1、Designation: D3655 14Standard Performance Specification forMens and Womens Sliver Knitted Overcoat and JacketFabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3655; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the yea
2、r of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers mens and wom-ens sliver knitted overcoat and jacket fabrics composed of any
3、textile fiber or mixture of textile fibers.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.4 The following safety hazards caveat per
4、tains only to thetest methods portion, Section 7, of this specification:Thisstandard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish appropriate safety and healthpractices and determine the appl
5、icability of regulatory limita-tions prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens forTextiles (Withdrawn 2008)3D3786 Test Method for
6、Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst TestD7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel32.2 AATCC Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Per
7、spiration16.3 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated107 Colorfastness to Water116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Launder-ing172 Colo
8、rfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach inHome Laundering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Trans-ference Scale2.3 Federal Sta
9、ndard:516 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product SafetyCommission, Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics ActRegulationsNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prev
10、ail.3. Terminology3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel see TerminologyD7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:fabric, sliver knitted.3.2 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing,refer to specific AATCC methods. For definitions of all othertextile terms see
11、Terminology D123.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2014. Published March 2014. Originallyapproved in 1978. Last previous edition approved in 201
12、3 as D3655 131. DOI:10.1520/D3655-14.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved versi
13、on of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 2040
14、2.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States14. Significance and Use4.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet allof the requirements listed in Table 1 of th
15、is specification.4.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified b
16、y mutualagreement between the purchaser and the seller.4.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: This fabric meets ASTM Specification D3655except for the following characteristic(s).4.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the sel
17、ler, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 4.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.4.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andtest methods are dis
18、cussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.5. Specification Requirements5.1 The properties of fabrics for mens and womens sliverknitted overcoats and jackets shall conform to the specificationrequirements in Table 1.6. Sampling6.1 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified
19、in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirected in each of the applicable test methods.6.1.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the testmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theprocedures in Practice D2905 to determine the number ofspecimens, such th
20、at the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below the lot average (that is, the average thatwould be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)when using a reliable estimate of variability of individualobservations on
21、 similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in TestMethod D3787, using an approved type of constant-rate-of-traver
22、se (CRT) machine equipped with a bursting attachment,or Test Method D3786, using an approved type of diaphragmbursting tester, as agreed upon between the purchaser and theseller.NOTE 2There is no overall relation between the results obtained withthe CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment an
23、d the diaphragmbursting tester. Consequently, these two bursting testers cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, Test Method D3787 shall prevail.NOTE 3The precision of the ball bursting method using the CRTmachine equipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of thediaphragm b
24、ursting method are being established by SubcommitteeD13.59. The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptancetesting unless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratoryof the purchaser and the laboratory of the seller using randomizedreplicate specimens of the material to be
25、evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Method 135 or as agreed upon betweenthe purchaser and the seller (Note 3).7.2.1.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specif
26、ied by the seller.7.2.2 DrycleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings in accordance with 10.1.1through 10.1.4 of Test Methods D2724 or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller.NOTE 4Launderable fabrics are expected to be drycleanable exceptwhere all or part of
27、 the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. “Drycleanable” goods are to be drycleanedonly.TABLE 1 Specificatio
28、n RequirementsNOTE 1The classes of colorfastness in the AATCC methods refer-enced in this table are based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or nocolor change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color change or colortransfer.Characteristic Requirements SectionBursting strength (Ball Burst)A
29、70 lbf (311 N) min 7.1Dimensional Change:After 5 launderings 3 % max, ineach direction7.1After 3 drycleanings 2 % max, ineach direction7.2Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes, 2 cycles: 7.3.1Shade change original fabric Class 4BminShade change after 1 launderingor 1 drycleaningClass 4Bmin 7.3.8Sodium Hypoc
30、hlorite Bleach Class 4Bmin 7.3.9Powdered Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4BminLaundering:E7.3.2Shade change Class 4BminStaining Class 3CminDrycleaning: 7.3.3Shade change Class 4BminCrocking:E7.3.4Dry Class 4DminWet Class 3DminWater:E7.3.5Shade change Class 4BminStaining Class 4CminPerspiration (acid phase
31、)E7.3.6Shade change Class 4BminStaining Class 3CminLight (40 AATCC FU) (xenon arc)AStep 4Bmin 7.3.7Flammability pass 7.4AMore than one method can be used to measure these properties. Thesemethods cannot be used interchangeably since there can be no overall correlationbetween them (see Note 2, Note 3
32、, and Note 7).BAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.CAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.DAATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.EIt has been reported that the results for staining, obtained by standard AATCCTest Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades that contain a combination ofpolyester and spandex, o
33、r their blends, may not show the full staining propensityof such fabrics in consumer use. It is, therefore, recommended that the stainingresults obtained by these tests not be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.D3655 1427.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness tobu
34、rnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one drycleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 5Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.1.1.Drycleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-in
35、g as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller (Note 3).NOTE 6It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained bystandard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades thatcontain a combination of polyester and spa
36、ndex, or their blends, may notshow the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is,therefore, recommended that the staining results obtained by these testsnot be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics7.3.3 Colorfastness to DrycleaningDetermine the color-fastness to drycleani
37、ng as directed in AATCC Method 132(Note 3).7.3.4 Colorfastness to CrockingDetermine the colorfast-ness to dry and wet crocking as directed in AATCC Method 8for solid shades and AATCC Method 116 for prints or asagreed upon between the purchaser and the seller (see Note 6).7.3.5 Colorfastness to Water
38、Determine the colorfastnessto water as directed in AATCC Method 107 (see Note 6).7.3.6 Colorfastness to Perspiration Determine the color-fastness to perspiration as directed in AATCC Method 15 (seeNote 6).7.3.7 Colorfastness to LightDetermine the colorfastnessto light as directed in AATCC Method 16.
39、3.NOTE 7There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed inAATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the WaterCooled Xenon Arc
40、 machine listed in Option 3 shall prevail.7.3.8 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach De-termine the colorfastness to sodium hypochlorite bleach asdirected in AATCC Method 188.7.3.9 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine BleachDetermine the colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach as directedin AA
41、TCC Method 172.7.4 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, providedthey meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the FlammableFabrics Act Regulations (see 2.3).8. Keywords8.1 jackets; overcoats; sliver knittedASTM International takes no posi
42、tion respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibili
43、ty.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to AST
44、M International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address
45、shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the ASTM website (www.astm.org/COPYRIGHT/).D3655 143
