1、Designation: D 3780 02Standard Performance Specification forMens and Boys Woven Dress Suit Fabrics and WovenSportswear Jacket, Slack, and Trouser Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3780; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoptio
2、n or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers mens and boyswoven dress suit fabric
3、s and woven sportswear jacket, slack,and trouser fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture oftextile fibers.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable towoven fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabr
4、ic direction is perti-nent.1.4 The following safety hazards caveat pertains only to thetest method described in this specification. This standard doesnot purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any,associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of thisstandard to establish a
5、ppropriate safety and health practicesand determine the applicability of regulatory limitations priorto use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard SeamD 1424 Test Method f
6、or Tear Resistance of Woven Fabricsby Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf) ApparatusD 2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)D 2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip)
7、 Method (Constant Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine)D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor TextilesD 5034 Test Method for Breaking Force and Elongation ofTextile Fabrics (Grab Test)2.2 AATCC Test Methods:38 C
8、olorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial: Accelerated96 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven andKnitted Textiles Except Wool116 C
9、olorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod119 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): ScreenWire Method124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After RepeatedHome Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Durable Press Wove
10、n or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Clorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Stand
11、ards:-16 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing Tex-tiles416 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety Commis-sion, Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations42.4 Military Standard:MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by Attributes5NOTE 1Reference to test methods in th
12、is specification gives only the1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved Jan. 10, 2002. Published April 2002. Originallypublished as D 3780 79. Last previous edition D 378
13、0 95a.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Available from the American Association of Textile Che
14、mists and Colorists,P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.4Available from Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government PrintingOffice, Washington, DC 20402.5Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1C
15、opyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 DefinitionsFor definitions of textil
16、e terms used in thisspecification, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC testmethods and to Terminology D 123. Definitions found in adictionary of common terms are suitable for terms used in thisspecification.3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:3.2.1 pressing and finishingthis term t
17、akes into accountall of the industrial pressing and finishing treatments used ingarment production.NOTE 2No standard test method is available for reproducing on alaboratory level the results of industrial press or finish treatments, or both,used in the manufacture of woven outerwear garments.64. Spe
18、cification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics for mens and boys wovendress suits and woven sportswear jackets, slacks, and trousersshall conform to the specification requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, woven fabrics i
19、ntended for this end use should meetall of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Tab
20、le 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: This fabric meets Specification D 3780 except forthe following characteristic(s).5.3
21、 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fa
22、bric.5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and testmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6The development of a standard test method has been referred to SubcommitteeD13.59 on Fabric Test Methods, General.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE
23、1Class in a, b, c, and DP rating is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 for severecolor change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numerical rating in Table 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.CharacteristicRequirementsSectionSuit,
24、 Slack, Trouser JacketBreaking strength (load) (CRT): 7.1Worsted count yarns 178 N (40 lbf), min 133 N (30 lbf), minCotton count yarns 178 N (40 lbf), min 133 N (30 lbf), minWoolen run yarns 133 N (30 lbf), min 111 N (25 lbf), minYarn slippage 6.3-mm (14-in.) separation at111 N (25 lbf), min89 N (20
25、 lbf), min 7.2Tear strength 11 N (2.5 lbf), min 9 N (2 lbf) 7.3Dimensional Change:Pressing and finishing (in each direction) 2 % max 2 % max 7.4.1After five launderings (in each direction) 3 % max 3 % max 7.4.2After three dry cleanings (in each direction) 2 % max 2 % max 7.4.3Colorfastness:Burnt gas
26、 fumes2 cycles:Shade change, original fabric Class 4Amin Class 4Amin 7.5.1Shade change after one laundering or one dry cleaning Class 4Amin Class 4AminChlorine Bleach Class 4Amin Class 4Amin 7.5.8Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4Amin Class 4Amin 7.5.9Laundering:Shade change Class 4Amin Class 4Amin 7.5.2St
27、aining Class 3Bmin Class 3BminDry cleaning:Shade change Class 4Amin Class 4Amin 7.5.3Crocking:Dry Class 4Cmin Class 4Cmin 7.5.4Wet Class 3Cmin Class 3CminPerspiration:Shade change Class 4Amin Class 4Amin 7.5.5Staining Class 3Bmin Class 3BminLight (40 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4Amin Step 4Amin 7.5.6
28、Frosting Class 4Amin Class 4Amin 7.5.7Fabric appearance (See 7.6.1.1) DP 3.5Dmin DP 3.5Dmin 7.6Flammability Class 1 or Class 2 Class 1 or Class 2 7.6AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.DFor durable-press fabrics only.D37800226. Sampli
29、ng6.1 Acceptance Testing LotUnless there is prior agree-ment, consider as a lot for acceptance testing all material of asingle item received as a single shipment.6.2 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other
30、 agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.3 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.6.4 Test SpecimensTake the number of specime
31、ns di-rected in each of the applicable test methods. Perform the testson the fabric as it will reach the customer. Any “partiallyfinished” or “post-finished” fabrics should be processed inaccordance with the fabric manufacturers instructions.6.5 If the applicable test method does not specify thenumb
32、er of specimens, use the procedures in Practice D 2905 todetermine the number of specimens per laboratory samplingunit. Use (1) a reliable estimate of the variability of individualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory, (2)a95 % probability level, and ( 3) an allowable difference
33、of 5 %of the average between the test results on laboratory samplingunits and the average for the laboratory sampling unit. Theaverage for a laboratory sampling unit is the average thatwould be obtained by applying the test method to all of thepotential specimens from that laboratory sampling unit.7
34、. Test Method (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking ForceDetermine the dry breaking force, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in TestMethod D 5034, using a constant rate of traverse (CRT) tensiletesting machine with the speed of the pulling clamp at 300 610 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 3If
35、 preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)tensile testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be asagreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier. There may be nooverall correlation between the results obtained with the CRT machine andwith the CRE machine. Consequentl
36、y, these two breaking load testerscannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT methodshall prevail.7.2 Resistance to Yarn SlippageDetermine the resistanceto yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D 434.NOTE 4The precision of Test Method D 434 has not been established,and it may
37、not be suitable for fabrics with low yarn counts.7.3 Tear StrengthDetermine the tongue tear strength asdirected in Test Method D 1424.NOTE 5If preferred, use of Test Methods D 2261 or D 2262 ispermitted with existing requirements as given in this specification. Theremay be no overall correlation bet
38、ween the results obtained with the tonguetear machine and with the Elmendorf machine. Consequently, these twotongue tear testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy,Test Method D 1424 shall prevail.7.4 Dimensional Change:7.4.1 Pressing and Finishing During ManufacturingMarkspecime
39、n(s) as directed in Section 4 of AATCC TestMethod 135. Press and finish specimen(s) as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier with respect to timecycles, temperature, steam, vacuum, and mechanical pressureof the press head. Measure the specimen(s) and calculate thedimensional change as di
40、rected in Section 5 of AATCC TestMethod 135 (see Note 2).7.4.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser and the supplier, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press as follows:(1) Five seconds steam with head up.(2) Five seconds dry hot press with head down 293 to303F (145 to 15
41、1C) at the press.(3) Five seconds vacuum, steam off, head down.(4) Five seconds vacuum, steam off, head up.7.4.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Test Method 135 (Note 6).7.4.2.1 The wash conditions and drying pr
42、ocedure shall beas specified by the supplier.7.4.3 Dry CleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three dry cleanings as directed in Test MethodsD 2724.NOTE 6Specimens prepared for 7.4.1 may be used for 7.4.2 and 7.4.3as desired. When this is done, subtract the pressing and finishingdimen
43、sional change from the total dimensional change to obtain thatportion due to laundering or dry cleaning. The dimensional change topressing and finishing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user.7.5 Colorfastness:7.5.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the o
44、riginal fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 23.NOTE 7Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.4.2.1.Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.4.3.7.5.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed i
45、n the applicable procedure of AATCC TestMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller.7.5.3 Dry CleaningDetermine colorfastness to dry clean-ing as directed in AATCC Test Method 132.7.5.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Test Method 8 fo
46、r solid shadesand AATCC Test Method 116 for prints or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier.7.5.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Test Method 15.7.5.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Test Method 16.NOTE 8There are disti
47、nct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Test Method 16, with nooverall correlations between them. Consequently, these machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with thewater-cooled xenon-arc machine listed i
48、n Option E shall prevail.7.5.7 Flat Abrasion (Frosting)Determine the colorchange due to flat abrasion (frosting) as directed in AATCCTest Method 119.7.5.8 Colorfastness to Chlorine BleachDetermine color-fastness to chlorine bleach as directed in AATCC TestMethod 188.D37800237.5.9 Colorfastness to No
49、n-Chlorine BleachDeterminecolorfastness to non-chlorine bleach as directed in AATCC TestMethod 172.7.6 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Test Method 124 after laundering usingthe wash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller as specified in 7.4.2.1 forwashable fabrics or after dry cleaning as specified in 7.4.3 fordry-cleanable fabrics.7.6.1 For fabrics not intended for use in “durable-press”garments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified
