s (Copies of specifications, s

9、tandards, drawings, and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer) . * 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government do

10、cuments, drawings, and publications form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation. LAWS AND REGULATIONS US POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superint

11、endent of Documents, US Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402). 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- NIL-S-870b3B 4 W 9799706 OYLOb94 T W * 2.2 Other publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification t

12、o the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS specified in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS shall be the issue of the nongover

13、nment documents which is current on the date of the solici tation. NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT Nat ional Mot or Freight C1 assif icat ion * (Applications for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Wa

14、shington, DC * 20036) UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606). THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Standard Shade

15、s For Buttons - 1966 Standard Shades For Threads - 1968 (Applications for copies shall be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, 343 Lexington Ave., New York, N.Y. 10016). * 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the reference

16、s cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3 REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and informati

17、on to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 B

18、asic material. 3.3.1.1 Type I. The basic material for the Type I slacks shall be a cotton/polyester blended denim, conf onning to MIL-C-87064; The material shall be dyed shade Blue 3371. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-e 3.3.1.2 Typ

19、e II. The basic material for the Type II slacks shall be a flame resistant treated cotton denim, conforming to MIL-C-24915; The material shall be dyed shade Blue 3371. 3.3.2 Thread. * 3.3.2.1 Thread, polyester, core. The thread for all slacks shall be a polyester core thread, two or three ply, ticke

20、t No. 50 or 70 of MIL-T-43548, except that the polyester covering shall not be used. The thread shall be dyed shade Blue AT, Cable No. 66060, in accordance with the Standard Shades For Threads. 3.3.2.2 Colorfastness. The dyed thread of 3,3.2.1 shall show fastness to light and laundering equal to or

21、better than the standard sample when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread in 3.3.2.1 shall show a minimum of “good“ fastness to light and laundering when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548. w I 3.3.3 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes

22、shall be cotton, conforming to Type I or 11; Size No. 8 of V-T-280. The gimp shall be dyed Blue AT, Cable No. 66060, in accordance with the Standard Shades For Threads. 3.3.3.1 Colorfastness. The dyed gimp shall show fastness to laundering equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as s

23、pecified in V-T-280. When no standard sample is available, the dyed gimp shall show a minimum of “good“ fastness to laundering when tested as specified in V-T-280. * 3.3.4 Slide fastener. The slide fastener for closing the fly shall conform to Type I, Style I, cam lock or semi automatic pin lock, si

24、ze LMS, short tab pull of V-F-106. Ail metal components of the slide fastener shall be fabricated of brass except for the semi automatic pin lock cover and spring, which shall be stainless steel. All components shall be from the same supplier. The slide fastener shall be furnished with a staple bott

25、om stop (see 4.4. i). 3.3.4.1 Tape for slide fastener. 3.3.4.1.1 Type I slacks. The tape for the Type I slacks slide fastener shall be cotton or synthetic or a combination. The tape shall approximate the shade of the basic material and shall show good fastness to laundering as specified in V-F-106.

26、3.3.4.1.2 Type II slacks. The tape for the Type II slacks slide fastener shall be high temperature resistant aramid. The color of the tape shall be black, and shall meet commercially acceptable colorfastness requirements for aramid tapes. 3.3.5 Buttons, plastic. The buttons for the waistband and lef

27、t hip pocket closure shall conform to Type II, Class D, Style 4, 22-line of V-B-871. The color shall be Black BT, Cable No. 62001, in accordance with the Standard Shades For Buttons. 3,3.6 Labels. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-* 3

28、.3.6.1 Combination label. Each pair of slacks shall have a combination identification, personal and instruction label conforming to Type VI, Classes 10 and 15 of DDD-L-20. The printing shall show fastness to laundering and shall bear the following inscription and format: 0 Type I slacks label. NAME

29、: SERVICE NO: FIBER CONTENT: 65% Cotton/35% Polyester CONTRACT NO : DLA 100-00-0-0000 (Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: SLACKS, UTILITY, WOMENS DENIM - TYPE I . LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS FILL WASHER AND DRYER TO 2/3 CAPACITY GARMENTS MUST ALWAYS BE TURNED INSIDE OUT Machine Wash, Hot Water, NO STARCH, NO

30、BLEACH Tumble Dry, Medium Heat Remove Promptly or Follow NAVEDTRA 414-01-45-81, Formula 11 FILL WASHER AND DRYER TO 2/3 CAPACITY GARMENTS MUST ALWAYS BE TURNED INSIDE OUT Type II slacks label. NAME : SERVICE NO: SLACKS, UTILITY, WOMENS, DENIM - TYPE II FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton (Flame retardant tre

31、ated) CONTRACT NO. DLA-100-00-0-0000 (Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS FILL WASHER AND DRYER TO 213 CAPACITY GARMENTS MUST ALWAYS BE TURNED INSIDE OUT Machine Wash, Hot Water, NO STARCH, NO BLEACH Tumble Dry, Medium Heat Remove Promptly or Follow NAVEDTRA 414-01-45-81, Formula II

32、 FILL WASHER AND DRYER TO 2/3 CAPACITY GARMENTS MUST ALWAYS BE TURNED INSIDE OUT The printed labels should use uppercase letters, bold print and underlining 0 as indicated above. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87063B( NU) NOT

33、E: The lengths (Short, Reguiar, Long and X-Long) may be abbreviated as S, R, L or XL * 3.3.6.2 Size label. The size labe1 or the slacks shall conform to Type IV or VI, Class 2 of DDD-L-20 and shall bear the following inscription: Size 22R (Example) STOCK NO: 8410-00-000-0000 (Example) * 3.3.6.3 Remo

34、vable size ticket. Each pair of slacks shall have a commercial type size ticket attached to the outside of the waistband above the left back pocket. The ticket shall be approximately 3 inches long and 1 inch high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The corners of the ticket may be double perf

35、orated for ease in tacking. The size (22R - Example) shall be printed or stamped on the upper left hand corner in black or blue ink. The lettering for the size shall be 1/4 inch in height. Abbreviations for lengths shall be allowed in accordance with 3.3.6.1. * 3.4 Design. The slacks shall be of dou

36、ble needle construction, fabricated from denim fabric. The Type I slacks shall be made of a cotton/polyester denim fabric and the Type II slacks shall be made of a cotton flame retardant treated denim fabric. The slacks shall feature two front patch pockets, two back patch pockets, two back waist da

37、rts, button/buttonhole waistband, slide fastener fly closure, and separate one-piece waistband with belt loops. The leg style shall be bell bottom and unhemmed (see Figure 1). 3.4.1 Figure. The figure is furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written specific

38、ation and the figure, the written specification shall govern. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns for both types of slacks will be furnished by the Government to the contractor for use in cutting the working patterns (see 6.3). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither

39、the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way. The patterns allow a 1/2 inch seam allowance for all seams, except as otherwise indicated in Table I. 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of both types of slacks shall be cut from material as specified and in accordan

40、ce with the pattern parts required for the manufacturing process as follows: c Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87063B 4 7777706 0430678 7 m Material Nomencature of patcern parts Cut parts Basic material 3acks 2 Fronts 2 a Waistb

41、and 1 II Fly lining (let) i Front patch pockets 2 Back patch pockets 2 3?1 Y 2 - 21 Template - Pockets Fronts Back NOTE: Pattern is not furnished for belt ioops (see operation 6). - - 11 - 2/ Waistband may be banded see operation 12). Slide fastener location is for right fly-only. 3.6 Construction.

42、* 3,6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-75I. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are g-iven for the same operation any one may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw

43、 edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. Ail seams shail start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the iooper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the slacks. Ends of ali seams pro

44、duced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitchings. The width of the safety stitch shall be 3/8 inch and the guides and knives on the safety stitch machine shall be se to trim only the ravelled ends of the fabric. Unless otherwise specified, topstitching and edgestitching shall be

45、 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge and all double needle stitching shall be i/4 inch gauge with the row of stitching next to the folded edge not more than 1/16 inch from the edge. The use of a trimming knife in the overedging of the left fly in operations 8f and 8g is prohibited. O 3.6.2 Stitches per i

46、nch; The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I. * 3.6.3 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitchings shall be backtacked not less than i/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching sha

47、ll be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks (401 stitch type) may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. The ends of type 401 stitching not caught in other seams or stit

48、ching shall have a 112 to 3/4 inch chain extending from it. 3,7 Manufacturing operations requirements, The slacks shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed provided that the f

49、inished slacks are identical to that produced by o 7 I Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-following the sequence of.operations listed in Table I. 3.7.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the slacks shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method may be used except: (i) Corrosive metal fastening devices. (2) Sew-on shade