NAVY MIL-T-2423 L-1988 TROUSERS MEN-S (WHITE)《男式裤子(白色)》.pdf

1、MIL-T-2423L 84 H 7777906 0373304 7 - 6- 84- o Ei MIL-T-2423L(NU) 30 September 1988 . SUPERSEDING MIL-T-2423K 17 September 1984 MILITARY SPECIFICATION TROUSERS, MENS (WHITE) This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is avail

2、able for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 scope. This specification covers the requirements for white polyester/cotton trousers. 1.2 Classification. The trousers shall be of one type only in the following sizes and lengths (see 6.2): Sizes : 26, 27, 28,

3、29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48 and 50 Short, Regular, Long and Extra Long Lengths: 2. APPLICABLE D“TS 2.1 Government documents. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addr

4、essed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. , AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT

5、A. -Approved for public release, distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- . MIL-T-2423L 84 7777706 0373305 7 MXL-T-2423L(NU) 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards an

6、d handbooks korm a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless othewise specified, the issue of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation. SPEC

7、IFICATIONS FEDERAL V-B-8 7 1 V-F-106 V-T-276 V-T-280 *NN-P-71 CCC-C-438 DDD-L-20 MILITARY MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-29127 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-43718 MIL-C-43920 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic) - Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking - Thread, Cotton - Thread, Cotton, Gimp, Buttonhole -

8、 Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) - Cloth, Buckram, Cotton - Label; FOT Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use) - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Twill, Polyester/Cotton (

9、Crease-Resistant - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or - Cloth, Twill, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton, - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic, and Nylon 4 Way Entry Finish) Polyester-Covered Polyester and Rayon for Pockets STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings M

10、I LI TARY MIL-STD-1 O5 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 - Palletized Unit Loads MIL-STD-1488 Attributes - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications requir

11、ed by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-* -r 2.1.2 Other Government documents, dr

12、awings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation. US POSTAL SERVICE MANAL (Copies of the man

13、ual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, US Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402-0001). 2.2 Other publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are D

14、OD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the WDISS specified in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the WDISS shall be the issue of the nongovernment documents which is current on the date of the solicitation. NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASS

15、OCIATION INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to American Trucking Association, Inc., ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, NW, Washington, UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT DC 20036-1404). Uniform Freight Classification (Application

16、for copies should be addressed to Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, 11 60606-5808). THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Department of Defense Standard Shades for Buttons Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads (Application for co

17、pies of color cards should be addressed to the Color Association of the U.S. Inc., 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016). 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take preceden

18、ce. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Guide samples, when furnish

19、ed, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval

20、 (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3 Materials. 3.3.1 Basic cloth. The basic cloth shall be a polyester/cotton crease-resistant tinish twill, shade White 3053, conforming to class 2 of 3.3.2 linin The material for the waistband lining and right fly lining shall bedcloth conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The

21、material for the left fly interlining may be the same as above or as an alternate the material stated in 3.3.1. The material for interlining the waistband lining shall be bleached or unbi eached cotton buckram conforming to type II, class 1 of CCC-C-438. As an alternate, the material for interlining

22、 the waistband may be a non-woven material conforming to type IV, class 1 of CCC-C-438. 3.3.4 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be interlining cloth conforming to MIL-C-43920. 3.3.5 Pocketin The material for the pockets shall be made of twill cloth MIL-C-29127. Th

23、e materials shall be bleached white. 3.3.3 Buckram. conforming _cp_ to c ass 1 of MIL-C-43718. The materials shall be bleached white. 3.3.6 Thread. 3.3.6.1 Thread, polyester, covered. The thread used for stitching and seaming shall be a cotton or rayon covered, polyester core, matching shade White A

24、H, Cable No. 66050 in accordance with DOD Standard Shades for Sewing Thread, and shall conform to MIL-T-43548 as follows execept that the polyester core, polyester covered thread is not allowed: use Ticket No. Ply Seaming and tacking 50, 70 Ove redging 70 Button sewing 50 2 or 3 2 or 3 2 or 3 3.3.6.

25、2 Thread, cotton. As an alternate, a cotton thread may be used. When this option is exercised, the thread shall match shade White, Cable No. 66050 in accordance with DOD Standard Shade for Sewing Threads, and shall conform to V-T-276 as follows: 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or netw

26、orking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-f MIL-T-ZLl23L 84 9999906 0373308 4 W _ = MIL-T-2423L( NU) Use Ticket No. Ply Seaming IA2 40, 50 2 or 3 Overedging IA2 70 2 a Bartacking ICI A, B Button sewing IB2 20 3 4 * 3.3.6.3 Automatic pocket machine. When an automatic pocket machine using a 101 st

27、itch type is used, the thread shall be type IC2, Ticket No. A, 3 ply conforming to V-T-276. When an automatic pocket machine using a 301 stitch type is used, the thread shall be Ticket No. 50, 2 or 3 ply conforming to MIL-T-43548. The color shall be as stated in 3.3.6.1 or 3.3.6.2. * 3.3.6.4 Colorfa

28、stness. The dyed thread shall show colorfastness to laundering and light equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-T-276, or MIL-C-43548. As a limit of acceptability, or when no standard is available, the dyed thread shall show a minim of lgoodll colorfastness to laun

29、dering and light when tested as specified in V-T-276 or MIL-C-43548. The gimp for reinforcing the hip pocket buttonhole shall be white AH, Cable No. 66050 in accordance with DD Standard Shade for Sewing Threads, conforming to type I or II, No. 8 of V-“-280. 3.3.7.1 Colorfastness. The gimp shall show

30、 colorfastness to laundering equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-T-280. As a limit of acceptability, or when no standard is available, the gimp shall show a minimum of “good“ colorfastness to laundering when tested as specified in V-T-280. a 3.3.8 Button. The bu

31、tton for the left hip pocket shall be plastic type II, class D, -4, 22-line conforming to V-B-871. The button shall be shade White BA, Cable No. 62031 in accordance with DOD Standard Shade for Buttons. * 3.3.9 Slide fastener. The slide fastener for closing the fly shall conform to type I, style 1, c

32、am lock, size LS, short-tab pull of V-F-106, except that all metal components of the slide fastener shall be fabricated of brass and purchased from the same supplier (see 4.4.1). A staple bottom stop is required. 3.3.9.1 Slide fastener tape. The tape for the slide fastener shall be cotton or synthet

33、ic or a combination. The tape shall show good fastness to laundering as specified in V-F-106. The tape shall approximate the shade of the basic material. 3.3.10 Hook and e e The hook and eye for the trouser waistband shall be nickle p- North and Judd (Hook Flex H49, and ESO); Un.iversa1 Fastener Inc

34、. (#8 hook with #8 or #85 eye); Akim Co. (Junior Series - type JB, Slim-Slak with rn eye and Slik-Slak) or functionally interchangeable equivalent (see 4.4.1 and 6.4). 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-I_ NIL-T-2423L 84 W 9999906 0373

35、309 6 $ MIL-T-2423L( NU) 3.3.11 Labels. 3.3.11.1 Combination Label. a Each pair of trousers shall have a combination personal, identification and Instruction label conforming to types III, IV, or VI, classes 10 and 15 of DDD-L-20. The inscription shall show fastness to laundering. The label or marki

36、ng shall be centered on the right hip pocketing so that on the finished trousers it will face the wearer. The inscription shall be as follows: NAME: SERVICE NO.: TROUSERS, MENS (WHITE) FIBER CONTENT: Poiyester(5O%)/Cotton(50%) NAME OF CONTRACTOR NAME OF MANUFACTURER (If other than contractor) CONTRA

37、CT NO: DIA 100-00-O-0000 (Example) LAUNDERING INSTRUCTION Machine Wash - Hot Water Do NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH Tumble Dry - Medium Heat, Remove Promptly or USE NAVEDTR 414-01-45-81 - Formula II a 3.3.11.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The inscription and fo

38、rmat shall be as follows: SIZE: 34R (EXAMPLE) STOCK NUMBER: 8405-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE) NOTE: Abbreviations for applicable lengths shall be as follows: S - Short R - Regular L - Long XL - Extra Long * 3.3.11.3 Removable size ticket. Each trouser shall have a comercial type size ticket attached to the

39、 outside of the waistband above the left back pocket. The ticket shall be approximately 3 inches long and 1 inch high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The corners of the ticket may be double perforated for ease in tacking. The size (34R - Example) shall be printed or stamped on the upper l

40、eft hand corner in black or blue ink. The lettering for the size shall be 1/4 inch in height. Abbreviations for lengths shall be allowed in accordance with 3.3.11.2. The trousers shall be of single needle construction, with two hook and eye waistband, slide fastener fly closure, and bell bottoms. Le

41、g bottoms shall be unhemmed (see Figure 1). straight 3*4 T si e front pockets, two double welt hip pockets, seven belt loops, 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-3.4.1 Figyres. The figures are furnished for information purposes only. Wh

42、en inconsistencies exist between the specification and the figures, the specification shall govern. * 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Gove

43、rnment patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. The patterns allow 3/8 inch seam allowance for all seams except 1/2 inch seam allowance for seat seam, inseams and outseams, and 7/8

44、 inch outlets at top of seat seam, except as otherwise indicated in Table I. 3.5-1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the trousers shall be cut from materials as specified and in accordance with the pattern parts required for the manufacturing process as follows : NOMENCLATURE OF mTExIAL

45、PA“ PARTS Basic Material Front Back Waistband Right fly Left fly facing Side pocket facing Side pocket bearer Hip pocket facing Hip pocket bearer Will cloth Side pocket Hip pocket Right fly lining Left fly interlining - i/ Waistband lining CUT PARTS 2 2 2 1 1 2 2 2 2 - 1/ Pattern part may be cut fro

46、m basic material. 3.6 Construction. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-* 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitchings. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-ST-751. Whenever two or more methods for seam o

47、r stitch types are given for the same part of the operation any one may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there

48、 is not tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the trousers. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401, shall be caught in other seams of stitchings except for the bottom of legs where a chain of 1/4 to 3/8 inch shall be left u

49、ntrimmed. Topstitching and edgestitching shall be 1/16 inch to 1/8 inch from the edge. The bight of the overedge stitching shall be 3/16 inch. The guide and knife shall be set to trim only the ravelled ends of the fabric. The use of a trimming knife in the overedging of the right fly in operations 4d and 7b is prohibited. 3.6.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitching when not caught in other seams or