1、Designation:D399099 (Reapproved 2008) Designation: D3990 12Standard Terminology Relating toFabric Defects1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3990; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last r
2、evision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.1. Scope1.1 This terminology covers defects in both wov
3、en and knit fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and relatedmaterial are given under the most frequently used terms; synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.2. Terminology2.1 Definitions:abrasion mark, nan area damaged by friction. (Syn. chafe mark)apron markSee dec
4、ating mark.baggy clothSee wavy cloth.baggy selvageSee slack selvage.balling upSee fuzz ball.barr, nan unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of continuous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of woven fabricor to the courses of circular knit fabric. (Compare warp streak, mixed filling)
5、DISCUSSIONThe term “barr” is sometimes used as a synonym for “warp streaks” in warp knit and woven fabrics. Barr can be caused by physical,optical, or dye differences in the yarns, geometric differences in the fabric structure, or by any combination of these differences.beaded selvageSee loopy selva
6、ge.biasSee skew.birdseye, nin knitted fabrics, an unintentional tuck stitch.blanket markSee sanforizing mark.blotch, nan offcolored area of any shape caused by grease or oil. (Syn. oil spot)bow, na fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or knitting courses are displaced from a line perpendicu
7、lar to the selvagesand form one or more arcs across the width of fabric. (See also double bow)bow, doubleSee double bow.box markSee shuttle mark.break-outSee smash.broken end, nin woven fabrics, a void in the warp direction due to yarn breakage.broken filament, nin multifilament yarn, breaks in one
8、or more filaments. (Syn. strip back, skin back)1This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods, General.Current edition approved July 1, 2008.2012. Published October 2008.August 2012. Original
9、ly approved as an appendix to Terminology D123 in 1964. Redesignated D3990in 1981. Last previous edition approved in 20042008 as D3990 99 (2004).(2008). DOI: 10.1520/D3990-99R08.10.1520/D3990-12.1This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an in
10、dication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Becauseit may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current versionof the standard as published by ASTM is to be
11、 considered the official document.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.broken pick, n in woven fabrics, a discontinuity in the filling direction caused by a break or cut in the filling yarn.broken selvageSee cut selvage.bru
12、ise, nin fabrics, an area that has been subjected to impact or pressure, that differs from the adjacent normal fabric. (Syn.pressure mark.)bunchSee slug.chafe markSee abrasion mark.clip mark, na visual deformation near the edge of a fabric parallel with the lengthwise direction caused by pressure ex
13、erted bya clasping device on a clip tenter frame. (See also pin mark.)coarse end, na larger than normal diameter warp end. (Syn. heavy end) (Compare fine end)coarse fillingSee coarse pick.coarse pick, n in woven fabrics, one or more picks of larger diameter than the normal filling yarn in the fabric
14、. (Syn. thick filling)cockles, nin yarns, irregular thick, uneven, lumps.color bleeding, nthe loss of color from a dyed fabric when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid medium,with consequent coloring of the liquid medium. (Compare color staining.)color staining, nthe undesired
15、 pickup of color by a fabric: (1) when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquidmedium, that contains dyestuffs or coloring material not intended for coloring the fabric, or (2) by direct contact with other dyedmaterial from which color is transferred by bleeding or sublimation. (Co
16、mpare crocking, color bleeding)corded selvageSee loopy selvage.crack mark, nan open place causing a streak of variable length approximately parallel to the length or width. (Syn. open place,thin spot)crease, na fabric defect evidenced by a break, line, or mark generally caused by a sharp fold. (Syn.
17、 mill wrinkle)crease mark, na visible deformation left in a fabric after a crease has been incompletely removed during fabric processing.crocking, na transfer of color from the surface of a colored fabric to an adjacent area of the same fabric or to another surfaceprincipally by rubbing action. (Com
18、pare color staining)D3990 122crowsfeet, nin fabrics, fine wrinkles of varying degrees of intensity, size, and shape.DISCUSSIONCrowsfeet may occur during wet processing and on finished goods after folding.curlSee kink.curled selvage, nself-descriptive. (Syn. rolled selvage, turned-over edge)cut pickS
19、ee broken pick.cut selvage, ncuts or breaks that occur in the selvage only. (Syn. broken selvage, damaged selvage)damaged selvageSee cut selvage.dead cotton, na small nep of cotton fibers which is gathered on the surface of the fabric and which is different in color fromthe surrounding fabric.decati
20、ng mark, na crease mark or impression extending across the cloth near the beginning or end of a piece due to the thicknessof the fabric leader seam. (Syn. apron mark, leader mark)doctor streak, nin printed cloth, a wavy white or colored streak in the warp direction of printed cloth caused by a defec
21、tivedoctor blade.double bow, ntwo fabric bows, arcing in the same direction, as in a flattened M or W depending on the viewing angle. (See alsobow) (Compare double reverse bow)double hooked bow, none hooked bow at each side of the fabric that arc in opposite directions. (See also hooked bow)double p
22、ick, n in woven fabrics, two picks wrongly placed in the same shed. (See also mispick) (Compare jerk-in )double reverse bow, ntwo fabric bows arcing in opposite directions. (See also bow ) (Compare double bow)draw-back, na weave distortion characterized by tight and slack places in the same warp yar
23、n. (Syn. hitch-back)dropped stitch, nin knitted fabrics, an unknitted stitch.dye spotSee dyestain.dyestain, nan area of unintended discoloration due to uneven absorption of a colorant.dye streak, nan unintended irregular stripe in a fabric due to uneven absorption of a colorant.end out, na void caus
24、ed by a missing warp yarn. (Syn. missing end)filling band, n in woven fabrics, a visual defect across the width due to a change occurring in the yarn for a large number ofpicks. (Compare filling bar)filling bar, n in woven fabrics, a visual defect across the width which contains a limited number of
25、picks of different appearancethan normal. (Compare filling band)D3990 123filling run-outSee broken pick.fine end, n.a smaller than normal diameter warp end. (Syn. light end, thin end) (Compare coarse end)fine fillingSee thin filling.fine pickSee thin filling.finger mark, nan irregular spot showing v
26、ariation in picks per inch for a limited width.finishing bar, nan uneven appearance across the entire fabric width.float, na defect in which warp or filling yarn extends unbound over the ends with which it should be interlaced. (Syn. harnessskip, overshot, skip) in woven fabrics, that portion of a w
27、arp or filling yarn that extends unbound over two or more warp orfilling yarns; in knitted fabrics, that portion of a yarn that is not knitted into loops.D4850DISCUSSIONIf intentionally introduced, floats are a constructional characteristic of knit or woven fabrics. If unintentionally present, they
28、areconsidered to be defects.flyerSee loom fly.frosting, na change in color in a limited area of a fabric caused by abrasive wear.DISCUSSIONFrosting may be the result of differential wear, as in multicomponent blends in which the fibers do not match in shade, or of the abrasionof single-fiber constru
29、ctions in which there is some variation in penetration, or incomplete penetration, of dye-stuff. The use of the terms “differentialwear” and “fibrillation” as substitutes for the concept of frosting is undesirable.fuzz ball, nloose and frayed fibers that have formed into a ball and have then been wo
30、ven or knitted into the fabric. (Syn. lintball, snow ball) (Compare pills)fuzzy, adjcharacterized by a hairy appearance due to protruding broken fibers or filaments. (Syn. hairy)D3990 124gout, nforeign matter trapped in a fabric by accident, usually lint or waste. (See also slug)hairySee fuzzy.hang
31、pick, na pick, caught on a warp yarn knot for a short distance, producing a triangular-shaped hole in the fabric. (Syn. hangshot)hang shotSee hang pick.hard endSee tight twist end.hard size, nsections of cloth containing an excessive quantity of sizing. (Syn. starch lump)harness skipSee float.heavy
32、endSee coarse end.heavy fillingSee coarse pick.heavy pickSee coarse pick.hitch-backSee draw-back.hole, nin fabric, an imperfection where one or more yarns are sufficiently damaged to create an aperture.hooked bow, na fabric condition in which the filling or course yarns are in the proper position fo
33、r most of the fabric width butare pulled out of alignment at one side of the fabric. (See also double hooked bow)jerk-in, nin woven fabric, an extra filling thread dragged into the shed with the regular pick and extending only part of the wayacross the cloth. (Syn. lash-in, pull-in) (Compare double
34、pick)kink, nin fabric, a short length of yarn that has spontaneously doubled back on itself to form a loop. (Syn. curl, kinky thread,looped yarn, snarl)D3990 125kinky threadSee kink.ladderSee run.lash-inSee jerk-in.leader markSee decating mark.let-off mark, n in woven fabrics, a corrugated defect pa
35、ttern distributed across the fabric width. (Compare shier)DISCUSSIONLet-off marks are caused by badly adjusted let-off motions of a loom.light endSee fine end.light fillingSee thin filling.light pickSee thin filling.lint ballSee fuzz ball.long knot, nin raw silk, knots which have loose ends from 3 t
36、o 25 mm in length.long slug, nin raw silk, a slug which exceeds 10 mm (12 in.) in length or which is very much larger in diameter than the yarn.loom fly, nwaste fibers created during weaving that are woven into a fabric. (Syn. flyer)looped yarnSee kink.loopy edgeSee loopy selvage.loopy selvage, nan
37、improperly woven selvage of uneven width or a selvage containing irregular filling loops extending beyondthe outside edges. (Syn. beaded selvage, corded selvage, loopy edge, rough selvage)loose course, n in knitted fabrics, a row of loops in the widthwise direction that is larger, looser, or longer
38、than the stitches inthe main body of the fabric.loose edgeSee slack selvage.loose pickSee slack pick.lumpSee slub, slug.mill wrinkleSee crease.misclipSee scalloped selvage.misdrawSee wrong draw.mispick, nin woven fabrics, a pick not properly interlaced which causes a break in the weave pattern. (Syn
39、. wrong pick) (Seealso double pick)misprint, nin printed fabric, colors or patterns, or both, either missed, or partially missed, or incorrectly positioned relative toeach other.misregister, n in printed fabric, colors or patterns not correctly positioned. (Compare misprint.)missing endSee end out.m
40、issing pickSee broken pick.miss-knit, nin knitted fabrics, a deviation from the designated knitting pattern.D3990 126mixed end, nin woven fabrics, a warp yarn differing from that normally being used in the fabric.mixed filling, nin woven fabrics, a filling yarn differing from that normally being use
41、d in the fabric. (See also filling band)(Compare barr)mote trashSee trash.mussiness, nsurface distortion in a fabric characterized by objectionable uneveness due to many minor deformations.nep, na tightly tangled knot-like mass of unorganized fibers. (Compare pills.)open placeSee crack mark.overshot
42、See float.pick-out mark, na fillingwise band or bar characterized by a chafed or fuzzy appearance.pick-out placeSee temple mark.piecing, na thick place in a spun yarn caused by poor splicing.pills, nbunches or balls of tangled fibers which are held to the surface of a fabric by one or more fibers. (
43、Compare fuzz ball)pin hole, nin fabrics, a very small hole, approximately the size of the cross section of a pin.pin mark, na series of holes near the edge parallel with the lengthwise direction of a fabric caused by the holding device ona pin tenter frame. (See also clip mark.)press-off, nin knitte
44、d fabrics, a condition in which the yarn fails to knit and either the fabric falls off the needles or the designis distorted or incomplete.pressure mark, nSee bruise.pull-inSee jerk-in.reed mark, nin woven fabrics, a crack between groups of warp ends, either continuous or at intervals.reedy warpSee
45、reed mark.ring, nin hosiery, a narrow, visually different horizontal band.ripped selvageSee cut selvage.rolled selvageSee curled selvage.rope mark, nin dyed or finished fabrics, a long irregularly shifting longitudinal mechanically induced streak.rough, adja descriptive term for a fabric surface whi
46、ch has the feel of sandpaper.rough selvageSee loopy selvage.run, nin knitted fabrics, a series of dropped stitches. (See dropped stitch)(Syn. ladder)sanforizing mark, na crimped, rippled, wavy, pebbled, or cockled place showing distortion of the texture. (Syn. blanket mark)scalloped selvage, nan abr
47、upt, narrow indentation in the selvage. (Syn. misclip)seam mark, nin finished cloth, a pressure mark caused by the thickness of the seam being pressed against the cloth.section mark, n in woven fabrics, warp bands of different color, texture, or luster.selvage mark, n in finished cloth, a lengthwise
48、 crease mark along the selvage caused by an edge being folded or doubled.set mark, na stop mark resulting from a prolonged loom shutdown.D3990 127shier, nin woven fabrics, fine fillingwise cracks randomly distributed across the fabric width. (Syn. shire) (Compare let-off markand crack mark)shiner, n
49、a streak, usually short caused by a lustrous section of filament yarn.shuttle mark, n in woven fabrics, a fine fillingwise line caused by damage to a group of warp yarns by shuttle abrasion. (Syn.box mark)skew, na fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or knitted courses are angularly displaced from a line perpendicular to theedge or side of the fabric.skin backSee broken filament.skipSee float.slack end, na war
