1、Designation: D1683/D1683M 11aD1683/D1683M 16Standard Test Method forFailure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1683/D1683M; the number immediately following the designation indicates theyear of original adoption or, in the case of revision, th
2、e year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of lastreapproval. A superscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.INTRODUCTIONThe structural integri
3、ty of textile products made of woven fabrics is dependent on how well thepieces that are cut from rolls of fabric have been joined together. To measure this integrity requiresunderstanding the inter-relationship between two distinct test methods.(a) The first evaluation is done by testing fabric usi
4、ng Test Method D5034. This standard is used to measure the resistance ofa woven fabric to rupture in the warp direction and, the filling yarn direction. The test method measures the force needed to rupturethe fabric causing the destruction of the fabric and the loss of its structural integrity. This
5、 loss of structural integrity causes yarnslippage, that is, the displacement and change of yarn spacing causing an irreversible fabric failure.(b) Before completing the second evaluation, an analysis and determination of the anticipated failure mode needs to becompleted by the fabric weaver or texti
6、le product manufacturer. While the failure mode for a woven fabric textile product sewnseam can demonstrate various and distinct levels, it is imperative to have agreement and understanding about the expectedperformance or service life of the end use product. Is the seam engineering used to build th
7、e textile product intended to performfor a “single incident” discarded and replaced, or is the end use product designed and engineered to be subjected to regular careand maintenance to include repairs?(c) The second evaluation is done by using this test method, D1683/D1683M, to test fabric sections
8、that have been cut and thensewn together using procedures that select a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch type, seam type, and stitch density. Theseare the seam engineering variables that determine which of the following outcomes can occur: (1) the fabric, at a force similar tothat when
9、tested using Test Method D5034, will rupture adjacent to the stitch line causing the destruction and loss of fabricintegrity, and the failure of the textile structure; (2) the sewing thread used in the specific stitch configuration will rupture, at a forceless than 85 % of the fabric break strength,
10、 such that the fabric integrity will be sufficient to enable repair of the textile structurealong the same axis.1. Scope1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength in woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn seams.NOTE 1The grab test procedure in Test Method D5034 shall b
11、e used to determine any characteristic in fabric that can affect the measurement of sewnseam strength.1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtained from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabric samplesusing either a specificThe axis perpendicular to the sewn seam can represe
12、nt either the warp yarn axis or filling yarn axis, the sameaxis tested when using grab Test Method D5034seam assembly (see .Table 1), or production seam assemblies.1.1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtained from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabric samplesusing one
13、of two specific seam assemblies as shown in Table 1.1.2 This test method is used when a the maximum breaking force to rupture, a minimum elongation, or both are required todetermine the sewn seam strength, seam slippage, or seam integrity of a particular fabric for a specified end use.measurement to
14、rupture of a woven fabric sewn seam is required.1.2.1 This test method is used when the seam efficiency measurement of a woven fabric sewn seam is required.1.2.2 This test method is used to identify the sewn seam strength threshold at which the failure of the stitching occurs, withoutdamage to the f
15、abric, so that the textile product can be repaired.1 This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.Current edition approved July 1, 2011Nov. 1, 2016. Published August 2011November 2016. Originally
16、 approved in 1990. Discontinued in 1999 and reinstated in 2004as D168304. Last previous edition approved in 2011 as D168311.11a. DOI: 10.1520/D1683_D1683M-11A.10.1520/D1683_D1683M-16.This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of w
17、hat changes have been made to the previous version. Becauseit may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current versionof the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered t
18、he official document.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States11.2.3 This test method is used to identify the force at which seam strength results in slippage and displacement of warp yarns,filling yarns, or any combination of t
19、hese yarns.NOTE 2This test method is used in conjunction with Test Method D5034, which is used to measure breaking force and elongation of textile fabrics.Sewn seams in woven fabrics can fail due to rupture, slippage, or any combination thereof. Rupture can be further categorized as failure or fabri
20、c, orsewing thread, or seam slippage.TABLE 1 Standard/Default Seam Assembly SpecificationAFabric: High Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Fine Count YarnsFabric Mass: # 4 oz/yd2 130 g/m2Procedure A Procedure BMass up to 270 g/m2 8 oz yd2 over 270 g/m2 8 oz yd2Mass up to 4 oz/yd2 130
21、g m2 up to 4 oz/yd2 130 g m2Seam allowance 13 mm 0.5 in. 16 mm 0.625 in.Seam allowance 13 mm 0.5 in. 13 mm 0.5 in.Needle:Size Metric 90 0.036 in. Metric 110 0.044 in.Finish chrome chromePoint thin ball (No.1/No. 23) medium ball (No. 23/No. 43)Sewing thread size:Cotton Tex 35 Tex 70Spun Polyester Tex
22、 60 (Mc 40/2) Tex 60 (Mc 40/2)Polyester-core Tex 40 Tex 60Seam Type Ssa-1 Ssa-1Stitch Type 301 301Stitch Type 301 401Stitch Density 4.7 12 stitches per centimetre 3.1 12 stitches per centimetre12 12 stitches per inch 8 12 stitches per inchFabric: Medium Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction mad
23、e of Fine to Medium Count YarnsFabric Mass: $ 4 oz/yd2 130 g/m2 # 8 oz/yd2 270 g/m2Procedure A Procedure BMass up to 270 g/m2 8 ozyd2 over 270 g/m2 8 ozyd2Mass 4 oz/yd2 130 g/m2 up to 8 oz/yd2 270 g/m2 4 oz/yd2 130 g/m2 up to 270 g/m2 8 oz/yd2 Seam Allowance 25 mm 1 in. 25 mm 1 in.Seam Allowance 13
24、mm 0.5 in. 13 mm 0.5 in.Needle:Size Metric 110 0.044 in. Metric 140 0.054 in.Size Metric 110 0.044 in. Metric 120Finish chrome chromePoint medium ball (No. 43/No. 44) medium ball (No. 43/No. 44)Point medium ball medium ballSewing Thread:Cotton Tex 70 Tex 105Spun Polyester Tex 80 (Mc 40/3) Tex 80 (Mc
25、 40/3)Polyester-core Tex 60 Tex 90Seam type SSn-2 SSn-2Seam type SSa-1 SSa-1Stitch type 301 301Stitch type 301 401Stitch density 4.7 12 stitches per centimetre 3.1 12 stitches per centimetre12 12 stitches per inch 8 12 stitches per inchFabric: Low Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of M
26、edium to Heavy Count YarnsFabric Mass: $ 8 oz/yd2 270 g/m2 # 12 oz/yd2 405 g/m2Mass up to 270 g/m2 8 ozyd2 over 270 g/m2 8 ozyd2Mass 8 oz/yd2 270 g/m2 up to 12 oz/yd2 405 g/m2 8 oz/yd2 270 g/m2 up to 12 oz/yd2 405 g/m2Seam allowance 40 mm 1.5 in. 40 mm 1.5 in.Seam allowance 13 mm 0.5 in. 13 mm 0.5 i
27、n.Needle:Size Metric 110 0.044 in. Metric 140 0.054 in.Size Metric 130 Metric 130Finish chrome chromePoint medium ball (No. 44) heavy ball (No. 45)Point medium ball medium ballSewing thread size:Cotton Tex 70 Tex 105Spun Polyester Tex 105 (Mc 40/4) Tex 105 (Mc 40/4)Polyester-core Tex 60 Tex 90Seam t
28、ype SSd-2 SSd-2Seam type Ssa-1 SSa-1Stitch type 401 401Stitch type 301 401Stitch density 4.7 12 stitches per centimetre 3.1 12 stitches per centimetreStitch density 4.7 12 stitches per centimetre 47 12 stitches per centimetre12 12 stitches per inch 8 12 stitches per inch12 12 stitches per inch 12.8
29、12 stitches per inchA A complete description of seam types and stitch types can be found in Practice D6193.D1683/D1683M 1621.3 This test method does not predict actual wear performance of a seam.1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. T
30、he values stated in eachsystem may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other. Combining values from thetwo systems may result in non-conformance with the standard.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associa
31、ted with its use. It is the responsibilityof the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatorylimitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for TextilesD123
32、 Terminology Relating to TextilesD1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing TextilesD5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)D5822 Test Method for Determining Seam Strength in Inflatable Restraint CushionsD6193 Practice for Stitches and SeamsD7722 Termino
33、logy Relating to Industrial Textile Stitches and Seams3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 needle damage, nin sewn fabrics, the partial or complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle passingthrough a fabric during sewing.3.1.2 seam allowance, nin sewn fabrics, the distance from the edg
34、e of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that edge.3.1.3 seam assembly, nthe composite structure obtained when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.3.1.3.1 DiscussionA seam assembly may be described in terms of fabric orientation, seam direction, seam type, stitch type, seam allowa
35、nce, sewingthread tex number(s) and type(s) stitch density, stitch gage, and rows of stitching.3.1.4 seam effciency, nin sewn fabrics, the ratio, expressed as a percentage, of the breaking force required to rupture a sewnseam to that required to rupture the fabric.3.1.5 seam engineering, nin sewn fa
36、brics, the procedures used to select a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch type,seam type, and stitch density to achieve the maximum sewn seam strength for a particular fabric type.3.1.6 seam failure, n in sewn fabrics, that point at which an external force (1) ruptures the sewing thread,
37、(2) ruptures thefabric, (3) causes excessive yarn slippage adjacent to the stitches, or (4) causes any combination of these unacceptable conditions.3.1.6.1 DiscussionDespite the lack of rupture, excessive seam slippage will either significantly reduce seam efficiency, or, result in an unsightlyappea
38、rance thus creating seam failure.3.1.7 seam slippage, nin sewn fabrics, a mode of failure in production seams.3.1.7.1 DiscussionShown as a transverse ratio of junction strength to fabric strength including the ratio of elongation of fabric to the ratio ofelongation at the junction. Seam slippage, oc
39、curs when fabric yarns parallel to the stitch line move away from the seam. It is causedby the yarns in the fabric pulling out from the stitch line, and manifests itself as a gaping opening. Any movement of the warpand weft yarns away from a seam line under transverse stresses, which exacerbate the
40、potential damage. (See yarn slippage.)3.1.8 seam type, nin sewn fabrics, an alphanumeric designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric positioningand rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabric seam.3.1.8.1 Discussion2 For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.
41、org, or contactASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standardsvolume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page on the ASTM website.D1683/D1683M 163The first two letters of the designation show seam type; the third and subsequent letters specify a particula
42、r mating alignment; thenumber designation indicates the number of rows of stitches.3.1.9 sewn seam, nin sewn fabrics, a juncture at which two or more planar structures such as textile fabrics, are joined bysewing, usually near the edge.3.1.10 sewn seam strength, nin sewn fabrics, the maximum resista
43、nce to rupture of the junction formed by stitching togethertwo or more planar structures.3.1.11 slippage, nin sewn fabrics, the displacement of one or more fabric yarns from their original position, so as to causedifferences in alignment, spacing or both.3.1.12 standard seam, na seam assembly which
44、uses a specific seam type for a designated fabric having specific weight,density and construction, as shown in Table 1.3.1.13 stitch, nin sewn seams, the repeated unit formed by the sewing thread(s) in the production of seams.3.1.14 stitch density, nin sewn fabrics, the number of stitches per unit l
45、ength in one row of stitching.3.1.15 stitch gage, n in sewn fabrics, the perpendicular distance between adjacent parallel rows of stitching.3.1.16 stitch type, na numerical designation relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing of sewing thread(s) ina specified stitch.3.1.16.1 Disc
46、ussionStitch types are described in Practice D6193.3.1.17 yarn slippage, na mode of failure of fabrics when sewn using a standard seam.3.1.17.1 DiscussionThe displacement of one or more fabric yarns from the original position(s) so as to cause differences in alignment and spacing ofboth yarns.3.1 De
47、finitions:3.2 The following terms are relevant to this standard: needle damage; seam allowance; seam assembly; seam efficiency; seamengineering; seam failure; seam slippage; seam type; sewn seam; sewn seam strength; slippage; standard seam; stitch; stitchdensity; stitch gage; stitch type; yarn slipp
48、age.3.3 For terminology related to seams and stitched, see Terminology D7722.3.4 For definitions of other textile terms used in this test method, refer to Terminology D123.4. Summary of Test Method4.1 This test method can also be used to measure seam slippage by subtracting the elongation of the fab
49、ric from that of the fabricwith a seam in it.4.1 The applied force is longitudinal and Sewn fabric sections are placed in a test machine so that an applied force,perpendicular to the seam.stitching, can be exerted until one of the following phenomena occur:4.1.1 Failure of sewing thread stitchline without damage to fabric (sewn seam strength) (seam efficiency).4.1.2 A force is applied until seam failure o
