1、Designation: D 3655 02 (Reapproved 2008)Standard Performance Specification forMens and Womens Sliver Knitted Overcoat and JacketFabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3655; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case
2、of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers mens and wom-ens sliver knitted overcoat and jacket fab
3、rics composed of anytextile fiber or mixture of textile fibers.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.4 The following safet
4、y hazards caveat pertains only to thetest methods portion, Section 7, of this specification: Thisstandard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish appropriate safety and healthpractices a
5、nd determine the applicability of regulatory limita-tions prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor Textiles3D 3786 Test Met
6、hod for Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test2.2 AATCC Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastne
7、ss to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial Accelerated107 Colorfastness to Water116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Du
8、rable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic Transfe
9、renceScale2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety Commis-sion, Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act RegulationsNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each
10、test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 fabric, sliver-knitted, na single-jersey fabric inwhich untwisted staple fibers are knitted in at each loop to forma pile surface on the technical back of the jersey structure.3.2 For definitions of textile terms used in this specif
11、ication,refer to the individualASTM andAATCC methods, Dictionaryof Common Terms, and Terminology D 123.4. Significance and Use4.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet allof the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specificat
12、ion.4.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition
13、 approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originallyapproved in 1978. Last previous edition approved in 2002 as D 3655 02.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume informatio
14、n, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical standard is referencedon www.astm.org.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www
15、.aatcc.org.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1.
16、 Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the seller.4.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 3655except for the following characteristic(s).4.3 W
17、here no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case of contro-versy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be usedas a guide only. As noted in 4.2, ultimate consumer demandsdictate varying performance parameters for any particular styleof fabr
18、ic.4.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andtest methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.5. Specification Requirements5.1 The properties of fabrics for mens and womens sliverknitted overcoats and jackets shall conform to the specificationrequir
19、ements in Table 1.6. Sampling6.1 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirected in each of the applicable test methods.6.1.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the testmethod does not specify the number of specimens,
20、 use theprocedures in Practice D 2905 to determine the number ofspecimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below the lot average (that is, the average thatwould be obtained by applying this method to the ent
21、ire lot)when using a reliable estimate of variability of individualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles,
22、as directed in TestMethod D 3787, using an approved type of constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) machine equipped with a bursting attachment,or Test Method D 3786, using an approved type of diaphragmbursting tester, as agreed upon between the purchaser and theseller.NOTE 2There is no overall relation bet
23、ween the results obtained withthe CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and the diaphragmbursting tester. Consequently, these two bursting testers cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, Test Method D 3787 shall prevail.NOTE 3The precision of the ball bursting method using t
24、he CRTmachine equipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of thediaphragm bursting method are being established by SubcommitteeD13.59. The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptancetesting unless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratoryof the purchaser and th
25、e laboratory of the seller using randomizedreplicate specimens of the material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Method 135 or as agreed upon betweenthe purchaser and t
26、he seller (Note 3).7.2.1.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the seller.7.2.2 DrycleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings in accordance with 10.1.1through 10.1.4 of Test Methods D 2724 or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the selle
27、r.NOTE 4Launderable fabrics are expected to be drycleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vin
28、yl chloride) fiber. “Drycleanable” goods are to be drycleanedonly.7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one drycleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 5Washing conditions shall be the same as those
29、used in 7.2.1.1.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1The classes of colorfastness in the AATCC methods refer-enced in this table are based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or nocolor change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color change or colortransfer.Characteristic Requirements Se
30、ctionBursting strength (Ball Burst)A70 lbf (311 N) min 7.1Dimensional Change:After 5 launderings 3 % max, ineach direction7.1After 3 drycleanings 2 % max, ineach direction7.2Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes, 2 cycles: 7.3.1Shade change original fabric Class 4BminShade change after 1 launderingor 1 dryc
31、leaningClass 4Bmin 7.3.8Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4Bmin 7.3.9Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4BminLaundering: 7.3.2Shade change Class 4BminStaining Class 3CminDrycleaning: 7.3.3Shade change Class 4BminCrocking: 7.3.4Dry Class 4DminWet Class 3DminWater: 7.3.5Shade change Class 4BminStaining Class 4C
32、minPerspiration (acid phase) 7.3.6Shade change Class 4BminStaining Class 3CminLight (40 AATCC FU) (xenon arc)AStep 4Bmin 7.3.7Flammability pass 7.4AMore than one method can be used to measure these properties. Thesemethods cannot be used interchangeably since there can be no overall correlationbetwe
33、en them (see Note 2, Note 3, and Note 6).BAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.CAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.DAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.D 3655 02 (2008)2Drycleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in th
34、e applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller (Note 3).7.3.3 Colorfastness to DrycleaningDetermine the color-fastness to drycleaning as directed in AATCC Method 132(Note 3).7.3.4 Colorfastness to CrockingDetermine the colorfast-ness to dry and wet c
35、rocking as directed in AATCC Method 8for solid shades and AATCC Method 116 for prints or asagreed upon between the purchaser and the seller.7.3.5 Colorfastness to WaterDetermine the colorfastnessto water as directed in AATCC Method 107.7.3.6 Colorfastness to Perspiration Determine the color-fastness
36、 to perspiration as directed in AATCC Method 15.7.3.7 Colorfastness to LightDetermine the colorfastnessto light as directed in AATCC Method 16.NOTE 6There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed inAATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations betw
37、een them. Consequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the WaterCooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.3.8 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach De-termine the colorfastness to sodium hypochlorite bleach asdirect
38、ed in AATCC Method 188.7.3.9 Colorfastness to Perspiration Determine the color-fastness to non-chlorine bleach as directed in AATCCMethod 172.7.4 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, providedthey meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of t
39、he FlammableFabrics Act Regulations (see 2.3).8. Keywords8.1 jacket; overcoat; sliver knittedASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determinati
40、on of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdr
41、awn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your
42、comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D 3655 02 (2008)3
