1、MIL-D-301BD 89 7777906 O373921 8 - t MIL-D-3018D c 18 September 1968 SUPERSEDING 13 November 1964 . MIL-D-3018C MZLITARY SPECIFICATION DRESS, FOOD HANDLERS, WOMANS This specification is mandatory for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope.- This specific
2、ation covers the requirements for a cotton dress for female food handlers. 1.2 Classification.- sizes as specified (see 6.2) : The dresses shall be of one type in the following Schedule of sizes 10 16 22 12 18 24 14 20 26 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 The following documents of the issue in effect on
3、date of invitation for bids or request for proposals, form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein: SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole V-T-276 - Thread. Cotton (Plastic) and Button, Staple -P-268 - Paper, Kraft, Untreated, Wrapping CCC-C-432 - Cloth, Sheeting, C
4、otton, (Unbleached, Bleached, DDD-L-20 - Label; For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General PPP-F-320 - Fiberboard; Corrugated and Solid, Sheet Stock (Con- -. and Dyed) Use) tainer Grade), and Cut Shapes FSC 8415 THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS 2b PAGES. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networ
5、king permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-D-3018D 8Li W 7779706 0373Li22 T i MIL-D-3018D MILITARY MIL-B-17757 - Boxes, Fiberboard Corrugated (Modular Sizes) STANDARDS FEDERAL Fed. Std. No. 751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings MILITARY MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspectio
6、n by MIL-STD-129 - Marking for Shipment and Storage Attributes (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions should be ob- tained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.) 3. REQU
7、IRJIIENTS 3.1 Guide sample.- information to the supplier (see 6.3). %pear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3 2 kterials. - Samples when furnished, are solely for guidance and Variation from the specification may 3.2.1 Basic material,- The material for the dress shall be b
8、leached cotton sheeting, conforming to type VII, class 3 of CCC-C-432. 3.2.2 Thread.- The thread for seaming, stitching and buttonhole sewing shall be cotton, Shade AH, cable No. 66050, White, ticket Nos. 50, 3 ply and 70, 2 ply, conforming to type IA2 of V-T-276. 3.2.3 Labels.- Each dress shall hav
9、e an identification label and a size label or a combination label conforming to type I of DDD-L-20. to laundering requirements shall apply. The fastness 3.2.3.1 Identification label.- The identification label shall conform to class 1. 3.2.3.2 Size label.- The size label shall conform to class 2. 3.2
10、.3.3 Combination label.- The identification and size label may be com- bined into one label conforming to classes 1 and 2. 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- . MIL-D-30ID 4 m 9799706 0373423 - I m , MIL-D-3018D 3.2.4 Buttons.- The but
11、tons shall conform to type II, class D, style 19, 24-line of V-B-871. to shade DD White BA, cable No. 62031. The buttons shall have a glossy finish and shall conform ! 1 i * 3.3 Design.- The dress (see figure i) is a one-piece wrap-around with attached waistband with extension belt; convertible coll
12、ar; short sleeves; back waist with panel vents; five gored skirt; patch pockets on left waist and right skirt front; reinforcements at underarms and button-down shoulder loops. The front wrap, normally worn right over left, may be reversed when soiled. 3.4 Patterns,- Standard patterns, which provide
13、 an allowance of 112 inch for double lapped, double stitched seams, and the side seams, and 318 inch for all other seams will be supplied by the Government. shall not be altered in any way and are to be used only as a guide for cut- ting the suppliers working patterns. to the standard patterns. The
14、standard patterns The working patterns shall be identical 3.4.1 List of pattern parts.- The dress shall be cut from the material as specified and in accordance with the following parts: Pattern parts Mater ia1 Pattern nomenclature Cut parts Waist Cotton sheeting, cloth Front Center back Side back Fr
15、ont facing Yoke Sleeve Cuff Shield Front sleeve reinforcement Back sleeve reinforcement Collar Pocket Shoulder loop Waist band Skirt - Front Center back Side back Pocket 2 1 2 2 1 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 4 4 2 1 2 1 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IH
16、S-,-,-MIL-D-3018D * 3.5 Construction.- 3.5.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching.- Stitch, seam and stitching types, as specified in table I shall conform to Fed. Std. No. 751. Whenever two or more methods of seaming or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be use
17、d. looper (under thread) shall be on the inside of the dress. specified, double lapped, double stitched seams shall be 3/16 to 5/16 inch gage with the outer row of stitching 1/16 inch from turned edge on outside of dress. that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats or puckers shall result. Where sti
18、tch type 401 is used, the Unless otherwise Seam allowances shall be maintained, with seams properly sewn so 3.5.2 Stitches per inch.- inch shall be as specified in table I. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per 3.5.3 Thread breaks and ends of seams.- Ends of all seams and stitchings, when n
19、ot caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. not less than 1/2 inch. stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. thread breaks on 401 stitch type may be repaired using 301 stitch type. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped Thread
20、 breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by Skipped stitches or * 3.5.4 Buttonholes.- The buttonholes shall be the straight cut-after type with a finished cut length of 5/8 to 3/4 inch. When the purl-type buttonhole is used, the purling shall be on the outside. The ends shall be tacked. * 3.6 Man
21、ufacturing operation requirements.- The dress shall be manufactured in accordance with operations requirements specified in table I. The supplier is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations. holding stitching to facilitate manufacture is permissible provided the thread is removed or d
22、oes not show on the finished garment. Any basting or 3.6.1 Figures.- Figure 1 is furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figure, this specification shall control. 3.6.2 Shade and size marking.- The cut parts shall be mar
23、ked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the dress. used except: Any method of marking may be (a) Corrosive metal fastening devices. (b) Sew-on type tickets. (c) Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of paper or adhesive on material upon removal of tickets. 4 Provided by IHSNot for Resal
24、eNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-D-3018D 84 W 7779706 0373425 5 MIL-D-3018D c uw o 3 06 “1 rl 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-D-30LBD 811 7779706 0373426 7 9 MIL-D-3018D NN II O0 bb m I
25、 O VI mwm III O00 m-ul n n u rl m md Nk I lfi I3 O VI gv A3 hlN II EE T O VI mmm III O00 ulmm hh Nm o u0 VI om rl O m LI a VI 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-I MIL-D-30LBD 84 W 777770b 0373Y27 9 W _. _ MIL-D-3018D 7 Provided by IHSN
26、ot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-M1.L-D-3018D mhi I1 O0 mh m m I I O O m m mm II O0 mm mm II O0 mm mm II O0 mm eu dd II O0 rid )r u uu r; 8 4 rlri *u dd II O0 dri ri I w v) O rl krl o O0 mu ri O m 5 U * O O rn m m ow -nif-e-nd ites. - The classif icti
27、or. of cefects fomJ as sem3ly Azy component part or ret!uired operation onitted (unless otherwise classified herein) Cutting Any part not cut in accorLance with directional lines on patterns or specification requirements Seams an9 stitching a. Accuracy of seaming 1. 2. 3. i . 5. Any part of iress ca
28、ught in an unrelated operation or stitching Seam twisted, puckerei or gleatel, affecting qpearmcc (unless otherwise specif icd) Ei; X x 22 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-D-3018D 84 m 7779706 0373443 7 - - - - Classification Defec
29、ts T!aj or :inor Seams and stitching (contd) 2. Loose tension on raise, top or edge stitching, i.e., loosely exposed loops of lower or top thread 3, Tight tension (stitches brea!: when normal strain is applied to seam or stitching) NOTE: Puckering is evidence of tight tension. When pucker- ing is ev
30、ident, seam shall be tested by exerting normal pull in lengthwise direction of seam. g. Stitches per inch (to be scored only when the condi- tion exists on major porticn cf seam) 1. Less than minimuin number specified for a. All seam except labels - one stitch - two stitches - three or more stitches
31、 b. Labels - less than minimum specified 2. Any number of stitches in excess of maximug speci- f ied h. Stitches skipped or broken 1, On jeining.seams a. Up to 1/4 inch, inclusive b. 114 inch to 112 inch, inclusive c. Over 112 inch 2. On edge, top or raised Stitching a. 1/4 inch to 112 inch, inclusi
32、ve b. Over 112 inch 23 X v n X? A X x X X X X X 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-D-30LD A4 777770b 0373444 7 W Defects Classification Pia j or Hinor Buttonholes (construction) a. Stitching not securely caught in fabric, causing
33、 stitching to pull away from fabric b. One or more brbken or more than two continuous skipped stitches in one or more buttonholes c, Tack (bar) on one or both ends omitted or insecure on - one buttonhole - two or more buttonholes d. Ragged edge on buttonhole, incomplete stitching or uncut e. Not spe
34、cified type of buttonhole f. Buttonhole not corresponding to size of button so that they do not button properly g. Purling on one or more buttonholes not on side specified Buttons a. One or more missing, loose, insecurely sewn, broken or defective X b. Not specified size, type or color c. Button sti
35、tching not properly locked at end of stitch- ing cycle (tug at the loose end of the thread to determine if it will ravel) X x x X X X 24 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-D-30LBD 84 7777906 0373V45 O m MIL-D-3018D Classification Ma
36、jor Minor Defects Bartacks a. One or more missing, loose, insecure, or misplaced, not serving intended purpose b, Loose tension on bartacks Pressing a. Burned or scorched X X X b. Omitted or poorly pressed X - - 4.2.2.3 Detailed defects appkicable to speci.$c parts.- - Classification Defects Major M
37、inor AB -I_- Collar a. b. Edges crooked c. Top collar twisted, or tight causing edges to curl up Ends poorly shaped, or not uniform in width, length or shape ci. Collar ends unevenly spaced from front edges of lapel by more than 114 inch e. Ends not securely caught in joining seam at top of lapel f.
38、 Shcrt, i.e., causing puckers or pleats on lapel, front, or yoke g. Long, i.e., causing puckers or pleats on top or under collar 25 X X X X X X X Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-I HIL-D-30LBD 84 7799906 0373446 2 - - -1_1_ Classificat
39、ion Defects Major Xinor AB Lapels a. b. Facing twisted or full Poorly shaped or not uniform in shape X X ce Lapel corners curled, caused by short or tight facing X d, Lapel step or edge not properly forced out X e. Buttonhole less than 1/2 inch or more than 5/8 inch from top of lapel, or less than 3
40、/8 inch or more than 1/2 inch from front edge of lapel Waist front closure a. Buttonholes off center by more than 1/4 inch of pointed end of left waistband extension b. Ends of collar at neck spread more than 1/2 inch den buttoned Waist front a. Shoulder darts not facing neck on inside or varying in
41、 length more than 1/2 inch b. Pleats at waistline 1. Outside folds not facing side seam 2. Not uniformly positioned from side seam by more than 1/2 inch or spacing between pleats varying by more than 1/4 inch on right and left fronts C. Underarm shield (front and side back) 1. Tight or twisted 2. No
42、t centered on sleeve seam d. Unbuttoned waist fronts uneven in length by more than 1/2 inch 26 X X X X X X Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-41L-b3018D Classification Defects Major i4inoi; AB (.- Waist front (contd) e. Buttons not sewn
43、through facing f. Waist not caught securely in waistband joining seam Waist and skirt front pockets a. Set on crookedly b. Poorly shaped c. Excessively full d. e. Hem twisted, or point off center by more than 114 inch Corners not securely tacked or second row of stitching across width of hem omitted
44、 or insecure f. Waist pocket not placed on left waist front or skirt pocket not placed on right skirt front Shoulder loops a. Poorly or not uniformly shaped b. Mot uniform in length by mcre than 315 inch, or set on crookedly causing loop to bulge, gap or twist when butt oiied c. Top ply twisted or f
45、ull, affecting appearance X X *I A d. e. Edges not properly forced out Front edge at armhole unevenly positioned from shoulder seam by more than 114 inch, or center cf lcop positioned in back of shoulder seani, or more than 3/16 inch in front of shoulder seam 27 X X X x x x Y, X - x x Provided by IH
46、SNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-D-3018D 84 7773706 0373448 b 9 MIL-D-3018D I -_II- Classification Defects Kajor Minor AB - Shoulder loops (contd) f Buttonhole 1. 2. From pointed end Off center by more than 1/4 inch - less than 1/2 inch or mor
47、e than 5/8 inch from pointed end g. Button 1. Not aligned with buttonhole causing a noticeable Not sewn through all plies bulge or twist on loop or shoulder when fastened 2. Shoulder seams Yoke not overlapping front Armholes, sleeves and cuffs a. Sleeve lapped on body at armhole b. Sleeve tight at a
48、rmhole, causing puckers on waist front, shoulder loop, yoke and side back c. Sleeve pleated or puckered at armhole or cuff joining seam d. Sleeve reinforcement 1. Tight or twisted 2. Stitchirig irregular or not uniformly stitched on sleeve fronts or backs 3. Not caught in cuffband joining seam 28 X X X X X X X :I Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-D-30LD i.1 W 777770b 03734i.17 W MIL-D-3018D - 7- Classif ication Defects Major i-inor - - AB Armholes, sleeves and
