1、 INCH-POUND A-A-55297 December 20, 1999 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-l7618H(NU) 30 September 1988 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION SHIRT, MANS (POLYESTEWCOTTON, TROPICAL, SHORT SLEEVE) The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item description for all Federal agencies. 1. SCOPE.
2、This commercial item description covers the requirements for a polyesterlcotton short sleeve shirt. The shirt is worn by male personnel of the Navy. 2. CLASSIFICATION. The shirt shall be in the following classes and sizes: Class 1 - White (with shoulder loops) Class 2 - Khaki (without shoulder loops
3、) Class 3 - White (without shoulder loops) Schedule of sizes Extra Small (XS), Small (S), Medium (M), Large (L), Extra Large (XL), Extra Extra Large (XXL), Extra Extra Extra Large (XXXL) Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions, clarifications, etc. and any data which may improve t
4、his document should be sent to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, ATTN : DSCP-CRDD, 700 Robbins Avenue, Bldg. 6D, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 191 1 1-5092. AMSC NIA FSC 8405 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55297 3. SALIENT CHARAC
5、TERISTICS 3.1 Description. The short sleeve shirt shall have turned-back facing, notched collar with collar stays and a back yoke. The front shall have a five-button closure with straight style buttonholes with securely barred ends, and breast pockets with button down flaps. The collar and pocket fl
6、aps shall have fusible interlining. The finished pockets shall measure 5-1/2 d+ US) inches in length and 5 d+ US) inches in width for all sizes. The pockets shall be edge stitched 1/16 inch from the folded edge along the sides and bottom. The finished pocket flaps shall measure 5-1/4 d+ US) inches i
7、n width, 2-1/2 C+ US) inches in depth at the center point, and 1-3/4 C+ US) inches in depth at the sides. The pocket flaps shall be edge stitched 1/16 inch from the folded edge along the sides and pointed bottom edge. After the flap is attached, the flap shall be turned down and stitched 3/16 to 1/4
8、 inch from the folded edge enclosing raw edges. The pencil pocket shall be stitched to the left front of the shirt as indicated on the patterns. The finished pencil pocket shall be 2 C+ US) inches wide. Two compartments shall be formed with a row of vertical stitching at the center of the pocket. Th
9、e collar shall be edge stitched 1/16 inch from the sides and outer edge. The fiiished collar shall measure 3-1/4 d+ US) inches wide at the center back and the length shall measure 3-1/4 C+ US) inches at the collar points. The length between the collar points shall not vary more than 1/16 inch. All r
10、aw edges of the shirt shall be overedge stitched. The back yoke shall be edge stitched 1/16 inch from the edge across the back. The shirt hem shall finish 1/4 d+ 1/16) inch with the raw edge turned under. The hem on the bottom of the sleeve shall finish 1 C+ US) inches with the raw edge turned under
11、. There shall be a combination identification and instruction label centered at the back of neck undercollar and sewn into the collar seam. The shirt shall be pressed completely, and the sleeves shall be creased along the top. All pressing shall be performed with a heated pressing iron or a machine
12、at a suitable temperature for synthetics. 3.1.1 Class 1 (only). The fiiished shoulder loops shall measure 1/4 to 5/16 inch wide, and shall be double stitched not less than 3/16 inch wide gauge. The shoulder loops shall be inserted into the seam as indicated by pattern marks, or the free end of loop
13、can be turned under and auto-looped tacked or bartacked to the shirt through the yoke and back extending the width of the loop but not beyond. The loop nearest the collar shall have a free opening of 1 (I US) inch and the loop nearest the dole seam shall have a free opening of 1-3/8 d+ US) inches. 3
14、.2 Material 3.2.1 Basic material The basic material for the shirt shall be a polyester/cotton poplin cloth. The class 1 and 3 shirts shall be White Shade 3013, and the class 2 shirt shall be Khaki Shade 3729 as defiied in the contract. 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking per
15、mitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55297 3.2.1.1 Cloth requirements. The cloth shall be a plain weave. The yarn shall be a blend of 65 I 5 percent polyester and 35 I 5 percent combed cotton. The yarns shall be a blend of polyester and cotton drawn and spun into singles yarns for both the fillin
16、g and warp (and shall be given a visual test). The cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table I. TABLE I. Physical requirements Characteristic Requirements Test method Weight (ozhq. yd.) Minimum Maximum Yarns per inch warp Filling Breaking strength (lb., min.) warp Filling Colorfastn
17、ess to: Light Laundering Perspiration Dimensional change (percent, max.) warp Filling 4.1 4.6 102 50 130 50 3-4 3-4 3-4 2.0 2.0 ASTM-D-3776, Opt. C ASTM-D-3776, Opt. C ASTM-D-3775 ASTM-D-3775 ASTM-D-5034, Opt. G-T or G-E ASTM-D-5034, Opt. G-T or G-E AATCC 16, Opt. A AATCC 61, Test 3A AATCC 15 AATCC
18、96, Opt. Vc and D AATCC 96, Opt. Vc and D 3.2.2 Fusible interlining. A nonwoven fusible interlining shall be used to fuse the pocket flaps and topcollar. The fusible for the pocket flaps shall have a thermal bonded nonwoven substrate fabricated from fibers of polyester and nylon. The polyester adhes
19、ive shall be evenly applied in a suitable weight. The fusible interlining including adhesive shall weigh a minimum of 1.7 ounces per square yard and a maximum of 2.4 ounces per square yard. The minimum breaking strength shall be 3.0 pounds in the warp direction and 2.0 pounds in the filling directio
20、n when tested in accordance with ASTM-D-5034. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55297 The fusible for the topcollar shall have a plain weave substrate fabricated from fibers of carded or combed cotton. The polyethylene, high-densi
21、ty adhesive shall be evenly applied in a suitable weight. The fusible interlining including adhesive shall weigh a minimum of 4.0 ounces per square yard and a maximum of 5.0 ounces per square yard. The minimum breaking strength shall be 35 pounds in the warp direction and 25 pounds in the filling di
22、rection when tested in accordance with ASTM-D-5034. For both the pocket flaps and topcollar, the initial bond strength, after fusing to the shell fabric, shall be a minimum of 32 ounces per inch in the machine direction and a minimum of 24 ounces per inch after 3 launderings. The bond strength shall
23、 be considered acceptable if either begins to debond from the outer shell material (polyester/cotton poplin cloth) at a value equivalent to the minimum bond strength or higher, and then splits from itself, or debonds at a minimum of 20 ounces per inch (initial state) or 17 ounces per inch after the
24、laundering state when tested in accordance with ASTM-D-2724. The color of the fusible shall be white, and the fusible cloth shall not shrink or elongate in excess of 3.0 percent in either warp or filling direction after one laundering when tested as specified in AATCC 96. The dyed and finished cloth
25、 shall show colorfastness to laundering, rating of “3-4” when tested in accordance with AATCC 61-3A and colorfastness to dry heat, rating of “3-4” when tested in accordance with AATCC 117. The appearance of the fused sample shall show no evidence of bubbling, delamination, or strike through 3.2.3 Bu
26、ttons. The buttons for the shirts shall be sewing-hole buttons. The buttons for the class 2 shirts shall be of a melamine formaldehyde composition, size 20-line, 4 lines in thickness, color Khaki A (see 7.2). The buttons for the class 1 and 3 shirts shall be of a pearlescent-polyester composition, s
27、ize 19-line, 4 lines in thickness, color White BA (see 7.2). The color of the buttons shall be a good match to the standard sample. The buttons shall have a glossy finish. The compressive strength shall be 150 lb., min. for the 20-line buttons and 500 lb., min for the size 19- line buttons. 3.2.4 Bu
28、ttonholes. The buttonholes shall be straight style with both ends securely barred. The finished cut length shall be 1/2 +9/16. 3.2.5 Collar stays. The collar stays shall be made from polyethylene terephthalate plastic sheet. The thickness shall be 0.010 I 0.001 inch. The color shall be natural (clea
29、r or opaque) and the transparency and optical properties shall not apply. The stays shall measure from 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide and 3 inches long. Both ends shall be either round, pointed, cut on an angle, or any combination thereof. When other than round, points shall be rounded 3.2.6 Thread. The threa
30、d shall be cotton-covered, polyester core, Tex 35, 2 ply, with a breaking strength of 2.6 pounds minimum and 26 percent maximum elongation when tested in accordance with ASTM-D-2256. Unless otherwise specified, the direction of the twist for plied thread shall be “Z”. The thread shall be White AH fo
31、r class 1 and 3, and dyed Khaki P-1 for class 2 and shall be a good match to the basic material (see 7.2). 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55297 The dyed and finished thread shall show fastness to laundering (3 cycles; dried aft
32、er each cycle), dry heat, light (exposure time shall be 40 standard fading hours:, and when specified, perspiration, and weathering (exposure time shall be 80 hours) equal to or better than the standard sample when tested according to AATCC 61-3A, AATCC 117, AATCC 16, Opt. A, AATCC 15, and AATCC 11
33、1 A, respectively. The dyed thread shall be compared to the standard sample under artificial daylight at 7000 I 500K and iridescent lamplight at 2850 I 100K. The thread shall contain only the minimum amount of lubricant to facilitate sewing. The yarn fiiish shall be non- staining and non-flame propa
34、gating. 3.3 Sizes and measurements. Sizes and measurements of the finished shirts shall be as shown in Table II. TABLE II. Sizes and measurements (inches) I Size A B C D E Back Yoke Sleeve Chest Length Width Length Collar Extra Small 37 30-112 16 6-318 14 Small 41 31 17 6-318 15 Medium 45 31-112 18
35、6-318 16 Large 49 32 19 6-318 17 Extra Extra Large 57 33 21 6-318 19 Extra Large 53 32-112 20 6-318 18 Extra Extra Extra Large 61 33-112 22 6-318 20 I I I Tolerance - +1 - +% - +% - +% - + 114 NOTE: Refer to Figure 1 for measurements A-E. Measurements A, B, C, and D shall be taken with the shirt ful
36、ly buttoned, laid flat, and in a relaxed condition. Measurement E shall be taken with the shirt unbuttoned. A. Chest - Twice the measurement taken across the front at base of armholes from folded edge to folded edge. B. Back length - Measurement shall be taken along center of back from neckline seam
37、 to bottom of shirt. C. Yoke width- Measurement shall be taken across the back along the base of the yoke from sleeve seam to sleeve seam. D. Sleeve length Measurement shall be taken from base of armhole (junction of seam) along inseam to bottom of sleeve. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduct
38、ion or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55297 7.2 identificationlinstruction label. The labels shall be bleached white. The printing shall be black and consist of suitable non-toxic dyes or pigments in a medium that yields a permanent impression. It shall not show off setting, s
39、mearing, bleeding, or discoloration. The combination label shall be legibly stamped or stitched on the outside of the left shirttail. The label shall be positioned with the left edge of printing 3 inches from the left front turned edge, and the top edge of printing not more than 5 inches from bottom
40、 hemmed edge. The contents of the labels shall be as follows: Label. Each shirt shall have a commercial size label and a combination Combination identificationllaundering label: Size label: Item description Contract number Fiber content Contractors name Applicable care instructions Size Stock number
41、 LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS Machine wash - warm water - no bleach or Tumble dry - medium heat - remove promptly Follow Shipboard Wash Formula II The size label shall be caught in stitching at center of neck undercollar joining seam. As an alternate, the size label can be stamped on the inside bottom ed
42、ge of top collar and centered I 1/2 inch. There shall be no evidence of the printing visible on outside of finished collar. NOTE: The use of a steam inflated bag type machine is prohibited for pressing. 3.4.1 Labelhag Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing i
43、tems. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth fiiish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable
44、 by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). The bar code type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item
45、. 7.2 Patterns. A set of standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except for additional notches u
46、sed during construction are allowed on the working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements. The standard patterns provide for a seam allowance of 3/8 in
47、ch for all joining seams and 1/4 inch for all other seams. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55297 4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in a
48、ccordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR). 5 QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 5.1 Product conformance. The product offered meets the salient characteristics of this commercial item description, conforms to the producers own drawings, specifications, standards and qualit
49、y assurance practices, and be a similar product that is offered for sale in the commercial market. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance. 5.2 Market acceptance criteria. The item offered, or a generic equivalent, must have been sold to the commercial market or to the Government. 5.3 Visual examination. Each shirt shall be examined for the defects listed in 5.3.1. 5.3.1 Defects. Any hole, cut, tear, broken or missing threads or sti
