1、Designation: D1683/D1683M 17 (Reapproved 2018)Standard Test Method forFailure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1683/D1683M; the number immediately following the designation indicates theyear of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year
2、 of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of lastreapproval. A superscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.INTRODUCTIONThe structural integrity of
3、textile products made of woven fabrics is dependent on how well thepieces that are cut from rolls of fabric have been joined together. To measure this integrity requiresunderstanding the inter-relationship between two distinct test methods.(a) The first evaluation is done by testing fabric using Tes
4、t Method D5034. This standard is used to measure the resistance ofa woven fabric to rupture in the warp direction and, the filling yarn direction. The test method measures the force needed to rupturethe fabric causing the destruction of the fabric and the loss of its structural integrity. This loss
5、of structural integrity causes yarnslippage, that is, the displacement and change of yarn spacing causing an irreversible fabric failure.(b) Before completing the second evaluation, an analysis and determination of the anticipated failure mode needs to becompleted by the fabric weaver or textile pro
6、duct manufacturer. While the failure mode for a woven fabric textile product sewnseam can demonstrate various and distinct levels, it is imperative to have agreement and understanding about the expectedperformance or service life of the end use product. Is the seam engineering used to build the text
7、ile product intended to performfor a “single incident” discarded and replaced, or is the end use product designed and engineered to be subjected to regular careand maintenance to include repairs?(c) The second evaluation is done by using this test method, D1683/D1683M, to test fabric sections that h
8、ave been cut and thensewn together using procedures that select a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch type, seam type, and stitch density. Theseare the seam engineering variables that determine which of the following outcomes can occur: (1) the fabric, at a force similar tothat when tested
9、 using Test Method D5034, will rupture adjacent to the stitch line causing the destruction and loss of fabricintegrity, and the failure of the textile structure; (2) the sewing thread used in the specific stitch configuration will rupture, at a forceless than 85 % of the fabric break strength, such
10、that the fabric integrity will be sufficient to enable repair of the textile structurealong the same axis.1. Scope1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength inwoven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewnseams.1.1.1 The axis perpendicular to the sewn seam can representeither
11、the warp yarn axis or filling yarn axis, the same axistested when using grab Test Method D5034.1.1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams ob-tained from a previously sewn article or seams sewn withfabric samples using one of two specific seam assemblies asshown in Table 1.1.2 This test met
12、hod is used when the maximum breakingforce measurement to rupture of a woven fabric sewn seam isrequired.1.2.1 This test method is used when the seam efficiencymeasurement of a woven fabric sewn seam is required.1.2.2 This test method is used to identify the sewn seamstrength threshold at which the
13、failure of the stitching occurs,without damage to the fabric, so that the textile product can berepaired.1.2.3 This test method is used to identify the force at whichseam strength results in slippage and displacement of warpyarns, filling yarns, or any combination of these yarns.1.3 This test method
14、 does not predict actual wear perfor-mance of a seam.1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound unitsare to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated ineach system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, eachsystem shall be used independently of the other. Combiningvalues fr
15、om the two systems may result in non-conformancewith the standard.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the1This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcom
16、mittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.Current edition approved March 15, 2018. Published April 2017. Originallyapproved in 1990. Last previous edition approved in 2017 as D1683171. DOI:10.1520/D1683_D1683M-17R18.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2
17、959. United StatesThis international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
18、 Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.1responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.1.6 This international standard was developed in accor-dance with internationa
19、lly recognized principles on standard-ization established in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards, Guides and Recom-mendations issued by the World Trade Organization TechnicalBarriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D76 Specific
20、ation for Tensile Testing Machines for TextilesD123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing TextilesD5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation ofTextile Fabrics (Grab Test)D6193 Practice for Stitches and SeamsD7722 Terminology Relating to Industrial Te
21、xtile Stitchesand SeamsE177 Practice for Use of the Terms Precision and Bias inASTM Test MethodsE691 Practice for Conducting an Interlaboratory Study toDetermine the Precision of a Test Method3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.2 The following terms are relevant to this standard: needledamage; seam allo
22、wance; seam assembly; seam efficiency;seam engineering; seam failure; seam slippage; seam type;sewn seam; sewn seam strength; slippage; standard seam;stitch; stitch density; stitch gage; stitch type; yarn slippage.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM C
23、ustomer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.TABLE 1 Standard/Default Seam Assembly SpecificationAFabric Mass: # 4 oz/yd2130 g/m2Procedure A Procedure BMass up to 4 oz/yd2130 g m2 up to 4 oz/y
24、d2130 g m2Seam allowance 13 mm 0.5 in. 13 mm 0.5 in.Needle:Size Metric 90 0.036 in. Metric 90 0.036 in.Finish chrome chromePoint thin ball (No. 1/No. 23) thin ball (No. 1/No. 23)Sewing thread size:Spun Polyester Tex 40 Tex 40Polyester-Core Tex 40 Tex 40Seam Type Ssa-1 Ssa-1Stitch Type 301 401Stitch
25、Density 4.7 12 stitches per centimetre 4.7 12 stitches per centimetre12 12 stitches per inch 12 12 stitches per inchFabric Mass: 4 oz/yd2130 g/m2 # 8 oz/yd2270 g/m2Procedure A Procedure BMass 4 oz/yd2130 g/m2 up to 8 oz/yd2270 g/m24 oz/yd2130 g/m2upto270g/m28 oz/yd2Seam Allowance 13 mm 0.5 in. 13 mm
26、 0.5 in.Needle:Size Metric 110 0.044 in. Metric 110 0.044 in.Finish chrome chromePoint ball ballSewing Thread:Spun Polyester Tex 60 Tex 60Polyester-Core Tex 60 Tex 60Seam type SSa-1 SSa-1Stitch type 301 401Stitch density 3.1 12 stitches per centimetre 3.1 12 stitches per centimetre8 12 stitches per
27、inch 8.5 12 stitches per inchFabric Mass: 8 oz/yd2270 g/m2 # 12 oz/yd2405 g/m2Mass 8 oz/yd2270 g/m2upto12oz/yd2405 g/m2 8 oz/yd2270 g/m2upto12oz/yd2405 g/m2Seam allowance 13 mm 0.5 in. 13 mm 0.5 in.Needle:Size Metric 120 Metric 120Finish chrome chromePoint ball ballSewing thread size:Spun Polyester
28、Tex 80 Tex 80Polyester-Core Tex 80 Tex 80Seam type Ssa-1 SSa-1Stitch type 301 401Stitch density 3.1 12 stitches per centimetre 3.1 12 stitches per centimetre8 12 stitches per inch 8.5 12 stitches per inchAA complete description of seam types and stitch types can be found in Practice D6193.NOTE 1When
29、 the performance of a woven textile structure requires data to indicate the maximum seam strength that will result in the failure of fabricon either side of seam, the standard seam can be changed to use the Lapped seam type construction with two or more rows of stitching: Lsc-2; Lsc-3;Lsc-4; and the
30、 maximum number of stitches per inch that can be used. (See Practice D6193.)D1683/D1683M 17 (2018)23.3 For terminology related to seams and stitched, seeTerminology D7722.3.4 For definitions of other textile terms used in this testmethod, refer to Terminology D123.4. Summary of Test Method4.1 Sewn f
31、abric sections are placed in a test machine so thatan applied force, perpendicular to the stitching, can be exerteduntil one of the following phenomena occur:4.1.1 Failure of sewing thread stitchline without damage tofabric (sewn seam strength) (seam efficiency).4.1.2 Failure caused by a force suffi
32、cient to stress the sewnseam and displace one or more fabric yarns from their originalposition so as to cause fabric failure due to difference inalignment, spacing, or both.5. Significance and Use5.1 The manufacturing of textile products uses seam engi-neering to determine the best combination of se
33、wing thread,stitch type, seam type, and stitch density to construct the enduse structure. These four seam engineering variables contributeto a textile product being able to achieve the maximum sewnseam strength performance and structural integrity when cutpieces of fabric are joined together.5.1.1 I
34、t is known that for some textile structures the seamengineering variables are selected to meet a “one time perfor-mance requirement.” This means that following the “singleincident” during which the maximum performance potential orcapability of the textile structure has been met, it is expected tobe
35、discarded and replaced with another “new” unit. Forexample: an inflatable restraint in an automobile. Oncedeployed, it must be replaced; it cannot be re-used. Likewise,there are other textile structures, intended to be used multipletimes, while also being subjected to various care and mainte-nance r
36、egimens.5.1.2 This test method enables the fabric producer of wovenfabrics, the textile producer, and other users of the test methodto determine which seam engineering choices can be maderelative to: sewing thread tex size; seam type; stitch type; andstitch density to determine the potential outcome
37、s that canoccur when a particular woven fabric is used:(a) What is the maximum force at which sewn seamstrength failure will enable products made with this fabric to berepaired?(b) What is the highest seam efficiency percentage at-tained?(c) What is the maximum force at which the sewn seamstrength r
38、esults in seam slippage that can cause yarn slippage,yarn displacement and fabric failure?5.1.2.1 The maximum force at which sewn seam strength orthe highest seam efficiency retained demonstrate failure of thestitching without causing the displacement of one or morefabric yarns from their original p
39、osition mean that the productcan be repaired. When the failure results in displacement ofyarns, the textile product will need to be replaced.5.1.3 The procedures used in this test method represent twoprimary seam engineering techniques identified in PracticeD6193 and used to manufacture products mad
40、e of woventextile fabrics.5.1.4 In case of dispute arising from differences in reportedtest results when using this test method for acceptance testingof commercial shipments, the purchaser and the suppliershould perform comparative tests to determine if there is astatistical bias between their labor
41、atories. Competent statisticalassistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As aminimum, the two parties should take a group of test speci-mens from the same lot of fabric to be evaluated, which utilizea like seam assembly (or standard seam assembly). The testspecimens should then be rand
42、omly assigned in equal numbersto each laboratory for testing. If a bias is found, either its causemust be determined and corrected, or the purchaser andsupplier must agree to interpret future test results in light of theknown bias.5.2 This test method can be used to determine the sewnseam strength a
43、nd sewn seam efficiency of a specified seamassembly with each fabric. Because sewn seam strength andsewn seam efficiency varies with each fabric, both of thestandard seam assemblies, noted in Table 1, should be usedwhen comparing the seam strength of different fabrics. Table 1lists the default seam
44、assembly specifications to be used forfabrics made with fine, medium and heavy count yarns. If adetermination cannot be made as to which seam is the bestsuited for a particular fabric, all should be evaluated.5.3 Seams prepared for this test method should be made bycompetent factory sewing operators
45、 familiar with the potentialfor damage to the integrity of the sewn seam when stitching isimproperly done.5.3.1 If competent factory sewing operators are notaccessible, a laboratory technician familiar with the potentialfor damage of an improperly sewn seam may prepare theseamed test specimens. It i
46、s imperative for purchaser/supplierto understand the impact an improperly sewn seam will haveon test results.5.4 This test method is applicable whenever a determinationof sewn seam strength is required. The breaking force of theseam and fabric will permit estimation of seam efficiency. Thistest meth
47、od can be used as an aid for estimating seam strengthfor any given fabric.5.5 Seam engineering techniques for specific fabric typescan also be determined by utilizing this test method.5.6 This test method can be used to determine when thesewn seam is affected by seam slippage. While the ultimatecons
48、equence of this phenomenon is rupture, seam slippagegreater than either the values stated in customer specifications,or as agreed upon by purchaser/supplier may severely reducethe integrity such that the product cannot be used for itsintended purpose.6. Apparatus6.1 Tensile Testing Machine, as used
49、in Test Method D5034conforming to Specification D76, and preferably a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type of machine capable of jawseparation rate of 305 6 10 mm/min 12.0 6 0.5 in./min andan interfaced computer response to record the force-extensionD1683/D1683M 17 (2018)3curve. When a CRE type of machine is not used, a constant-rate-of traverse (CRT) type of machine may be used. (See Note1.)NOTE 1In cases of dispute a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) typemachine should be used to referee te
