1、Designation: D 1683 07Standard Test Method forFailure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 1683; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A n
2、umber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.1. Scope1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength inwov
3、en fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewnseams.NOTE 1The grab test procedure in Test Method D 5034 shall be usedto determine any characteristic in fabric that can affect the measurement ofsewn seam strength.1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtainedfrom a previously s
4、ewn article or seams sewn with fabricsamples using either a specific seam assembly (see Table 1), orproduction seam assemblies.1.2 This test method is used when a breaking force torupture, a minimum elongation, or both are required todetermine the sewn seam strength, seam slippage, or seamintegrity
5、of a particular fabric for a specified end use.NOTE 2This test method is used in conjunction with Test MethodD 5034, which is used to measure breaking force and elongation of textilefabrics. Sewn seams in woven fabrics can fail due to rupture, slippage, orany combination thereof. Rupture can be furt
6、her categorized as failure orfabric, or sewing thread, or seam slippage.1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear perfor-mance of a seam.1.4 The values stated in either acceptable metric units (SI)or in other units shall be regarded separately as standard. Thevalues expressed in each system
7、may not be exact equivalents;therefore each system must be used independently of the other,without combining values in any way.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish a
8、ppro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for TextilesD 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Tex
9、tilesD 5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongationof Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)D 5822 Test Method for Determining Seam Strength inInflatable Restraint CushionsD 6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 needle damage, nin sewn fabrics, the partial orcomplete
10、yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needlepassing through a fabric during sewing.3.1.2 seam allowance, nin sewn fabrics, the distance fromthe edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from thatedge.3.1.3 seam assembly, nthe composite structure obtainedwhen fabric(s) are joined by
11、means of a seam.3.1.3.1 DiscussionA seam assembly may be described interms of fabric orientation, seam direction, seam type, stitchtype, seam allowance, sewing thread tex number(s) and type(s)stitch density, stitch gage, and rows of stitching.3.1.4 seam effciency, nin sewn fabrics, the ratio, ex-pre
12、ssed as a percentage, of the breaking force required torupture a sewn seam to that required to rupture the fabric.3.1.5 seam engineering, nin sewn fabrics, the proceduresused to select a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch1This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on
13、 Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.Current edition approved July 1, 2007. Published August 2007. Originallyapproved in 1990. Discontinued in 1999 and reinstated in 2004 as D 168304. Lastprevious edition approved in 2004 as D 168304.2For referenced ASTM
14、standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohock
15、en, PA 19428-2959, United States.type, seam type, and stitch density to achieve the maximumsewn seam strength for a particular fabric type.3.1.6 seam failure, nin sewn fabrics, that point at whichan external force (1) ruptures the sewing thread, (2) rupturesthe fabric, (3) causes excessive yarn slip
16、page adjacent to thestitches, or (4) causes any combination of these unacceptableconditions.3.1.6.1 DiscussionDespite the lack of rupture, excessiveseam slippage will either significantly reduce seam efficiency,or, result in an unsightly appearance thus creating seam failure.3.1.7 seam slippage, nin
17、 sewn fabrics, a mode of failurein production seams.3.1.7.1 DiscussionShown as a transverse ratio of junctionstrength to fabric strength including the ratio of elongation offabric to the ratio of elongation at the junction. Seam slippage,occurs when fabric yarns parallel to the stitch line move away
18、from the seam. It is caused by the yarns in the fabric pulling outfrom the stitch line, and manifests itself as a gaping opening.Any movement of the warp and weft yarns away from a seamline under transverse stresses, which exacerbate the potentialdamage. (See yarn slippage.)3.1.8 seam type, nin sewn
19、 fabrics, an alphanumeric des-ignation relating to the essential characteristics of fabricpositioning and rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabricseam.3.1.8.1 DiscussionThe first two letters of the designationshow seam type; the third and subsequent letters specify aparticular mating alignment;
20、the number designation indicatesthe number of rows of stitches.3.1.9 sewn seam, nin sewn fabrics, a juncture at whichtwo or more planar structures such as textile fabrics, are joinedby sewing, usually near the edge.3.1.10 sewn seam strength, nin sewn fabrics, the maxi-mum resistance to rupture of th
21、e junction formed by stitchingtogether two or more planar structures.3.1.11 slippage, nin sewn fabrics, the displacement of oneor more fabric yarns from their original position, so as to causedifferences in alignment, spacing or both.3.1.12 standard seam, na seam assembly which uses aspecific seam t
22、ype for a designated fabric having specificweight, density and construction, as shown in Table 1.TABLE 1 Standard/Default Seam Assembly SpecificationAFabric: High Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Fine Count YarnsMass up to 270 g/m2(8 oz/yd2) over 270 g/m2(8 oz/yd2)Seam allowance 13
23、 mm (0.5 in.) 16 mm (0.625 in.)Needle:Size Metric 90 (0.036 in.) Metric 110 (0.044 in.)Finish chrome chromePoint thin ball (No.1/No. 23) medium ball (No. 23/No. 43)Sewing thread size:Cotton Tex 35 Tex 70Polyester-core Tex 40 Tex 60Seam Type Ssa-1 Ssa-1Stitch Type 301 301Stitch Density 4.7 612 stitch
24、es per centimetre 3.1 612 stitches per centimetre(12 612 stitches per inch) (8 612 stitches per inch)Fabric: Medium Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Fine to Medium Count YarnsMass up to 270 g/m2(8 oz/yd2) over 270 g/m2(8 oz/yd2)Seam Allowance 25 mm (1 in.) 25 mm (1 in.)Needle:Size
25、Metric 110 (0.044 in.) Metric 140 (0.054 in.)Finish chrome chromePoint medium ball (No. 43/No. 44) medium ball (No. 43/No. 44)Sewing Thread:Cotton Tex 70 Tex 105Polyester-core Tex 60 Tex 90Seam type SSn-2 SSn-2Stitch type 301 301Stitch density 4.7 612 stitches per centimetre 3.1 612 stitches per cen
26、timetre(12 612 stitches per inch) (8 612 stitches per inch)Fabric: Low Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Medium to Heavy Count YarnsMass up to 270 g/m2(8 oz/yd2) over 270 g/m2(8 oz/yd2)Seam allowance 40 mm (1.5 in.) 40 mm (1.5 in.)Needle:Size Metric 110 (0.044 in.) Metric 140 (0.054
27、 in.)Finish chrome chromePoint medium ball (No. 44) heavy ball (No. 45)Sewing thread size:Cotton Tex 70 Tex 105Polyester-core Tex 60 Tex 90Seam type SSd-2 SSd-2Stitch type 401 401Stitch density 4.7 612 stitches per centimetre 3.1 612 stitches per centimetre(12 612 stitches per inch) (8 612 stitches
28、per inch)AA complete description of seam types and stitch types can be found in Practice D 6193.D16830723.1.13 stitch, nin sewn seams, the repeated unit formed bythe sewing thread(s) in the production of seams.3.1.14 stitch density, nin sewn fabrics, the number ofstitches per unit length in one row
29、of stitching.3.1.15 stitch gage, nin sewn fabrics, the perpendiculardistance between adjacent parallel rows of stitching.3.1.16 stitch type, na numerical designation relating to theessential characteristics of the interlacing of sewing thread(s)in a specified stitch.3.1.16.1 DiscussionStitch types a
30、re described in PracticeD 6193.3.1.17 yarn slippage, na mode of failure of fabrics whensewn using a standard seam.3.1.17.1 DiscussionThe displacement of one or morefabric yarns from the original position(s) so as to causedifferences in alignment and spacing of both yarns.3.2 For definitions of other
31、 textile terms used in this testmethod, refer to Terminology D 123.4. Summary of Test Method4.1 This test method can also be used to measure seamslippage by subtracting the elongation of the fabric from that ofthe fabric with a seam in it.4.2 The applied force is longitudinal and perpendicular tothe
32、 seam.4.2.1 A force is applied until seam failure occurs.5. Significance and Use5.1 This test method can also be used to determine either thesewn seam strength of textiles or the efficiency of a seamassembly with any given fabric. Additionally, the seamstrengths of different fabrics can be compared
33、directly by usingone of the standard seam assemblies specified in Table 1.Because current information about laboratory precision isincomplete, comparative tests may be advisable.5.1.1 In case of dispute arising from differences in reportedtest results when using this test method for acceptance testi
34、ngof commercial shipments, the purchaser and the suppliershould perform comparative tests to determine if there is astatistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statisticalassistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As aminimum, the two parties should take a group of test spec
35、i-mens from the same lot of fabric to be evaluated, which utilizea like seam assembly (or standard seam assembly). The testspecimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbersto each laboratory for testing. If a bias is found, either its causemust be determined and corrected, or the purchaser
36、 andsupplier must agree to interpret future test results in light of theknown bias.5.2 This test method determines the seam efficiency of aspecified seam assembly with each fabric. Because seamefficiency varies with each fabric, one of the standard seamassemblies, as noted in Table 1, should be used
37、 when compar-ing the seam strength of different fabrics. Table 1 lists thedefault seam assembly specifications to be used for fabricsmade with fine, medium and heavy count yarns. If a determi-nation cannot be made as to which seam is the best suited fora particular fabric, all should be evaluated.5.
38、3 Seams prepared for this test method should be made bycompetent factory sewing operators familiar with the potentialfor damage to the integrity of the sewn seam when stitching isimproperly done. (See Note 2.)NOTE 3If competent factory sewing operators are not accessible, alaboratory technician fami
39、liar with the potential for damage of animproperly sewn seam may prepare the seamed test specimens. It isimperative for purchaser/supplier to understand the impact an improperlysewn seam will have on test results.)5.4 This test method is applicable whenever a determinationof effective sewn seam stre
40、ngth, that is, the optimum seaminteraction, is required. The breaking force of the seam andfabric will permit determination of seam efficiency. This testmethod can aid in determining optimum seam interaction forany given fabric by comparing the properties of the fabric withand without seams.5.5 Seam
41、 engineering techniques for specific fabric typescan also be determined by utilizing this test method.5.6 This test method can be used to determine when thesewn seam is affected by seam slippage. While the ultimateconsequence of this phenomenon is rupture, seam slippagegreater than either the values
42、 stated in customer specifications,or as agreed upon by purchaser/supplier may severely reducethe integrity such that the product cannot be used for itsintended purpose. (An example of a commonly used seamslippage value is 6 mm 0.25 in.).6. Apparatus6.1 Tensile Testing Machine, as used in Test Metho
43、d D 5034conforming to Specification D76, and preferably a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type of machine capable of jawseparation rate of 305 6 10 mm/min (12.0 6 0.5 in./min) andan adequate pen or interfaced computer response to record theforce-extension curve. When a CRE type of machine is notuse
44、d, a constant-rate-of traverse (CRT) type of machine. (SeeNote 4.)NOTE 4In cases of dispute a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) typemachine should be used to referee testing. Because of the biases betweentest results for these types of tensile testing machine, report the name, typeand date of calibra
45、tion of the machine used.)6.1.1 At least one clamp should be supported by a freeswivel or universal joint to allow the clamp to rotate in theplane of the fabric.6.1.2 Back Jaws, 25 mm (1 in.), parallel to direction of forceapplication by not less than 50 mm (2 in.) perpendicular todirection of force
46、 application. (See Note 5.)NOTE 5Front (or top) faces measuring 25 by 50 mm (1.0 by 2.0 in.)will not necessarily give the same value as 25 by 25 mm (1.0 by 1.0 in.)faces. For many materials, the former are preferable because of the largergripping area which tends to reduce slippage. While both sizes
47、 of grippingsurface are permitted, the face sizes used must be the same for all samplesin the test and must be recorded in the report.6.1.3 Front Jaws, 25 by 25 mm (1 by 1 in.).6.2 Sewing Machine, with any necessary accessories ca-pable of handling the test fabric and forming the requiredseam(s) and
48、 stitch types.D16830736.3 Sewing Threads, to be either of required type, materials,and tex size as determined by purchaser and supplier, or of thetype, materials, and tex size specified for standard seams inTable 1.6.4 Dividers, one pair.6.5 Metal Rule, graduated in 1-mm (0.03125-in.) subdivi-sions.
49、7. Sampling Manufactured Items7.1 Specimens can be taken from either previously sewnseam or from structures made with sewn seams as noted inTable 1, or using a seam assembly as agreed to betweenpurchaser and supplier.7.2 Lot Sample for Manufactured ItemsAs a lot samplefor acceptance testing, take at random, the number of shippingunits of manufactured items containing sewn seams as directedin a material specification or other agreement between thepurchaser and the supplier. (See Note 6.)NOTE 6An adequate specification or other agreement bet
