1、Designation: D 1336 07Standard Test Method forDistortion of Yarn in Woven Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 1336; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in pa
2、rentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This test method covers the measurement of yarndistortion of one set of yarns over the other in woven clothfollowing the application of surface fr
3、iction. This test methodespecially is applicable to open-weave fabrics, such as nettings,marquisettes, gauzes, chiffons, and heavier fabrics made fromslippery surface yarns.NOTE 1For the determination of yarn slippage in woven fabrics, referto Test Method D 434.1.2 The values stated in SI units are
4、to be regarded as thestandard. The inch-pound units given in parentheses areprovided for information only.1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety an
5、d health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam3D 1776 Practice for Conditioning and
6、 Testing TextilesD 4850 Terminology Relating to Fabric2.2 Federal Standard:Federal Test Method Standard 191Method 5410 SlippageResistance of Yarns in Cloth, Yarn Distortion Method43. Terminology3.1 For all terminology relating to D13.59, Fabric TestMethods, General, refer to Terminology D 4850.3.1.1
7、 The following terms are relevant to this standard: yarndistortion.3.2 For all other terminology related to textiles, refer toTerminology D 123.4. Summary of Test Method4.1 A specimen is subjected to a specified shearing forceacting in the plane of the fabric. The degree to which the forcecauses yar
8、ns to shift distorting the original symmetry of theweave is taken as a measure of ease of yarn distortion in thefabric. The degree of distortion is reported in terms of thewidest opening, measured in hundredths of an inch.5. Significance and Use5.1 This test method is considered satisfactory for acc
9、ep-tance testing of commercial shipments because current esti-mates of between-laboratory precision are acceptable and themethod has been used extensively in the trade for acceptancetesting.5.2 In cases of dispute, the statistical bias, if any, betweenthe laboratory of the purchaser and the laborato
10、ry of the sellershould be determined, with each comparison being based ontesting randomized specimens from one sample of fabric.5.3 This test method is used as an indication of the propen-sity of yarns to shift or distort in a fabric. Such distortions areobjectionable due to the resulting changes in
11、 appearance.These appearance changes are sometimes referred to as “fingermarks” or “shift marks.”5.4 It is recommended that fabrics be tested in their originalcondition and also after laundering or drycleaning, or both,depending upon the intended use of the material.6. Apparatus6.1 Fabric Shift Test
12、er5, as shown in Fig. 1, including:6.1.1 Cylindrical Rubber Friction Drums, consisting of apair of rubber drums mounted one above the other on the testerin such a way that the specimen may be inserted between theirtwo circular contacting surfaces. Each drum shall be 19 mm(0.75 in.) in diameter and h
13、ave a Shore Durometer hardness of55 to 60 (A scale). The lower drum shall be 51 mm (2 in.) inlength, fastened to the platform of the apparatus. Facilities shall1This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabr
14、ic Test Methods,General.Current edition approved July 1, 2007. Published August 2007. Originallyapproved in 1954. Last previous edition approved in 2003 as D 1337 97 (2003).2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For A
15、nnual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn.4Available from General Services Administrations, Specification and ConsumerInformation and Distribution Section (WFSIS), Washington, Navy Yard, Building197, Washington, DC 2040
16、7.5The United States Testing Company, Inc., 1415 ParkAve., Hoboken, NJ 07030.The apparatus is described in Federal Test Method Standard 191-Method 5410.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.be provided for rotation of the d
17、rums in the mounting framebetween tests. The upper drum shall be 25 mm (1 in.) in length,have the same provisions for rotation as the lower one, andshall be so mounted that a total force of 4.5 to 18 N (1 to 4 lbf)can be exerted upon the specimen by means of a lever arm andmovable weight.NOTE 2The t
18、erm “weight” is used temporarily in this test methodbecause of established trade usage. The word weight is used to mean both“force” and “mass,” and care must be taken to determine which is meantin each case (SI unit for force = newton and for mass = kilogram).6.1.2 Mounting Frame or Bracket, designe
19、d to hold thespecimen under uniform tension. The frame shall consist of arectangle whose inside dimensions are 102 by 153 mm (4 by 6in.). The 153-mm (4-in.) sides shall be rectangular screwclamps 10 mm (0.375 in.) wide, with the gripping surfacessuitably grooved, taped, or otherwise designed or modi
20、fied tominimize slipping of the specimen in the clamps during thetest. The frame, when placed in the test position on the rails,shall be free to slide as a carriage in a plane perpendicular tothe plane of the areas of the friction drums.6.1.3 Hand-Crank Arrangement, for 25 mm (1 in.) recipro-cating
21、motion of the carriage. This device, or reciprocatingarm, shall have a cam attachment that lifts the upper drum inthe return motion.6.1.4 Rails, two sets, fixed and spaced on the platform of thetester, for supporting the carriage.6.2 Jig, for mounting the specimen in the frame undertension of 22.2 6
22、 0.22 N (5 6 0.05 lbf). A suitable deviceconsists of a clamp and weight (Fig. 1) having a total mass of2.3 kg (5 lb).6.3 Steel Scale, graduated in a 0.2 mm (0.01 in.).6.4 Dividers.6.5 Magnifying Device,53 power.7. Sampling, Selection and Number of Specimens7.1 Take a lot sample and a laboratory samp
23、le as directed inthe applicable material specification or as agreed upon by thepurchaser and the supplier. In the absence of such a specifica-tion or agreement, take one representative sample from each lotof rolls, pieces, or consumer items.NOTE 3A realistic specification or other agreement between
24、thepurchaser and the supplier requires taking into account the variabilitybetween primary sampling units and within primary sampling units so asto provide a sampling plan, which has a meaningful producers risk,consumers risk, acceptable quality level, and limiting quality level. A lotsample normally
25、 consists of a very small fraction of the total primarysampling units.FIG. 1 Fabric Shift TesterD13360727.2 Take five specimens from each laboratory sampling unit(roll, piece, or consumer item) with the long dimension parallelto the yarns that have the greater resistance to shifting and takethem fro
26、m undisturbed portions of the fabric.7.3 Whenever possible, take specimens such that no twospecimens are taken from the same warp yarns or fillingbobbins and at such places that no specimen is nearer to theselvage than one-tenth the width of the fabric.7.4 Designate as “warp specimens” those specime
27、ns cutwith their long dimension parallel with the filling, and as“filling specimens” those cut with their long dimension parallelwith the warp.7.5 When testing after laundering or drycleaning, prepare aseparate set of specimens from a swatch of fabric from thelaboratory sample.7.5.1 Because of the m
28、any end-uses and means of refurbish-ing, the procedure used for laundering or drycleaning must beagreed upon by the purchaser and the supplier.8. Conditioning8.1 Condition samples for testing as directed in PracticeD 1776, except that preconditioning is not necessary.9. Preparation of Specimens9.1 P
29、reliminary Test (Thumb and Finger Test)With thethumb and forefinger touching opposite surfaces of the fabric,exert a shearing motion to produce a frictional force that is highenough to produce a shift mark and estimate the direction ofleast resistance to yarn shifting. Where insufficient evidence of
30、the direction of least resistance is noted by the thumb andfinger test, cut one specimen in each direction and determinethe resistance mechanically as directed in Section 10.9.2 From each sample cut five specimens 102 by 203 6 2mm (4 by 8 6 0.1 in.) with the longer dimension parallel to theset of ya
31、rns having the greater resistance to shifting asdetermined by the preliminary test.9.3 Pull a yarn at the edge of the specimen in both the warpand filling directions to aid in aligning the specimen in themounting frame of the tester.10. Procedure10.1 Verify and establish the weight location on the m
32、omentarm of the tester using a calibrated spring scale, or equivalent,and adjust the weight position as needed to provide therequired force.NOTE 4Some instruments may not provide the designated force at themanufacturers marked location.10.2 Test the specimens in the standard atmosphere fortesting te
33、xtiles.10.3 Place the specimen vertically in the frame with thewarp or filling yarns parallel to the sides of the frame. Clampone 102-mm (4-in.) end of the specimen to one end of theframe. Apply the 2.3-kg (5-lb) weight across the opposite102-mm (4-in.) width of the specimen and fasten the secondcla
34、mp securely. Remove the weight and clamp.10.4 Raise the upper friction drum on its weighted lever andplace the frame between the drums, positioning it at theextreme end of its travel on the rails.10.5 Adjust the weight of the upper friction drum to providethe force specified in the material specific
35、ation and lower thelever arm gently so that the drum rests on the specimen. In theabsence of such a specification use the force described in Table1.10.6 Make two rotations on the hand crank at a speed ofapproximately 30 rpm to slide the carriage back and forth overa distance of 25 mm (1 in.), causin
36、g the cloth to slip twicebetween the friction drums. Locate the area of friction on thespecimen centrally between the clamps, approximately 13 mm(0.5 in.) from one edge of the specimen.10.7 Transfer the carriage to the second pair of rails andrepeat the test to cause another area of friction 13 mm (
37、0.5 in.)from the other long edge of the specimen.10.8 Turn the rubber surfaces of the friction drums in theirclamps to present a new surface after every 40 rubbing cycles.Replace the drums after each complete revolution in theirclamps. When not in use, keep the friction drums from comingin contact w
38、ith each other.10.9 Remove the carriage from the rails, and remove thespecimen carefully from the frame and tape it without tensionon a flat, smooth surface having a contrasting color.10.10 Allow the specimen to relax for 15 min after removalfrom the frame. Measure the widest opening of each shift m
39、ark,or distorted yarn group, as illustrated in Fig. 2 to the nearest 0.2mm (0.01 in.). Make the measurement under magnification,using a pair of dividers and graduated scale.10.11 The width of the shifted area should measure 25.4mm (1 in.). If it is less than 25.4 mm (1 in.), the test should bediscar
40、ded as it indicates that the test was either run improperlyor the apparatus is out of adjustment.11. Calculation11.1 Calculate the individual specimen average openingwidth from the two two-stroke shift marks to the nearest 0.2mm (0.01 in.).11.2 Calculate the average slippage of the five tested speci
41、-mens to the nearest 0.2 mm (0.01 in.).11.3 Consider test results that show unshifted or nonalignedyarns as illustrated in Fig. 2 as unmeasurable. The nonalignedcondition may be corrected by proper alignment of the speci-men as provided in 10.1.12. Report12.1 State that the specimens were tested as
42、directed in TestMethod D 1336. Describe the material or product sampled, andthe method of sampling used.12.2 Report the following information:12.2.1 The yarn distortion for each laboratory sampling unitand for the lot,TABLE 1 Force to Be Applied to FabricForce N (lbf) Type of Fabric4.4 (1) blouse, d
43、ress, scarf, and window curtain8.9 (2) bathrobe, beachwear, bedspread, drapery, dressinggown, decorative pillow, lining, rapery, necktie,shirting, sleepwear, tablecloth, and underwear18.0 (4) coat, comforter, sportswear, suiting, umbrella, anduniformD133607312.2.2 The number of specimens tested,12.2
44、.3 The drycleaning or laundering procedure used, if any,12.2.4 The force used,12.2.5 Whether the warp or the filling yarns were distorted,and,12.2.6 For any test result considered unmeasurable, reportthe nature of the resistance and the direction.13. Precision and Bias13.1 Interlaboratory Test6An in
45、terlaboratory test was runin 1970 in which four laboratories each tested ten specimensfrom each of five materials. Each laboratory had one operatortest each material. All 40 specimens of each material camefrom the same sample. The components of variance for yarndistortion expressed as standard devia
46、tions were calculated tobe:mm (in.)Single-material comparisonsSingle-operator component 6.35 (0.25)Within-laboratory component 0.00 (0.00)Between-laboratory component 0.00 (0.00)Multi-material comparisonsSingle-operator component 0.00 (0.00)Within-laboratory component 0.00 (0.00)Between-laboratory c
47、omponent 2.03 (0.08)NOTE 5Where separate components of variance are shown for multi-material components, (1) the multi-material, single-operator component isdue to an operator times material (within-laboratories) interaction and iscombined with the single-material, single-operator component in calcu
48、-lating critical differences, and (2) any increase in the multi-material,between-laboratory component is due to a material times laboratoryinteraction.13.2 PrecisionFor the components of variance reported in13.1, two averages of observed values should be consideredsignificantly different at the 95 %
49、 probability level if thedifference equals or exceeds the critical differences for yarndistortion listed below:Number ofObservations inEach AverageCritical DifferencesAmm (in.), for the Conditions NotedSingle-Operator Precision Between-Laboratory PrecisionSingle-material Comparisonsmm (in.) mm (in.)1 17.5 (0.69) 17.5 (0.69)2 12.4 (0.49) 12.4 (0.49)5 7.9 (0.31) 7.9 (0.31)10 5.6 (0.22) 5.6 (0.22)Multi-material Comparisonsmm (in.) mm (in.)1 17.5 (0.69) 18.5 (0.73)2 12.4 (0.49) 13.7 (0.54)5 7.9 (0.31) 9.7 (0.38)10 5.6 (0.22) 2.6 (0.32)AThe critical differences were calculated
