1、Designation: D3785 131Standard Performance Specification forWoven Necktie and Scarf Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3785; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A num
2、ber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1NOTESection 3 was updated editorially in September 2013.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven necktieand scarf fabrics composed of
3、any textile fiber or mixture oftextile fibers.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable towoven fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.3.1 The values stated in inch-pound unit
4、s are to beregarded as standard. The values given in parentheses aremathematical conversions to SI units that are provided forinformation only and are not considered standard.1.4 The following precautionary caveat pertains only to thetest methods portion, Section 7, of this specification. Thisstanda
5、rd does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish appropriate safety and healthpractices and determine the applicability of regulatory limita-tions prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM
6、Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn2003)3D1336 Test Method for Distortion of Yarn in Woven FabricsD1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Ap
7、paratusD1682 Test Method for Breaking Load and Elongation ofTextile Fabric (Withdrawn 1992)3D2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine) (Withdrawn 1995)3D2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminate
8、dApparel FabricsD2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens forTextiles (Withdrawn 2008)3D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel32.2 AATCC Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16.3 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Co
9、lorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated96 Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering ofWoven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics After RepeatedHome Laundering132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensiona
10、l Changes of Fabrics After Home Launder-ing172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach inHome Laundering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 8 AATCC
11、9-Step Chromatic Transfer-ence ScaleNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of AST
12、M CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved July 1, 2013. Published August 2013. Originallyapproved in 1979. Last previous edition approved in 2008 as D3785 02(2008).DOI: 10.1520/D3785-13E01.2For referenced ASTM standards, vis
13、it the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.4Available f
14、rom American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States13. Terminology3.1 For all terminology related to
15、Apparel see TerminologyD7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:scarf.3.2 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing,refer to specific AATCC methods. For definitions of all othertextile terms see Terminology D123.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fa
16、brics for woven neckties and scarfsshall conform to the specification requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet allof the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 I
17、t is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement betw
18、een the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: This fabric meets ASTM Specification D3785except for the following characteristic(s).5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case ofcon
19、troversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and testmethods are discussed in the appropria
20、te sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Tests shall be performed on the fabric as it will reach theconsumer.6.2 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirected in each of the applicable test methods.6.2.1 If
21、 there has been no prior agreement and the testmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theprocedure in Practice D2905 to determine the number ofspecimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below t
22、he lot average (that is, the average thatwould be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)when using a reliable estimate of variability of individualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Break
23、ing Strength (Load)Determine the dry breakingstrength, in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles, asdirected in the grab test procedure of Test Methods D1682,using a constant-rate-of traverse (CRT) tensile testing machinewith the speed of the pulling jaw at 12 6 0.5 in. (305 6 13mm)/min.NOTE 2
24、If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)tensile testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be asagreed upon between the purchaser and the seller. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained with the CRT machine. Conse-quently these two breaking lo
25、ad testers cannot be used interchangeably. Incase of controversy, the CRT method shall prevail.7.2 Resistance to Yarn SlippageDetermine the resistanceto yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D434.NOTE 3The precision of Test Method D434 is being established andit may not be suitable for fabrics wi
26、th low yarn counts (see 5.2) in termsof ends and picks per inch.7.3 Tongue Tear StrengthDetermine the tongue tearstrength as directed in Test Method D2262.NOTE 4If preferred, use of Test Method D1424 is permitted withexisting requirements as given in this specification. There may be nooverall correl
27、ation between the results obtained with the tongue tearmachine and with the Elmendorf machine. Consequently, these two teartesters cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, TestMethod D2262 shall prevail.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class in colorfastness and DP requirements
28、 is based on anumerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, orfabric wrinkle to 1 for severe color change, color transfer, or fabricwrinkle.Characteristic Requirements SectionBreaking strength (load) (CRT) 20 lbf (89 N), min 7.1Yarn slippage14-in. (6.3-mm) separationat 15 l
29、bf(67 N), min7.2Tongue tear strength 1.5 lbf (6.7 N), min 7.3Yarn distortion: 7.4Satins 0.10 in. (2.5 mm), minAll other 0.05 in. (1 mm), minDimensional change:After five launderings 3 % max 7.5.1After three dry cleanings 2 % max 7.5.2Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes2 cycles: 7.6.1Shade change, original
30、 fabric Class 4AminShade change after one launderingor one dry cleaningClass 4AminSodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4Amin 7.6.7Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4Amin 7.6.8Laundering: 7.6.2Shade change Class 4AminStaining Class 3BminDry cleaning: 7.6.3Shade change Class 4AminCrocking: 7.6.4Dry Class
31、 4CminWet Class 3CminPerspiration: 7.6.5Shade change Class 4AminStaining Class 3BminLight (20 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4Amin 7.6.6Fabric appearance (see 7.7.1.1)DP3.5Dmin 7.7Flammability pass 7.8AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference
32、ScaleDFor durable-press fabrics only.D3785 13127.4 Yarn Distortion Determine the yarn distortion asdirected in Test Method D1336.7.5 Dimensional Change:7.5.1 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Method 135 (Note 5).7
33、.5.1.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the seller.7.5.2 Dry Cleaning Determine the maximum dimensionalchange after three dry cleanings as directed in 10.1.1 through10.1.4 of Test Methods D2724.NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable unlessspecifica
34、lly labeled “Do Not Dry Clean.” “Dry-cleanable” goods are to bedry-cleaned only.7.6 Colorfastness:7.6.1 Burnt Gas Fumes Determine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be th
35、e same as those used in 7.5.1.1.Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.2.7.6.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller (Note 5).7.6.3 Dry Cleaning De
36、termine colorfastness to dry clean-ing as directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 5).7.6.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller.7.6.5 Perspiration Determin
37、e colorfastness to perspira-tion as directed in AATCC Method 15.7.6.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.3.NOTE 7There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Method 16.3, with nooverall correlations betw
38、een them. Consequently, these machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with thewater-cooled xenon-arc machine listed in Option 3 shall prevail.7.6.7 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach inHome LaunderingDetermine colorfastness to sodium hy-pochlorite bl
39、each as directed in AATCC Method 188.7.6.8 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach inHome LaunderingDetermine colorfastness to non-chlorinebleach as directed in AATCC Method 188.7.7 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Method 124 after laundering using thewash-a
40、nd-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller as specified in 7.5.1.1 forwashable fabrics or after dry cleaning as specified in 7.5.2 fordry-cleanable fabrics (see Note 5).7.7.1 For fabrics not intended for use in “durable-press”garments, determine the fabric s
41、moothness after pressing asspecified in 5.12 of AATCC Method 96.7.7.1.1 The fabric smoothness durable-press (DP) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the DP rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 DP rating from that of thefabric before it is laundered or dry-cleaned.7.8 Flammability
42、 The flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, exceptwhen regulated by applicable Government mandatory stan-dards.8. Keywords8.1 necktiesASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item
43、 mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical commi
44、ttee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a me
45、eting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive,
46、 PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the ASTM website (www.astm.org/COPYRIGHT/).D3785 1313
