1、Designation: F1774 13Standard Specification forClimbing and Mountaineering Carabiners1This standard is issued under the fixed designation F1774; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in
2、 parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This specification covers six mechanical tests and theminimum performance requirements for carabiners designedspecifically for the sports of cli
3、mbing and mountaineering.1.2 Two different types of carabiners are defined in thisstandard, non-locking carabiners and locking carabiners.1.3 Tests contained herein are destructive in nature. Cara-biners subjected to any of these tests shall not be used in anyway after testing except in evaluating t
4、he results of suchtesting.1.4 This specification does not imply approval of anymethod of use of climbing and mountaineering carabiners. Inaddition, the test load values contained herein are not to beinterpreted as the forces which a climbing and mountaineeringcarabiner may be subjected to, or expect
5、ed to sustain in actualfield use.1.5 This specification is limited to carabiners made of steelor aluminum alloys only.1.6 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as thestandard.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2E4 Practices for Force Verification of Testing MachinesF1772 Specificat
6、ion for Harnesses for Rescue, Safety, andSport Activities2.2 Other Standard:EN 566:1994 Slings preliminary3. Terminology3.1 DefinitionsTerms defined in Terminology F1772 shallbe applicable to this specification.3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:3.2.1 carabiner, na self-closing gated
7、, load-bearing, con-nective device. Some carabiner models may have cocking orblocking devices, that when activated, override the self-closingfeatures.3.2.2 durably affxed, adjthe manner of attaching informa-tion directly to the product which endures for the life of theproduct.3.2.3 failure, nan arbi
8、trary point beyond which a materialor product ceases to be functionally capable of its intended use.In this application, the point at which some part of thecarabiner physically breaks or distorts to an extent that the testmembers are released.3.2.4 locking carabiner, na carabiner with a mechanismtha
9、t reduces the possibility of a gate being opened inadver-tently. A locking mechanism requires at least two differentconsecutive manual actions to open the gate.3.2.5 nonlocking carabiner, nany carabiner that does nothave a mechanism that reduces the possibility of a gate beingopened inadvertently.3.
10、2.6 normal body weight, na standardized weight thatrepresents a typical climber, defined as FunctionTest Force No.1.3.2.7 ultimate strength, nthe maximum force sustained bya carabiner during an ultimate force test, prior to its failure.4. Requirements4.1 Product information shall include the followi
11、ng items:4.1.1 Manufacturers or Distributors Name or LogoAclear indication as to who is responsible for the primarymanufacture or distribution, or both, of the product.4.1.2 Major Axis Gate Closed Ultimate StrengthA clearindication as to the major axis gate closed strength by eithersymbol or pictori
12、al representation.4.1.3 Minor Axis Gate Closed Ultimate StrengthA clearindication as to the minor axis gate closed ultimate strength byeither symbol or pictorial representation.4.1.4 Major Axis Gate Open Ultimate StrengthA clearindication as to the major axis gate open ultimate strength byeither sym
13、bol or pictorial representation.4.1.5 Lot NumberA manufacturers or distributors lotnumber.1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee F32 on Searchand Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on Equipment,Testing, and Maintenance.Current edition approved Dec
14、. 15, 2013. Published February 2014. Originallyapproved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 2005 as F1774 99 (2005).DOI: 10.1520/F1774-13.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards
15、volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States14.1.6 Either symbol or pictorial representation to read themanufacturers or distributors instructions.
16、4.2 Lettering, symbols, and pictorial representations shall bedurably affixed to the carabiner.4.3 Lettering, symbols, and pictorial representations shall bea minimum of 2 mm (564 in.) in height.5. Significance and Use5.1 Gate Function During Body Weight TestThis testsimulates a climbers body weight
17、 of Function Test Force No.1 and verifies that the gate functions as intended under bodyweight force.5.2 Major Axis Gate Closed 70 % Force TestThis testverifies that the gate functions as originally intended afterFunction Test Force No. 2 has been applied and released.5.3 Locking Mechanism TestThis
18、test verifies that thelocking mechanism keeps the gate in the locked positionbetween forces of 0 kN and Function Force Test No. 3.5.4 Major Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength TestThistest is intended to show the force required to physically fail thecarabiner.5.5 Major Axis Gate Open Ultimate Strengt
19、h TestThis testsimulates a potential inadvertent use of a carabiner. It isintended to show the force required to physically fail thecarabiner.5.6 Minor Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength TestThistest simulates a potential inadvertent use of a carabiner. It isintended to show the force required to fa
20、il physically thecarabiner along the minor axis.6. Responsibility for Quality Assurance6.1 Quality control is solely the responsibility of the manu-facturer or purchaser, or both, and is not addressed by thisspecification.7. Apparatus and Condition7.1 Tensile Tester, capable of calibration in accord
21、ance withPractices E4 to the ultimate strength of all carabiners tested.7.2 Test Fixtures and Supplies:7.2.1 There are four total test pins required, two pins with6 6 0.05-mm radius and two pins with 5 6 0.05-mm radius.Pins must be alloy steel and heat-treated to minimum Rockwellhardness, C scale 60
22、.The mean surface roughness, Ra, must notexceed 0.8 m and the peak to valley height, Rmax, must notexceed 6.3 m. The fixture should be designed in such a waythat the pins do not rotate and that the carabiner is free to locateitself on the pins when the force is applied. See Figs. 1 and 2.7.2.2 Molyb
23、denum-Based Grease.7.3 Test ConditionsThe ambient temperature shall bebetween 15 and 23C.8. Hazards8.1 Carabiners may disengage or eject parts from the testfixture. Use a safety screen and wear safety glasses whiletesting. Do not perform this test alone.9. Sampling9.1 Number of TestsThe number of sa
24、mples for testingwill be specified by the manufacturers quality assuranceprogram. A minimum of five will be used, in sequence, for thegate function during body weight, major axis gate closed 70 %,and major axis gate closed ultimate strength tests. A minimumof five will be used for the major axis gag
25、e open ultimatestrength test.Aminimum of five will be used for the minor axisgate closed ultimate strength test.10. Performance Specifications10.1 Gate Function During Body Weight Test:10.1.1 Function Test Force No. 1 will be used for this test.Each of the carabiners subjected to the body weight tes
26、t shallshow no evidence of distortion that impairs the designedfunction.10.1.2 While the body weight force is applied, the carabinergate shall open and close as designed and with the same qualityand performance as before the test.10.1.3 When a locking carabiner is locked while the bodyweight force i
27、s applied, the locking mechanism must be able tobe rotated to its unlocked position by hand after the force isremoved.10.2 Major Axis Gate Closed 70 Force TestFunction TestForce No. 2 will be used for this test. Each of the carabinerssubjected to the 70 % force test shall show no evidence ofdistorti
28、on that impairs the designed function after the test isconducted. The locking mechanism of a locking carabiner shallopen and close as originally intended and with the same qualityand performance as before the test.10.3 Locking Mechanism TestFunction Test Force No. 3will be used for this test. With t
29、he locking mechanism in thelocked position and an inward force of 50 N applied to thecenter of the gate, the gate must not open as Function TestForce No. 3 is applied to the major axis of the carabiner. Whenthe load is released, the gate and locking mechanism must befully functional.10.4 Major Axis
30、Gate Closed Ultimate Strength Test:10.4.1 Each of the nonlocking carabiners subjected to thistest shall have an ultimate strength equal to or greater than themajor axis gate closed minimum ultimate strength for nonlock-ing carabiners listed in Table 1.10.4.2 Each of the locking carabiners subjected
31、to this testshall have an ultimate strength equal to or greater than themajor axis gate closed minimum ultimate strength for lockingcarabiners listed in Table 1.10.5 Major Axis Gate Open Ultimate Strength Test:10.5.1 Each of the nonlocking carabiners subjected to thistest shall have an ultimate stre
32、ngth equal to or greater than themajor axis gate open minimum ultimate strength for nonlock-ing carabiners listed in Table 1.10.5.2 Each of the locking carabiners subjected to this testshall have an ultimate strength equal to or greater than themajor axis gate open minimum ultimate strength for lock
33、ingcarabiners listed in Table 1.10.6 Minor Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength Test:F1774 13210.6.1 Each of the nonlocking carabiners subjected to thistest shall have an ultimate strength equal to or greater than theminor axis gate closed minimum ultimate strength for nonlock-ing carabiners listed in
34、 Table 1.10.6.2 Each of the locking carabiners subjected to this testshall have an ultimate strength equal to or greater than theminor axis gate closed minimum ultimate strength for lockingcarabiners listed in Table 1.11. Procedure11.1 Gate Function During Body Weight Test:11.1.1 Grease the test pin
35、s where the carabiner comes incontact with the pins.11.1.2 Position the carabiner on the 6-mm radius test pins asshown in Fig. 1. Position the test pins against the spine of thecarabiner. If the carabiner has a captive sling that is intended tobe loaded directly, apply the test force directly to the
36、 sling byone of the 5-mm radius test pins in accordance with EN 566. Ifthe carabiner has provision for a semicaptive sling, apply thetest force to a short sling by one of the 5-mm radius test pins.11.1.3 Load the carabiner to within 2 % of the Function TestForce No. 1, without going above it, at a r
37、ate of 10 6 5mm/min.11.1.4 Nonlocking TestWhile maintaining the force, openand close the gate and check that gate functions as originallyintended. On the report, record whether gate opens or closes asintended and the actual tensile force applied.11.1.5 Locking TestWhile maintaining the force with th
38、elocking mechanism unlocked, open and close the gate andcheck that the gate functions as originally intended. On thereport, record whether gate opens or closes as intended and theactual force applied. Engage the locking mechanism to itslocked position by hand. Release the force.11.1.6 For locking ca
39、rabiners, release the locking mecha-nism by hand. On the test report, record whether the mecha-nism can or cannot be unlocked by hand.11.2 Major Axis Gate Closed 70 % Force Test:11.2.1 Perform the first two steps as described in 11.1.FIG. 1 Major Axis Test Set-UpF1774 13311.2.2 Load the carabiner to
40、 within 2 % of the Function TestForce No. 2, without going above it, at a rate of 10 6 5mm/min.11.2.3 Release the force on the carabiner.11.2.4 Open and close the gate and check that the gatefunctions as originally intended.NOTE 1Dimensions in millimetres.FIG. 2 Minor Axis TestsF1774 13411.2.5 On th
41、e report, record whether the gate opens orcloses as intended and the actual force applied.11.3 Locking Mechanism Test:11.3.1 Perform the first two steps as described in 11.1.11.3.2 Engage the locking mechanism to the locked posi-tion.11.3.3 Apply a continuous force of 50 N towards the spineat the ce
42、nter of the gate.11.3.4 Load the carabiner to within 2 % of the Function TestForce No. 3, without going above it, at a rate of 10 6 5mm/min.11.3.5 Verify that the gate does not open from 0 to FunctionForce No. 3. Release the force.11.3.6 When the load is released, the gate and lockingmechanism must
43、be fully functional.11.3.7 On the report, record whether the gate opened or didnot open. Record if the locking mechanism is fully functionalor not fully functional.11.4 Major Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength Test:11.4.1 Perform the first two steps as described in 11.1.11.4.2 Load the carabiner at
44、a rate of 30 6 5 mm/min, untilfailure.11.4.3 Record the ultimate strength on the test report.11.5 Major Axis Gate Open Ultimate Strength Test:11.5.1 Perform the first two steps as described in 11.1.11.5.2 Load the carabiner at a rate of 30 6 5 mm/min withthe gate latched open by suitable means, unti
45、l failure.11.5.3 Record the ultimate strength on the report.11.6 Minor Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength Test:11.6.1 Position the carabiner on the 5-mm radius test pins asshown in Fig. 2 (see Appendix X2 for further explanation). Forlocking carabiners, test the carabiners with the locking mecha-nis
46、m in the locked position. In order to avoid movement of thetest pins during the test, use one of the two options. Option 1:Machine notches in the body and the gate as shown in Fig. 2.Option 2: Use clamps to position the test pins as shown in Fig.2. If the internal clearance between the gate and the
47、spine doesnot accommodate two 5-mm radius test pins, modify the pinsso that they can be positioned as shown in Fig. 2.11.6.2 Load the carabiner at a rate of 30 6 5 mm/min, untilfailure.11.6.3 Record the ultimate strength on the report.12. Certification12.1 When specified in the purchase order or con
48、tract, thepurchaser shall be furnished certification that samples repre-senting each lot have been tested or inspected in this specifi-cation and the requirements of this specification have been met.When specified in the purchase order or contract, a report ofthe results shall be furnished.13. Repor
49、t13.1 Report the following information:13.1.1 Name of the laboratory or agency that performed themechanical tests.13.1.2 Date of testing.13.1.3 Manufacture or brand and model of carabiners tested.13.1.4 Information required by Practices E4 for test ma-chine.13.1.5 Name of test administrator.13.1.6 Identification of lot and size of lot tested.13.2 Results of Gate Function Under Body Weight Test:13.2.1 Actual force applied.13.2.2 Gate opens/gate does not open.13.2.3 Gate closes/gate does not close.13.2.4 With locking mechanism locked: Gate
