1、. I INCH-POUND 1 MIL-C-368J 4 May 1989 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-3 68H 15 October 1973 MILITARY SPECIFICATION CLOTH, SATIN, RAYON AND CLOTH, TWSLL, RAYON This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers rayon l
2、ining cloths for use in various clothing items. 1.2 Classification. The cloth shall be of the following classes as specified (see 6.2). Class 1 - Twill, 3.7 ounce Class 2 - Twill, 4.2 ounce Class 3 - Satin, 4.5 ounce 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. Beneficial comments (recommendati
3、ons, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: U.S. Army Natick Research, Development, and Engineering Center, Natick, MA 01760-5014 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appe
4、aring at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC NIA FSC 8305 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. . THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS /& PAGES. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-3bJ 83 777790
5、6 0370773 5 w , MIL-C-368J * 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues o these documents are those listed in the issue of the Departme
6、nt of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATION FEDERAL PPP-P-1133 - Packaging of Synthetic Fiber Fabrics STANDARDS FED ERAL FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods * (Unle
7、ss otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military speciEications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Naval Publications and Forms Center, (ATTN: NPODS), 5801 Tabor Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19120-5099.) * 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following ot
8、her Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. FEDERAL TRADE COMMZSC ION Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (Copies ar
9、e available from the Federal Trade Commission, Washington, DC 20580-0001 ) 9: 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted are those listed in the is
10、sue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-C-3
11、bJ 3 77977Ob 0370774 7 MIL-C-368J * AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC) Chromatic Transference Scale (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.) * (Non-Go
12、vernment standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or thr.ough libraries or other informational services.) * 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of
13、 this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS * 3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be su
14、bjected to first article inspection (see 6.3) in accordance with 4.3. 3.2 Standard sample. The dyed and finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (s
15、ee 6.4). * 3.3 Material. The yarns shall be multifilament rayon. It is encouraged that recycled material be used when practical as long as it meets the requirements of this specification. 3.4 Color. The color of the cloth shall be as specified (see 6.2) and shall match the standard sample. The use o
16、f dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid is prohibited. The dyestuffs shall be chosen and applied so that the dyed and finished cloth shall show no more labile sulfur than shown by the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.4.3. When a standard s
17、ample is not available, the dyed and finished cloth shall show no more than a slight trace of labile sulfur as defined in the test method specified in 4.4.3. treatment to fix the dyestuffs to the fibers, the contractor shall certify in writing to the contracting officer that in the additive material
18、 formaldehyde is not the principle fixing agent and that the additive material used will not create an odor or cause degradation of the cloth during storage. When dyestuffs are used which require an additional * 3.4.1 Matching. The color of the dyed cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed
19、under filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight and that have a correlated color temperature of 7500 + 200 K, with illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300 5 200 K. 3 t Provided by IHSNot for Resal
20、eNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-3bJ 3 7777706 0370775 7 MIL-C-368 J 3,4,2 Colorfastness. The finished cloth shall show fastness to perspiration and wet drycleaning equal to or better than the standard sample or equal to or better than a rating of “good“. T
21、he finished cloth shall show fastness to crocking equal to or better than the standard sample or shall have an AATCC Chromatic Transferance Scale rating of not lower than 3.5 except for black, which shall have an AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale rating of not lower than 2.5. Testing shall be as sp
22、ecified in 4.4.3. 3.5 Physical requirements. The physical requirements of the finished cloth shall be as specified in table I when tested as specified in 4.4.3, TABLE I. Physical requirements Breaking Breaking Weight Yarns streng th strength oz/sq yd per inch (dry), pounds (wet), pounds (minimum) (m
23、inimum) (min imum) (min imum) Class Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Weave 1 3.7 121 07 1 O0 50 40 20 2/1 right twill 2 4.2 142 71 115 55 46 22 2/1 right twill 3 4.5 180 67 150 55 60. 22 5-harness satin (see fig. i) 3.5.1 Width. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the width shall be not less
24、 than 41 inches inclusive of selvages. 3.6 Finish. The cloth shall be natural finish. The use of resins, oils, starches, or gums in the finishing of the cloth is prohibited, 3.7 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be not less than 5.0 nor greater than 8.5 when tested as
25、 specified in 4.4.3. fi 3.8 Shrinkage. The shrinkage or elongation in both the warp or filling direction of the finished cloth shall not be greater than 3.5 percent for the individual sample unit and not greater than 3.0 percent for the lot average when tested as specified in 4.4.3. 3.9 Length and p
26、ut-uE. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 50 yards. Each length shall be put-up in a roll as specified in 5.1. 3.10 Fiber identification. Each roll shall be labeled, ticketed or invoiced for fiber content in accordance with th
27、e Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-C-3bJ 3 m 7779706 0370776 O m MIL-C-368J 3.11 Face identification, The face side of the cloth shall be identified by s
28、tamping the face side with the word “FACE“ at each end of the roll. 3.12 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. The demerit points per 100 square yards shall not exceed the specified point values. 4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS * 4
29、.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements (examinations and tests) as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contract
30、or may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in this specification where such inspections are deemed necessa
31、ry to ensure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements. .Et 4.1.1 Responsibility for compliance. All items shall meet all requirements of sections 3 and 5. The inspection set forth in this specification shall become a part of the contractors overall inspection system or quality progra
32、m. The absence of any inspection requirements in the specification shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling inspection, as part of manufacturing o
33、perations, is an acceptable practice to ascertain conformance to requirements, however, this does not authorize submission of known defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to accept defective material. 4.1.2 Certificates of compliance. When certificates of c
34、ompliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the certification. * 4.2 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows: a. First article inspection (see 4.3) b. Quality conformance i
35、nspection (see 4.4) * 4.3 First article inspection. When a first article is required (see 3.1 and 6.21, it shall be examined for the defects specified in 4.4.2.1 through 4.4.2.4 and tested for the characteristics specified in table II. 4.4 Quality conformance inspection. 5 Provided by IHSNot for Res
36、aleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_._ tIIL-C-368J 83 7777706 0370777 2 O MIL-C-368J 4.4.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unles
37、s otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document. 4.4.2 End item visual examination. 4.4.2.1 Yard-by-yard examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined on the face side only. When the total yardage in the roll does not exceed 100 ya
38、rds, the entire yardage in the roll shall be examined. in the roll exceeds 100 yards, only 100 yards shall be examined. All defects, as defined in section III of FED-STD-4, which are clearly noticeable at normal inspection distance (3 feet) shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in 4.
39、4.2.1.1. No linear yard (increments of 1 yard on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any one roll within the sample shall be penalized more than four points, The sample size shall be 20 rolls selected from 20 containers. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yar
40、ds of the total yardage examined exceeds 25.0 points. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards of two or more individual rolls exceeds 38.0 points. If no individual roll exceeds 38.0 points per 100 square yards, the lot shall be acceptable with respect to this characteristic.
41、 If one roll exceeds 38.0 points per 100 square yards, a second sample of 20 rolls shall be examined only for individual roll quality examination, The lot shall be -unacceptable if one or more rolls in the second sample exceeds 38.0 points per 100 square yards, For individual roll quality examinatio
42、n, local type defects only shall be scored. quality shall be as follows: When the total yardage Point computation for lot quality and individual roll Total points scored in sample x 3600 = Points per 100 Contracted width of cloth (inches) x Total yards inspected square yards 4.4.2.1.1 Demerit points
43、. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows: For defects up to 3 inches in any dimension - one point For defects exceeding 3 inches, but not exceeding 6 inches in any dimension - two points For defects exceeding 6 inches, but not exceeding 9 inches in any dimension - three points For defects excee
44、ding 9 inches in any d hens i on - four points 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-* MIL-C-3bJ 3 777770b 0370778 - MIL-C-368J The following defects, when present, shall be scored four points for each yard in which they occur: 4.4.2. Obj
45、ectionable odor Width less than specified Poor dye penetration, mottled, streaky or cloudy Bias or bowed filling - distortion at any point, 2 Turned selvage, which cannot be flattened by manua inches from normal alignment Length examination. During the yard-by-yard exam in the sample unit shall be e
46、xamined for length. Any length or more pressure nation, eac-. roll found to be less than the minimum specified or more than 2 yards less than the length marked on the ticket shall be considered a length defect. The lot shall be rejected if two or more rolls in the sample are defective with respect t
47、o length or if the total of the actual lengths of rolls in the sample is less than the total of the lengths marked on the roll tickets. 4.4.2.3 Shade examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for shade. Any roll in the sample off shade or shaded side
48、 to side, side to center, or end to end shall be cause for rejection of the entire lot represented by the sample. 4.4.2.4 Roll identification examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for defects listed below. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or
49、more of the following defects are present: Face identification missing from either or both ends. Not labeled or ticketed in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. 4.4.3 End item testing. The cloth shall be tested for the characteristics The methods of testing specified in FED-STD-191 wherever listed in table II. applicable and as listed in table II shall be followed. be 3-% continuous yards full
