1、Designation: D 3939 08Standard Test Method forSnagging Resistance of Fabrics (Mace)1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3939; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in
2、parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This test method determines the snagging resistance of afabric.1.2 Studies of fabric snagging have shown that this testmethod is suitable for a r
3、ange of woven and knitted fabricsmade from textured or untextured filament yarns or spun yarnsor combinations of these yarns.2,3This test method is notsuitable for (1) open construction fabrics (such as a net)because the points on the mace will snag the felt pad ratherthan the specimen, (2) very hea
4、vy or very stiff fabrics thatcannot be made to fit tightly on the drum and felt pad, and (3)tufted or nonwoven fabrics because the apparatus is designedfor woven and knitted fabrics.1.3 If after using this test method it is found to be too severefor your fabrics, an alternative method can be used, s
5、uch as BS8479 Textiles: Method for Determination of the Propensity ofFabrics to Snagging and Related Surface Defects - RotatingChamber Method.1.4 The values stated in either acceptable metric units or inother units shall be regarded separately as the standard. Thevalues stated in each system may not
6、 be exact equivalents;therefore, each system must be used independently of the other,without combining values in any way. In case of refereedecisions, the metric units will prevail.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresp
7、onsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use. Specific precau-tionary statements are given in Section 7.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:4D 123 Terminology Relating to Te
8、xtilesD 1335 Test Method for Tuft Bind of Pile Yarn FloorCoveringsD 1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing TextilesD 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 3136 Terminology Relating to Care Labeling forApparel,Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather ProductsD 4467 Pract
9、ice for Interlaboratory Testing of a Textile TestMethod That Produces Non-Normally Distributed DataD 4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric TestMethodsD 5362 Test Method for Snagging Resistance of Fabrics(Bean Bag)2.2 AATCC Standards:565 Test Method for Snag Resistance of Womens NylonHosier
10、y (see Note 1)135 Test Method for Dimensional Changes in AutomaticHome Laundering of Woven and Knit FabricsNOTE 1In 1988, the AATCC voted to withdraw this test method fromits technical manual; however, the ASTM task group on fabric snaggingdecided it should be listed as an alternative for testing op
11、en constructionfabrics.3. Terminology3.1 For definitions of textile terms used in this test method:(color contrast, in textiles; distortion, in fabrics; protrusion, infabrics; snag, in fabrics; snagging resistance, in fabrics), referto Terminology D 4850.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms us
12、ed in this testmethod, refer to Terminology D 123.1This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,General.Current edition approved July 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originallyapproved in 1
13、980. Last previous edition approved in 2004 as D 3939 03(2004).2Finnigan, J. A., “Laboratory Prediction of the Tendency of a Fabric to SnagDuring Wear,” Textile Institute and Industry , Vol 10, No. 6, 1972, pp. 164167.3Leung, P., and Hershkowitz, R., “Snag- and Fuzz-Resistant Double Knits viaFabric
14、Construction,” Textile Research Journal , Vol 45, No. 2, 1975, pp. 93102.4For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe A
15、STM website.5Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.4. Summary of Test Method4.1 A tubular specimen is pl
16、aced on a cylindrical drum.Then a mace (spiked ball) bounces randomly against therotating specimen. Snags are produced to a degree affected bya variety of factors. The degree of fabric snagging is thenevaluated by comparison of the tested specimens with visualstandards that may be either fabrics or
17、photographs of fabrics.The observed resistance to snagging is reported on a scaleranging from 5 (no or insignificant snagging) to 1 (very severesnagging).5. Significance and Use5.1 This test method is not considered satisfactory foracceptance testing of commercial shipments of fabrics becausethe bet
18、ween-laboratory precision of the test method is poor (see15.1).5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance be-tween reported test results for two laboratories (or more),comparative test should be performed to determine if there is astatistical significant difference between them, using
19、competentstatistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for sucha comparative test that are as homogeneous as possible, drawnfrom the same lot of material as the samples that resulted indisparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned inequal numbers to each laboratory. The test
20、 results from thelaboratories involved should be compared using a statisticaltest for unpaired data, at a probability level chosen prior to thetesting series. If bias is found, either its cause must be foundand corrected or future testing for that material must beadjusted in consideration of the sta
21、tistically significant differ-ences.5.2 This test method may be used for quality control testingof fabrics during manufacturing and product comparisons ofdifferent fabrics by manufacturers, retailers, and users. This testmethod may also be used by researchers to examine the effectof new fibers, yarn
22、s, fabric constructions, and finishes on thesnagging resistance of fabrics.5.3 This test method may be used to test the snaggingresistance of most apparel and home furnishings fabrics.However, a different test method may be needed for differenttypes of fabrics and different end-uses (such as towels,
23、 pants,and upholstery) (see 5.3.1).5.3.1 Some fabrics that may not be suitable for this testmethod are described in 1.2. Many open construction fabricscan be tested for snagging resistance using AATCC TestMethod 65. The snagging resistance of many pile floorcoverings can be tested by Test Method D 1
24、335. Test MethodD 5362 (Bean Bag) may also be considered as an alternativefor testing the snagging resistance of fabrics.5.4 Since fabric snagging can be affected by laundering ordrycleaning, it may be advisable to test the snagging resistanceof a fabric before and after laundering or drycleaning.5.
25、5 The snagging resistance of a specific fabric varies withindividual wearers and general conditions of use. Therefore, itcan be expected that garments of the same fabric will show afairly wide snagging resistance spectrum after wear and muchgreater variation in wear than in replicate fabric specimen
26、ssubjected to controlled laboratory tests. This factor should beconsidered when adopting levels of acceptability for anyspecification that includes snagging resistance.5.6 Snags observed in worn garments vary appreciably innumber and appearance. The appearance of a snag dependsparticularly on (1) th
27、e degree of color contrast between thesnag and the surrounding area of the fabric or (2) the presenceof long distortions or long protrusions. These conditions arenot evaluated when snagging is rated solely on the number ofsnags. See Section 13 for a description of color contrast,distortion, and prot
28、rusion as used in this test method; and seeFigs. 1 through 3 in Test Method D 5362 for pictures of fabricdefects due to snagging. Because the overall acceptability of aspecific fabric is dependent on both the characteristics of thesnags and other factors affecting fabric appearance, it isrecommended
29、 that fabrics tested in the laboratory be evaluatedwith regard to the defects that may be observed visually andnot rated solely on the number of snags developed. A series ofvisual rating standards (see 6.2.5) may be set up to provide abasis for the ratings. The visual rating standards are mostadvant
30、ageous when the tested laboratory specimens correlateclosely in appearance with fabrics from a wear test, forexample, when tested laboratory specimens and fabrics from awear test show similar color contrasts. In the precedingexample, a series of fabrics from the wear test would be a goodchoice for t
31、he fabric standards described in 6.2.5.2.6. Apparatus and Materials6.1 Procedure 1:6.1.1 ABC Snag Tester6(see Fig. 1).6.1.2 Specimen Template,6150 by 330 mm or 6 by 13 in.6.1.3 Felt,7for 150- by 330-mm or 6- by 13-in. pads.6.1.4 Gage,6for ABC Snag Tester, for setting position ofmace (calibration blo
32、ck).6.1.5 Masking Tape, 25-mm or 1-in. single-face, and 50-mmor 2-in. double face.6.2 Both Procedures:6.2.1 Sewing Machine, with a sewing needle that is appro-priate for the fabric being tested for snagging resistance, or6.2.2 Sharps Hand Sewing Needle.6.2.3 Sewing Thread, cotton, Tex ticket 35 to 5
33、0, or equiva-lent polyester and cotton.6.2.4 Standard Calibration Fabric, having an establishedsnagging resistance rating that has been agreed upon by thepurchaser and the supplier. (No standard calibration fabric hasbeen specified by Subcommittee D13.59.)6.2.5 Visual Rating Standards:6.2.5.1 Photog
34、raphic StandardsA series of photographsof tested specimens that show the degrees of snagging, such asthe Imperial Chemical Industries (ICI) photographs;7or6.2.5.2 Fabric StandardsA series of tested specimens orfabrics from a wear test that show the degrees of snagging (see5.6 and Note 2).NOTE 2Fabri
35、c standards should be stored and handled under condi-tions that will preserve their original form and appearance. Mount the6For additional information on obtaining apparatus, equipment, or supplies thatmay be suitable for use in this standard, please visit the ASTM ManufacturersEquipment Directory a
36、t www.astm.org7Available from SDLAtlas LLC, 1813AAssociates Lane, Charlotte, NC 28217.D3939082fabric standards using white poster board or plastic or metal framing.6.2.6 Apparatus for Fabric Evaluation, for illumination andsimultaneous viewing of specimens and visual rating stan-dards:6.2.6.1 Appara
37、tus for Fabric Evaluation, (see Fig. 2),7having a single cool white fluorescent (CWF) tube with acorrelated color temperature of 4100 to 4500 K, or6.2.6.2 ICI Viewing Cabinet, (see Fig. 3),7having a singlecool white fluorescent (CWF) tube with a correlated colortemperature of 4100 to 4500 K.6.3 Opti
38、onal Equipment:6.3.1 Steam Iron, weighted to 2.3 kg or 5 lb and an ironingboard.6.3.2 Tumble Dryer, as described in AATCC TestMethod 135.6.3.3 Washing Machine, as described in AATCC TestMethod 135.6.3.4 Detergent, Heavy Duty Granule, the 1993 AATCCStandard Reference Detergent as described in AATCC T
39、estMethod 135. When agreed upon by the purchaser and thesupplier, a substitute detergent that does not include fabricsoftener or bleach may be used.6.3.5 Equipment for Drycleaning Specimens, as described inTest Methods D 2724.7. Hazards7.1 Locate the mace snag tester in a low-traffic area becauseof
40、the danger from the exposed mace and rotating drum.7.2 Check that all parts of the mace snag tester are secureand are in good working condition.7.3 Wear protective gloves when examining the points onthe mace snag tester or removing fibers and yarns from themace points.7.4 Observe the following safet
41、y precautions when operat-ing the tester: (1) do not wear loose or dangling clothing thatcan get caught in the mace points or moving parts; (2)donotattempt to change a specimen while the drum is rotating; and(3) do not injure your hands on the sharp mace points whenplacing a specimen on the drum.8.
42、Sampling8.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls of fabric directed in anapplicable material specification or other agreement betweenthe purchaser and the supplier. Consider rolls of fabric to be theprimary sampling unit.8.2 Laboratory Sampling UnitAs a
43、 laboratory samplingunit for acceptance testing, take a full width swatch 1-m or1-yd long from the end of each roll of fabric in the lot sample,after first discarding the outermost layer of fabric. Whendrycleaning and laundering are to be performed, take addi-tional swatches for the laundering and d
44、rycleaning tests.8.3 SpecimensTest four specimens from each swatch inthe laboratory sampling unit. When drycleaning and launderingtests are to be performed, test four additional specimens fordrycleaning and four additional specimens for laundering.9. Preparation of the Specimens9.1 When snagging res
45、istance after laundering or dryclean-ing is to be evaluated, launder or dryclean the swatches asdirected in 9.1.1 or 9.1.2 before cutting the specimens.9.1.1 LaunderingLoad the washer with a 3.5-kg or 8-lbtotal load of swatches that comprise a homogeneous load (forexample, same manufacturer, same li
46、ne, same finishing, andsame previous care) or a homogeneous group of swatches fortesting and a desized unsoftened group of ballast fabrics. Selectnormal cycle, warm water temperature, and the 1993 AATCCStandard Reference Detergent (see Terminology D 3136 andAATCC Test Method 135). Run one machine cy
47、cle and do notuse softener. Load the dryer with the washed fabrics. Selectnormal cycle, medium temperature, and run the dryer for 20min or until the fabrics are dry to the touch. Do not use softenerin the dryer. Do not overdry the fabrics (see Note 3).NOTE 3When agreed upon by the purchaser and the
48、supplier, otherFIG. 1 ABC Mace TesterD3939083laundering and drycleaning procedures may be used.9.1.2 DrycleaningFollow the procedure given in TestMethods D 2724 (see Note 3).9.2 Using the template (see 6.1.2 ), cut the followingspecimens: (1) for determination of the snagging resistance ofthe fabric
49、 in the lengthwise (machine) direction, cut twoMetric Equivalentsin. mm in. mm132 1 8 2030.7 18 812 2152 50 12 3054 100 15 380614 159 2114 5406516 160 37 940712 190 40 1020FIG. 2 Apparatus for Fabric EvaluationFIG. 3 ICI Viewing CabinetD3939084specimens, with the shorter dimension parallel to the length-wise direction of the fabric; and (2) for determination ofsnagging resistance of the fabric in the widthwise direction, cuttwo specimens, with the shorter dimension parallel to thewidthwise direction. Do not take the specimens nearer theselvage than one tenth th
