1、BRITISH STANDARDBS EN 892:2004Mountaineering equipment Dynamic mountaineering ropes Safety requirements and test methodsThe European Standard EN 892:2004 has the status of a British StandardICS 97.220.40 g49g50g3g38g50g51g60g44g49g42g3g58g44g55g43g50g56g55g3g37g54g44g3g51g40g53g48g44g54g54g44g50g49g
2、3g40g59g38g40g51g55g3g36g54g3g51g40g53g48g44g55g55g40g39g3g37g60g3g38g50g51g60g53g44g42g43g55g3g47g36g58BS EN 892:2004This British Standard was published under the authority of the Standards Policy and Strategy Committee on 10 December 2004 BSI 10 December 2004ISBN 0 580 45023 6 National forewordThi
3、s British Standard is the official English language version of EN 892:2004. It supersedes BS EN 892:1997 which is withdrawn.The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted to Technical Committee SW/136/5, Mountaineering, which has the responsibility to: A list of organizations represented on t
4、his committee can be obtained on request to its secretary.Cross-referencesThe British Standards which implement international or European publications referred to in this document may be found in the BSI Catalogue under the section entitled “International Standards Correspondence Index”, or by using
5、 the “Search” facility of the BSI Electronic Catalogue or of British Standards Online.This publication does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correct application.Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from
6、legal obligations. aid enquirers to understand the text; present to the responsible European committee any enquiries on the interpretation, or proposals for change, and keep the UK interests informed; monitor related international and European developments and promulgate them in the UK.Summary of pa
7、gesThis document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, the EN title page,pages 2 to 26, an inside back cover and a back cover.The BSI copyright notice displayed in this document indicates when the document was last issued.Amendments issued since publicationAmd. No. Date Comments EUROPEAN S
8、TANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 892 November 2004 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 892:1996 English version Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and test methods quipement dalpinisme et descalade - Cordes dynamiques - Exigences de scurit et mthodes dess
9、ai Bergsteigerausrstung - Dynamische Bergseile - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 23 September 2004. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Sta
10、ndard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and b bliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the Central Secretariat or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French
11、, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the Central Secretariat has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republi
12、c, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATI
13、ON EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG Management Centre: rue de Stassart, 36 B-1050 Brussels 2004 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 892:2004: EEN 892:2004 (E) 2 Contents Foreword.3 Introduction .4 1 Scope .5 2 Normative r
14、eferences .5 3 Terms and definitions .5 4 Safety requirements .7 4.1 Construction.7 4.2 Sheath slippage .7 4.3 Static elongation.7 4.4 Dynamic elongation.8 4.5 Peak force during fall arrest, number of drops .8 5 Test methods.8 5.1 Test samples .8 5.2 Conditioning and test conditions.8 5.3 Constructi
15、on, diameter, and mass per unit length.9 5.4 Sheath slippage .9 5.5 Determination of static elongation.13 5.6 Drop test for determination of peak force, dynamic elongation, and number of drops.13 6 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer.18 7 Marking .19 Annex A (informative) List of standard
16、s for mountaineering equipment .25 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.26 EN 892:2004 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 892:2004) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other
17、recreational equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by May 2005, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by M
18、ay 2005. This document supersedes EN 892:1996. This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association to support Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC. For relationship with EU directives, see informative a
19、nnex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following coun-tries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Esto-nia, Finland, France, German
20、y, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom. EN 892:2004 (E) 4 Introduction The text is based on UIAA-Standard B (Union Internationale des Associations dAlp
21、inisme), which has been pre-pared with international participation. This document is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see annex A. EN 892:2004 (E) 5 1 Scope This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for dynamic ropes (single, half and twin ropes) in kern
22、mantel construction for use in mountaineering including climbing. 2 Normative references The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced docum
23、ent (including any amendments) applies. ISO 6487, Road vehicles Measurement techniques in impact tests Instrumentation. 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 dynamic mountaineering rope rope, which is capable, when used as a compone
24、nt in the safety chain, of arresting the free fall of a person en-gaged in mountaineering or climbing with a limited peak force 3.2 single rope dynamic mountaineering rope, capable of being used singly, as a link in the safety chain, to arrest a persons fall 3.3 half rope dynamic mountaineering rope
25、, which is capable, when used in pairs, as a link in the safety chain to arrest the leaders fall (see Figure 1) 3.4 twin rope dynamic mountaineering rope, which is capable, when used in pairs and parallel, as a link in the safety chain to arrest a persons fall (see Figure 2) EN 892:2004 (E) 6 Figure
26、 1 Examples of use of half ropes Figure 2 Use of twin rope EN 892:2004 (E) 7 3.5 kernmantel rope rope composed of a core and a sheath 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Construction Dynamic ropes in accordance with this document shall be made in a kernmantel construction. If the properties of the rope change
27、 along its length, for example: diameter, strength, markings, samples from each section shall be submitted for testing. The information to be supplied shall all correspond to the lowest performance section of the rope. 4.2 Sheath slippage When tested in accordance with 5.4, the sheath slippage in a
28、longitudinal direction relative to the core (in positive or negative direction) shall not exceed 20 mm (see Figure 3). Key 1 Sheath 2 Core aPositive sheath slippage 20 mm bNegative sheath slippage 20 mm Figure 3 Sheath slippage 4.3 Static elongation When tested in accordance with 5.5, the static elo
29、ngation shall not exceed: 10 % in single ropes (single strand of rope); 12 % in half ropes (single strand of rope); 10 % in twin ropes (double strand of rope). EN 892:2004 (E) 8 4.4 Dynamic elongation When tested in accordance with 5.6, the dynamic elongation shall not exceed 40 % during the first d
30、rop for each test sample. 4.5 Peak force during fall arrest, number of drops 4.5.1 Peak force in the rope When tested in accordance with 5.6, the peak force in the rope, during the first drop, for each test sample, shall not exceed: 12 kN in single ropes (single strand of rope); 8 kN in half ropes (
31、single strand of rope); 12 kN in twin ropes (double strand of rope). 4.5.2 Number of drops When tested in accordance with 5.6, each rope sample shall withstand at least 5, for twin ropes at least 12, con-secutive drop tests without breaking. 5 Test methods 5.1 Test samples A test sample with a lengt
32、h of: 40 m for single and half ropes; 80 m or 2 40 m for twin ropes shall be available for the tests. Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.3 on an unused test sample. Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.4 on two unused test samples with a length of (2 250 10) mm. Carry out the test in accor
33、dance with 5.5 on two unused test samples with a length of at least 1 500 mm. Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.6 on three unused test samples with a minimum length of 5 m for single and half ropes, and 10 m for twin ropes, cut out of the available test sample. 5.2 Conditioning and test condi
34、tions Dry the test samples for at least 24 h in an atmosphere of (50 5) C and less than 10 % relative humidity. Subsequently, cool the samples in an atmosphere of (20 2) C and not more than 65 % relative humidity for 2 h. Then condition these test samples in an atmosphere of (20 2) C and (65 2) % re
35、lative humidity for at least 72 h. Then test these samples at a temperature of (23 5) C. EN 892:2004 (E) 9 5.3 Construction, diameter, and mass per unit length 5.3.1 Procedure Clamp the test sample at one end. Load the test sample without shock with a mass1)of: (10 0,1) kg for single ropes; (6 0,1)
36、kg for half ropes; (5 0,1) kg for twin ropes at a distance of at least 1 200 mm from the clamp. After applying the load for 60 s mark within the next 10 s a reference length of (1 000 1) mm on the test sample. The distance of the marking from the clamp or attachment for the test sample shall be at l
37、east 50 mm. Within a further 3 min measure the diameter in two directions around the diameter starting at points 90 apart at each of three levels approximately 100 mm apart. The length of the contact areas of the measuring instrument shall be (50 1) mm. The rope cross-sectional area shall not be sub
38、ject to any compression during the measurement. Then cut out the marked portion of the test sample and determine the mass to the nearest 0,1 g. Check that the construction of the rope is a kernmantel construction. 5.3.2 Expression of results Express the diameter as the arithmetic mean of the six mea
39、surements to the nearest 0,1 mm. Express the mass per unit length in ktex or g/m to the nearest 1 g. 5.4 Sheath slippage 5.4.1 Principle The rope is drawn through the apparatus illustrated in Figure 4, where the movement is restricted by radial forces. The resulting frictional force on the sheath ca
40、uses slippage of the sheath relative to the core. The extent of this slippage is measured. 1) The mass can be introduced by a corresponding force. EN 892:2004 (E) 10 Dimensions in millimetres Key a3 moving plates bSpacers c4 fixed plates Figure 4 Apparatus for testing the sheath slippage 5.4.2 Preparation of the test samples Fuse one end of the sheath and core of each test sample together. Before cutting the other end of each test sam-ple to size, apply a short
