1、Designation: D 4116 01Standard Performance Specification forWomens and Girls Knitted and Woven Corset-Girdle-Combination Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4116; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revi
2、sion, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven and knit-ted fabrics composed of any textile fiber or m
3、ixture of fibersused in corsets, girdles or a combination of the same.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted or woven corset-girdle-combination fabrics, to knittedlace fabrics, and to fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections
4、 for those properties where each fabric direction ispertinent.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica
5、-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard SeamD 1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum Type (Elmen
6、dorf) ApparatusD 2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by theTongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)D 2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine)3D 29
7、05 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor TextilesD 3786 Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength ofKnitted Goods and Nonwoven Fabrics: Diaphragm Burst-ing Strength Tester Method4D 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of KnittedGoods: Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test4D
8、 5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongationof Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)2.2 AATCC Test Methods:58 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laund
9、ering,Commercial: Accelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after RepeatedHome Launderings135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Woven or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering18
10、8 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure No. 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure No. 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure No. 3 AATCC Chromatic Transfer-ence Scale.2.3 Federal Standard:616 CFR, Chapter II-Consumer Product Safety CommissionSubch
11、apter D-Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations2.4 Military Standard:7MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test1This specification is under the juris
12、diction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved May 10, 2001. Published July 2001. Originallypublished as D 4116 82. Last previous edition D 4116 95a.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.
13、org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Discontinued; see 1994 Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.4Discontinued; see 1997 Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07
14、.02.5Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.6Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.7Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins
15、 Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.methods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 For definitions of textile term
16、s used in this specifica-tion, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC methods and toTerminology D 123.3.2 Definitions found in a dictionary of common terms aresuitable for this specification.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of knitted and woven fabrics for wom-ens and girls corset-gir
17、dle-combinations shall conform to thespecification requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon agreement between the purchaser and the supplier,fabrics intended for this end use should meet all the require-ments listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purpos
18、es of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified upon agree-ment between the purchaser and the supplier
19、.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4116except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements
20、listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified met
21、hods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lot
22、sample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking Force (woven fabrics only)Determine thedry breaking force in the standard atmosphere for testingtextiles, as directed in Test Method D 5034, using a
23、constantrate of traverse (CRT) tensile-testing machine with the speed ofthe pulling clamp at 300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class in colorfastness is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible color change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color chang
24、e orcolor transfer.CharacteristicRequirementsSectionKnit WovenBreaking strength (load)(CRT)A. 301 N (70 lbf), min 7.1Bursting strength (ball burst)A222 N (50 lbf), min . 7.2Tongue-tear strengthA. 13 N (3 lbf), min 7.3Yarn slippage . 6mm(14 in.) separation 155 N (35 lbf),min7.4Dimensional change:Laun
25、dering 7.5.1LengthWidth5 % max5 % max5 % max3 % maxColorfastness:Burnt gas fumes1 cycle: 7.6.1Shade change, original fabric Class 4B, min Class 4B, minShade change, after onelaunderingClass 4B, min Class 4B, minLaundering: 7.6.2Shade changeStainingClass 4B, minClass 3C, minClass 4B, minClass 3C, min
26、Crocking: 7.6.3DryWetClass 4D, minClass 3D, minClass 4D, minClass 3D, minPerspiration: 7.6.4Shade changeStainingClass 4B, minClass 3C, minClass 4D, minClass 3D, minLight (10 AATCC FU)A(xenon-arc) Step 4B, min Step 4C, min 7.6.5Chlorine Bleach Class 4B, min Class 4B, min 7.6.6Non-chlorine Bleach Clas
27、s 4B, min Class 4B, min 7.6.7Flammability pass pass 7.7AThere is more than one method that can be used to measure breaking strength (load).BAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.CAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.DAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.D4116012NOTE 2If preferred, a constant-rate-of-extension (C
28、RE) tensile-testing machine may be used. The crosshead speed should be as agreedupon between the purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained with the CRT machine and withthe CRE machine. Consequently, these two breaking load testers cannot beused inter
29、changeably. In case of controversy, the CRT method shallprevail.7.2 Bursting Strength (knit fabrics only)Determine thebursting strength of knit fabrics as directed in Test MethodsD 3786 or D 3787 as agreed upon between the purchaser andthe supplier.NOTE 3Care should be taken to subtract the tare dia
30、phragm pressurefrom the gross pressure to obtain actual bursting strength of fabric whenusing the diaphragm bursting tester. Calibrate the equipment according tomanufacturers instruction before use. Since there is no overall correlationbetween the results obtained with the CRT machine equipped with
31、abursting attachment and the diaphragm bursting tester, these two burstingtesters cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRTmachine equipped with a bursting attachment method shall prevail.NOTE 4The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting
32、 attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tested method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the supplier us
33、ing randomized replicatespecimens of the type of material to be evaluated.7.3 Tongue-Tear Strength (woven fabrics only)Determinethe tear strength as directed in Test Method D 2262.NOTE 5If preferred, the use of Test Methods D 1424 or D 2261 ispermitted with existing requirements as given in this spe
34、cification. Theremay be no overall correlation between the results obtained with thetongue-tear machines and with the Elmendorf machine. Consequently,these three testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy,Test Method D 2262 shall prevail.7.4 Resistance to Yarn Slippage (woven fab
35、rics only)Determine the resistance to yarn slippage as directed in TestMethod D 434.NOTE 6The precision of Test Method D 434 is being established, andit may not be suitable for fabrics with a low number of warp (ends) andfilling (picks) counts (see 5.2).7.5 Dimensional Change:7.5.1 LaunderingDetermi
36、ne the maximum-dimensionalchange after five launderings, or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the supplier, as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Test Method 135.7.6 Colorfastness:7.6.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one
37、launderingor one drycleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 23 after1 cycle.NOTE 7Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.1.7.6.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC TestMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as s
38、pecified by theseller.7.6.3 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shadesand AATCC Test Method 116 for prints, or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier.7.6.4 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in
39、AATCC Test Method 15.7.6.5 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Test Method 16.NOTE 8There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Test Method 16, with nooverall correlations between them. Consequently, these machine
40、s cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with theWater Cooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.6.6 Colorfastness to Chlorine BleachDetermine color-fastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.7.6.7 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine BleachDete
41、rminecolorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.7.7 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier,provided they meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of theFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 fabric; foundation garmen
42、t; performance; specificationASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof inf
43、ringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this stand
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45、ews known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D4116013
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