1、Designation: D 3782 02Standard Performance Specification forMens and Boys Knitted Dress Suit Fabrics and KnittedSportswear Jacket, Slack, and Trouser Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3782; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal ado
2、ption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers mens and boysknitted dress suit
3、and knitted sportswear jacket, slack, andtrouser fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture oftextile fibers.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fa
4、bric direction is perti-nent.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 231 Method of Testing and Tolerances for Knit Goods3D 2594 Test Methods for Stretch Properties of KnittedFabrics Having Low PowerD 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel
5、 FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor Textiles2.2 AATCC Methods:48-1974 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC CrockmeterMethod15-1976 Colorfastness to Perspiration16-1974 Colorfastness to Light23-1975 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61-1975 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, a
6、nd Launder-ing, Commercial: Accelerated96-1975 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven andKnitted Textiles Except Wool116-1974 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crock-meter Method124-1975 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After Re-peated Home Launderings132-1976 Colorfastness to Drycle
7、aning135-1973 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laun-derings of Durable Press Woven of Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2
8、 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic TransferenceScaleNOTE 1Reference to test methods used in this specification gives onlythe permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology
9、3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 dimensional change, nin pressing and finishing oftextiles, the change in dimensions of a fabric caused bypressing and finishing during garment manufacture.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisspecification, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC testmethods an
10、d to Terminology D 123.3.3 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:3.3.1 pressing and finishingThis term takes into accountall of the industrial pressing and finishing treatments used ingarment production.NOTE 2No standard method is available for reproducing on a labo-ratory level the results
11、 of industrial press or finish treatments, or both, usedin the manufacture of woven outerwear garments.54. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics for mens and boys knitteddress suits and sportswear jackets, slacks, and trousers shallconform to the specification requirements in Table
12、 1.1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.56 on PerformanceStandards for Textile Fabrics.Current edition May 10, 2002. Published June 2002. Originally published asD 3782 79. Last previous edition D 3782 95.2
13、For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3DiscontinuedSee 1979 Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Part 32.4
14、Available from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists,P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.5The development of a standard method has been referred to SubcommitteeD13.59 on Fabric Test Methods, General.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700,
15、West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.5. Significance and Use5.1 Knitted fabrics should meet all of the requirements inTable 1 to be suitable for use in the manufacture of dress suitsand sportswear jackets, slacks, and trousers for men and boys.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fas
16、hion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable some fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. For example, the fabric could be dyedin shades that do not meet the requirement in Table 1 forcolorfastness to light, yet be acceptabl
17、e to the ultimate con-sumer because the shade is fashionable. In such cases, one ormore of the requirements may be modified by mutual agree-ment between the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 If any of the requirements in Table 1 are modified bymutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller, anyr
18、eference to the specification shall specify that “this fabricmeets ASTM Specification D 3782 except for the followingcharacteristic(s).”5.3 The uses and significance of particular properties arediscussed in the appropriate sections of the specific methods.6. Sampling6.1 Tests shall be performed on t
19、he fabric as it will reach theconsumer. Any “partially finished” or “post-finished” fabricsshould first be processed in accordance with the fabric manu-facturers instructions.6.2 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirec
20、ted in each of the applicable test methods.6.2.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the testmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theprocedures in Practice D 2905 to determine the number ofspecimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test resu
21、lt is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below the lot average (that is, the average thatwould be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)when using a reliable estimate of variability of individualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-ope
22、rator precision.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed inMethod D 231 using an approved type of constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) machine equipped with a bursting attachmentor an approved type of dia
23、phragm bursting tester as agreedupon between the purchaser and the seller.NOTE 3There is no overall correlation between the results obtainedwith the CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and thediaphragm bursting tester. Consequently, these two bursting testers cannotbe used interchangeabl
24、y. In case of controversy, the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment method shall prevail.NOTE 4The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.
25、59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the seller using randomized replicatespecimens of the material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Pressing and Finis
26、hing During ManufacturingMarkspecimen(s) as directed in 4.3.1 of AATCC Method 135. Pressand finish specimen(s) as agreed upon between the purchaserand the seller with respect to time cycles, temperature, steam,vacuum, and mechanical pressure of the press head. Measurethe specimen(s) and calculate th
27、e dimensional change asdirected in Sections 6 and 7 of AATCC Method 135 (see Note2).7.2.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser and the seller, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press according to the cycle in 10.1.3.1 through 10.1.3.5of Test Methods D 2724.7.2.2 Launderin
28、gDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Method 135 (Notes 5 and 6).7.2.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the seller.7.2.3 Dry CleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three dry cle
29、anings in accordance with 10.1.1through 10.1.4 of Test Methods D 2724 (Notes 5 and 6).7.2.4 GrowthDetermine the growth of the fabric as di-rected in Test Methods D 2594.NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not dry-cleanable and is so lab
30、eled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class in a, b, c, and DP is based on a numerical scale of 5 fornegligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 for verysevere color change, color transfer, or
31、wrinkle. The numerical rating inTable 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.Characteristic Requirements SectionBursting strength (load) (ball burst) 50 lbf (222 N) 7.1Dimensional change:Pressing and finishing 2 % max 7.2.2After five launderings 3 % max 7.2.1After three dry cleanings 2 % max 7
32、.2.3Growth 3 % max 7.2.4Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes2 cycles: 7.3.1Shade change, original fabric Class 4AminShade change after one launderingor one dry cleaningClass 4AminSodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4Amin 7.3.7Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4Amin 7.3.8Laundering: 7.3.2Shade change Class 4AminStaini
33、ng Class 3BminDry cleaning: 7.3.3Shade change Class 4AminCrocking: 7.3.4Wet Class 4CminDry Class 3CminPerspiration (acid phase): 7.3.5Shade change Class 4AminStaining Class 3BminLight (40 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4Amin 7.3.6Fabric appearance (see 7.4.1.1) DP 3.5Dmin 7.4Flammability pass 7.5AAATCC
34、Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.DFor durable-press fabrics only.D3782022or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. “Dry-cleanable” goods are to be dry-cleaned only.NOTE 6Specime
35、ns prepared for 7.2.1 may be used for 7.2.2 and 7.2.3as desired. When this is done, subtract the pressing and finishingdimensional change from the total dimensional change to obtain thatportion due to laundering or dry cleaning. The dimensional change topressing and finishing is determined on the fa
36、bric as it will reach the user.It is not additive to the dimensional change to laundering or dry cleaningof the fabric as it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dr
37、y cleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 7Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.1.Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.1.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61 (Note 5)
38、.7.3.3 Dry CleaningDetermine colorfastness to dryclean-ing as directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 5).7.3.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller.7.3.5 P
39、erspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Method 15.7.3.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.NOTE 8There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Method 16, with no overallcorr
40、elations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the water-cooled xenon-arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.3.7 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite BleachDetermine colorfastness to sodium hypochlorite bleach
41、asdirected in AATCC Method 188.7.3.8 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine BleachDeterminecolorfastness to non-chlorine bleach as directed in AATCCMethod 172.7.4 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Method 124 after laundering using thewash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle
42、as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller, as specified in 7.2.2.1 forwashable fabrics or as specified in 7.2.3 for dry-cleanablefabrics (see Note 5).7.4.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable-pressgarments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in 5.12 of AATCC
43、Method 96.7.4.1.1 The fabric smoothness durable-press (DP) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the DP rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 DP rating from that of thefabric before it is laundered or dry-cleaned.7.5 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon b
44、etween the purchaser and the seller, exceptwhen regulated by applicable Government mandatory stan-dards.8. Keywords8.1 pants; suitingASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standar
45、d are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif
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47、h you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D3782023
