1、Designation: D 3181 95 (Reapproved 2002)Standard Guide forConducting Wear Tests on Textiles1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3181; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A nu
2、mber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This guide is designed to provide data on which aprediction can be based concerning the expected wear perfor-mance of a wide variety of
3、textiles in end-use conditions.1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitatio
4、ns prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles2D 1335 Test Method for Tuft Bind of Pile Floor Coverings2D 1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of WovenFabrics2D 2051 Test Method for Durability of Finish of Zippers toLaundering2D 2052 Test Metho
5、d for Colorfastness of Zippers to Dry-cleaning2D 2057 Test Method for Colorfastness of Zippers to Laun-dering2D 2058 Test Method for Durability of Finish of Zippers toDrycleaning2D 2062 Test Method for Operability of Zippers2D 2401 Test Method for Service Change of Appearance ofPile Floor Coverings3
6、D 2960 Test Method of Controlled Laundering Test UsingNaturally Soiled Fabrics and Household Appliances4D 3511 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-lated Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Brush PillingTester Method5D 3512 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-lated Surface Cha
7、nges of Textile Fabrics: Random TumblePilling Tester Method5D 3514 Test Method for Resistance of Apparel Fabrics toPilling (Elastomeric Pad Method)5D 3597 Performance Specification for Woven UpholsteryFabricsPlain, Tufted, or Flocked5D 3884 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of TextileFabrics (Rota
8、ry Platform, Double-Head Method)5D 3885 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of TextileFabrics (Flexing and Abrasion Method)5D 3886 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of TextileFabrics (Inflated Diaphragm Method)5D 3936 Test Method for Delamination Strength of Second-ary Backing of Pile Floor Coveri
9、ngs5D 3938 Guide for Evaluation of Textile Products in Relationto Refurbishing Described on Care Labels5D 3939 Test Method for Snagging Resistance of Fabrics(Mace Test Method)5D 4157 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of TextileFabrics (Oscillatory Cylinder Method)5D 4158 Test Method for Abrasion R
10、esistance of TextileFabrics (Uniform Abrasion Method)5D 4231 Practice for Evaluation of Mens and Boys HomeLaunderable Woven Dress Shirts and Sport Shirts5D 4390 Practice for Evaluating of the Performance of TerryBathroom Products for Household Use5D 4720 Practice for Evaluation of the Performance of
11、 SoftWindow Coverings5D 4721 Practice for Evaluating the Performance of Wovenand Knit Machine Washable and Drycleanable Bedcover-ings and Accessories5D 4852 Practice for Evaluation of Attached UpholsteryFabrics52.2 AATCC Standards:5 Evaluation Procedure: Subjective Evaluation of FabricHand68 Colorfa
12、stness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method688B Appearance of Seams in Wash-and-Wear Items AfterHome Laundering688C Appearance of Creases in Wash-and-Wear Items AfterHome Laundering696 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven and1This guide is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textil
13、es andis the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.53 on Practices.Current edition approved Feb. 15, 1989. Published April 1995. Originallypublished as D 3181 73 T. Last previous edition D 3181 89.2Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.3Discontinued; see 1992 Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vo
14、l 07.01.4Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 15.04.5Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.02.6Annual AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association ofTextile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO
15、Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.Knitted Textiles (Excluding Wool)6119 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): ScreenWire Method6120 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): EmeryMethod6121 Carpet Soiling: Visual Rating Method6122 Carpet Soiling: Service Soiling M
16、ethod6123 Carpet Soiling: Accelerated Soiling Method6124 Appearance of Fabrics After Repeated Home Launder-ings6128 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance Method6130 Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method6150 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Woven Garments6158 Dimensional Changes
17、 on Drycleaning in Perchloroeth-ylene: Machine Method6163 Color Fastness: Dye Transfer in Storage: Fabric-to-Fabric62.3 Other Documents:Knit Upholstery Fabric Standards and Guidelines7Woven Upholstery Fabric Standards and Guidelines83. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 control textile, na textile hav
18、ing a known history,the performance of which in a specific end-use has beenestablished previously, and which is used as a standard ofcomparison.3.1.2 end-use, nin wear testing, the use for which a textileis intended.3.1.3 evaluation period, nthe period of time an item isused before being evaluated o
19、n the specific performanceproperties.3.1.4 grade, nin textile testing, the symbol for any step ofa multistep standard reference scale, for a quality characteris-tic.3.1.4.1 DiscussionThe grade is assigned to test specimenexhibiting a degree of the quality comparable to that step of thestandard. Nume
20、rical grades assigned to different specimensfrom a sample, or by different observers are commonlyaveraged (AATCC).3.1.5 participant, n in wear testing, any individual thatuses a test or control textile during a wear test.3.1.5.1 DiscussionThe term does not include additionalpersonnel contributing ot
21、her services needed to carry out a test.3.1.6 performance property, n in wear testing, any chemi-cal or physical property of a fiber, yarn, or fabric that isevaluated during the wear-refurbishing cycles.3.1.7 rating, nin textile testing, the process for determin-ing or assigning a grade to a materia
22、l by comparing it to astandard reference scale.3.1.8 wear level, nthe number of wear-refurbishing cyclesto which an item has been subjected.3.1.9 wear-refurbishing cycle, nfor a specific wear testingprogram, one complete series of events that may be terminatedby laundering or dry cleaning.3.1.9.1 Di
23、scussionA description of a wear-refurbishingcycle usually includes the number of hours worn or used andthe number of wearing or uses an item receives prior torefurbishing (that is, laundering or drycleaning), or both.3.1.10 wear-service condition, nthe specific conditionsunder which a textile is use
24、d.3.1.11 wear test, na test in which textiles are subjected towear-service conditions and evaluated for performance.3.1.12 For definitions of other textile terms used in thispractice, refer to Terminology D 123.4. Summary of Guide4.1 Textiles are subjected to actual wear under serviceconditions. Thi
25、s practice recommends a control textile havinga known wear performance history to be included with otheritems being tested. Statistical methods for design of test andanalysis of data are included that are applicable to all weartests. Standard procedures for evaluation of textiles are pro-vided.5. Si
26、gnificance and Use5.1 This guide may be used to evaluate textiles used inapparel, upholstered furniture, floor coverings, window treat-ments, and bed, bath and table linens.5.2 This guide may be used for several purposes:5.2.1 To determine the comparative performance of new orexisting products,5.2.2
27、 To determine the suitability of current products indifferent end-uses, and5.2.3 To evaluate and compare the effect of wear of con-struction details as well as specific fabrics, fibers, dyeings,finishing, fabrication techniques, etc.5.3 This guide provides for flexibility in design and evalu-ation s
28、ince the information sought from each wear test willvary (see Appendix X1).5.4 This guide may be used to compare the wear perfor-mance of two or more textiles when these are included in thesame test, or to compare a textile whose properties have notbeen evaluated with one having a known performance
29、history.6. Apparatus6.1 Viewing Board, with standard lighting, as specified inAATCC 124.6.2 Smoothness Appearance Replicas, as specified inAATCC 124.6.3 Gray Scale for Color Change, as specified in AATCCEvaluation Procedure 1.96.4 Soil Release Replicas, as specified in AATCC 130-1981.6.5 Pilling Sta
30、ndards, as specified in Test Method D 3512.6.6 Seam Puckering Standards, as specified in AATCC88B-1984.6.7 Crease Retention Standards, as specified in AATCC88C.7Issued in 1982 by the Joint-Industry Fabric Standards Committee. Availablefrom the American Furniture Mfrs. Assc., P. O. Box Hp-7, High Poi
31、nt, NC 27261.8Re-issued in 1986 by the Joint-Industry Fabric Standards Committee. Availablefrom the American Furniture Mfrs. Assc., P. O. Box Hp-7, High Point, NC 27261.9This is the same as ISO R105/1, Part 2.D 3181 95 (2002)26.8 Photographic Standards for Evaluating Shirt Compo-nents (collar, pocke
32、t, placket), as specified in Practice D 4231.6.9 Work Sheets, to record data (see Fig. 1).7. Sampling, Selection, and Number of Specimens7.1 Division into LotsFor acceptance testing, divide theproduct into lots as agreed upon between the purchaser and thesupplier.7.2 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for ac
33、ceptance testing,take at random the number of shipping cartons directed in anapplicable material specification or other agreement betweenthe purchaser and the supplier.NOTE 1A realistic specification or other agreement between thepurchaser and the supplier requires taking into account the variabilit
34、ybetween shipping cartons, between items within a carton, and betweenspecimens within an item so as to provide a sampling plan which has ameaningful producers risk, meaningful consumers risk, acceptablequality level, and limiting quality level.7.3 Laboratory SampleAs a laboratory sample for accep-ta
35、nce testing, take at least two items from each shipping cartonin the lot sample.7.4 Test SpecimensTake test specimens from each item inthe laboratory sample as directed in the individual test methodsor as agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier.Perform each test on the product as it will
36、reach the consumer.8. Procedure8.1 Decide on the type and design of the textile to be tested.8.2 Define the objectives of the test clearly.8.3 List the information to be obtained from the test.8.4 Select the performance properties that must be evaluatedto obtain the necessary information. See Table
37、1.8.5 Decide which specific areas of the textile will beevaluated for each property. See Table 2.8.6 Establish how each performance property will be evalu-ated and what rating scale will be used.8.7 For each performance property, decide what test valueor grade will constitute a satisfactory or unsat
38、isfactory perfor-mance to meet the objectives of the test (see Note 2).NOTE 2These values are established based on experience and mayvary with end use. There are generally accepted techniques or referencesfor establishing these values.8.8 Identify which evaluation procedures are destructiveand nonde
39、structive. Nondestructive evaluations can occur dur-ing the total wear period at predetermined times. Destructiveevaluations should occur at the end of the total wear period,unless additional textile items are included in the initial weartest plan for withdrawal and destructive testing.8.9 Establish
40、 the wear period at which time the test isterminated automatically.8.10 Alternatively, establish the percentage of specimensthat must fail to constitute overall unsatisfactory performance.Terminate the test when the established level for failure hasbeen reached (see Note 2).8.11 Establish the number
41、 of wear-refurbishing cycles thatwill constitute overall satisfactory performance. The wear testmay be terminated at this point even though no specimen mayhave failed.8.12 Define the use-refurbishing cycle by establishing thenumber of hours (days) worn or used, and the number of usesWear Test Identi
42、fication Number _Wear Level _Fabric Identification _PARTICIPANTS1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 etc.Evaluation DateTimes WornHours WornTimes RefurbishedAbrasionBaggingColor ChangeCrease RetentionDimensional StabilityFabric SmoothnessHoles% Length Change% Width ChangePillingSeam PuckeringSnaggingWashdown (Hand)
43、Wear WrinklingEtc.FIG. 1 Wear Test Work SheetD 3181 95 (2002)3the textile will receive before refurbishing, or both, and themethod by which the item will be refurbished.8.13 Select a suitable control textile to include in the test asa standard of comparison.8.14 Based on the number of conditions bei
44、ng tested, aswell as the time and cost involved, develop a suitable designfor the wear test (see Appendix X1).8.15 Decide on, and arrange for, the number of participantsneeded to conduct the test according to the selected plan.8.16 Determine the exact sizes of the garments or othertextiles required
45、for each participant.8.17 Decide on the style, color, etc., of the textiles to bewear tested to reach the objective.8.18 When garments or other textiles are manufactured,determine the necessary yardage and provide for extra yardageto be used for laboratory tests.8.19 Secure the required number of te
46、xtiles and perma-nently label each with a code that identifies both the textile andthe participant. Suggest that one textile of each type be retainedin its new condition for comparison with the used textiles.8.20 Issue the textiles to the proper participant along withwritten instructions regarding h
47、ow the textile is to be used(worn) and cared for, as well as when it is to be returned forevaluation.8.21 After each wear-refurbishing cycle or wear period hasbeen completed, evaluate the textiles for previously specifiedperformance properties. Where visual ratings are involved, it isrecommended tha
48、t three trained observers be used. Record thetest value or grade for each property on a separate form tofacilitate statistical analysis of the data. See Fig. 1.8.22 Continue to wear-test and evaluate the textiles until thepredetermined endpoint of the test has been reached. Surveysmay be conducted t
49、o determine the participants opinions ofthe textiles being tested.NOTE 3Use as a guide in the evaluation of the textile, the practicesand guides developed by Subcommittees D13.54, D13.56, D 13.61, andD13.63, such as D 3938, D 4231, and D 4390, if applicable.9. Interpretation of Results9.1 Following each evaluation, analyze the data statisticallyusing one or more of the types of methods listed in 9.1.1-9.1.6(methods for statistical analysis may be found in the litera-ture,10or other statistical te
