1、Designation: D 3785 02Standard Performance Specification forWoven Necktie and Scarf Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3785; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A nu
2、mber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven necktieand scarf fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture oftextile fibers.1.2 This
3、performance specification is not applicable towoven fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.4 The following precautionary caveat pertains only to thetest methods portion, Section 7, of th
4、is specification. Thisstandard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish appropriate safety and healthpractices and determine the applicability of regulatory limita-tions prior to use.2. R
5、eferenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard SeamD 1336 Test Method for Distortion of Yarn in WovenFabricsD 1424 Test Method for Tear Resistance of Woven Fabricsby Falling-Pendulum
6、(Elmendorf) ApparatusD 1682 Test Methods for Breaking Load and Elongation ofTextile FabricsD 2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine)D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD
7、 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor Textiles2.2 AATCC Methods:38-1974 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC CrockmeterMethod15-1976 Colorfastness to Perspiration16-1974 Colorfastness to Light23-1975 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61-1975 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Launde
8、r-ing, Commercial: Accelerated96-1975 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven andKnitted Textiles Except Wool116-1974 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crock-meter Method124-1975 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After Re-peated Home Launderings132-1976 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135-
9、1973 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laun-dering of Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scal
10、e for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic TransferenceScaleNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:
11、3.1.1 scarfin apparel, an oblong or square piece of clothworn for warmth or as a decorative item.3.2 For definitions of textile terms used in this specification,refer to Terminology D 123 and the Technical Manual of theAmerican Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists.34. Specification Requirem
12、ents4.1 The properties of fabrics for woven neckties and scarfsshall conform to the specification requirements in Table 1.1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved May 10,
13、 2002. Published June 2002. Originallypublished as D 3785 79. Last previous edition D 3785 95.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document
14、 Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Available from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.5. Significance and Use5.1
15、Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet allof the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfi
16、nd acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: This fabric
17、meets ASTM Specification D 3785except for the following characteristic(s).5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case of contro-versy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be usedas a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consume
18、r demandsdictate varying performance parameters for any particular styleof fabric.5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and testmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Tests shall be performed on the fabric as it will reach thecon
19、sumer.6.2 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirected in each of the applicable test methods.6.2.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the testmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theprocedure in Pr
20、actice D 2905 to determine the number ofspecimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below the lot average (that is, the average thatwould be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)when using a rel
21、iable estimate of variability of individualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking Strength (Load)Determine the dry breakingstrength, in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles, asdirected in
22、 the grab test procedure of Test Methods D 1682,using a constant-rate-of traverse (CRT) tensile testing machinewith the speed of the pulling jaw at 12 6 0.5 in. (305 6 13mm)/min.NOTE 2If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)tensile testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed
23、 should be asagreed upon between the purchaser and the seller. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained with the CRT machine. Conse-quently these two breaking load testers cannot be used interchangeably. Incase of controversy, the CRT method shall prevail.7.2 Resistance to Yar
24、n SlippageDetermine the resistanceto yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D 434.NOTE 3The precision of Test Method D 434 is being established andit may not be suitable for fabrics with low yarn counts (see 5.2) in termsof ends and picks per inch.7.3 Tongue Tear StrengthDetermine the tongue tears
25、trength as directed in Test Method D 2262.NOTE 4If preferred, use of Test Method D 1424 is permitted withexisting requirements as given in this specification. There may be nooverall correlation between the results obtained with the tongue tearmachine and with the Elmendorf machine. Consequently, the
26、se two teartesters cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, TestMethod D 2262 shall prevail.7.4 Yarn Distortion Determine the yarn distortion asdirected in Test Method D 1336.7.5 Dimensional Change:7.5.1 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as direc
27、ted in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Method 135 (Note 5).7.5.1.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the seller.7.5.2 Dry Cleaning Determine the maximum dimensionalchange after three dry cleanings as directed in 10.1.1 through10.1.4 of Test Methods D 2724.NOTE 5Launde
28、rable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable unlessspecifically labeled “Do Not Dry Clean.” “Dry-cleanable” goods are to bedry-cleaned only.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class in colorfastness and DP requirements is based on anumerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color
29、transfer, orfabric wrinkle to 1 for severe color change, color transfer, or fabricwrinkle.Characteristic Requirements SectionBreaking strength (load) (CRT) 20 lbf (89 N), min 7.1Yarn slippage14-in. (6.3-mm) separationat 15 lbf(67 N), min7.2Tongue tear strength 1.5 lbf (6.7 N), min 7.3Yarn distortion
30、: 7.4Satins 0.10 in. (2.5 mm), minAll other 0.05 in. (1 mm), minDimensional change:After five launderings 3 % max 7.5.1After three dry cleanings 2 % max 7.5.2Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes2 cycles: 7.6.1Shade change, original fabric Class 4AminShade change after one launderingor one dry cleaningClass
31、 4AminSodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4Amin 7.6.7Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4Amin 7.6.8Laundering: 7.6.2Shade change Class 4AminStaining Class 3BminDry cleaning: 7.6.3Shade change Class 4AminCrocking: 7.6.4Dry Class 4CminWet Class 3CminPerspiration: 7.6.5Shade change Class 4AminStaining Class 3BminL
32、ight (20 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4Amin 7.6.6Fabric appearance (see 7.7.1.1) DP 3.5Dmin 7.7Flammability pass 7.8AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC Chromatic Transference ScaleDFor durable-press fabrics only.D37850227.6 Colorfastness:7.6.1 Burnt Gas Fumes Deter
33、mine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.1.1.Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.2.7.6.2 LaunderingDetermine th
34、e colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller (Note 5).7.6.3 Dry Cleaning Determine colorfastness to dry clean-ing as directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 5).7.6.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry
35、and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller.7.6.5 Perspiration Determine colorfastness to perspira-tion as directed in AATCC Method 15.7.6.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAAT
36、CC Method 16.NOTE 7There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the water-coo
37、led xenon-arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.6.7 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach inHome Laundering Determine colorfastness to sodium hy-pochlorite bleach as directed in AATCC Method 188.7.6.8 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in HomeLaundering Determine colorfastness to no
38、n-chlorine bleachas directed in AATCC Method 188.7.7 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Method 124 after laundering using thewash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller as specified in 7.5.1.1 forwashable fabrics or aft
39、er dry cleaning as specified in 7.5.2 fordry-cleanable fabrics (see Note 5).7.7.1 For fabrics not intended for use in “durable-press”garments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in 5.12 of AATCC Method 96.7.7.1.1 The fabric smoothness durable-press (DP) rating ofsuch fabrics,
40、 and the DP rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 DP rating from that of thefabric before it is laundered or dry-cleaned.7.8 Flammability The flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, exceptwhen regulated by applicable Governme
41、nt mandatory stan-dards.8. Keywords8.1 necktieASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, a
42、nd the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revis
43、ion of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you s
44、houldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D3785023
