1、.- -* . MIL-(2-87 1 65 ( USAF 29 August 1983 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: ASD/ENES, Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improve
2、ment Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. MILITARY SPECIFICATION COLLAR, JACKET, DETACHABLE CWU-63/P This specification is approved for use by the Department Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. of the Air Force, and is available for use by al
3、l 1. SCOPE 1. ScoDe. This specification covers one type of detachable collar. *. 1.2 Sizes-: as specified (see 6.2): - The collar shall be furnished in one of the following sizes 30 32 34 3.6 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents 2.1.1 SDecifications and standards. Un
4、less otherwise specified, the following specifications and standards of the issue listed in that issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) specified in the solicitation, form a part of this specification to the extent specified. SPECIFICATION8 FEDERAL A-A-203
5、Paper, Kraft, Untreated V-T-280 Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole TI- T- 28 5 Thread, Polyester DDD-L-20 Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) PPP-B-63 6 Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard MILITARY MIL-C-6590 Cloth, Pile (Synthetic Mouton , Knitted) MIL-F-10884 Fasteners, Snap MIL-C-8345
6、3 Cloth, Twill, Nylon Warp, Rayon Filling FSC 8315 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-(2-87165 (USAF) STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings MILITARY MIL-STD-105 Sampling Proced
7、ures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes MIL-STD-I29 Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-1188 Commercial Packaging of Supplies and Equipment MS27980 Fasteners, Snap, Style 2 (Regular Wire Spring Clamp Type) (Copies of Specifications , standards, drawings, and publications required by manufa
8、cturers in connection with specific acquisition functions should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting officer.) 2.2 Other Dublications.: The following documents form a part of this speci- fication to the extent specified herein. indicated as DoD adopted shall b
9、e the issue listed in the current DoDISS and the supplement thereto, if applicable. The issues of the documents which are THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES. INC. Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 (Copies of these publicat
10、ions can be obtained from The Color Association of the United States, Inc.; 24 East 38th St., New York, NY 10016.) 2.3 Order of DreCedenCe. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. 3. REQU
11、IREMENTS 3.1 Materials 3.1.1 Basic fabric, to type II of MIL-C-83453 and shall be USAF color shade No. 1157 (see 6.3). The basic fabric for the detachable collar shall conform 3.1.2 Thread. Unless otherwise specified herein, the thread for all sewing shall be DoD thread shade Black AA, Cable No. 660
12、43 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968) and shall conform to type I, class 1, letter size B, 3 ply of V-T-285. 3.1.3 GimD. or II, No. 8 of V-T-280 and shall be black. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall conform to type I 3.1.4 Snar,. The sn
13、ap fasteners for attaching the collar shall conform to style 2, finish 2 of MIL-F-10884 and shall consist of the following components: MS27980-7B (stud), MS27980-8B (eyelet), MS27980-1B (button), and and MS27980-6B (socket 1 . 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted wi
14、thout license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-871b5 3 977770b OqLL497 9 MIL-C-87 165 (USAF) 3.1.5 Knitted svnthetic mouton. The knitted synthetic mouton for the collar shall conform to type I of MIL-C-6590 except that the color shall be USAF color Shade No. 1157 (see 6.3). e 3.2 Desian. The detachable collar sha
15、ll have a topcollar that is made of knitted synthetic mouton and shall be attached by means of buttonholes, buttons and snap fasteners. 3.3 Construction. -The detachable collar shall be constructed in accordance with table I. required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein. Unl
16、ess otherwise specified herein, the manufacturer will not be 3.3.1 Stitches, seams. and stitchinas. Stitches, seams, and stitchings specified in-table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. Wherever two or more methods, seams, or stitches are specified for the same operation, any one of them may be used. A
17、ll seams shall start and finish evenly. Seam allowances shall be maintained so thatraw edges, run-Offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open sams will not resulb. will not be tight or loose-. shall be onthe inside of the detachable collar. 3.3.1.1 Thread breakS.and ends of seams and stitchinas. Thread b
18、reaks of all stitch types shall be secured by stitching back of each end not less than 1/2 inch. using stitch type 301. Ends of all seams and stitchings produced with stitch type 301, except for ends of seams and stitchings caught in other seams or stitchings and ends of continuous line of stitching
19、, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching, except on labels, shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of stitchings on labels shall be overlapped not less than three stitches. 3.3.1.2 Sewina tolerances. Unless otherwise specified herein, a t
20、olerance of 22 stitches per inch will be permitted for stitches per inch. A tolerance of 3/16 inch will be permitted for 1/4-inch gage and 5/16-inch gage stitching. A tolerance of +O or -1/8 inch will be permitted for 3/8-inch gage stitching. A tolerance of +O or -1/16 inch will be permitted for rai
21、se seam l/r(-inch gage. A tolerance of +l/32 or -0 inch will be permitted for stitching 1/16 inch from the edge. Thread tension shall be maintained so that tension The looper thread (under thread) of stitch 401 Skipped stitches or thread breaks of stitch type 401 maybe repaired 3.4 Patterns. When sp
22、ecified (see 6.2), standard patterns will be furnished by the Government. cut the working patterns. shape to the standard patterns. shall not be altered in any way. The standard patterns shall be used by the manufacturer to The working patterns shall be identical in size and The standard patterns an
23、d the working patterns 3.4.1 Pattern Darts. herein in accordance with the pattern parts listed in table II. 3.5 Finished measurements. The finished measurements of the collar shall conform to table III. as follows: Measure the neck length along the neck. The collar shall be cut from the materials sp
24、ecified The finished measurements of the collar shall be taken 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-87 1 65 ( USAF) 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-87165 83
25、777770b 0411LILI7 2 . I . H i3 i c O d +J (d k a, a O 6i O c O .rf u a .rf k 0 a, m Fi a, a, n n P n n P L N N I I a, a, vi vi -vi vi CA Co U (d v (u Cu U u R n a 9 .h n u u ld Cu N I I rl oa a, a, L 9-l .vi vi vi vi -a U U i vi i Co k k o. O L O L (d ri d O o 8 rl E! u .u O P a, Y : fs m m O cl rl
26、ri O o L a, a s c; e 4 I Co M (d Y d t El O c, u O P a, c: u .Q m kJ 4 4 O o L a, a a, Y c .rl O 5 Ei (d *a, km (d Y -4 5 El O u u O P a, s u (d k (d 4 ri O o L a, a e s a, Y a, .Pl m cri L ald ea, Ei am * 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IH
27、S-,-,-MIL-C-87 165 (USAF) ta a, 5 C *rl CI u 8 I . H w id 8 me ao SIG OH .Q dk a, vipi o 2 MIL-C-7165 3 m 7777706 OLI11450 7 m z I m. O I 03 F Cu I O F .- n P Cu vi vi W A k O o a (d a, L 5 a, O O rl m o Q 0 O a ho E: d r: o .Q *rl .Q 6i O m a* Ck old rn 2 .rl ld .Q m a c ld m m .Q O a rl rl ld a, *
28、 o a p;“ P Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-KIL-C-87LbS 3 W 797770b OqLL451 O W - MIL-C-87165 (USAF) Material Pattern Part Cut Parts Basic fabric Overcollar 1 (see 3.1.1) Lower collar attachment 2 Overcollar (bottom) 2 Knitted syntheti
29、c Overcollar 1 tab mouton (see 3.1.5) . -_ TABLE III. Finished measurements. Ffnished Measurements in Inches 1/ 2/ Size of Collar 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 Neck Length 17 17-1/2 18 18-1/2 19 19-1/2 20 20- 1 /2 21 21-1/2 22 l/ a/ The finished measurements shall be taken as specified in 3.5. Th
30、e tolerance for the finished measurements shall be 21/4 inch. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- I MIL-C-87165 83 = 779770b 0411452 2 m -. MIL-C-87165 (WAF I 3.6 Identification of Product. fication and size label, The combination iden
31、tification and size label shall conform to type VI, classes 1 and 2 of DDD-L-20 except that the specification number and the words “Dry Clean Onlyff shall beincluded on the label. The combination identification and size label shall have colorfastness to both laundering and dry cleaning. 3.7 Workmans
32、hiD. The collar shall be manufactured in a thoroughly workmanlike manner. 4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 4.1 ResDonsibilitv for inmeotion. Unless otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified. herein. contract, the
33、 contractor may use his own or any any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are de
34、emed necessary toassure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements. 4.2 Classification of inspection. The inspection required by this specification is classified as quality conformance inspection. 4.2.1 Qualitv conformance inspection. The quality conformance inspection shall consist of
35、 the following: The collar shall have a combination identi- Except as otherwise specified in the a. Material and component inspection b. End item inspection c. Preparation for delivery inspection. 4.2.2 Material and comDonent inmections. Materials and components shall be examined and tested in accor
36、dance with all of the applicable subsidiary documents referenced herein to the extent applicable. 4.2.2.1 SamDlina for testing. Unless otherwise specified in documents referenced herein, sampling for testing materials and components shall be as specified below: Lot sizes 800 or less 2 801 to 22,000
37、inclusive 3 22,001 or more 5 4.2.2.2 Certificate of comDliance. If a certificate of compliance is submitted for any requirement specified herein, the Government shall have the right to check test items to determinethe validity of the certification. 4i2.3 End item insoection. in 4.2.3.1 and 4.2.3.2.
38、collar. The end item shall be examined as specified The sample unit for these examinations shall be one 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-C-87 165 (USAF) 4.2.3.1 defects listed in table IV. shall be II of MIL-STD-105. examinatio
39、n shall be 2.5 defects per 100 units.(dhu) for major defects, 15.0 dhu for major and minor A defects, and 40.0 dhu for major and minor A and minor B defects. Visual examination. The end item shall be visually examined for the The inspection level for this visual examination The acceptable quality le
40、vel for this visual 4.2.3.2 Examination of finished measurements. as specified in 3.5 to determine conformance to the finished measurements specified herein. The inspection level for the examination of the finished measurements shall be S-3 of MIL-STD-105. examination of the finished measurement sha
41、ll be 4.0 dhu for defects (one class). Each finished measurement of the end item that deviates from the finished measurement specified in table III shall be classified as a finished measurement defect. 4.24 Preparation fordeliverv insDection. Shipping containers fully prepared for delivery shall be
42、examined, for the defects listed in table V, .to determine compliance with the packaging, packing, and marking requirements specified herein. fully prepared for delivery except that it need not be sealed. The lot size shall be the number of shipping containers in the end item inspection lot. inspect
43、ion level shall be S-2 of MIL-STD-105. shall be 2.5 dhu for defects (one class). The end item shall be measured The acceptable quality level for the *_ The sample unit:for this examination shall be one shipping container The The acceptable quality level TABLE IV. Classification of defects. Defect Bu
44、ttonholes One or more buttonholes omibted or added. uttonhole stitches not caught in fabric, causing stitches to pull away from fabric. One or more broken stitches in one buttonhole. One or more broken stitches in two or more buttonholes. More than two skipped stitches in one or more buttonholes. Ra
45、gged edges in any buttonhole affecting appearance. Gimp of buttonhole omitted. Any buttonhole.uncut. End of one buttonhole insecurely tacked. Ends of two buttonholes insecurely tacked. 9 Major Minor A X X X Minor B Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license
46、from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-87165 (USAF) TABLE IV. Classification of defects. - Continued Defect C1 eanne s s Indelible ink shade stamping exposed on outside or spots or stains of permanent nature. Removable spot or stain clearly noticeable. Thread ends not trimmed or one or more shade tickets not removed. C
47、omDonent and assemblv . Any component defective. Any component missing. . . Any required operation omitted or improperly performed. s. Cut tina Any component not cut in accordance with directional lines on patterns or specified requirements. Materials defects and workmanshit) damages Any weakening m
48、aterial defect such as hole, smash, multiple float, or slub, which might develop into hole. Shade bars, slubs, or any other similar nonweakening material defects on outside of collar. Shade bars, slubs, or any other similar nonweakening material defects on inside of collar. Large drill hole, cut, te
49、ar, mend, or needle chew that might develop into hole. Ruptured fibers in line of sewing (usually caused by broken, blunt, or hooked needles) affecting appearance or serviceability. Major X X X X X X Minor A - X X X X Minor B 10 i Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-C-7365 3
