1、Designation: D1683/D1683M 11aStandard Test Method forFailure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1683/D1683M; the number immediately following the designation indicates theyear of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last
2、revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of lastreapproval. A superscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.1. Scope1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam st
3、rength inwoven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewnseams.NOTE 1The grab test procedure in Test Method D5034 shall be usedto determine any characteristic in fabric that can affect the measurement ofsewn seam strength.1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtainedfrom a p
4、reviously sewn article or seams sewn with fabricsamples using either a specific seam assembly (see Table 1), orproduction seam assemblies.1.2 This test method is used when a breaking force torupture, a minimum elongation, or both are required todetermine the sewn seam strength, seam slippage, or sea
5、mintegrity of a particular fabric for a specified end use.NOTE 2This test method is used in conjunction with Test MethodD5034, which is used to measure breaking force and elongation of textilefabrics. Sewn seams in woven fabrics can fail due to rupture, slippage, orany combination thereof. Rupture c
6、an be further categorized as failure orfabric, or sewing thread, or seam slippage.1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear perfor-mance of a seam.1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound unitsare to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated ineach system may not be
7、 exact equivalents; therefore, eachsystem shall be used independently of the other. Combiningvalues from the two systems may result in non-conformancewith the standard.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of
8、 the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for TextilesD123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD1776 Pr
9、actice for Conditioning and Testing TextilesD5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongationof Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)D5822 Test Method for Determining Seam Strength inInflatable Restraint CushionsD6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 needle damage, nin s
10、ewn fabrics, the partial orcomplete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needlepassing through a fabric during sewing.3.1.2 seam allowance, nin sewn fabrics, the distance fromthe edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from thatedge.3.1.3 seam assembly, nthe composite structure o
11、btainedwhen fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.3.1.3.1 DiscussionA seam assembly may be described interms of fabric orientation, seam direction, seam type, stitchtype, seam allowance, sewing thread tex number(s) and type(s)stitch density, stitch gage, and rows of stitching.3.1.4 seam effciency,
12、 nin sewn fabrics, the ratio, ex-pressed as a percentage, of the breaking force required torupture a sewn seam to that required to rupture the fabric.3.1.5 seam engineering, nin sewn fabrics, the proceduresused to select a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch1This test method is under the j
13、urisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.Current edition approved July 1, 2011. Published August 2011. Originallyapproved in 1990. Discontinued in 1999 and reinstated in 2004 as D168304. Lastprevious edition approved in 201
14、1 as D168311. DOI: 10.1520/D1683_D1683M-11A.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.1Copyright ASTM I
15、nternational, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.type, seam type, and stitch density to achieve the maximumsewn seam strength for a particular fabric type.3.1.6 seam failure, nin sewn fabrics, that point at whichan external force (1) ruptures the sewi
16、ng thread, (2) rupturesthe fabric, (3) causes excessive yarn slippage adjacent to thestitches, or (4) causes any combination of these unacceptableconditions.3.1.6.1 DiscussionDespite the lack of rupture, excessiveseam slippage will either significantly reduce seam efficiency,or, result in an unsight
17、ly appearance thus creating seam failure.3.1.7 seam slippage, nin sewn fabrics, a mode of failurein production seams.3.1.7.1 DiscussionShown as a transverse ratio of junctionstrength to fabric strength including the ratio of elongation offabric to the ratio of elongation at the junction. Seam slippa
18、ge,occurs when fabric yarns parallel to the stitch line move awayfrom the seam. It is caused by the yarns in the fabric pulling outfrom the stitch line, and manifests itself as a gaping opening.Any movement of the warp and weft yarns away from a seamline under transverse stresses, which exacerbate t
19、he potentialdamage. (See yarn slippage.)3.1.8 seam type, nin sewn fabrics, an alphanumeric des-ignation relating to the essential characteristics of fabricpositioning and rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabricseam.3.1.8.1 DiscussionThe first two letters of the designationshow seam type; the th
20、ird and subsequent letters specify aparticular mating alignment; the number designation indicatesthe number of rows of stitches.3.1.9 sewn seam, nin sewn fabrics, a juncture at whichtwo or more planar structures such as textile fabrics, are joinedby sewing, usually near the edge.3.1.10 sewn seam str
21、ength, nin sewn fabrics, the maxi-mum resistance to rupture of the junction formed by stitchingtogether two or more planar structures.3.1.11 slippage, nin sewn fabrics, the displacement of oneor more fabric yarns from their original position, so as to causedifferences in alignment, spacing or both.3
22、.1.12 standard seam, na seam assembly which uses aspecific seam type for a designated fabric having specificweight, density and construction, as shown in Table 1.TABLE 1 Standard/Default Seam Assembly SpecificationAFabric: High Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Fine Count YarnsMass
23、up to 270 g/m28 oz/yd2 over 270 g/m28 oz/yd2Seam allowance 13 mm 0.5 in. 16 mm 0.625 in.Needle:Size Metric 90 0.036 in. Metric 110 0.044 in.Finish chrome chromePoint thin ball (No.1/No. 23) medium ball (No. 23/No. 43)Sewing thread size:Cotton Tex 35 Tex 70Polyester-core Tex 40 Tex 60Seam Type Ssa-1
24、Ssa-1Stitch Type 301 301Stitch Density 4.7 612 stitches per centimetre 3.1 612 stitches per centimetre12 612 stitches per inch 8 612 stitches per inchFabric: Medium Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Fine to Medium Count YarnsMass up to 270 g/m28 oz/yd2 over 270 g/m28 oz/yd2Seam Allo
25、wance 25 mm 1 in. 25 mm 1 in.Needle:Size Metric 110 0.044 in. Metric 140 0.054 in.Finish chrome chromePoint medium ball (No. 43/No. 44) medium ball (No. 43/No. 44)Sewing Thread:Cotton Tex 70 Tex 105Polyester-core Tex 60 Tex 90Seam type SSn-2 SSn-2Stitch type 301 301Stitch density 4.7 612 stitches pe
26、r centimetre 3.1 612 stitches per centimetre12 612 stitches per inch 8 612 stitches per inchFabric: Low Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Medium to Heavy Count YarnsMass up to 270 g/m28 oz/yd2 over 270 g/m28 oz/yd2Seam allowance 40 mm 1.5 in. 40 mm 1.5 in.Needle:Size Metric 110 0.04
27、4 in. Metric 140 0.054 in.Finish chrome chromePoint medium ball (No. 44) heavy ball (No. 45)Sewing thread size:Cotton Tex 70 Tex 105Polyester-core Tex 60 Tex 90Seam type SSd-2 SSd-2Stitch type 401 401Stitch density 4.7 612 stitches per centimetre 3.1 612 stitches per centimetre12 612 stitches per in
28、ch 8 612 stitches per inchAA complete description of seam types and stitch types can be found in Practice D6193.D1683/D1683M 11a23.1.13 stitch, nin sewn seams, the repeated unit formed bythe sewing thread(s) in the production of seams.3.1.14 stitch density, nin sewn fabrics, the number ofstitches pe
29、r unit length in one row of stitching.3.1.15 stitch gage, nin sewn fabrics, the perpendiculardistance between adjacent parallel rows of stitching.3.1.16 stitch type, na numerical designation relating to theessential characteristics of the interlacing of sewing thread(s)in a specified stitch.3.1.16.1
30、 DiscussionStitch types are described in PracticeD6193.3.1.17 yarn slippage, na mode of failure of fabrics whensewn using a standard seam.3.1.17.1 DiscussionThe displacement of one or morefabric yarns from the original position(s) so as to causedifferences in alignment and spacing of both yarns.3.2
31、For definitions of other textile terms used in this testmethod, refer to Terminology D123.4. Summary of Test Method4.1 This test method can also be used to measure seamslippage by subtracting the elongation of the fabric from that ofthe fabric with a seam in it.4.2 The applied force is longitudinal
32、and perpendicular tothe seam.4.2.1 A force is applied until seam failure occurs.5. Significance and Use5.1 This test method can also be used to determine either thesewn seam strength of textiles or the efficiency of a seamassembly with any given fabric. Additionally, the seamstrengths of different f
33、abrics can be compared directly by usingone of the standard seam assemblies specified in Table 1.Because current information about laboratory precision isincomplete, comparative tests may be advisable.5.1.1 In case of dispute arising from differences in reportedtest results when using this test meth
34、od for acceptance testingof commercial shipments, the purchaser and the suppliershould perform comparative tests to determine if there is astatistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statisticalassistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As aminimum, the two parties should ta
35、ke a group of test speci-mens from the same lot of fabric to be evaluated, which utilizea like seam assembly (or standard seam assembly). The testspecimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbersto each laboratory for testing. If a bias is found, either its causemust be determined and corr
36、ected, or the purchaser andsupplier must agree to interpret future test results in light of theknown bias.5.2 This test method determines the seam efficiency of aspecified seam assembly with each fabric. Because seamefficiency varies with each fabric, one of the standard seamassemblies, as noted in
37、Table 1, should be used when compar-ing the seam strength of different fabrics. Table 1 lists thedefault seam assembly specifications to be used for fabricsmade with fine, medium and heavy count yarns. If a determi-nation cannot be made as to which seam is the best suited fora particular fabric, all
38、 should be evaluated.5.3 Seams prepared for this test method should be made bycompetent factory sewing operators familiar with the potentialfor damage to the integrity of the sewn seam when stitching isimproperly done. (See Note 2.)NOTE 3If competent factory sewing operators are not accessible, alab
39、oratory technician familiar with the potential for damage of animproperly sewn seam may prepare the seamed test specimens. It isimperative for purchaser/supplier to understand the impact an improperlysewn seam will have on test results.5.4 This test method is applicable whenever a determinationof ef
40、fective sewn seam strength, that is, the optimum seaminteraction, is required. The breaking force of the seam andfabric will permit determination of seam efficiency. This testmethod can aid in determining optimum seam interaction forany given fabric by comparing the properties of the fabric withand
41、without seams.5.5 Seam engineering techniques for specific fabric typescan also be determined by utilizing this test method.5.6 This test method can be used to determine when thesewn seam is affected by seam slippage. While the ultimateconsequence of this phenomenon is rupture, seam slippagegreater
42、than either the values stated in customer specifications,or as agreed upon by purchaser/supplier may severely reducethe integrity such that the product cannot be used for itsintended purpose. (An example of a commonly used seamslippage value is 6 6 1 mm 0.25 6 0.04 in.).6. Apparatus6.1 Tensile Testi
43、ng Machine, as used in Test Method D5034conforming to Specification D76, and preferably a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type of machine capable of jawseparation rate of 305 6 10 mm/min 12.0 6 0.5 in./min andan adequate pen or interfaced computer response to record theforce-extension curve. When a
44、 CRE type of machine is notused, a constant-rate-of traverse (CRT) type of machine. (SeeNote 4.)NOTE 4In cases of dispute a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) typemachine should be used to referee testing. Because of the biases betweentest results for these types of tensile testing machine, report the
45、 name, typeand date of calibration of the machine used.6.1.1 At least one clamp should be supported by a freeswivel or universal joint to allow the clamp to rotate in theplane of the fabric.6.1.2 Back Jaws,256 1mm16 0.04 in., parallel todirection of force application by not less than 50 6 1mm260.04
46、in. perpendicular to direction of force application. (SeeNote 5.)NOTE 5Front (or top) faces measuring 25 6 1by506 1 mm 1.0 60.04 by 2.0 6 0.04 in. will not necessarily give the same value as 25 61by256 1 mm 1.0 6 0.04 by 1.0 6 0.04 in. faces. For many materials,the former are preferable because of t
47、he larger gripping area which tendsto reduce slippage. While both sizes of gripping surface are permitted, theface sizes used must be the same for all samples in the test and must berecorded in the report.6.1.3 Front Jaws,256 1by256 1mm16 0.04 by 1 60.04 in.6.2 Sewing Machine, with any necessary acc
48、essories ca-pable of handling the test fabric and forming the requiredseam(s) and stitch types.D1683/D1683M 11a36.3 Sewing Threads, to be either of required type, materials,and tex size as determined by purchaser and supplier, or of thetype, materials, and tex size specified for standard seams inTab
49、le 1.6.4 Dividers, one pair.6.5 Metal Rule, graduated in 1-mm 0.03125-in. subdivi-sions.7. Sampling Manufactured Items7.1 Specimens can be taken from either previously sewnseam or from structures made with sewn seams as noted inTable 1, or using a seam assembly as agreed to betweenpurchaser and supplier.7.2 Lot Sample for Manufactured ItemsAs a lot samplefor acceptance testing, take at random, the number of shippingunits of manufactured items containing sewn seams as directed
