1、Designation: D3780 14Standard Performance Specification forMens and Boys Woven Dress Suit Fabrics and WovenSportswear Jacket, Slack, and Trouser Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3780; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption
2、or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers mens and boyswoven dress suit fabrics a
3、nd woven sportswear jacket, slack,and trouser fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture oftextile fibers.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable towoven fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric
4、direction is perti-nent.1.4 The following safety hazards caveat pertains only to thetest method described in this specification. This standard doesnot purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any,associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of thisstandard to establish appr
5、opriate safety and health practicesand determine the applicability of regulatory limitations priorto use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn2003)3D1424 Te
6、st Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) ApparatusD2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by theTongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)D2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Singl
7、e Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine) (Withdrawn 1995)3D2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens forTextiles (Withdrawn 2008)3D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation ofTextile Fabr
8、ics (Grab Test)D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel2.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16.3 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated96 Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laun
9、dering ofWoven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod119 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): ScreenWire Method124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics After RepeatedHome Laundering132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes of
10、 Fabrics After Home Launder-ing172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach inHome Laundering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 8 AATCC 9Step Chroma
11、tic Transfer-ence ScaleA Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology2.3 Federal Standards:16 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing Tex-tiles51This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onAppare
12、l.Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2014. Published March 2014. Originallyapproved in 1979. Last previous edition approved in 2008 as D3780 02(2008).DOI: 10.1520/D3780-14.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annu
13、al Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.4Available from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists,P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangl
14、e Park, NC 27709; www.aatcc.org.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government PrintingOffice, Washington, DC 20402.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States116 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product SafetyCommission, Sub
15、chapter DFlammable Fabrics ActRegulations52.4 Military Standard:MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by Attributes6NOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification gives only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions o
16、f each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel, see TerminologyD7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:pressing and finishing.3.2 For definitions of all other textile terms, see Terminol-ogy D123.3.3 For terms relating to chemica
17、l or colorfastness testing,refer to specific AATCC test methods or the glossary ofAATCC Standard Terminology, or both.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics for mens and boys wovendress suits and woven sportswear jackets, slacks, and trousersshall conform to the specification req
18、uirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meetall of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate
19、consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references
20、to the specification shallspecify that: This fabric meets Specification D3780 except forthe following characteristic(s).6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Grade in
21、a, b, c, and SA rating is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 for severecolor change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numerical rating in Table 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.CharacteristicRequirementsSectionSuit, Slack, Tr
22、ouser JacketBreaking strength (load) (CRT): 7.1Worsted count yarns 178 N (40 lbf), min 133 N (30 lbf), minCotton count yarns 178 N (40 lbf), min 133 N (30 lbf), minWoolen run yarns 133 N (30 lbf), min 111 N (25 lbf), minYarn slippage 6.3-mm (14-in.) separation at111 N (25 lbf), min89 N (20 lbf), min
23、 7.2Tear strength 11 N (2.5 lbf), min 9 N (2 lbf) 7.3Dimensional Change:Pressing and finishing (in each direction) 2 % max 2 % max 7.4.1After five launderings (in each direction) 3 % max 3 % max 7.4.2After three dry cleanings (in each direction) 2 % max 2 % max 7.4.3Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes2 cy
24、cles:Shade change, original fabric Grade 4Amin Grade 4Amin 7.5.1Shade change after one laundering or one dry cleaning Grade 4Amin Grade 4AminSodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4Amin Grade 4Amin 7.5.8Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4Amin Grade 4Amin 7.5.9Laundering:EShade change Grade 4Amin Grade 4A
25、min 7.5.2Staining Grade 3Bmin Grade 3BminDry cleaning:Shade change Grade 4Amin Grade 4Amin 7.5.3Crocking:EDry Grade 4Cmin Grade 4Cmin 7.5.4Wet Grade 3Cmin Grade 3CminPerspiration:EShade change Grade 4Amin Grade 4Amin 7.5.5Staining Grade 3Bmin Grade 3BminLight (40 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Grade 4Amin Gr
26、ade 4Amin 7.5.6Frosting Grade 4Amin Grade 4Amin 7.5.7Fabric smoothness appearance (See 7.6.1)S.5Dmin SA 3.5Dmin 7.6Flammability Class 1 or Class 2 Class 1 or Class 2 7.6AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.DFor easy-care fabrics
27、 only.ESee Note 8.D3780 1425.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters
28、 for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and testmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Acceptance Testing LotUnless there is prioragreement, consider as a lot for acceptance testing all materialof
29、 a single item received as a single shipment.6.2 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing, takeat random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.3 Laboratory SampleFrom
30、each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.6.4 Test SpecimensTake the number of specimens directedin each of the applicable test methods. Perform the tests on thefabric as it will reach the customer. Any
31、“partially finished” or“post-finished” fabrics should be processed in accordance withthe fabric manufacturers instructions.6.5 If the applicable test method does not specify thenumber of specimens, use the procedures in Practice D2905 todetermine the number of specimens per laboratory samplingunit.
32、Use (1) a reliable estimate of the variability of individualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory, (2)a95 % probability level, and (3) an allowable difference of 5 %of the average between the test results on laboratory samplingunits and the average for the laboratory sampling uni
33、t. Theaverage for a laboratory sampling unit is the average thatwould be obtained by applying the test method to all of thepotential specimens from that laboratory sampling unit.7. Test Method (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking ForceDetermine the dry breaking force, inthe standard atmosphere for testing texti
34、les, as directed in TestMethod D5034, using a constant rate of traverse (CRT) tensiletesting machine with the speed of the pulling clamp at 300 610 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 2If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)tensile testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should
35、be asagreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier. There may be nooverall correlation between the results obtained with the CRT machine andwith the CRE machine. Consequently, these two breaking load testerscannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT methodshall prevail.7.2
36、Resistance to Yarn SlippageDetermine the resistanceto yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D434.NOTE 3The precision of Test Method D434 has not been established,and it may not be suitable for fabrics with low yarn counts.7.3 Tear StrengthDetermine the tear strength as directedin Test Method D142
37、4.NOTE 4If preferred, use of Test Methods D2261 or D2262 ispermitted with existing requirements as given in this specification. Theremay be no overall correlation between the results obtained with the tonguetear machine and with the Elmendorf machine. Consequently, these twotongue tear testers canno
38、t be used interchangeably. In case of controversy,Test Method D1424 shall prevail.7.4 Dimensional Change:7.4.1 Pressing and Finishing During ManufacturingMarkspecimen(s) as directed in Section 4 of AATCC TestMethod 135. Press and finish specimen(s) as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplie
39、r with respect to timecycles, temperature, steam, vacuum, and mechanical pressureof the press head. Measure the specimen(s) and calculate thedimensional change as directed in Section 5 of AATCC TestMethod 135 (see Note 5).NOTE 5No standard test method is available for reproducing on alaboratory leve
40、l the results of industrial press or finish treatments, or both,used in the manufacture of woven outerwear garments.77.4.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser and the supplier, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press as follows:(1) Five seconds steam with head up.(2) Fiv
41、e seconds dry hot press with head down 293 to303F (145 to 151C) at the press.(3) Five seconds vacuum, steam off, head down.(4) Five seconds vacuum, steam off, head up.7.4.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Test M
42、ethod 135 (Note 6).7.4.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the supplier.7.4.3 Dry CleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three dry cleanings as directed in Test MethodsD2724.NOTE 6Specimens prepared for 7.4.1 may be used for 7.4.2 and 7.4.3as desired.
43、When this is done, subtract the pressing and finishingdimensional change from the total dimensional change to obtain thatportion due to laundering or dry cleaning. The dimensional change topressing and finishing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user.7.5 Colorfastness:7.5.1 Burnt Gas
44、FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 23.NOTE 7Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.4.2.1.Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.4.3.7.5.2 Launder
45、ingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC TestMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller.NOTE 8It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained bystandard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades thatco
46、ntain a combination of polyester and spandex, or their blends, may notshow the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is,therefore, recommended that the staining results obtained by these testsnot be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.7The development of a standard tes
47、t method has been referred to SubcommitteeD13.59 on Fabric Test Methods, General.D3780 1437.5.3 Dry CleaningDetermine colorfastness to dry clean-ing as directed in AATCC Test Method 132.7.5.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shadesan
48、d AATCC Test Method 116 for prints or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier (see Note 8).7.5.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Test Method 15 (see Note 8).7.5.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Test Method 16.3.NOTE 9The
49、re are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Test Method 16.3, with nooverall correlations between them. Consequently, these machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with thewater-cooled xenon-arc machine listed in Option 3 shall prevail.7.5.7 Flat Abrasion (Frosting)Determine the color changedue to flat abrasion (frosting) as directed in AATCC TestMethod 119.7.5.8 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite BleachDetermine colorfastness to chlor
