1、114 TM 88C-2006 AATCC Technical Manual/2007Developed in 1963 by AATCC Commit-tee RA61; revised 1975, 1979, 1987,1989 (with title change), 1992, 1996,2003, 2006; reaffirmed 1969, 1973; edi-torially revised 1974, 1985, 1986, 1991,1997, 2004, 2005; editorially revisedand reaffirmed 1984 (new title), 20
2、01.Technically equivalent to ISO 7769.1. Purpose and Scope1.1 This test method is designed toevaluate the retention of pressed-increases in fabrics after repeated homelaundering.1.2 Any washable fabric may be evalu-ated for crease retention using thismethod.1.3 Fabrics of any construction, such aswo
3、ven, knit and nonwoven, may be eval-uated according to this method.1.4 Techniques for creasing are notoutlined, since the purpose is to evaluatefabrics as they will be supplied frommanufacturing or as ready for use. Fur-thermore, creasing techniques would becontrolled by fabric properties.2. Princip
4、le2.1 Creased fabric specimens are sub-jected to standard home laundering prac-tices. A choice is provided of hand or ma-chine washing, alternative machine washcycles and temperatures and alternativedrying procedures. Evaluation is per-formed using a standard lighting andviewing area by rating the a
5、ppearance ofspecimens in comparison with appropri-ate reference standards.3. Terminology3.1 ballast, n.in procedures for pro-cessing or testing of textiles, material thatis used to bring the total weight or vol-ume of the textiles to an amount specifiedin the procedure.3.2 crease retention, n.in fab
6、rics,the visual impression of an insertedcrease quantified by comparison with aset of reference standards.3.3 durable press, adj.having theability to retain substantially the initialshape, flat seams, pressed-in creases andunwrinkled appearance during use andafter laundering or drycleaning.3.4 laund
7、ering, n.of textile materi-als, a process intended to remove soilsand/or stains by treatment (washing) withan aqueous detergent solution and nor-mally including rinsing, extracting anddrying.3.5 laundering creases, n.sharpfolds or lines running in any direction in awashed or dried specimen.NOTE: Lau
8、ndering creases are an un-intended result of restricted movement ofspecimens in the washer or the dryer.4. Safety PrecautionsNOTE: These safety precautions arefor information purposes only. The pre-cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-dures and are not intended to be all inclu-sive. It is the
9、 users responsibility to usesafe and proper techniques in handlingmaterials in this test method. Manufac-turers MUST be consulted for specificdetails such as material safety data sheetsand other manufacturers recommenda-tions. All OSHA standards and rulesmust also be consulted and followed.4.1 Good
10、laboratory practices shouldbe followed. Wear safety glasses in alllaboratory areas.4.2 The 1993 AATCC Standard Refer-ence Detergent and the 2003 AATCCStandard Reference Liquid Detergentmay cause irritation. Care should betaken to prevent exposure to skin andeyes.4.3 All chemicals should be handledwi
11、th care.4.4 Manufacturers safety recommen-dations should be followed when operat-ing laboratory testing equipment.4.5 When evaluating crease retention,use of a lamp with a shield can aid in pre-vention of burns that could result fromlamp heat.5. Uses and Limitations5.1 This test method is designed t
12、o beused only for evaluating the appearanceof washable creased fabrics after repeatedhome laundering.5.2 The test procedure is designed toreflect the capabilities of home laundryequipment which is currently used byconsumers. In general, it is preferable toconduct the test under relatively severelaun
13、dering conditions.5.3 Prints and patterns may mask theappearance of a crease. The rating pro-cess is, however, based on the visual ap-pearance of specimens including such ef-fects.5.4 The small specimen sizes used forfabric tests occasionally will cause wrin-kles or creases (dryer creases) to develo
14、pwhich are not considered to be character-istic of fabric performance in use. Pre-cautions are given in the text of themethod to reduce the occurrence of dryercreases.5.5 The interlaboratory reproducibilityof the results of this test method dependsupon mutual agreement by users of themethod on the w
15、ashing and drying condi-tions as outlined in 8.1.6. Apparatus and Materials6.1 Automatic washing machine (see12.1).6.2 Automatic tumble dryer (see 12.1).6.3 Drip dry and line dry facilities.6.4 A 9.5 L (10.0 qt) pail.6.5 1993 AATCC Standard ReferenceDetergent or 2003 AATCC Standard Ref-erence Liquid
16、 Detergent (see 12.2 and12.8).6.6 Ballast of 92 92 3 cm (36 36 1 in.) hemmed pieces of bleached cot-ton sheeting (Wash load ballast type 1) or50/50 polyester/cotton plain weave(Wash load ballast type 3) (see 12.3).6.7 Lighting and evaluation area in anotherwise darkened room using the over-head ligh
17、ting arrangement shown in Fig.1 (see 12.4). It has been the experience ofmany observers that light reflected fromthe side walls near the viewing board caninterfere with the rating results. It is rec-ommended that the side walls be paintedmatte black (85 gloss less than 5 units)or that blackout curta
18、ins be mounted onboth sides of the viewing board to elimi-nate the reflective interference.6.8 A 500-watt DXC (RFL-2) floodlamp with reflector and light shield, posi-tioned as shown in Fig. 2, for evaluatingcrease retention.6.9 Standard AATCC Three-Dimen-sional Crease Replicas, set of five (seeFig.
19、3 and 12.2).6.10 Steam or dry iron with appropri-ate fabric temperature settings.6.11 Detergent (for hand wash).6.12 Scale with at least 5 kg or 10 lbcapacity.7. Test Specimens7.1 Three representative 38 38 cm(15 15 in.) fabric specimens cut parallelto the fabric length and width are pre-pared. Wher
20、e possible, each specimenshould contain different groups of length-wise and widthwise yarns. The speci-mens should be marked to indicate thelengthwise direction. If fraying is ex-pected in laundering, see 12.5.7.1.1 The specimens are prepared witha pressed-in crease through the middle inthe fabric l
21、ength direction. If the fabric isAATCC Test Method 88C-2006Retention of Creases in Fabrics after Repeated Home LaunderingCopyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Provided by IHS under license with AATCC Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license
22、 from IHS-,-,-AATCC Technical Manual/2007 TM 88C-2006 115wrinkled, it may be smoothed by appro-priate ironing prior to laundering (seeSafe Ironing Temperature Guide inASTM D 2724, Standard Test Methodsfor Bonded, Fused and Laminated Ap-parel Fabrics, and 12.6). Care should betaken to avoid altering
23、quality of thecrease itself.8. Procedure8.1 Tables II, III and IV summarize thealternate washing and drying conditionsand settings. Additional information onthe machine and laundering conditionsmay be found in the monograph, Stan-dardization of Home Laundry Test Con-ditions, elsewhere in this TECHNI
24、CALMANUAL.8.1.1 It is recognized that special cy-cles or features are available on currentwashing machines and dryers to achieveimproved performance on certain items;i.e., gentle cycles with reduced agitationto protect delicately constructed items,and durable press cycles, with cool-downor cold rins
25、es and reduced spin speeds, tominimize wrinkling. In evaluating creaseretention, however, the more severe Nor-mal or Cotton Sturdy machine cycle isconsidered most appropriate. If modifica-tions to any of the cycles (see 8.2) areused, these must be reported in the results(see Section 10).8.2 Standard
26、 washing.8.2.1 Hand Wash(see 12.7). Dis-solve 20.0 0.1 g of 1993 AATCC Stan-dard Reference Detergent or 30.3 0.1 gof 2003 AATCC Standard Reference Liq-uid Detergent in 7.57 0.06 L (2.00 0.02 gal) of water at 41 3C (105 5F)in a 9.5 L (10.0 qt) pail and then add thethree fabric test specimens. Wash fo
27、r 2.0 0.1 min with no twisting or wringing.Rinse once using 7.57 0.06 L (2.00 0.02 gal) of water at 41 3C (105 5F). Remove the specimens and dry byProcedure C, Drip (see 8.3.3).8.2.2 Machine WashUse specifiedwater level, the selected water tempera-ture for the washing cycle and a rinsetemperature of
28、 less than 29C (85F). Ifthis rinse temperature is not attainable,record available rinse temperature.8.2.3 Add 66 0.1 g of 1993 AATCCStandard Reference Detergent or 100 0.1 g of 2003 AATCC Standard Refer-ence Liquid Detergent. In soft water areasthis may be reduced to avoid excessivesudsing, but in t
29、hat case the amountshould be stated in the report of testresults.8.2.4 Add test specimens and enoughballast to make a 1.8 0.06 kg (4.00 0.13 lb) load. Set the washer for the se-lected washing cycle and time (see TablesII and III). Normal or Cotton Sturdy isrecommended. For very critical evalua-tion
30、and in arbitration, limit the numberof specimens per washer load to thosefrom one sample.8.2.5 For specimens to be dried by Pro-cedures A, B or D, allow washing to pro-ceed automatically through the final spincycle. Remove the test specimens imme-diately after the final spin cycle, separatetangled p
31、ieces, taking care to minimizedistortion, and dry by Procedure A, B orD (see Tables II and IV).8.2.6 For specimens to be dried by Pro-cedure C, Drip Dry, remove the speci-Fig. 1Lighting equipment for viewing test specimens.Materials list: (a) Two 8-ft Type F96 CW (Cool White) preheat Rapid Start flu
32、orescent lamps (without baffleor glass), (b) One white enamel reflector (without baffle or glass), (c) One general type swatch mount, springloaded. Fabricate using light sheet metal (22 ga), (d) One in. plywood mounting board painted to matchNo. 2 gray chip on AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.Fig. 2Lig
33、hting and viewing arrangement for crease retention. Fig. 3AATCC crease retention replicas.Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Provided by IHS under license with AATCC Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-116 TM 88C-2006 A
34、ATCC Technical Manual/2007mens from the washer just before thewater begins to drain for the final rinsecycle. Remove specimens soaking wet.8.2.7 Washer creases. Specimens maybe in a folded or creased state after wash-ing. Such folds or creases should be re-moved by hand prior to drying.8.3 Drying.8.
35、3.1 (A) Tumble Dry. Place thewashed load (test specimens and ballast)in the tumble dryer and set the tempera-ture control to generate the correct ex-haust temperatures specified in Table IV.For fibers that are heat sensitive, lowertemperatures consistent with producersrecommendations are required, a
36、nd mustbe reported. Operate the dryer until thetotal load is dry. Remove the load imme-diately after the machine stops. Avoidoverdrying. Static cling becomes a prob-lem with overdrying, particularly withlightweight fabrics, because it preventsthe specimens from tumbling freely.8.3.2 (B) Line Dry. Ha
37、ng each fabricspecimen by two corners with the fabriclength in the vertical direction. Allowspecimens to hang in still air at roomtemperature until dry.8.3.3 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each drippingwet fabric specimen by two corners withthe fabric length in the vertical direction.Allow specimens to hang in
38、still air atroom temperature until dry.8.3.4 (D) Screen Dry. Spread eachspecimen on a horizontal screen or perfo-rated surface, removing wrinkles but notdistorting or stretching the specimen. Al-low the specimens to dry in still air atroom temperature.8.3.5 Laundering creases. If speci-mens are fold
39、ed or creased after any dry-ing cycle but the last, they should be re-wet and an attempt made to remove thecreases by ironing with a hand iron at atemperature suitable for the fabric sub-jected to additional washing and dryingcycles. No attempt to remove wrinkles orcreases by hand ironing should be
40、madeafter the final drying cycle.8.4 Repeat the selected washing anddrying cycles four more times or to anagreed number of cycles.8.5 Prior to evaluation, preconditionand then condition test specimens as di-rected in ASTM D 1776, Standard Prac-tice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles(see 12.6). Co
41、ndition the test specimensfor a minimum of 4 h in the standard at-mosphere for textile testing 21 1C (70 2F) and 65 2% RH, hanging eachspecimen from two corners with the fab-ric length in vertical direction to avoiddistortion.9. Evaluation9.1 Three trained observers should rateeach test specimen ind
42、ependently.9.2 The overhead fluorescent light andthe flood lamp with reflector and lightshield, positioned as shown in Fig. 2,should be the only light sources for theviewing board. All other lights in theroom should be turned off.9.3 The observer is to stand directly infront of the specimen 120 3 cm
43、 (4 ft 1in.) away from the board. It has beenfound that normal variations in the heightof the observer above and below the arbi-trary 1.5 m (5.0 ft) eye level have no sig-nificant effect on the grade given.9.4 Mount the test specimen on theviewing board with the crease in the ver-tical direction. Pl
44、ace the most similarthree-dimensional plastic crease replicas(CR) on each side of the test specimen tofacilitate comparative rating. Mount rep-licas 1, 3 and 5 on the left and 2 and 4 onthe right.9.5 Confine observations to the creaseitself and disregard the appearance of thefabric.9.6 Assign the nu
45、merical grade of thereplica which most nearly matches the ap-pearance of the crease in the test specimen.9.7 A crease retention grade of CR-5 isequivalent to the appearance of StandardNo. 5, the best level of crease appear-ance; a crease retention grade of CR-1 isequivalent to that of Standard No. 1
46、,which represents a very poor level ofcrease appearance.10. Report10.1 Crease retention in fabric.10.1.1 Average the nine observationsmade on each test fabric (three grades oneach of three test specimens). Report theaverage to the nearest tenth of a grade.This average is the unit of measure of thist
47、est method.10.2 State washing procedure (Arabicnumber and Roman numeral) and dryingprocedure (capital letter and subscript)from Table II, the detergent used (powderor liquid), as well as type of wash loadballast (Arabic number). Any deviationsfrom stated procedures, such as use of amodified wash cyc
48、le, a reduced amount ofdetergent or a higher than usual load limit,should be explained completely.10.2.1 For example, crease retentiongrade CR-3.8 (1-IV-A(i)-3) denotes aTable IWash Load Ballast: Finished Fabric SpecificationFiber ContentWash Load BallastType 1100% CottonWash Load BallastType 350/50
49、 3% poly/cottonYarns 16/1 ring spun 30/2 ring spunFabric Construction 52 ( 2) 48 ( 2) 48 ( 2) 48 ( 2)Fabric Weight 155 5 g/m2(4.55 0.15 oz/yd2)155 5 g/m2(4.55 0.15 oz/yd2)Piece Size 92.0 92.0 3 cm(36.0 36.0 1 in.)92.0 92.0 3 cm(36.0 36.0 1 in.)Piece Weight 130 10 g 130 10 gTable IIAlternative Washing and Drying Conditions (see 8.1)Machine Cycle Wash Temperatures Drying ProceduresHand, in pail (III) 41 3C (105 5F) (A) Tumb
