1、Designation: D3655 131Standard Performance Specification forMens and Womens Sliver Knitted Overcoat and JacketFabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3655; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the ye
2、ar of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1NOTESection 3 was updated editorially in September 2013.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers mens and wom-ens
3、sliver knitted overcoat and jacket fabrics composed of anytextile fiber or mixture of textile fibers.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction
4、 is perti-nent.1.4 The following safety hazards caveat pertains only to thetest methods portion, Section 7, of this specification: Thisstandard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish ap
5、propriate safety and healthpractices and determine the applicability of regulatory limita-tions prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Sp
6、ecimens forTextiles (Withdrawn 2008)3D3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst TestD7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel32.2 AATCC Methods:48 Colorfas
7、tness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16.3 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated107 Colorfastness to Water116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Di
8、mensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Launder-ing172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach inHome Laundering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure
9、8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Trans-ference Scale2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product SafetyCommission, Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics ActRegulationsNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods
10、. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel see TerminologyD7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:fabric, sliver knitted.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 o
11、n Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved July 1, 2013. Published August 2013. Originallyapproved in 1978. Last previous edition approved in 2008 as D3655 02(2008).DOI: 10.1520/D3655-13E01.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM webs
12、ite, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.4Available from American Ass
13、ociation of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, P
14、A 19428-2959. United States13.2 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing,refer to specific AATCC methods. For definitions of all othertextile terms see Terminology D123.4. Significance and Use4.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, woven fabrics intended for thi
15、s end use should meet allof the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.4.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore
16、, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the seller.4.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: This fabric meets ASTM Specification D3655except for the following characteristic(s).4.3 Where no pre
17、purchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 4.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.4.4 The us
18、es and significance of particular properties andtest methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.5. Specification Requirements5.1 The properties of fabrics for mens and womens sliverknitted overcoats and jackets shall conform to the specificationrequirements in Tab
19、le 1.6. Sampling6.1 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirected in each of the applicable test methods.6.1.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the testmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theproce
20、dures in Practice D2905 to determine the number ofspecimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below the lot average (that is, the average thatwould be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)when u
21、sing a reliable estimate of variability of individualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in
22、 TestMethod D3787, using an approved type of constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) machine equipped with a bursting attachment,or Test Method D3786, using an approved type of diaphragmbursting tester, as agreed upon between the purchaser and theseller.NOTE 2There is no overall relation between the results
23、 obtained withthe CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and the diaphragmbursting tester. Consequently, these two bursting testers cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, Test Method D3787 shall prevail.NOTE 3The precision of the ball bursting method using the CRTmachine equ
24、ipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of thediaphragm bursting method are being established by SubcommitteeD13.59. The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptancetesting unless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratoryof the purchaser and the laboratory of t
25、he seller using randomizedreplicate specimens of the material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Method 135 or as agreed upon betweenthe purchaser and the seller (Note 3
26、).7.2.1.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the seller.7.2.2 DrycleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings in accordance with 10.1.1through 10.1.4 of Test Methods D2724 or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller.NOTE 4Launderabl
27、e fabrics are expected to be drycleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vinyl chloride) fiber
28、. “Drycleanable” goods are to be drycleanedonly.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1The classes of colorfastness in the AATCC methods refer-enced in this table are based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or nocolor change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color change or colortransfe
29、r.Characteristic Requirements SectionBursting strength (Ball Burst)A70 lbf (311 N) min 7.1Dimensional Change:After 5 launderings 3 % max, ineach direction7.1After 3 drycleanings 2 % max, ineach direction7.2Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes, 2 cycles: 7.3.1Shade change original fabric Class 4BminShade ch
30、ange after 1 launderingor 1 drycleaningClass 4Bmin 7.3.8Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4Bmin 7.3.9Powdered Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4BminLaundering: 7.3.2Shade change Class 4BminStaining Class 3CminDrycleaning: 7.3.3Shade change Class 4BminCrocking: 7.3.4Dry Class 4DminWet Class 3DminWater: 7.3.5
31、Shade change Class 4BminStaining Class 4CminPerspiration (acid phase) 7.3.6Shade change Class 4BminStaining Class 3CminLight (40 AATCC FU) (xenon arc)AStep 4Bmin 7.3.7Flammability pass 7.4AMore than one method can be used to measure these properties. Thesemethods cannot be used interchangeably since
32、 there can be no overall correlationbetween them (see Note 2, Note 3, and Note 6).BAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.CAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.DAATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.D3655 13127.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the origina
33、l fabric and after one launderingor one drycleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 5Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.1.1.Drycleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applica
34、ble procedure of AATCCMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller (Note 3).7.3.3 Colorfastness to DrycleaningDetermine the color-fastness to drycleaning as directed in AATCC Method 132(Note 3).7.3.4 Colorfastness to CrockingDetermine the colorfast-ness to dry and wet crocking a
35、s directed in AATCC Method 8for solid shades and AATCC Method 116 for prints or asagreed upon between the purchaser and the seller.7.3.5 Colorfastness to WaterDetermine the colorfastnessto water as directed in AATCC Method 107.7.3.6 Colorfastness to Perspiration Determine the color-fastness to persp
36、iration as directed in AATCC Method 15.7.3.7 Colorfastness to LightDetermine the colorfastnessto light as directed in AATCC Method 16.3.NOTE 6There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed inAATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between the
37、m. Consequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the WaterCooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option 3 shall prevail.7.3.8 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach De-termine the colorfastness to sodium hypochlorite bleach asdirected in A
38、ATCC Method 188.7.3.9 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine BleachDetermine the colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach as directedin AATCC Method 172.7.4 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, providedthey meet or exceed those of Part 16
39、10 of the FlammableFabrics Act Regulations (see 2.3).8. Keywords8.1 jackets; overcoats; sliver knittedASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that de
40、termination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved
41、or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel t
42、hat your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprint
43、s (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the ASTM website (www.astm.org/COPYRIGHT/).D3655 1313
