1、 AATCC takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentioned in this test method. Users of this test method are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the risk of infringement of such rights, are ent
2、irely their own responsibility. This test method is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years and if not revised, either reaffirmed or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this test method or for additional met
3、hods and should be addressed to the AATCC Technical Center. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of the responsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing, you should make your views known to Christopher S.
4、Leonard, Technical Director, at the address shown below. This test method is copyrighted by AATCC, PO Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709 USA. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this method may be obtained by contacting AATCC at the above address or tel: 919-549-3526; fax: 91
5、9-549-8933, or e-mail: ordersaatcc.org. AATCC License Agreement: This test method is copyrighted by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), PO Box 12215, 1 Davis Drive, Research Triangle Park, NC USA. All rights reserved. AATCC grants you a license as follows: The right t
6、o download an electronic file of this AATCC test method for temporary storage on one computer for purposes of viewing, and/or printing one copy of the AATCC test method for individual use. Neither the electronic file nor the hard copy print may be reproduced in any way. In addition, the electronic f
7、ile may not be distributed elsewhere over computer networks or otherwise. The hard copy print may only be distributed to other employees for their internal use within your organization. This test method is not for resale. Copyright 2007 American Association of Textile Chemists and ColoristsCopyright
8、 The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Provided by IHS under license with AATCC Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-AATCC Technical Manual/2008 TM 20A-2007 57Developed in 1957 by AATCC CommitteeRA24; revised 1958, 1959, 1975, 1995,2
9、000, 2004, 2005, 2007; reaffirmed1971, 1978, 1981, 1989; editorially re-vised 1980, 1982 (new title), 1985, 2002.Related to ISO 17751 and IWTO 58.1. Purpose and Scope1.1 This method presents individualprocedures for the quantitative determi-nation of moisture content, nonfibrouscontent and fiber com
10、position of textiles.1.2 The procedures for the determina-tion of fiber composition include me-chanical, chemical and microscopicalmethods. They are applicable to blends ofthe following generic classes:Natural Fibers Man-Made FibersCotton AcetateHair AcrylicHemp ModacrylicLinen Nylon (see 17.1)Ramie
11、 OlefinSilk PolyesterWool RayonSpandex2. Uses and Limitations2.1 The procedure given for the re-moval of nonfibrous materials will re-move most, but not all, of these compo-nents. Each treatment is applicable onlyto certain categories of these substancesand no general scheme can be given thatis all
12、inclusive. Some of the newer fin-ishes may present special problems andthe analyst will have to deal with thesecases as they arise. Thermosetting resinsand crosslinking latices are not only diffi-cult to remove but in some cases cannotbe wholly removed without destroyingthe fiber. When it is necessa
13、ry to modifya procedure, or use a new one, one shouldmake sure that the fibrous portion of thespecimen under test is not attacked. Fibercomposition is generally expressed eitheron the oven-dry weight of the textile asreceived or on the oven-dry weight of theclean fiber after nonfibrous materials are
14、first removed from the textile before thefiber analysis is carried out, or if the treat-ments described in Section 9 are incapa-ble of removing them, any such materialspresent will increase the percentage ofthe fiber constituent with which they areremoved during the analysis.2.2 The procedure for de
15、termining fi-ber composition by mechanical separa-tion is applicable to those textileswherein the different fibers making up itscomposition are segregated in separateyarns, or plies, in the textile product.2.3 The chemical procedures for fibercomposition described herein are applica-ble to most of t
16、he current, commercialproduction fibers within each genericclass listed. Known exceptions are notedin Table II. However, there may be in-stances in which a method may not befully adequate for a newly developed fi-ber falling within one of the listed genericclasses and for re-used and/or physicallyor
17、 chemically modified fibers. Cautionshould be exercised when applying thesemethods to such cases.2.4 The microscopical procedures for fi-ber composition are applicable to all fibersand their accuracy depends to a consider-able extent upon the ability of the analystto identify the individual fibers p
18、resent.However, owing to the tedious nature ofthis technique, its use is generally limitedto those mixtures which cannot be sepa-rated mechanically or chemically; e.g.,mixtures of hair and wool and mixtures ofcotton, linen, hemp and/or ramie.3. Terminology3.1 clean-fiber content, n.the amountof fibe
19、r after removal of nonfibrouscontent.3.2 fiber, n.in textiles, a generic termfor any one of the various types of matterthat form the basic elements of a textileand which are generally characterized byflexibility, fineness and high ratio oflength to thickness.3.3 moisture content, n.that part ofthe t
20、otal mass of a material that is ab-sorbed or adsorbed water, compared tothe total mass.3.4 nonfibrous content, n.productssuch as fiber finishes, yarn lubricants,slasher sizing, fabric softeners, starches,china-clay, soaps, waxes, oils and resinswhich are applied to fiber, yarn, fabric orapparel.3.5
21、Additional terms used in this testmethod can be found in standard chemi-cal dictionaries, in dictionaries of com-mon terms or in A Glossary of AATCCStandard Terminology (located elsewherein this TECHNICAL MANUAL).4. Safety PrecautionsNOTE: These safety precautions arefor information purposes only. T
22、he pre-cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-dures and are not intended to be all inclu-sive. It is the users responsibility to usesafe and proper techniques in handlingmaterials in this test method. Manufac-turers MUST be consulted for specificdetails such as material safety data sheetsand ot
23、her manufacturers recommenda-tions. All OSHA standards and rulesmust also be consulted and followed.4.1 Good laboratory practices shouldbe followed. Wear safety glasses in alllaboratory areas.4.2 All chemicals should be handledwith care.4.3 Perform the soxhlet extractions inSection 9, Nonfibrous Mat
24、erialCleanFiber Content, using Fluorocarbon 113(such as Freon TF) or hydrochlorofluoro-carbon (such as Genesolv 2000) and ethylalcohol inside an adequately ventilatedlaboratory hood. CAUTION: Ethyl alco-hol is highly flammable.4.4 Perform Chemical Analysis Proce-dure No. 1 (Table II, 100% acetone) i
25、n-side a ventilated laboratory hood. CAU-TION: Acetone is highly flammable.4.5 Ethyl alcohol and acetone are flam-mable liquids and should be stored in thelaboratory only in small containers awayfrom heat, open flame and sparks.4.6 In preparing, dispensing, and han-dling hydrochloric acid (20%), sul
26、furicacids (59.5% and 70%), and formic acid(90%) used in Chemical Analysis Proce-dure Methods No. 2, 3, 4, and 6 (TableII), use chemical goggles or face shield,impervious gloves and an imperviousapron. Concentrated acids should be han-dled only in an adequately ventilated lab-oratory hood. CAUTION:
27、Always addacid to water.4.7 In preparing ammonium hydroxide(8:92) for use in Chemical Analysis Pro-cedure Method No. 4 (Table II, 70% sul-furic acid), use chemical goggles or faceshield, impervious gloves and an imper-vious apron. Dispense, mix and handleammonium hydroxide only in an ade-quately ven
28、tilated laboratory hood.4.8 An eyewash/safety shower shouldbe located nearby and a self-containedbreathing apparatus should be readilyavailable for emergency use.4.9 Exposure to chemicals used in thisprocedure must be controlled at or belowlevels set by governmental authorities(e.g., Occupational Sa
29、fety and HealthAdministrations OSHA permissibleexposure limits PEL as found in 29CFR 1910.1000 of January 1, 1989). Inaddition, the American Conference ofGovernmental Industrial Hygienists (AC-GIH) Threshold Limit Values (TLVs)comprised of time weighted averages(TLV-TWA), short term exposure limits(
30、TLV-STEL) and ceiling limits (TLV-C)AATCC Test Method 20A-2007Fiber Analysis: QuantitativeCopyright 2007 American Association of Textile Chemists and ColoristsCopyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Provided by IHS under license with AATCC Not for ResaleNo reproduction o
31、r networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-58 TM 20A-2007 AATCC Technical Manual/2008are recommended as a general guide forair contaminant exposure which shouldbe met (see 17.17).5. Apparatus5.1 Analytical balance, capable ofweighing to 0.1 mg.5.2 Oven, maintained at 105-110C.5.3 Desiccator
32、, containing anhydroussilica gel, calcium sulfate (such as Drie-ite) or its equivalent.5.4 Soxhlet extractor, 200 mL capacity.5.5 Constant temperature bath, adjust-able, capable of controlling temperatureto 1C.5.6 Weighing bottle, 100 mL capacity,glass, with ground glass cover. (Alter-nate: aluminum
33、 weighing can; same size,tight cover.)5.7 Erlenmeyer flask, 250 mL capacity,ground glass stopper.5.8 Beaker, borosilicate heat resistantglass, 250 mL capacity.5.9 Filtering crucible, fritted glass,coarse porosity, 30 mL.5.10 Suction flask, with adapter, tohold filtering crucible.5.11 Weighing bottle
34、, large enough tohold filtering crucible.5.12 Microscope, equipped with amoveable stage and a cross-hair ocular,200-250X magnification.5.13 Projection microscope, capable of500X magnification (see 17.12).5.14 Fiber cutter: A device comprisedof two razor blades, a threaded pin andan assemblage that w
35、ill hold the bladesrigidly in position. The device is operatedby applying pressure vertically down-ward. It cuts fibers approximately 250 min length (see 17.3).5.15 Wedge scale: Strips of heavy pa-per or Bristol board imprinted with awedge for use at 500X magnification (see17.4).6. Reagents6.1 Ethyl
36、 alcohol (95%), pure or dena-tured.6.2 Fluorocarbon 113 (such as FreonTF) or hydrochlorofluorocarbon (such asGenesolve 2000).6.3 Hydrochloric acid (HCl), 0.1N.6.4 Enzyme solubilizing preparation.6.5 Acetone (CH3COCH3), reagentgrade.6.6 Hydrochloric acid (HCl) (20%).Dilute HCl, sp gr 1.19, with water
37、 untilthe specific gravity of the solution is 1.10at 20C.6.7 Sulfuric acid (H2SO4) (59.5%).Add H2SO4, sp gr 1.84, slowly to water.After the solution has cooled to 20C, ad-just the density to a value between 1.4902and 1.4956 g/mL.6.8 Sulfuric acid (H2SO4) (70%). AddH2SO4, sp gr 1.84, slowly to water.
38、 Afterthe solution has cooled to 20 1C, ad-just the density to a value between 1.5989and 1.6221 g/mL (see 17.18).6.9 Sulfuric acid (H2SO4) (1:19).Slowly stir 1 volume of H2SO4, sp gr1.84, into 19 volumes of water.6.10 Sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl).Prepare a solution of NaOCl, 5.25%available chlorine.
39、Sodium hypochloritebased household bleach (nominally5.25%) has been found to be acceptable.6.11 Sodium bisulfite (NaHSO3) (1%).Freshly prepared.6.12 Formic acid (HCOOH) (90%), spgr of 1.202 at 20C.6.13 Ammonium hydroxide (NH4OH)(8:92). Mix 8 volumes of NH4OH, sp gr0.90, with 92 volumes of water.6.14
40、 Herzberg stain. Add the previ-ously prepared solution A to solution B;allow to stand overnight; decant the clearliquid into a dark colored glass bottle andadd a leaf of iodine.Solution A Solution BZinc Chloride 50 g PotassiumIodide 5.5 gWater 25 mL Iodine 0.25 gWater 12.5 mL7. Sampling7.1 It is not
41、 possible to give specific in-structions for taking a laboratory testsample from all types of textile materialsto which these methods may be applica-ble; but a few general recommendationswill be given.7.1.1 The sample should be as repre-sentative as possible of the lot of materialfrom which it was t
42、aken.7.1.2 If a reasonably large lot is avail-able, and if it is possible to do so, sam-plings should be taken from different,widely separated areas or parts of the lot.7.1.3 In the case of fabrics where thereis a definite repetition in the pattern, thesample should include all yarns in a com-plete
43、pattern (see 17.6).7.1.4 In the case of yarns, not less thana 2-meter length should be taken.Test Methods8. Moisture Content8.1 Procedure. Place not less than 1 gof the textile to be tested in a previouslytared weighing bottle and immediatelyreplace the cover. Weigh to the nearest0.1 mg using the an
44、alytical balance andrecord the weight. Place the uncoveredweighing bottle containing the specimenin an oven maintained at 105-110C for1.5 h. At the end of the time period, re-move the bottle from the oven, immedi-ately replace the cover and put it in thedesiccator. When the bottle and contentshave c
45、ooled to room temperature, removethem from the desiccator and reweigh.Repeat the heating and reweighing pro-cess for periods of 30 min until theweight is constant to within 0.001 g andrecord the constant weight.8.2 Calculations.8.2.1 Calculate the moisture content ofthe specimen as follows:where:M =
46、 moisture content, percent.A = weight of sample before drying +bottle.B = weight of sample after drying +bottle.T = tare weight of weighing bottle.9. Nonfibrous MaterialClean Fiber Content9.1 Procedure. Take a specimen of notless than 5 g, dry it to constant weight inan oven at 105-110C (see 8.1), r
47、ecordthe oven-dry weight to the nearest 0.1 mgusing an analytical balance and then sub-ject it to one, or more, of the followingtreatments, as appropriate. When specifictype of nonfibrous content is known, onlythat specific treatment, or treatments,need be performed; otherwise, all treat-ments must
48、be applied.9.1.1 Hydrochlorofluorocarbon Treat-ment (for removal of oils, fats, waxes,certain thermoplastic resins, etc.). Extractthe dried specimen with hydrochlorofluo-rocarbon in a soxhlet extractor, siphoningover a minimum of six times. Air dry,and then dry at 105-110C to constantweight. For an
49、alternative to soxhlet ex-tractor, see 17.19.9.1.2 Alcohol Treatment (for removalof soaps, cationic finishes, etc.). Extractthe dried specimen with ethyl alcohol in asoxhlet extractor, siphoning over a mini-mum of six times. Air dry, and then dry at105-110C to constant weight. For an al-ternative to soxhlet extractor, see 17.19.9.1.3 Aqueous Treatment (for removalof water soluble materials). Immerse thedried specimen for 30 min in water at50C using a 100:1 liquid to fabric ratio.Stir occasionally or u
