BS 6189-1989 Glossary of terms relating to fabrics and associated fibres yarns and processes《有关织物、纤维、纱线及工艺的术语词汇》.pdf

1、BRITISH STANDARD BS 6189:1989 Glossary of Terms relating to fabrics and associated fibres, yarns and processes UDC 677:001.4BS6189:1989 This British Standard, having been prepared under the directionof the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee, was published underthe authority of the Boar

2、dofBSI and comes into effecton 30June1989 BSI 11-1999 First published August 1981 First revision June 1989 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference TCM/21 Draft for comment 87/39517 DC ISBN 0 580 16799 2 Committees responsible for this British Standard Th

3、e preparation of this British Standard was entrusted by the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee (TCM/-) to Technical Committee TCM/37, upon which the following bodies were represented: Association of Consulting Scientists British Clothing Industry Association British Retailers Associati

4、on British Textile Employers Association Confederation of British Wool Textiles Ltd. Consumer Policy Committee of BSI Department of Trade and Industry Chemical Textiles, Paper, Timber, Miscellaneous Manufacturing and Service Industries Division (CTPS) Home and Contract Furnishing Textiles Associatio

5、n Institute of Trading Standards Administration International Wool Secretariat Mail Order Traders Association of Great Britain Man-made Fibres Producers Committee Retail Consortium Society of Dyers and Colourists Textile Distributors Association Textile Institute Textile Research Council Amendments

6、issued since publication Amd. No. Date of issue CommentsBS6189:1989 BSI 11-1999 i Contents Page Committees responsible Inside front cover Foreword ii 1 Scope 1 Section 1. Fibres and yarns 2 Section 2. Fabric construction 4 Section 3. Processing 17 Appendix A Glossary of silk terms which are not asso

7、ciated with the fabric construction terms in section two 21 Alphabetical index 23 Publications referred to Inside back coverBS6189:1989 ii BSI 11-1999 Foreword This revision of this British Standard has been prepared under the direction of the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee. It sup

8、ersedes BS6189:1981, which is withdrawn. The principal changes introduced are that the standard has been revised taking into account: a) current information; and b) where appropriate, definitions in the latest edition of Textile Terms and Definitions, published by the Textile Institute 1) . The fibr

9、e, yarn and processing terms defined in this glossary are those associated with the fabric construction terms defined in section 2. A number of terms relating to silk that do not meet this criterion are included inAppendix A, since definitions for these terms are not readily available elsewhere. Som

10、e definitions in this standard differ from those given in Textile Terms and Definitions, e.g. where current usage has changed since the last edition of Textile Terms and Definitions was published or where, for the purposes of a British Standard, a more restricted definition is appropriate. Generic n

11、ames for man-made fibres, which are defined in BS4815, are not included in the glossary. Definitions of generic names for natural fibres have been published as ISO6938 and the resulting information is expected to be implemented as a British Standard. BS7089 gives a definition of nonwovens and defini

12、tions of terms relating to nonwovens are also being prepared for a British Standard. Other British Standard glossaries covering textiles are BS3724 (fibreropes and cordage), BS4440 (fishing nets) and BS5523 (weaves). Calculation of fibre content. All references in this standard to the fibre content

13、of a fabric indicate content in terms of mass as determined in accordance with BS4407, namely, anhydrous mass of the material plus the appropriate conventional regain factor set out in BS4407. Editorial note. In some cases, where two or more terms have the same meaning, one is preferred and is print

14、ed in bold type, the other being printed in medium type and, if deprecated, so marked. Rarely, where two terms are considered to be of equal standing, both are given in bold type. Italicized words in definitions indicate terms that are defined elsewhere in this standard. In this glossary, parenthese

15、s ( ) enclose optional words or phrases that can be omitted from the term or definition without affecting the meaning. Terms marked with an asterisk are defined similarly in Textile Terms and Definitions. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. User

16、s of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. In particular, attention is drawn to the need, if appropriate, for the fibre content to be given in accordance with Statutory Instrument

17、1986 No.26 Trade Descriptions, The Textile Products (Indications of Fibre Content) Regulations1986. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pagesi andii, pages1to24, an inside back cover and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and

18、may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover. 1) The Textile Institute, 10 Blackfriars Street, Manchester M3 5DR.BS6189:1989 BSI 11-1999 1 1 Scope This British Standard defines fabrics and associated fibres, yarns and processing terms

19、in common usage. A glossary of silk terms which are not associated with the fabric construction terms in section 2 is included inAppendix A. NOTEThe titles of the publications referred to in this standard are listed on the inside back cover.BS6189:1989 2 BSI 11-1999 Section 1. Fibres and yarns 1.1 C

20、otton 1.2 Linen 2) 1.3 Silk No. Term Definition 1101 *Lisle thread A highly twisted, plied (usually 2-ply) good-quality cotton hosiery yarn, spun generally in fine counts. All lisle threads are gassed and some may be mercerized. NOTEThe term lisle thread was formerly defined as a plied yarn having “

21、S” and “Z” twist in the singles. 2) When the spinnability of the fibre requires it, up to5 % of man-made fibre is sometimes incorporated as an aid to the spinning process. 1201 combed tow Flax tow fibre that has been subjected to a continuous combing operation on a machine suitable for long staple f

22、ibre. 1202 *flax line The long flax fibre strands remaining after hackling. 1203 *flax tow The short flax fibre strands removed in scutching or hackling. 1204 *natural flax green flax Scutched flax produced from deseeded straw without any intermediate treatment such as retting. 1205 lin bris Mechani

23、cally broken flax fibre. 1206 *linen yarns Yarns spun entirely from flax fibre. 1207 *strick A small bunch of flax straws, of scutched flax, or hackled flax, of a size that can be held in the hand. 1301 *crpe yarn a) A highly twisted yarn which may be used in the production of crpe fabrics. b) A bal

24、anced hand-knitting yarn with a plaited appearance produced by twisting together three or four two-fold yarns. 1302 grenadine A highly twisted organzine yarn. 1303 gum sericin A gelatinous protein usually comprising20 % (m/m) to30 % (m/m) of raw silk, cementing the two fibroin filaments in a silk fi

25、bre. NOTEThe gelatinous protein can be removed by degumming. 1304 *nett silk Raw-silk filaments or strands that may have been processed into yarns by twisting and/or folding. 1305 *organzine A silk yarn used as a warp for weaving or knitting, comprising single threads that are first twisted and then

26、 folded together two or more fold, and then twisted in the direction opposite to that of the singles twist, usually approximately400 to800 turns per metre. 1306 poil A highly twisted singles yarn. 1307 *pure silk (pure dye silk) Silk in which there is no metallic or other weighting of any kind, exce

27、pt that which is an essential part of dyeing. 1308 *raw silk Continuous filaments or strands, containing no twist, as drawn off or reeled from silk cocoons.BS6189:1989 BSI 11-1999 3 1.4 Wool No. Term Definition 1309 *spun silk Yarn produced by dressing or combing processes from silk waste that has b

28、een “boiled off” to remove most of the gum. 1310 *tram A silk weft yarn comprising two or more threads run together and then twisted with approximately120 to200 turns per metre. 1311 *wild silk Most fibres extruded by insect larvae other than bombyx mori. NOTEThe most important of the larvae is tuss

29、ah (tussore). Other types include eri, muga (munga), anaphe and kuriwata. 1401 *botany wool Tops, yarns or fabrics made from merino wool. 1402 *lambs wool Wool from the fleeces of lambs (young sheep up to the stage of weaning). NOTE 1This definition applies irrespective of the breed or type of sheep

30、. NOTE 2It has been common practice in the trade to apply the term “lambswool” to textile products, having a soft handle, made from100 % virgin wool of which at least one-third is lambs wool as defined here. 1403 *merino Wool from merino or merino-type sheep. 1404 Shetland a) Original usage. Yarns s

31、pun in the Shetland Islands from the wool of sheep bred and reared on the islands; b) Current usage. A yarn spun on the woollen system of100 % virgin wool (including wool from the dead animal) of wide-ranging quality; such yarn being capable of imparting to a fabric the qualities of crispness and/or

32、 smoothness and soft handling attributed to the products formerly made exclusively from the Shetland breed of sheep. NOTEWhere the term is qualified by the adiectives “genuine”, “real” or any similar description, or quantified by the terms“100 %” or “all”, this implies that the wool actually origina

33、ted in the Shetland Islands.BS 6189:1989 4 BSI 11-1999 Section 2. Fabric construction No. Term Definition 2001 abbot cloth A heavy coarse cotton or linen fabric, usually in a basket weave. 2002 *afgalaine A plain-weave, all-wool dress fabric, containing either: a) woollen warp with woollen weft; or

34、b) worsted warp with woollen weft where the warp is usually “S” and “Z” twist, arranged alternately, with an “S” twist woollen weft. 2003 agaric A cotton fabric with a loop pile construction. 2004 ajour A lacy open-work embroidery, usually silk. 2005 *Albert cloth A reversible centre or self-stitche

35、d double-cloth overcoating, woven with a different design on each side, in stripes or checks. 2006 all silk A fabric where no textile fibre other than silk is present, irrespective of the amount of weighting. 2007 antung A plain-weave, slub-free fabric made from wild silk. 2008 bag cloth A heavily s

36、ized woven fabric used for making bags to hold dry goods. 2009 bagheera velvet A piece-dyed velvet with a rough surface. 2010 bainin A hand-woven home-spun fabric. 2011 *baize A light-weight woollen felt used for covering tables, screens, etc. 2012 Balbriggan A light-weight circular-knit fabric orig

37、inally made at Balbriggan in Ireland. 2013 balloon cloth *balloon fabric a) A plain-weave closely-woven cotton fabric made from fine yarns, often used for surgeons gowns. b) Any fabric which forms a functional part of the lift-creating and, where different, the outer envelope of a lighter-than-air a

38、ircraft. It is usually a simple, single fabric, of tightly woven construction, and may include rip-stop threads to enhance tear resistance, although some plied fabrics are used. It was originally made of cotton, linen or silk and doped or coated with rubber to reduce gas permeability, but modern fab

39、rics are typically polyamide or polyester coated with a polymer or polymers, and/or laminated with a thin natural or synthetic film or films. This reduces permeability to the lifting gas employed, confers protection against ultraviolet radiation, and provides weather resistance. 2014 *barathea A fab

40、ric of pebbled appearance, usually of twilled hopsack or broken-rib weave, made of silk, worsted, or man-made fibres, and used for a variety of clothing purposes. 2015 bark crpe A heavy crpe with a rough texture. 2016 barrege A sheer fabric, usually of wool or silk, used for veilings. 2017 *beaver c

41、loth A heavy, firm-texture fabric, made from woollen yarns, that is milled, raised, and cut close on the face before receiving a dress-face finish. NOTEIt is intended to simulate natural beaver skin. 2018 *Bedford cord A fabric showing rounded cords in the warp direction with pronounced sunken lines

42、 between them, produced by the nature of the weave. The weave on the face of the cords is usually plain, but other weaves may be used. There are weft floats the width of the cords on the back. Wadding ends may be used to accentuate the prominence of the cords.BS6189:1989 BSI 11-1999 5 2019 *billiard

43、 fabric A fine, heavily milled and dressed woollen fabric of the closely cropped dress-face type, used for covering billiard tables. 2020 blazer cloth A well-milled fabric used for blazers. 2021 *boucl fabric A fabric made with a clear-cut rough or granulated surface produced by means of fancy yarns

44、 and generally used for ladies coats, suits and dresses. 2022 *box cloth An all-wool, woollen spun fabric with a firm handle and a fibrous surface that is usually completely covered with fibres so that no threads show. NOTEIt is woven in a variety of weaves, depending on the mass per unit area requi

45、red, and is used for such purposes as leggings, coachman fabrics and billiard fabrics. 2023 *brocade A figured fabric, usually of single texture, in which the figure is developed by floating the warp threads, the weft threads, or both, and bound in a more or less irregular order. The ground is usual

46、ly formed of a weave of simple character. NOTE 1Many furnishing brocades are made with a satin ground and weft figure. NOTE 2More elaborate fabrics are also made with more than one warp and/or weft. 2024 broderie anglaise A light-weight woven fabric embroidered by a Schiffli machine. 2025 *buckram a

47、) A stiff fabric, generally linen or cotton, made by impregnating a plain-weave open-sett fabric with fillers and stiffeners. b) Fabric consisting of two stiffened fabrics bonded together, the fabrics being not necessarily of identical construction. NOTE1An example of this is an open-sett fabric fro

48、m yarn of high linear density which might be bonded to an open-sett fabric from yarn of low linear density. NOTE2The uses of buckram include linings, millinery, waistbands and book binding. In the twelfth to sixteenth centuries the term had an entirely different meaning; it was applied to fine delic

49、ate fabrics made of linen or cotton used for apparel. 2026 *buckskin fabric A fabric similar in handle and appearance to, but heavier than, a doeskin fabric and made from fine merino wool, close-sett, heavily milled, dressed, and closely cut. 2027 *bunting Fabric made for the manufacture of flags, originally a special type of wool fabric, of plain weave, but now tending to be a polyamide/wool blend, produced from yarns spun on the worsted system. 2028 *cambric A light-weight, closely-woven plain fabric, usually made from cotton or linen, and usually given a slig