1、Designation: D3887 96 (Reapproved 2008)Standard Specification forTolerances for Knitted Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3887; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A
2、 number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.1. Scope1.1 This specification covers test methods and tolerances
3、applicable to the following properties of knitted fabrics: yield,mass (weight), width, length, fabric count, bursting strength,moisture regain, thickness, extractable matter, and fiber com-position.1.2 These tolerances are applicable to knitted fabrics of alltypes, such as warp knits, weft knits, fl
4、at bed knits, and soforth.1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as thestandard. The values given in parentheses are for informationonly.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this
5、 standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD629 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of TextilesD2257 Test Method for Extract
6、able Matter in TextilesD2494 Test Method for Commercial Mass of a Shipment ofYarn or Manufactured Staple Fiber or TowD2654 Test Method for Moisture in Textiles (Withdrawn1998)3D2720 Practice for Calculation of Commercial Weight andYield of Scoured Wool, Top, and Noil for Various Com-mercial Composit
7、ionsD3773 Test Methods for Length of Woven FabricD3774 Test Method for Width of Textile FabricD3776 Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) ofFabricD3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textil
8、esConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test2.2 Other Documents:Textile Fiber Products Identification Act4Wool Products Labeling Act of 193952.3 Military Standard:6MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give
9、 only thepermanent part of theASTM designation. The current editions of each testmethod cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 bursting strength, nthe force or pressure required torupture a fabric by distending it, when applied at right anglesto the plane of the fabric, under specif
10、ied conditions.3.1.2 commercial mass, nbilled weight (mass) as deter-mined by a generally accepted method or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller.3.1.2.1 DiscussionThe basis for determining the commer-cial weight (mass) of a shipment of textile product is generallyone of the following:
11、(1) Man-Made Fibers:(a) CMRU Basis (commercial moisture regain with un-scoured material)the weight (mass) of unscoured,moisture-free textile product plus the weight (mass) corre-sponding to its commercial moisture regain.(b) CMRS Basis (commercial moisture regain withscoured material)the weight (mas
12、s) of moisture-free tex-tile product after scouring by definite prescribed methods1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originall
13、yapproved in 1980. Last previous edition approved in 2004 as D3887 96 (2004).DOI: 10.1520/D3887-96R08.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards
14、Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.4Act of Congress, “Textile Fiber Products Identification Act,” 85th Congress,Second Session, approved Sept. 2, 1958.5Act of Congress, “Wool Products LabellingAct of 1939,” 76t
15、h Congress, ThirdSession, approved Oct. 14, 1939.6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5098.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United StatesNOTICE: This standar
16、d has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information1plus the weight corresponding to its commercial moistureregain.(c) CAS Basis (commercial allowance with scouredmaterial)the weight (mass) of moisture-free text
17、ile prod-uct after scouring by definite prescribed methods plus theweight corresponding to its commercial allowance.(d) UN Basis (unadjusted net)the weight (mass) ofunscoured textile product with no adjustment for the amountof moisture or finish, or both.(2) Wool:(a) CC Basis (commercial composition
18、)the weight(mass) of wool base as determined by definite prescribedmethods plus the weights (masses) of moisture and othercomponents corresponding to the commercial compositionof the commercially designated material (for explanation,see Practice D2720).(b) UN Basis (unadjusted net)the weight (mass)
19、ofunscoured textile product with no adjustment for the amountof moisture or finish, or other components.3.1.3 commercial moisture regain (CMR), na formallyadopted, arbitrary value, to be used with the oven-dried mass oftextile fibers, when calculating the commercial mass of ashipment or delivery.3.1
20、.4 course, nin knitted fabrics, a row of successiveloops parallel to the width direction of the fabric.3.1.5 finished fabric weight, nmass per unit area ex-pressed in grams per square metre (ounces per square yard),grams per linear metre (ounces per linear yard), or inversely asmetres per kilogram (
21、linear yards per pound), or square metresper kilogram (square yards per pound).3.1.5.1 DiscussionWhen weight (mass) is based on metresor linear yards, the fabric width must be stated.3.1.6 finished yield, nin knitted fabrics, the number offinished square metres per kilogram (square yards per pound)o
22、f finished fabric.3.1.7 greige yield, n in knitted fabrics, the number offinished square metres per kilogram (square yards per pound)of greige fabric.3.1.8 knitted fabric, na structure produced by interloopingone or more ends of yarn or comparable material.3.1.9 knitted fabric count, nthe number (co
23、unted units) ofwale and courses per 25 mm (1 in.).3.1.10 length, nin fabric, the distance from one end to theother, measured parallel to the selvage or flattened tube edge offabric that is under zero tension and free of folds and wrinkles.3.1.11 tolerances, nin mathematics, prescribed limits ofvaria
24、tion for specified properties of a particular material basedon observed values obtained by specified test methods and onsamples that are representative of the material.3.1.12 wale, nin knitted fabrics, a column of successiveloops parallel to the length direction of the fabric.3.1.13 width, nin open-
25、width knit fabric, the perpendicu-lar distance between the selvages when the fabric is laid flat,under zero tension, and free from folds or wrinkles.3.1.14 width, nin tubular knit fabric, the perpendiculardistance between the edges of a flattened tube of fabric that isunder zero tension and free fro
26、m folds or wrinkles.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisspecification, refer to Terminology D123.4. Tolerances4.1 The following are the tolerances for each knitted fabricproperty:Characteristic Requirements SectionYield 5.0 % 8Weight (mass) 5.0 % 9Width 0 to +25 mm(1 in.)10Length
27、2.0 % 11Fabric count 5.0 % 12Bursting strength (ball burst) 10.0 % 13Extractable matter 1.0 %, max 14Fiber content passA15AThose products to which the Wool Products Labeling Act of 19395apply, shallconform to the requirements of that act. Other fabrics shall conform to therequirements of the Textile
28、 Fiber Products Identification Act of 1958.45. Significance and Use5.1 Knitted fabrics are known to exhibit inherent variationsin properties. This specification lists the tolerances for eachproperty deemed acceptable in the trade.5.1.1 These tolerances can be used to determine if knittedfabrics meet
29、 specifications for properties, and provide a guidein case of dispute.5.2 Tolerances agreed upon between the purchaser and theseller shall take precedence over those listed in this specifica-tion.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing, takeat random the number of rolls as di
30、rected in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage
31、.7. Conditioning7.1 For tests made on conditioned material, precondition thespecimens by bringing them to approximate moisture equilib-rium in the standard atmosphere for preconditioning, thenbring the specimens to moisture equilibrium for testing in thestandard atmosphere for testing. It shall be c
32、onsidered thatmoisture equilibrium for testing has been reached when, afterfree exposure to air in motion, the change in weight (mass) ofthe specimen at successive intervals of not less than 2 h doesnot exceed 0.1 % of the specimen weight (mass).7.2 Properties not significantly affected by minor var
33、iationsin atmospheric conditions may be tested in prevailing roomatmospheres by agreement of all parties concerned.7.3 If the samples comprise whole rolls or bolts of fabricthat cannot be properly conditioned in a reasonable time withD3887 96 (2008)2the facilities available, perform the test determi
34、nations on thematerial without conditioning. When tests are carried out underconditions that vary from the standard, report the actualconditions prevailing at the time of test. It must be recognizedthat such results may not correspond with the results obtainedafter testing in the standard atmosphere
35、 for testing textiles.8. Test MethodYield8.1 Determine the greige yield on unscoured or scouredfabric by dividing the commercial mass (weight) of the greigefabric, obtained as directed in Test Method D2494, into thetotal finished square metres (square yards), as calculated fromthe width and lengths
36、on invoices.8.1.1 The general practice in the trade is to determine greigeyield on unscoured fabric. However, in some cases, greigeyield is determined on scoured fabric. Hence, the report for thegreige yield should specify whether unscoured or scoured basiswas used.8.1.1.1 When it can be shown that
37、tests for extractablematter provide the same results as the scour procedure, themass obtained on an unscoured basis can be adjusted by theresults of tests for extractable matter, and the yield reported ona scoured fabric basis.8.2 For finished knit fabrics the yield may also be calculatedby dividing
38、 its commercial mass by the total linear metres(yards), and would be expressed as length per unit mass (yd/lb)based on a given width. For example60-in. wide open widthfabric, 2yd/lb, or 30-in. tubular fabrics, 2yd/lb.8.3 It is recognized that values for fabric widths and lengthsstated on invoices ma
39、y not match those obtained by actualmeasurement. However, in the case of large shipments, it isimpractical to measure the width and length of every roll.Hence, values obtained by actual measurement may also beused to determine yields.8.4 If required, determine moisture regain by taking threespecimen
40、s weighing5gormore and representative of the lotwhen the weight (mass) of the lot is determined, placepromptly in separate airtight containers, and weigh to thenearest 1 mg. Determine the regain of these specimens asdirected in Test Methods D2654.8.4.1 The percentage moisture regain of the fabric sh
41、all bethe arithmetic mean of the results of the three determinations.NOTE 2Yield is useful to the fabric manufacturer for cost purposes.This property is unknown to the purchaser of the dyed and finished fabricunless the information on yield is supplied by the seller.9. Test MethodWeight (Mass)9.1 De
42、termine the fabric weight (mass) as directed in TestMethod D3776 as agreed to between the purchaser and seller(see Note 3).NOTE 3Test Method D3776 for determining weight (mass), TestMethod D3774 for determining width and Test Methods D3773 fordetermining length are intended to be used with woven fab
43、rics. Theprecision of these test methods when used to determine these propertiesfor knitted fabrics is being determined.9.1.1 The test results from Sections 7 or 8 of Test MethodD3776 will include selvages, except in the case of circular knitfabrics.9.1.2 The test results obtained from Section 7 of
44、TestMethod D3776 are not on a conditioned basis since there is nopractical means to determine the actual moisture content of afull roll or piece.9.1.3 In case of controversy, the procedure in Section 8 ofTest Method D3776 shall prevail.10. Test MethodWidth10.1 Determine the maximum usable width, exc
45、lusive ofgummed or taped selvages and of minor irregularities in width,as directed in Section 9 of Test Method D3774 as agreed tobetween the purchaser or the seller.10.1.1 The test results obtained from Section 6 of TestMethod D3776 are not on a conditioned basis since there is nopractical means to
46、determine the actual moisture content of afull roll or piece.10.1.2 In case of controversy, the procedure in Section 7 ofTest Method D3774 shall prevail.11. Test MethodLength11.1 Determine the fabric length as directed in Section 6, 7,8, or 9 of Test Methods D3773 as agreed to between thepurchaser o
47、r the seller (see Note 3).11.1.1 The test results obtained from Section 7, 8, or 9 ofTest Methods D3773 are not on a conditioned basis since thereis no practical means to determine the actual moisture contentof a full roll or piece.11.1.2 In case of controversy, the procedure in Section 6 ofTest Met
48、hods D3773 shall prevail.12. Test MethodFabric Count12.1 ScopeThis test method is applicable to knitted fab-rics of all types, such as warp knits, weft knits, flat bed knits,and so forth.12.2 Summary of Test MethodThe number of wales andcourses per unit distance are determined using suitable mag-nif
49、ying and counting devices.12.3 Significance and UseThis test method is consideredsatisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipmentsbecause of prior extensive use. In case of disagreement arisingfrom differences in values reported by the purchaser and theseller when using this test method for acceptance testing, thestatistical bias, if any, between the laboratory of the purchaserand the laboratory of the seller should be determined with eachcomparison being based on testing specimens randomly drawnfrom one sampling unit o