1、Designation: D3990 121Standard Terminology Relating toFabric Defects1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3990; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indi
2、cates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.1NOTETerms from Test Method D7811 were added editorially in August 2013.1. Scope1.1 This ter
3、minology covers defects in both woven and knitfabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and relatedmaterial are given under the most frequently used terms;synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:D1776 Practice for Conditioning an
4、d Testing TextilesD7811 Test Method For Bow and Skew using a MeasuringTool3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:abrasion mark, nan area damaged by friction. (Syn. chafemark)apron markSee decating mark.baggy clothSee wavy cloth.baggy selvageSee slack selvage.balling upSee fuzz ball.barr, nan unintentional, r
5、epetitive visual pattern of continu-ous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of wovenfabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric. (Comparewarp streak, mixed filling)DISCUSSIONThe term “barr” is sometimes used as a synonym for“warp streaks” in warp knit and woven fabrics. Barr can be
6、 caused byphysical, optical, or dye differences in the yarns, geometric differencesin the fabric structure, or by any combination of these differences.beaded selvageSee loopy selvage.biasSee skew.birdseye, nin knitted fabrics, an unintentional tuck stitch.blanket markSee sanforizing mark.blotch, nan
7、 offcolored area of any shape caused by grease oroil. (Syn. oil spot)bow, na fabric condition resulting when filling yarns orknitting courses are displaced from a line perpendicular tothe selvages and form one or more arcs across the width offabric. (See also double bow)bow, doubleSee double bow.box
8、 markSee shuttle mark.break-outSee smash.broken end, nin woven fabrics, a void in the warp directiondue to yarn breakage.broken filament, nin multifilament yarn, breaks in one ormore filaments. (Syn. strip back, skin back)1This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textilesan
9、d is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,General.Current edition approved July 1, 2012. Published August 2012. Originallyapproved as an appendix to Terminology D123 in 1964. Redesignated D3990 in1981. Last previous edition approved in 2012 as D3990 12. DOI: 10.152
10、0/D3990-12E01.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States1broken pick, n in woven fabrics, a discontinuity in the fillingdirection caused by a break or cut in the filling yarn.broken selvageSee cut selvage.bruise, nin fabrics, an
11、area that has been subjected to impactor pressure, that differs from the adjacent normal fabric.(Syn. pressure mark.)bunchSee slug.chafe markSee abrasion mark.clip mark, na visual deformation near the edge of a fabricparallel with the lengthwise direction caused by pressureexerted by a clasping devi
12、ce on a clip tenter frame. (See alsopin mark.)coarse end, na larger than normal diameter warp end. (Syn.heavy end) (Compare fine end)coarse fillingSee coarse pick.coarse pick, n in woven fabrics, one or more picks of largerdiameter than the normal filling yarn in the fabric. (Syn. thickfilling)cockl
13、es, nin yarns, irregular thick, uneven, lumps.color bleeding, nthe loss of color from a dyed fabric whenimmersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquidmedium, with consequent coloring of the liquid medium.(Compare color staining.)color staining, nthe undesired pickup of color by a fabric:
14、(1) when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similarliquid medium, that contains dyestuffs or coloring materialnot intended for coloring the fabric, or (2) by direct contactwith other dyed material from which color is transferred bybleeding or sublimation. (Compare crocking, color bleed-ing)
15、corded selvageSee loopy selvage.crack mark, nan open place causing a streak of variablelength approximately parallel to the length or width. (Syn.open place, thin spot)crease, na fabric defect evidenced by a break, line, or markgenerally caused by a sharp fold. (Syn. mill wrinkle)crease mark, na vis
16、ible deformation left in a fabric after acrease has been incompletely removed during fabric process-ing.crocking, na transfer of color from the surface of a coloredfabric to an adjacent area of the same fabric or to anothersurface principally by rubbing action. (Compare color stain-ing)crowsfeet, ni
17、n fabrics, fine wrinkles of varying degrees ofintensity, size, and shape.DISCUSSIONCrowsfeet may occur during wet processing and onfinished goods after folding.curlSee kink.curled selvage, nself-descriptive. (Syn. rolled selvage,turned-over edge)cut pickSee broken pick.cut selvage, ncuts or breaks t
18、hat occur in the selvage only.(Syn. broken selvage, damaged selvage)damaged selvageSee cut selvage.dead cotton, na small nep of cotton fibers which is gatheredon the surface of the fabric and which is different in colorfrom the surrounding fabric.D3990 1212decating mark, na crease mark or impression
19、 extendingacross the cloth near the beginning or end of a piece due tothe thickness of the fabric leader seam. (Syn. apron mark,leader mark)doctor streak, nin printed cloth, a wavy white or coloredstreak in the warp direction of printed cloth caused by adefective doctor blade.double bow, ntwo fabric
20、 bows, arcing in the same direction,as in a flattened M or W depending on the viewing angle.(See also bow) (Compare double reverse bow)DISCUSSIONIn tubular knits, there may be differential bowingbetween the top and bottom of the tube.double hooked bow, none hooked bow at each side of thefabric that
21、arc in opposite directions. (See also hooked bow)double pick, n in woven fabrics, two picks wrongly placedin the same shed. (See also mispick) (Compare jerk-in )double reverse bow, ntwo fabric bows arcing in oppositedirections. (See also bow and double hooked bow) (Com-pare double bow)draw-back, na
22、weave distortion characterized by tight andslack places in the same warp yarn. (Syn. hitch-back)dropped stitch, nin knitted fabrics, an unknitted stitch.dye spotSee dyestain.dyestain, nan area of unintended discoloration due to unevenabsorption of a colorant.dye streak, nan unintended irregular stri
23、pe in a fabric due touneven absorption of a colorant.end out, na void caused by a missing warp yarn. (Syn.missing end)filling band, n in woven fabrics, a visual defect across thewidth due to a change occurring in the yarn for a largenumber of picks. (Compare filling bar)filling bar, n in woven fabri
24、cs, a visual defect across thewidth which contains a limited number of picks of differentappearance than normal. (Compare filling band)filling run-outSee broken pick.fine end, n.a smaller than normal diameter warp end. (Syn.light end, thin end) (Compare coarse end)fine fillingSee thin filling.fine p
25、ickSee thin filling.finger mark, nan irregular spot showing variation in picksper inch for a limited width.finishing bar, nan uneven appearance across the entire fabricwidth.float, nin woven fabrics, that portion of a warp or filling yarnthat extends unbound over two or more warp or filling yarns;in
26、 knitted fabrics, that portion of a yarn that is not knittedinto loops.D4850DISCUSSIONIf intentionally introduced, floats are a constructionalcharacteristic of knit or woven fabrics. If unintentionally present, theyare considered to be defects.D3990 1213flyerSee loom fly.frosting, na change in color
27、 in a limited area of a fabriccaused by abrasive wear.DISCUSSIONFrosting may be the result of differential wear, as inmulticomponent blends in which the fibers do not match in shade, or ofthe abrasion of single-fiber constructions in which there is somevariation in penetration, or incomplete penetra
28、tion, of dye-stuff. Theuse of the terms “differential wear” and “fibrillation” as substitutes forthe concept of frosting is undesirable.fuzz ball, nloose and frayed fibers that have formed into aball and have then been woven or knitted into the fabric.(Syn. lint ball, snow ball) (Compare pills)fuzzy
29、, adjcharacterized by a hairy appearance due to pro-truding broken fibers or filaments. (Syn. hairy)gout, nforeign matter trapped in a fabric by accident, usuallylint or waste. (See also slug)hairySee fuzzy.hang pick, na pick, caught on a warp yarn knot for a shortdistance, producing a triangular-sh
30、aped hole in the fabric.(Syn. hang shot)hang shotSee hang pick.hard endSee tight twist end.hard size, nsections of cloth containing an excessive quan-tity of sizing. (Syn. starch lump)harness skipSee float.heavy endSee coarse end.heavy fillingSee coarse pick.heavy pickSee coarse pick.hitch-backSee d
31、raw-back.hole, nin fabric, an imperfection where one or more yarnsare sufficiently damaged to create an aperture.hooked bow, na fabric condition in which the filling yarns orknitted courses are in the proper position for most of thefabric width but are pulled out of alignment at one side of thefabri
32、c. (See also double hooked bow)jerk-in, nin woven fabric, an extra filling thread dragged intothe shed with the regular pick and extending only part of theway across the cloth. (Syn. lash-in, pull-in) (Comparedouble pick)kink, nin fabric, a short length of yarn that has spontane-ously doubled back o
33、n itself to form a loop. (Syn. curl, kinkythread, looped yarn, snarl)kinky threadSee kink.knitted fabric, na structure produced by interlooping one ormore ends of yarn or comparable materials.ladderSee run.lash-inSee jerk-in.leader markSee decating mark.let-off mark, n in woven fabrics, a corrugated
34、 defect patterndistributed across the fabric width. (Compare shier)DISCUSSIONLet-off marks are caused by badly adjusted let-offmotions of a loom.light endSee fine end.light fillingSee thin filling.light pickSee thin filling.lint ballSee fuzz ball.long knot, nin raw silk, knots which have loose ends
35、from 3to 25 mm in length.long slug, nin raw silk, a slug which exceeds 10 mm (12 in.)in length or which is very much larger in diameter than theyarn.loom fly, nwaste fibers created during weaving that arewoven into a fabric. (Syn. flyer)D3990 1214looped yarnSee kink.loopy edgeSee loopy selvage.loopy
36、 selvage, nan improperly woven selvage of unevenwidth or a selvage containing irregular filling loops extend-ing beyond the outside edges. (Syn. beaded selvage, cordedselvage, loopy edge, rough selvage)loose course, n in knitted fabrics, a row of loops in thewidthwise direction that is larger, loose
37、r, or longer than thestitches in the main body of the fabric.loose edgeSee slack selvage.loose pickSee slack pick.lumpSee slub, slug.mill wrinkleSee crease.misclipSee scalloped selvage.misdrawSee wrong draw.mispick, nin woven fabrics, a pick not properly interlacedwhich causes a break in the weave p
38、attern. (Syn. wrong pick)(See also double pick)misprint, nin printed fabric, colors or patterns, or both,either missed, or partially missed, or incorrectly positionedrelative to each other.misregister, n in printed fabric, colors or patterns notcorrectly positioned. (Compare misprint.)missing endSee
39、 end out.missing pickSee broken pick.miss-knit, nin knitted fabrics, a deviation from the desig-nated knitting pattern.mixed end, nin woven fabrics, a warp yarn differing fromthat normally being used in the fabric.mixed filling, nin woven fabrics, a filling yarn differing fromthat normally being use
40、d in the fabric. (See also fillingband) (Compare barr)mote trashSee trash.mussiness, nsurface distortion in a fabric characterized byobjectionable uneveness due to many minor deformations.nep, na tightly tangled knot-like mass of unorganized fibers.(Compare pills.)open placeSee crack mark.overshotSe
41、e float.pick-out mark, na fillingwise band or bar characterized bya chafed or fuzzy appearance.pick-out placeSee temple mark.piecing, na thick place in a spun yarn caused by poorsplicing.pills, nbunches or balls of tangled fibers which are held tothe surface of a fabric by one or more fibers. (Compa
42、re fuzzball)pin hole, nin fabrics, a very small hole, approximately thesize of the cross section of a pin.pin mark, na series of holes near the edge parallel with thelengthwise direction of a fabric caused by the holding deviceon a pin tenter frame. (See also clip mark.)press-off, nin knitted fabric
43、s, a condition in which the yarnfails to knit and either the fabric falls off the needles or thedesign is distorted or incomplete.pressure mark, nSee bruise.pull-inSee jerk-in.reed mark, nin woven fabrics, a crack between groups ofwarp ends, either continuous or at intervals.reedy warpSee reed mark.
44、ring, nin hosiery, a narrow, visually different horizontalband.ripped selvageSee cut selvage.rolled selvageSee curled selvage.rope mark, nin dyed or finished fabrics, a long irregularlyshifting longitudinal mechanically induced streak.rough, adja descriptive term for a fabric surface which hasthe fe
45、el of sandpaper.rough selvageSee loopy selvage.run, nin knitted fabrics, a series of dropped stitches. (Seedropped stitch)(Syn. ladder)D3990 1215sanforizing mark, na crimped, rippled, wavy, pebbled, orcockled place showing distortion of the texture. (Syn. blan-ket mark)scalloped selvage, nan abrupt,
46、 narrow indentation in theselvage. (Syn. misclip)seam mark, nin finished cloth, a pressure mark caused bythe thickness of the seam being pressed against the cloth.section mark, n in woven fabrics, warp bands of differentcolor, texture, or luster.selvage mark, n in finished cloth, a lengthwise crease
47、 markalong the selvage caused by an edge being folded ordoubled.set mark, na stop mark resulting from a prolonged loomshutdown.shier, nin woven fabrics, fine fillingwise cracks randomlydistributed across the fabric width. (Syn. shire) (Comparelet-off mark and crack mark)shiner, na streak, usually sh
48、ort caused by a lustrous sectionof filament yarn.shuttle mark, n in woven fabrics, a fine fillingwise linecaused by damage to a group of warp yarns by shuttleabrasion. (Syn. box mark)skew, na fabric condition resulting when filling yarns orknitted courses are angularly displaced from a line perpen-d
49、icular to the edge or side of the fabric.DISCUSSIONSome industries use the word bias as a synonym forskew.DISCUSSIONKnitted courses or filling yarns usually appear asstraight line at right angles to the edge or side of the fabric. Whentubular knitted fabric is finished, differential skew may occur on the topand bottom part of the tube.skin backSee broken filament.skipSee float.slack end, na warp yarn woven under i
