1、A-A-55283 August 31,1995 COMMERCLAL ITEM DESCRIPTION SHIRT, WOMANS, TUCK-IN The Gen4 SeMces Administration has authod the use of this commercial itan description for ail Federal agencies. 1. Bone. This commercial item description covers the requimnents for a short and long sleeve dress shirt worn by
2、 female personnel of the Department of the US Army. 2. Classification. The shirts shall be in the following classes: Class 1 Short sleeve Class 2 Long sleeve 3. SALIENT CBARACTERISTICS 3.1 Salient characteristics. The shirt design is a tuck-in made fiom polyester/cotton broadcloth. It shall have two
3、 piece princess style straight front seams and a one piece back. The shirt shall have a convertible collar with colar stays attached to the unhiiar. The shirt shaii have ao seven (7) button fiont closure, positioned with one horizontal buttonhole at top of right hnt and six (6) vertical buttonholes
4、spaced in a distribution U unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-3.1.1 Shoulder EDaulets. The tapered shoulder epaulets shall be 1 718 (5 1/8) inches wide at the armhole seam and 1-5/8 (t 1/8) inches wide at the pointed end and s
5、hall be topstitched 1/4 to 318 inch from the edge. Each shoulder epaulet shall have a buttonhole centered not more than 1/8 inch off center tolerance and 3/8 to 112 inch from point of epaulet. Each shoulder epaulet shall be positioned so that it loop is 1 (5 5/8) inch in front of the shoulder seam a
6、t the armhole and 1 /4 (L 1 /8) inch in back of shoulder seam at neck. 3.1.2 Sleeves 3.1.2.1 Class 1. The edge of the sleeve shall be turned in according to the notches as shown on sample pattern with raw edge turned in 1/4 inch and blindstitched. The hem shall finish 1 e 118 ) inch wide. 3.1.2.2 Cl
7、ass 2. The sleeves shall have a narrow continuous sleeve opening, measuring 3 e 1/8) inches along outside fold, using a continuous strip of basic material. The binding shall finish 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide. The sleeves shall have pleats positioned above the cuffs, as shown on sample pattern, facing towa
8、rds the back of sleeve opening. The base of the sleeve-facing opening shall be reinforced with a 3/8 to 1/2 inch bartack. The cuffs shall finish 2-3/8 (2 1/16) inches wide and shall be edge stitched 1/4 (5 1/16) inch from edge. A horizontal buttonhole shall be placed in the center of each cuff, with
9、 the inside cut end of buttonhole 3/8 (5 1/16) inch from front edges. 3.1.3 Collar. The collar points shall finish 2-5/8 (5 1/8) inches in length. Each point shall have one unslotted or slotted stay. The collar ends shall be centered at equal distance from the center of the shirt front and the openi
10、ng between points shall measure 3/8 to 1 /2 inch when the collar is buttoned. 3.1.4 Seam amearance rating. The shirts shall be evaluated for cloth and seam appearance after five wash and dry cycles when tested in accordance with AATCC Test Method 143 (3)IVA(iii)2). The cloth shall have a seam appear
11、ance rating of 3.5 minimum. Seam ratings shall be as specified below: , Seam Area ollar paulets ght Front seams eft Front seams ole seam nderarm seam ide seams leeve hems (Class 1 only) j. uffs (Class 2 only) I Minimum Averaee Ratine of three observers 3.8 3.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 3.8 2 Provided
12、by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55283 9999974 0368435 547 A-A-55283 3.2 Basic material. The basic material for the shirt shall be a blend of 65 e 5) percent polyester and the remaining percentage cotton. The weave for the cloth shall be pl
13、ain weave and of an end-and-end construction with alternate dyed and white warp yarns and an all white filling. The cloth shall be given a durable press treatment. The fuiished cloth shall match Army Green 415 when viewed under filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight, and that h
14、ave a correlated color temperature of 7500 (2 200) Kelvin (K), with illumination of 100 (2 20) foot candles. It shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300 e 200) K. 3.2.1 The cloth shall have a minimum weight of 3.8 oz./sq. yd. and a maximum weight of 4.3 oz./s
15、q. yd. when tested in accordance with ASTM D-3776, Option C; a minimum.ym count of 100 for the warp direction and 62 for the filling direction when tested in accordance with ASTM D-3775; a minimum breaking strength of 95 lbs. for the warp direction and 55 lbs. for the filling direction when tested i
16、n accordance with ASTM D-5034, and a minimum tearing strength of 4.5 for the warp direction and 3.0 for the filling direction when tested in accordance with . ASTM D- 1424. 3.2.2 The starch and protein content, including chloroform-soluble and water-soluble material, (prior to the application of the
17、 dwable press treatment) shall not exceed 2.0 percent when tested in accordance with Nonferrous Materials, ASTM 629, section 9. 3.2.3 The cloth shall have dimensional stability of not more than 2.0 percent in either the warp or filling direction after five launderings when tested in accordance with
18、AATCC 135- 1992, (3)IVA(iii). The specimen size for dimensional stability shall be 22 by 22 with 18 inch mark- ings in both warp and filling directions. 3.2.4 The finished cloth shall be equal to standard or grade 4 on the AATCC Chromatic Trans- ference Scale when subject to Wet and Dry Crocking in
19、accordance with AATCC 8 and equal to standard or Grade 4 on the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale and Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Colorfastness to laundering (after 3 wash and a minimum breaking strength of 10 pounds per square inch for both the warp and filling direction when tested in accordance
20、 with ASTM D-5034. 3.3.2 The fusible interlining, after fusing to the basic cloth, shall meet an initial warp or machine direction bond strength of 32 ounces minimum per inch and 24 ounces minimum per inch after three laundering cycles in accordance with AATCC 135-1992 (3)IVA(iii), the bond strength
21、 shall be in accordance with AATCC 136-89 and the sample width shall be 3 inches. For optimum results, the fusing material manufacturers recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure and temperature, based upon fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. 3.4 Thread. Th
22、e thread for all sewing operations shall be White AH, C.A. 66050, conforming to A-A-50199, Ticket No. 70,2-p1y for the needle and Ticket No. 100,2-p1y for the looper. 3.5 Buttons. The buttons shall be flat, plastic, pearlescent-polyester composition, with 4 sewing holes, recessed center and 19 line.
23、 The color shall be White BA, C.A. 6203 1, with a glossy fin- ish. 3.6 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be straight-cut, purl or whip type and the finished inside cut length shall be 1 i2 to 911 6 inch long. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked
24、. When purl type buttonholes are used, the purling shall be on the outside of the shirt. 3.7 Collar stays. The stays shall be made from polyethylene terephthalate with a thickness of 0.010 to 0.014 (5 0.001) inch. Thecolor shall be natural (clear or opaque). The stays shall have any commercially acc
25、epted design. Slotted stays shall measure 112 e 1/32) inch wide and un- slotted stays shall measure 3/8 e 1/32) inch wide. Both types shall be 2-3/4 to 2-7/8 inches long. 3.8 Labels. Each shut shall have a white nonwoven commercial size label, and a combination identification/instruction label. The
26、printing shall be black and shall consist of suitable non-to however the design and measurements of the government-furnished pa-; Prn must be maintained for both working, and commercial patterns. . 4. Reeulatorv reauirements. The offerodcontractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maxi
27、mum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR). 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- A-A-55283 9999974 0168439 192 A-A35283 5. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 5.1 Certification. The
28、contractor shall certifi and maintain substantiating evidence that the product offered meets the salient characteristics of this commercial item description; conforms to the produceis own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to requi
29、re proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for under the provisions of the contract. 5.2 Market accebtance criteria. The item offered or a generically similar model must have been sold to the commercial market or to the Government, and the co
30、ntractor shall certify and provide supporting documentation as to its serviceability and the long term (five years) availability of all necessary maintenance and logistics support parts and materials. 5.3 Wan-antv. The item offered shall include the standard warranty given to the commercial market b
31、eginning with the date of delivery of the individual items. 5.4 AcceDtance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order. 5.5 Visual examination. Each shirt shall be examined for the defects listed in section 5.5.1 in accordance with ANSVASQC-Z 1.4. 5.5.1 Defe
32、cts. Any hole, cut, or tear; color not as specified; any shaded part or shade variation; any spot or stain (outside) or woven-in waste, permanent fold, pleat, or crease; raw edges, open seams, thread ends not removed, or loose tension resulting in loose seams; seams twisted, dis- torted, irregular o
33、r open, puckered, or pleated; seam allowance not as specified; any broken or missing stitches, loose or tight stitch tension; any buttonholes omitted, notsecurely caught, or not as specified; any buttons missing, broken, or malformed; any collar, and fiont closure not uniform in size or shape, uneve
34、n, or not stitched properly; any sleeves and cuffs with irregular stitching; twisted, or not uniform in length; any bartack missing, insecure, misplaced, not specified type, or not for the purpose intended; any shoulder epaulets that are twisted, poorly shaped, or misplaced; any fusible interlining
35、that is omitted, twisted, puckered, pleated, has bleed through, applied in the incorrect location, or the wrong color; any materia1 defects, distorted parts or poor workmanship; any component part omitted; label missing, incorrect, misplaced or illegible; finished measure- ment of item not as specif
36、ied; bar code omitted or not readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted .or illegible; bar code not visible on folded, packaged item; bar code causes damage to the item; any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order. 6. PACKAGING. The preservation, pa
37、cking, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-AL.55283 7. NOTES . 7.1 Source of Government documents. Copies of military and Federal documents are available from: Stand
38、ardization Documents rder Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA .19 1 1 1-5094 7.2 &urce of non-Government documents ANSVASQC Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Table for Inspection by Attributes (Application for copies should be addressed to the American National Standards Institute, 11 W.
39、42 nd Street, New York, NY 10036-8002.) AATCC Test Method (Applications for copies should be addressed to American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.0: Box 1221 5, Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.) ASTM Test Methods (Applications for copies should be addressed to American Society
40、 For Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1 187.). . MILITARY INTERESTS: Custodian: CIVIL AGENCY COORDINATING ACTIVITY: GSA - FSS Army - GL PREPARING ACTNITY: DLA - CT Project No. 8410-0859 .- a Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without l
41、icense from IHS-,-,-I 4 a O O O I FRONT VIEW SHIRT, WOMEN S, TUCK-IN, LO“ SLEEVE TYPE I FIGURE 1 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-FRONT VIEW , SHIRT, WOMEN S, TUCK-IN, SHORT SLEEVE TYPE II FIGURE 2 10 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-
