1、MIL-DTL-8319bC 99999Ob 2076439 673 I INCH-POUNDI MIL-DTL-83 196C(USAF) 30 November 1998 SUPERSEDING 26 November 1986 MIL-U-83 196BVSAF) DETAIL SPECIFICATION UNDERWEAR, DOUBLE-KNITTED, ANTI EXPOSURE CWU-22,“ I Inactive for new design after 1 December 1998 I This specification is approved for use by t
2、he Department of the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE i. 1 underwear, designated CWU-22P. Scope. This specification covers the requirements for one type of extreme cold weather 1.2 civilian equivalent sizes are in parentheses.
3、Classification. The underwear should be in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2). The Size l(32-33) Size 5 (40-41) Size 2 (34-35) Size 6 (42-43) Size 3 (36-37) Size 7 (44-45) Size 4 (38-39) Size 8 (46-47) 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are cited in sec
4、tions 3 and 4 of this specification. These lists do not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of these lists, document users are cautioned that they must me
5、et the requirements specified in the documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data that may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Resources distribut
6、ion is unlimited. Licensed by Information Handling ServicesMIL-DTL-83LSbC = 9999906 2076440 395 MIL-DTL-8 196C(USAF) A 2.2 Government documents. 2.2.1 this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the applicable issues of these documents are those listed in the specific i
7、ssue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Specifications and standards. The following specifications and standards form a part of SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50 1 55 - Cloth, Muslin, Cotton V-T-285 - Th
8、read, Polyester V-T-295 - Thread, Nylon JJ-W- 1 5 5 - Webbing, Textile (Cotton Elastic) ccc-c-432 - Cloth, Sheeting, Cotton (Unbleached, Bleached, Dyed) DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) A-A-5 5 62 1 - Fasteners, Snap, Style 3 Pronged Ring Head Type (16 LIGNE) DEPAR
9、TMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-c-3735 - Cuffs, Knit, Wrist and Ankle, and Cloth, Knitted MIL-F-10884 - Fastener, Snap STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications and standards are available f
10、rom the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 191 11-5094.) 2.2.2 Other Government documents. drawings. and uublications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specifi
11、ed herein. Uniess otherwise specified, the applicable issues are those cited in the solicitation. 2 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesDRAWINGS AIR FORCE 68J236 68J237 68J238 68J239 71387 71388 71389 71390 - - - - - - - - Patterns - Underwear, Double-Knitted, Anti-Exposure CWU-22/P, Size 1 Pat
12、terns - Underwear, Double-Knitted, Anti-Exposure CWU-22/P, Size 2 Patterns - Underwear, Double-Knitted, Anti-Exposure CWU-22/P, Size 3 Patterns - Underwear, Double-Knitted, Anti-Exposure CWU-22/P, Size 4 Patterns - Underwear, Double-Knitted, Anti-Exposure CWU-22/P, Size 5 Patterns - Underwear, Doubl
13、e-Knitted, Anti-Exposure CWU-22/P, Size 6 Patterns - Underwear, Double-Knitted, Anti-Exposure CWU-22/P, Size 7 Patterns - Underwear, Double-Knitted, Anti-Exposure CWU-22/P, Size 8 (Application for copies should be addressed to SA-ALC/TILDD, 485 Quentin Roosevelt Rd., Kelly AFB, Texas, 78241-6425.) 2
14、.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the applicable issues of the documents which have been adopted by the DoD are those listed in the specific issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. U
15、nless otherwise specified, the documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY CONTROL (ASQC) ANWASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures And Tables For Inspection By Attributes OD adopted) (Application for copies should be
16、addressed to American Society for Quality Control, 6 1 1 East Wisconsin Avenue, P.O. Box 3005, Milwaukee, Wisconsin, 53201-3005 or to the American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, New York, 10036.) AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM) ASTM C 177 - ASTM D 1777
17、 - ASTM D 3776 - ASTM D 5034 - Heat Flux Measurements and Thermal Transmission Properties by Means of the Guarded-Hot-Plate Apparatus (DoD adopted) Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric Standard Test Method for Breaking
18、 Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materiais, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA, 19428-2959.) 2.4 references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this d
19、ocument, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the Licensed by Information Handling ServicesMIL-DTL-83 194C(USAF) Characteristics Total weight, ounces pe
20、r square yard Mnimum Maximum Minimum Maximum Knited cotton weight, ounces per square yard 3. RFiQUIREMENTS Requirement 20 23 11 12 3.1 inspection in accordance with 4.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article Air permeability, cubic feet per square foot
21、 per minute, minimum Width inches 3.2 Materials. 100 32h 1 Nylon filler weight, ounces per square yard Minimum Maximum Thermal conductivity when compressed 25% Thickness Uncompressed, inch Compressed (percent of uncompressed), minimum Elongation, percent i/ Wales Courses 9 11 0.0474 to 0.0478 1 0.25
22、 *Oo.O1 80 a: 35 i 70 - 1/ Minimum stretch at. 113 maximum tensile load. 3 -2.1.1 Nvlon yarns. The nylon filler shal be delustered nylon yarns. The nylon yarns before crimping or texturing shall be 2 ply, 80 to 180 denier with a mdum filament size of 7 denier per filament. The nylon yarn shall be on
23、e of the following types: t a. crimps per inch. b. entanglement pattern, or a combination random crimp and fiber entanglement pattern. A yarn with a pronounced crimp pattern of 4/64 f 1/64 inch in height and 14 to 16 A yarn, having a minimum elongation of 3000/0, in a random crimp pattern, a fiber L
24、icensed by Information Handling ServicesUIL-DTL-83196C D 7999906 207b443 OT4 M . MIL-DTL-83 196C(USAF) 3.2.1.2 Knitted cotton and tie threads. The knitted cotton and the tie threads shall be made of evenly carded and drawn 2-ply yams with sufficient twist for the requirement. The tie threads shall b
25、e an integral part of the cotton knit fabric. 3.2.2 Elastic webbing. The elastic webbing for the waistband shall conform to Type I, Class 14 of JJ-W-155. The elastic webbing shall be 2 inches wide. The color of the elastic webbing shall approximately match the color of the basic fabric. The elastic
26、webbing shall be colorfast to laundering and perspiration. 3.2.3 Thread. The thread for sewing the underwear shall conform to Type I, Class 1 or 3, subclass A, letter size A or B of V-T-285, or to Type I, Class 1, letter size A of B of V-T-295 The color of the thread shall be sage green and approxim
27、ate USAF color shade No. 1509 (see 6.3). The thread shall be colorfast to laundering and perspiration. 3.2.4 Snap fasteners. The snap fasteners shall be pronged-ring head type conforming to A-A- 55621-1B, -3B, -4B, and -5B; style 3 of MIL-F-10884. 3.2.5 Fly facing. The fabric for the fly facing shal
28、l conform to Type I or II of A-A-50155; or to Type I or II, Class 3 of CCC-C-432. The fabric for the fly facing shall be sage green and match USAF color shade No. 1509 (see 6.3). The fly facing fabric shall be colorfast to laundering and perspiration. 3.2.6 Collar. wristlets, and anklets. The fabric
29、 for the collar, wristlets, and anklets shall conform to MIL-C-3735, except that the wool requirements, test methods, and shrink requirements shall not apply. The fabric for the collar shall be Type I, Class 3 of MIL-C-3735. The fabric for the wristlets shall be Type I, Class 2 of MIL-C-3735. The fa
30、bric for the anklets shall be Type I, Class 1 of MIL-C-3735. The fabric shall be made of alternating cotton and nylon yarns. The cotton yarns shall be evenly carded, drawn, and spun into singles, with sufficient twist to meet the requirements of MIL-C-3735. The nylon yams shall be spun on the worste
31、d system and plied into 2-ply yarn with sufficient twist to meet the requirements of MIL-C-3735. For the anklets and wristlets, three courses of single, cotton yarn shall alternate with one course of 2-ply spun nylon Yarn- 3.2.7 The anklets shall be finished to a folded width of 3 f 1/4 inches and a
32、n open length of 9 f 1/4 inches. The wristlets shall be finished to a folded width of 2-1/2 f 1/4 inches and an open length of 9 f 1/4 inches. The weight of the anklets shall be a minimum of 12 ounces per dozen pairs. The weight of the wristlets shall be a minimum of 9 ounces per dozen pairs. The fa
33、bric for the collar, wristlets, and anklets shd be colorfast to laundering and perspiration. 3.3 Design. The underwear shall consist of two pieces: a pullover type undershirt and a conventional fly opening underpants. The underwear shall have knitted wristlets, anklets, and crew neck type collar. Th
34、e underpants shall have an elastic waistband and a reinforced fly section. Figure 3 shows a general design of the underwear and is furnished for information only. 3.4 seams; however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein. The underwear shal be
35、cut in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.5. Construction. The undemear shall be constructed as specified in table II, using sewn 5 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesS equencc Number 606 606 606 301 or 3 04 301 or 3 04 606 or 607 1 FSa-1 FSa-1 FSa-1 SSae-1 LSd- 1 s sv- 1 FSa-1 2 3 4
36、5 TABLE II. Sewing; operations for underpants. Description of Operation Overedge stitch underpants. Overedge stitch all raw edges of the basic two parts of the underpants and the crotch Diece. Join underpants. a. Join the side darts. b. Join the back seam. c. Join the crotch piece to the right and l
37、eft backs. d. Join the facing to the right and left fly opening using seam type SSae-1 on the top and fi-ont edges and seam type LSd-1 on the back edges. Install fly. Place the left fly over the right fly with the edge of the left fly even with the inside row of stitching on the right fly. Stitch th
38、e left fly to the right fly at the bottom area with one row of stitching. The stitching shali start at the point that the outer edge of the left fly is joined to the crotch seam. The stitching shall continue on a diagonal line upward across the left fly to the inside row of stitching on the fly at a
39、 point approximately 1-1/2 inches fiom the crotch seam (see figure 2). Cut and attach waistband. a. Cut the elastic webbing for the waistband the required length. The length in inches for sizes 1,2,3,4, 5,6,7, and 8 shall be 22,24,26,28, 30, 32,34, and 36 (W4 inch), respectively. b. Stitch the elast
40、ic webbing to the top of the underpants along each end and across the bottom edge with the elastic webbing overlapping the underpants 1/4 t 1/8 inch. The elastic webbing shall be equally distributed around the circumference of the underpants. Install snap fasteners. Install the four snap fasteners,
41、the pronged rings in the lefi fly, and studs in the right (under) _I fly. The top snap fastener shall be 3/4 inch from the top edge. The second snap fastener shall be 2-1/4 inches from the top edge. The bottom snap fastener shall be 3 inches from the bottom of the fly. The third snap fastener shall
42、be equidistant fiam the top and the bottom snap fasteners. Stitch Seamand TypelSfitching 505 Or I Stitches per Inch 20-24 12-14 12-14 12-14 8-10 8-10 8-10 12-14 6 Licensed by Information Handling Services MIL-DTL-83h9bC 9999906 2076445 977 Sequence Number 8 9 10 11 12 13 MIL-DTL-83 196C(USAF) TABLE
43、II. Sewing operations for underpants. - Continued Description of Operation Overedge stitch and join anklet. a. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the knitted anklets catching both edges of the knit. b. Join the anklets to the leg terminals of the underpants. c. Cover stitch the raw seam edges. Attach
44、label to underpants. Center the label over the back seam 2-1/2 f 1/4 inches down from the finished top of the underpants. Join the label to the underpants with a single row of stitching on all four sides. Trim thread ends. Trim all thread ends and remove loose threads. Cut undershirt. Cut the back,
45、fiont, sleeves, and knit collar. Overedge stitch undershirt. Overedge stitch all raw edges of the back, front, and sleeves of the undershirt, including the underarm vent cutouts. Join undershirt. a. Join the front to the back of the shoulders. b. Join the sleeves to the armholes. c. Join the side se
46、ams. d. Join the wristlets to the sleeve ends. e. Join the ends of the knit collar with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge. Overedge stitch and join collar to undershirt. a. Fold the collar lengthwise with the raw edges of the seam to the inside and overedge stitch the two edges togeth
47、er. b. Join the collar to the neck opening, joining seam for the collar to be the back of the undershirt. Attach label to undershirt. The label shall be positioned at the center of the back 1 +_ 114 inch down fi-om the collarline and stitched to the undershirt with a continuous row of stitching on a
48、li four sides. Stitch me 5 04 or 505 30 1 or 504 402, 406, or 606 301 or 3 04 5 04 or 505 606 606 606 606 301 504 or 505 606 301 or 3 04 Seam and Stitching Type EFd- 1 SSa-1 SSh-2(a) LSbj-1 EFd- 1 FSa-1 FSa-1 FSa- 1 FSa-1 SSa-1 EFd- 1 FSa-1 LSbj-1 Stitches per Inch 20-24 12-14 20-24 8-10 8-10 12-14
49、12-14 12-14 12-14 8-10 20-24 12-14 8-10 7 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesMIL-DTL-83 196CwSA.F) Outseam (+l, -34 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 3.4.1 shall be in accordance with FED-STD175 1. The overedge stitching shall extend not less than 3/16 inch from the raw edge. The overedge machining shall not be equipped with a knife, or the knife shall be removed. The rows of stitching on each side of seam Type FSa-1 shall be a minimum of 3/32 inch and a maximum of 5/32 inch fiom the center of the seamline. Stitches per inch shall be as specified in table II. Stitches. seams, and st
