1、AATCC Technical Manual/2007 TM 124-2006 201Developed in 1967 by AATCC Commit-tee RA61; revised 1969, 1975, 1982,1989 (with title change), 1992, 1996,2005, 2006; editorially revised 1974,1983, 1985, 1988, 1991, 1997, 2004;reaffirmed 1973; editorially revised andreaffirmed 1978, 1984, 2001. Techni-cal
2、ly equivalent to ISO 7768.1. Purpose and Scope1.1 This test method is designed toevaluate the smoothness appearance offlat fabric specimens after repeated homelaundering.1.2 Any washable fabric may be evalu-ated for smoothness appearance usingthis method.1.3 Fabrics of any construction, such aswoven
3、, knit and nonwoven, may be eval-uated according to this method.2. Principle2.1 Fabric specimens are subjected tostandard home laundering practices. Achoice of hand or machine washing withalternative machine wash cycles and tem-peratures, and alternative drying proce-dures being provided. Evaluation
4、 is per-formed using a standard lighting andviewing area by rating the appearance ofspecimens in comparison with appropri-ate reference standards.3. Terminology3.1 ballast, n.in procedures for pro-cessing or testing of textiles, material thatis used to bring the total weight or vol-ume of the textil
5、es to an amount specifiedin the procedure.3.2 durable press, adj.having theability to retain substantially the initialshape, flat seams, pressed-in creases andunwrinkled appearance during use andafter laundering or drycleaning.3.3 laundering, n.of textile mate-rials, a process intended to remove soi
6、lsand/or stains by treatment (washing) withan aqueous detergent solution and nor-mally including rinsing, extracting anddrying.3.4 laundering creases, n.sharpfolds or lines running in any direction in awashed or dried specimen.NOTE: Laundering creases are an un-intended result of restricted movement
7、 ofspecimens in a washer or the dryer.3.5 smoothness appearance, n.infabrics, the visual impression of planarityof a specimen quantified by comparisonwith a set of reference standards.4. Safety PrecautionsNOTE: These safety precautions arefor information purposes only. The pre-cautions are ancillary
8、 to the testing proce-dures and are not intended to be all inclu-sive. It is the users responsibility to usesafe and proper techniques in handlingmaterials in this test method. Manufac-turers MUST be consulted for specificdetails such as material safety data sheetsand other manufacturers recommenda-
9、tions. All OSHA standards and rulesmust also be consulted and followed.4.1 Good laboratory practices shouldbe followed. Wear safety glasses in alllaboratory areas.4.2 The 1993 AATCC Standard Refer-ence Detergent may cause irritation. Careshould be taken to prevent exposure toskin and eyes.4.3 All ch
10、emicals should be handledwith care.4.4 Manufacturers safety recommen-dations should be followed when operat-ing laboratory testing equipment.5. Uses and Limitations5.1 This test method is designed to beused only for evaluating the appearanceof washable fabrics after repeated homelaundering.5.2 The t
11、est procedure is designed toreflect the capabilities of home laundryequipment which is currently used byconsumers. In general, it is preferable toconduct the test under relatively severelaundering conditions.5.3 Prints and patterns may mask themussiness present in fabrics. The ratingprocess is, howe
12、ver, based on the visualappearance of specimens including sucheffects.5.4 The small specimen sizes used forfabric tests occasionally will cause wrin-kles or creases (dryer creases) to developwhich are not considered to be character-istic of fabric performance in use. Pre-cautions are given in the te
13、xt of themethod to reduce the occurrence of dryercreases.5.5 The interlaboratory reproducibilityof the results of this test method dependsupon mutual agreement by users of themethod on the washing and drying condi-tions as outlined in 8.1.6. Apparatus and Materials6.1 Automatic washing machine (see1
14、2.1).6.2 Automatic tumble dryer (see 12.1).6.3 Drip dry and line dry facilities.6.4 A 9.5 L (10.0 qt) pail.6.5 Detergents.6.5.1 1993 AATCC Standard Refer-ence Detergent, powder (see 12.2 and12.8).6.5.2 2003 Standard Reference Deter-gent, liquid (see 12.2).6.6 Ballast of 92 92 3 cm (36 36 1 in.) hemm
15、ed pieces of bleached cot-ton sheeting (Wash load ballast type 1) or50/50 polyester/cotton plain weave(Wash load ballast type 3) (see 12.3).6.7 Lighting and evaluation area in anotherwise darkened room using the over-head lighting arrangement shown in Fig.1 (see 12.4). It has been the experience ofm
16、any observers that light reflected fromthe side walls near the viewing board caninterfere with the rating results. It is rec-ommended that the side walls be paintedmatte black (85 gloss less than 5 units)or that blackout curtains be mounted onboth sides of the viewing board to elimi-nate the reflect
17、ive interference.6.8 Standard AATCC Three-Dimen-sional Smoothness Appearance Replicas,set of six (see Fig. 2 and 12.2).6.9 Steam or dry iron with appropriatefabric temperature settings.6.10 Detergent (for hand wash).6.11 Scale with at least 5 kg or 10 lbcapacity.7. Test Specimens7.1 Three representa
18、tive 38 38 cm(15 15 in.) fabric specimens cut parallelto the fabric length and width are pre-pared. Where possible, each specimenshould contain different groups of length-wise and widthwise yarns. The speci-mens should be marked to indicate thelengthwise direction. If fraying is ex-pected in launder
19、ing, see 12.5.8. Procedure8.1 Tables II, III and IV summarize thealternate washing and drying conditionsand settings. Additional information onthe machine and laundering conditionsmay be found in the monograph, Stan-dardization of Home Laundry Test Con-ditions, elsewhere in this TECHNICALMANUAL.8.1.
20、1 It is recognized that special cy-cles or features are available on currentwashing machines and dryers to achieveimproved performance on certain items;i.e., gentle cycles with reduced agitationto protect delicately constructed items,and durable press cycles, with cool-downAATCC Test Method 124-2006
21、Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home LaunderingCopyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Provided by IHS under license with AATCC Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-202 TM 124-2006 AATCC Technical Manual/2007or cold rins
22、es and reduced spin speeds, tominimize wrinkling. In evaluating ap-pearance retention, however, the more se-vere Normal or Cotton Sturdy machinecycle is considered most appropriate. Ifmodifications to any of the cycles (see8.2) are used, these must be reported inthe results (see Section 10).8.2 Stan
23、dard washing.8.2.1 Hand Wash(see 12.6). Dis-solve 20.0 0.1 g of 1993 AATCC Stan-dard Reference Detergent or 30.3 g of2003 AATCC Standard Reference LiquidDetergent in 7.57 0.06 L (2.00 0.02gal) of water at 41 3C (105 5F) in a9.5 L (10.0 qt) pail and then add the threefabric test specimens. Wash for 2
24、.0 0.1min with no twisting or wringing. Rinseonce using 7.57 0.06 L (2.00 0.02gal) of water at 41 3C (105 5F). Re-move the specimens and dry by Proce-dure C, Drip (see 8.3.3).8.2.2 Machine WashUse specifiedwater level, the selected water tempera-ture for the washing cycle and a rinsetemperature of l
25、ess than 29C (85F). Ifthis rinse temperature is not attainable,record available rinse temperature.8.2.3 Add 66 0.1 g of 1993 AATCCStandard Reference Detergent or 100 “0.1 g of 2003 AATCC Standard Refer-ence Liquid Detergent. In soft water areasthis may be reduced to avoid excessivesudsing, but in th
26、at case the amountshould be stated in the report of test re-sults.8.2.4 Add test specimens and enoughballast to make a 1.8 0.06 kg (4.00 0.13 lb) load. Set the washer for the se-lected washing cycle and time (see TablesII and III). Normal or Cotton Sturdy isrecommended. For very critical evalua-tion
27、s and in arbitration, limit the numberof specimens per washer load to thosefrom one sample.8.2.5 For specimens to be dried by Pro-cedures A, B or D, allow washing to pro-ceed automatically through the final spincycle. Remove the test specimens imme-diately after the final spin cycle, separatetangled
28、 pieces, taking care to minimizedistortion, and dry by Procedure A, B orD (see Tables II and IV).8.2.6 For specimens to be dried byProcedure C, Drip Dry, remove thespecimens from the washer just before thewater begins to drain for the final rinsecycle. Remove specimens soaking wet.8.2.7 Washer creas
29、es. Specimens maybe in a folded or creased state after wash-ing. Such folds or creases should be re-moved by hand prior to drying.8.3 Drying.8.3.1 (A) Tumble Dry. Place thewashed load (test specimens and ballast)in the tumble dryer and set the tempera-ture control to generate the correct ex-haust te
30、mperatures as specified in TableIV. For fibers that are heat sensitive,lower temperatures consistent with pro-ducers recommendations are required,and must be reported. Operate the dryeruntil the total load is dry. Remove theload immediately after the machine stops.Avoid overdrying. Static cling beco
31、mes aproblem with overdrying, particularlywith lightweight fabrics, because it pre-vents the specimens from tumbling freely.8.3.2 (B) Line Dry. Hang each fabricspecimen by two corners with the fabriclength in the vertical direction. Allowspecimens to hang in still air at roomtemperature until dry.8.
32、3.3 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each drippingwet fabric specimen by two corners withthe fabric length in the vertical direction.Allow specimens to hang in still air atroom temperature until dry.8.3.4 (D) Screen Dry. Spread eachspecimen on a horizontal screen or perfo-rated surface, removing wrinkles but notd
33、istorting or stretching the specimen. Al-low the specimen to dry in still air atroom temperature.8.3.5 Laundering creases. If speci-mens are folded or creased after any dry-ing cycle but the last, they should be re-wet and an attempt made to remove thecreases by ironing with a hand iron at atemperat
34、ure suitable for the fabric beingtested prior to the specimens being sub-jected to additional washing and dryingcycles. No attempt to remove wrinkles orcreases by hand ironing should be madeafter the final drying cycle.Fig. 1Lighting equipment for viewing test specimens.Materials list: (a) Two 8-ft
35、Type F96 CW (Cool White) preheat Rapid Start fluorescent lamps (without baffleor glass). (b) One white enamel reflector (without baffle or glass). (c) One general type swatch mount, springloaded. Fabricate using light sheet metal (22 ga.). (d) One 1/4 in. plywood mounting board painted to matchNo. 2
36、 gray chip on AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.Fig. 2AATCC 3-D smoothness appearance replicas.Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Provided by IHS under license with AATCC Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-AATCC Technical
37、Manual/2007 TM 124-2006 2038.4 Repeat the selected washing anddrying cycles four more times or to anagreed number of cycles.8.5 Prior to evaluation, preconditionand then condition test specimens as di-rected in ASTM D 1776, Standard Prac-tice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles(see 12.7). Conditio
38、n the test specimensfor a minimum of 4 h in the standard at-mosphere for textile testing 21 1C (70 2F) and 65 2% RH, hanging eachspecimen from two corners with the fab-ric length in vertical direction to avoiddistortion.9. Evaluation9.1 Three trained observers should rateeach test specimen independe
39、ntly.9.2 The overhead fluorescent lightshould be the only light source for theviewing board. All other lights in theroom should be turned off.9.3 The observer is to stand directly infront of the specimen 120 3 cm (4 ft 1in.) away from the board. It has beenfound that normal variations in the heighto
40、f the observer above and below the arbi-trary 1.5 m (5.0 ft) eye level have no sig-nificant effect on the grade given.9.4 Mount the test specimen on theviewing board as illustrated in Fig. 1,with the fabric length in the vertical di-rection. Place the most similar three-dimensional plastic replicas
41、on each sideof the test specimen to facilitate compara-tive rating.9.5 Although the 3-D Smoothness Ap-pearance (SA) replicas were cast fromwoven fabrics, it is understood that thesewrinkled surfaces do not duplicate allpossibilities of fabric surfaces. The repli-cas are to be used as guides which re
42、pre-sent various levels of fabric smoothnessor freedom from wrinkles. The observershould mentally integrate degree and fre-quency of wrinkles in the specimen to de-termine a level of smoothness that can beidentified with the SA replica numberwhich most nearly represents thatsmoothness appearance lev
43、el; see TableV.9.6 Assign the numerical grade of thereplica which most nearly matches thesmoothness appearance of the test speci-men, or assign a grade midway betweenthose whole-number standards whichhave no half-number standards separatingthem (SA-1.5, SA-2.5, SA-4.5) if the ap-pearance of the test
44、 specimen warrants it.9.7 An SA-5 grade is equivalent to theSA-5 replica and represents the smooth-est appearance, while an SA-1 replicarepresents very poor appearance.9.8 If laundering creases are present onany specimens to be evaluated, take carein rating the specimens. Some launderingcreases can
45、be disregarded (commonlycalled “reading out”). When the grade ofa laundering creased specimen differsfrom the other specimens by more thanone grade, the test should be repeatedwith new specimens, taking all precau-tions to avoid the occurrence of dryercreases.10. Report10.1 Average the nine observat
46、ionsmade on each test fabric (three grades oneach of three test specimens). Report theaverage to the nearest tenth of a grade.This average is the unit of measure of thistest method.10.2 State washing procedure (Arabicnumber and Roman numeral) and dryingprocedure (capital letter and subscript)from Ta
47、ble II, detergent used (powder orliquid), as well as type of wash load bal-last (Arabic number). Any deviationsfrom stated procedures, such as use of amodified wash cycle, a reduced amountof detergent or a higher than usual loadTable IWash Load Ballast: Finished Fabric SpecificationFiber ContentWash
48、 Load BallastType 1100% CottonWash Load BallastType 350/50 3% poly/cottonYarns 16/1 ring spun 30/2 ring spunFabric Construction 52 ( 2) 48 ( 2) 48 ( 2) 48 ( 2)Fabric Weight 155 5 g/m2(4.55 0.15 oz/yd2)155 5 g/m2(4.55 0.15 oz/yd2)Piece Size 92.0 92.0 3 cm(36.0 36.0 1 in.)92.0 92.0 3 cm(36.0 36.0 1 in
49、.)Piece Weight 130 10 g 130 10 gTable IIAlternative Washing and Drying Conditions (see 8.1)Machine Cycle Wash Temperatures Drying ProceduresHand, in pail (III) 41 3C (105 5F) (A) Tumble:(1) Normal/Cotton Sturdy (IV) 49 3C (120 5F) i. iiCotton Sturdyii. iDelicate(V) 60 3C (140 5F) iii. Permanent Press(2) Delicate (B) Line(3) Permanent Press (C) Drip(D) ScreenTable IIIWashing Machine Conditions (see 8.1)Normal/Co
