1、Designation: D3181 151Standard Guide forConducting Wear Tests on Textiles1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3181; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses
2、 indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1NOTESection 5.1 was revised editorially in October 2015.1. Scope1.1 This guide is intended to provide guidance for thedesign of an experiment for the purpose of develo
3、ping aprediction of expected wear performance of apparel and textileproducts when exposed to actual use conditions.1.2 This guide recommends the use of a product for whicha history of its performance is known from laboratory testingand consumer use as the basis for statistical significance of newpro
4、ducts performance, however, other design or experimentalapproaches may be used.1.3 The wide variety of textile products and the conditionsunder which consumers will use products prevents the inclu-sion of all types of wear trial experiments for research anddevelopment, product innovation studies, an
5、d special needssuch as those for healthcare industry or military.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the appl
6、ica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:22.1.1 Fabric and Apparel Tests:D2051 Test Method for Durability of Finish of Zippers toLaunderingD2052 Test Method for Colorfastness of Zippers to Dry-cleaningD2057 Test Method for Colorfastness of Zippers t
7、o Laun-deringD2058 Test Method for Durability of Finish of Zippers toDrycleaningD2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by theTongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)D2594 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted FabricsHaving Low PowerD3107 T
8、est Methods for Stretch Properties of Fabrics Wo-ven from Stretch YarnsD3511 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other RelatedSurface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Brush Pilling TesterD3512 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other RelatedSurface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random TumblePilling
9、TesterD3514 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other RelatedSurface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Elastomeric PadD3884 Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics(Rotary Platform, Double-Head Method)D3885 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of TextileFabrics (Flexing and Abrasion Method)D3886
10、 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of TextileFabrics (Inflated Diaphragm Apparatus)D3938 Guide for Determining or Confirming Care Instruc-tions for Apparel and Other Textile ProductsD3939 Test Method for Snagging Resistance of Fabrics(Mace)D4157 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of TextileFabric
11、s (Oscillatory Cylinder Method)D4231 Practice for Evaluation of Launderable Woven DressShirts and Sports ShirtsD4390 Practice for Evaluation of the Performance of TerryBathroom Products for Household Use (Withdrawn1994)3D4966 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of TextileFabrics (Martindale Abrasion
12、 Tester Method)D4970 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other RelatedSurface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Martindale TesterD5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation ofTextile Fabrics (Grab Test)D5035 Test Method for Breaking Force and Elongation ofTextile Fabrics (Strip Method)1This
13、guide is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles andis the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.60 on Fabric Test Methods,Specific.Current edition approved July 1, 2015. Published September 2015. Originallyapproved in 1973. Last previous edition approved in 2010 as D3181 10. DO
14、I:10.1520/D3181-15.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this histori
15、cal standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States1D6321 Practice for the Evaluation of Machine WashableT-ShirtsD6797 Test Method for Bursting Strength of FabricsConstant-Rate-of-Extension (CRE)
16、Ball Burst TestD6828 Test Method for Stiffness of Fabric by Blade/SlotProcedure2.1.2 Other ASTM Standards:D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric TestMethodsD7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel2.2 AATCC Standards:42.2.1 Colorfastness and Physical Proper
17、ties:8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated88B Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics After Repeated HomeLaundering88C Appearance of Creases in Wash-and-Wear Items AfterHome Laundering96 Dimensi
18、onal Changes in Commercial Laundering ofWoven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool)116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod117 Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing)124 Appearance of Fabrics After Repeated Home Launder-ing125 Colorfastness to Perspiration and Light128 Wrin
19、kle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance Method130 Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method135 Dimensional Changes of Fabric after Home Laundering143 Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Productsafter Repeated Home Laundering150 Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laun-dering179 Skewness Cha
20、nge in Fabric Resulting from HomeLaundering183 Transmittance or Blocking of Erythemally WeightedUltraviolet Radiation through Fabrics186 Weather Resistance: UV Light and Moisture Exposure192 Weather Resistance of Textiles: Sunshine-Arc LampExposure With and Without Wetting202 Relative Hand Value of
21、Textiles: Instrumental Method2.2.2 Vapor, Water and Moisture Management Tests:22 Water Repellency: Spray Test35 Water Resistance: Rain Test42 Water Resistance: Impact Penetration70 Water Repellency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption Test79 Absorbency of Textiles127 Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure
22、 Test193 Aqueous Liquid Repellency: Water/Alcohol SolutionResistance Test195 Liquid Moisture Management Properties of TextilesFabrics197 Vertical Wicking of Textiles198 Horizontal Wicking Textiles199 Drying Time of Textiles: Moisture Analyzer Method200 Drying Rate of Textiles at their Absorbant Capa
23、city: AirFlow Method201 Drying Rate of Fabrics: Heated Hot Plate Method2.2.3 Evaluation Procedures:EP1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEP2 Gray Scale for StainingEP5 Fabric Hand: Guidelines for Subjective EvaluationEP6 Instrumental Color MeasurementEP7 Instrumental Assessment of the Change in Color of aT
24、est SpecimenEP8 AATCC 9Step Chromatic Transference ScaleEP9 Visual Assessment of Color Difference of TextilesEP12 Instrumental Assessment of Degree of Staining2.2.4 AATCC Monographs:M5 Standardization of Hand Laundering for Fabrics andTextilesM6 Standardization of Home Laundering Test Conditions3. T
25、erminology3.1 For all terms relating to D13.60 Fabric Test Methods,Specific, refer to Terminology D4850; for terms related toD13.61 Apparel, refer to Terminology D7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:control textile, end-use, evaluation period, grade, participant,performance
26、property, rating, wear level, wear-refurbishingcycle, wear-service condition, wear test.3.2 For all other terminology related to textiles, see Termi-nology D123.4. Summary of Guide4.1 Textiles are subjected to actual wear under serviceconditions. This practice recommends a control textile havinga kn
27、own wear performance history to be included with otheritems being tested. Statistical methods for design of test andanalysis of data are included that are applicable to all weartests. Standard procedures for evaluation of textiles are pro-vided.5. Significance and Use5.1 This guide may be used to ev
28、aluate textiles used inapparel.5.2 This guide may be used for several purposes:5.2.1 To determine the comparative performance of new orexisting products,5.2.2 To determine the suitability of current products indifferent end-uses, and5.2.3 To evaluate and compare the effect of wear of con-struction d
29、etails as well as specific fabrics, fibers, dyeings,finishing, fabrication techniques, etc.5.3 This guide provides for flexibility in design and evalu-ation since the information sought from each wear test willvary (see Appendix X1).5.4 This guide may be used to compare the wear perfor-mance of two
30、or more textiles when these are included in the4Annual AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association ofTextile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709,www.aatcc.org.D3181 1512same test, or to compare a textile whose properties have notbeen evaluated wit
31、h one having a known performance history.5.5 The standard test methods and guides listed in 2.1 and2.2 are not to be considered as limited to only those cited. It isrecognized that textile innovations of chemistries on fibers andfabrics may require the use of other standards methods ormodifications
32、to existing standards. Further, product develop-ment efforts within companies may call for the use of internalprocedures when investigation of worthiness of the innovationor prediction of consumer preference or satisfaction is ques-tioned.6. Apparatus and Facilities6.1 Laboratory Equipment, to perfo
33、rm designed tests.6.2 Facilities for Conditioning Textiles.6.2.1 Environmental Chambers, if required.6.2.2 Facilitiesfor participants to be interviewed, fill outworksheets, change clothes, etc.6.3 Work Sheets, to record data (see Fig. 1).7. Sampling, Selection, and Number of Specimens7.1 Division in
34、to LotsFor acceptance testing, divide theproduct into lots as agreed upon between the purchaser and thesupplier.7.2 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing, takeat random the number of shipping cartons directed in anapplicable material specification or other agreement betweenthe purchaser a
35、nd the supplier.NOTE 1A realistic specification or other agreement between thepurchaser and the supplier requires taking into account the variabilitybetween shipping cartons, between items within a carton, and betweenspecimens within an item so as to provide a sampling plan which has ameaningful pro
36、ducers risk, meaningful consumers risk, acceptablequality level, and limiting quality level.7.3 Laboratory SampleAs a laboratory sample for accep-tance testing, take at least two items from each shipping cartonin the lot sample.7.4 Test SpecimensTake test specimens from each item inthe laboratory sa
37、mple as directed in the individual test methodsor as agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier.Perform each test on the product as it will reach the consumer.7.5 For some wear trials where two elements of a textile arebeing evaluated for specific benefits, a laboratory specimenmight require
38、 a test garment to be made with one full side fromfabric with one application (fiber content, or other elementunder consideration) and the other full side having the un-treated (fiber content or other element) to be compared by astudy participant.8. Procedure8.1 Define the objectives of the test.8.2
39、 List the information to be obtained from the test.8.3 Determine the type and design of the textile product(s)to be tested.8.4 Select the performance properties to be evaluated toobtain the necessary information. See Table 1.Wear Test Identification Number _Wear Level _Fabric Identification _PARTICI
40、PANTS12345678910etc.Evaluation DateTimes WornHours WornTimes RefurbishedAbrasionBaggingColor ChangeCrease RetentionDimensional StabilityFabric SmoothnessHoles% Length Change% Width ChangePillingSeam PuckeringSnaggingWashdown (Hand)Wear WrinklingEtc.FIG. 1 Example of a Wear Test Work SheetD3181 15138
41、.4.1 The physical properties listed in Table 1 are not to beconsidered exhaustive but rather as illustrative. Standard testmethods are sometimes modified to address new textile inno-vations. Also, research and product development activitieswithin companies necessitate the creation of new evaluations
42、or procedures, and while not approved by standards developingorganizations, are useful in select circumstances for wear trials.8.5 Select the specific areas of the textile that will beevaluated for each property. See Table 2.8.5.1 Some wear trials may be designed to evaluate gar-ments in the environ
43、ment in which the items will be used orworn to determine consumer perceptions of acceptance orrelative approval. In such cases, areas of evaluation may begeneral areas on contact with skin, as in wear trials intended toevaluate perceptions of comfort during use.8.6 Establish how each performance pro
44、perty will be evalu-ated and what rating scale will be used.8.7 For each performance property, decide what test valueor grade will constitute a satisfactory or unsatisfactory perfor-mance to meet the objectives of the test.8.8 Identify which evaluation procedures are destructiveand nondestructive. N
45、ondestructive evaluations can occur dur-ing the total wear period at predetermined times. Destructiveevaluations should occur at the end of the total wear period,unless additional textile items are included in the initial weartest plan for withdrawal and destructive testing.8.9 Establish the wear pe
46、riod at which time the test isterminated automatically.8.10 Alternatively, establish the percentage of specimensthat must fail to constitute overall unsatisfactory performance.Terminate the test when the established level for failure hasbeen reached.8.11 Establish the number of wear-refurbishing cyc
47、les thatwill constitute overall satisfactory performance. The wear testmay be terminated at this point even though no specimen mayhave failed.8.12 Define the use-refurbishing cycle by establishing thenumber of hours (days) worn or used, and the number of usesthe textile will receive before refurbish
48、ing, or both, and themethod by which the item will be refurbished.8.13 Select a suitable control textile to include in the test asa standard of comparison.8.14 Based on the number of conditions being tested, aswell as the time and cost involved, develop a suitable designfor the wear test. (See Appen
49、dix X1 for examples of somestatistical experimental designs, however other designs anddata analysis may be used (see 9.1.7).8.15 Decide on, and arrange for, the number of participantsneeded to conduct the test according to the selected plan.8.16 Determine the exact sizes of the garments or othertextiles required for each participant.8.17 Decide on the style, color, etc., of the textiles to bewear tested to reach the objective.8.18 When garments or other textiles are manufactured,determine the necessary yard
