1、Designation: D3991 94 (Reapproved 2012)1Standard Specifications forFineness of Wool or Mohair and Assignment of Grade1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3991; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the ye
2、ar of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1NOTEThe terminology section was updated in July 2012.1. Scope1.1 These specifications cover the classification, by fineness
3、grade, of wool or mohair that is in the grease, pulled, washed,or scoured state, or in the form of card sliver.1.2 These specifications are applicable also to assignment ofgrade for wool or mohair in spun materials or productsprocessed beyond carding on the woolen system but not on theworsted system
4、 which involves a combing process.NOTE 1For fineness specifications for wool top, mohair top, andalpaca, refer to Specifications D3992 and D2252.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD2130 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and OtherAnimal Fibers by Microproje
5、ctionD2252 Specification for Fineness of Types of AlpacaD3992 Specifications for Fineness of Wool Top or MohairTop and Assignment of GradeD4845 Terminology Relating to Wool2.2 Federal Standards:Official Standards of the United States for Grades of Wool,Section 31.03Measurement Method for Determining
6、 Grade of Wool,Section 31.2043Official Standards of the United States for Grades of GreaseMohair, Section 32.14Measurement Method for Determining Grade of GreaseMohair, Section 32.2044NOTE 2A discussion on the development of grease mohair standardscan be found in the literature.5,63. Terminology3.1
7、For all terminology related to D13.13, refer to Termi-nology D4845.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:average fiber diameter, fineness, grade, mohair, wool.3.2 For all other terminology related to textiles, refer toTerminology D123.4. Requirements4.1 The grade of wool shall conf
8、orm to the requirements ofTable 1.4.2 The grade of mohair shall conform to the requirementsof Table 2.5. Significance and Use5.1 These specifications are considered satisfactory for clas-sifying wool or mohair by grade and provide a basis foracceptance of commercial shipments.5.2 Grade determined by
9、 visual examination is a commontrade practice. In case of doubt or dispute, comparison of themeasured average fiber diameter and fiber diameter standarddeviation with the respective specification shall be used as thereferee procedure for assigning grade.5.3 This specification is not intended for app
10、lication tomixed lots, that is, lots of wool or mohair consisting of fleecesof different grades that are to be segregated into smaller morehomogeneous lots before use.6. Test Method6.1 Test the material as directed in Test Method D2130.Measure at least the minimum number of fibers needed toattain co
11、nfidence limits of the mean within 60.4 m at aprobability level of 95 % (see Annex A1 of Test MethodD2130).1These specifications are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and Felt.Current edition approved July 1, 2012
12、. Published August 2012. Originallyapproved in 1981. Last previous edition approved in 2006 as D399194 (2006).Replaces D419 and D3109. DOI: 10.1520/D3991-94R12E01.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book
13、 of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Federal Register, Vol 30, No. 161, Aug. 20, 1965, pp 1082910833.4Federal Register, Vol 36, No. 129, July 3, 1971, pp 1268112685.5Keller, H. R., Ray, H. D., Lineberry, C. T., and Pohle, E. M., “Fine
14、nessRelationship of Grease Mohair, Card Sliver, and Top,” Textile Research Journal,Vol42, No. 2, February 1971.6ASTM Research Report No. D13 1012. A copy is available from ASTMHeadquarters, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Bo
15、x C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.6.1.1 In case of dispute the microprojector procedure, TestMethod D2130, is specified as the referee method.7. Assignment of Grade7.1 Compare the observed average fiber diameter and stan-dard deviation in fiber diameter, determined as directed
16、inSection 6, with the specifications for the various grades for thematerial being tested.7.1.1 WoolAssign the grade that corresponds to the aver-age fiber diameter and maximum standard deviation require-ments specified in Table 1. If the observed standard deviationexceeds the maximum specified for t
17、he grade to which theobserved average fiber diameter corresponds, assign to thewool the next coarser grade. Assignment of grade is illustratedby the following examples:7.1.1.1 Example 1Average fiber diameter, 27.25 m; stan-dard deviation, 6.72 m; assigned grade, 56s.7.1.1.2 Example 2Average fiber di
18、ameter, 27.25 m; stan-dard deviation, 7.80 m; assigned grade, 54s.7.1.1.3 Example 3Average fiber diameter, 27.25 m; stan-dard deviation, 8.50 m; assigned grade, 54s.7.1.2 MohairAssign the grade that corresponds to theaverage fiber diameter and maximum standard deviation re-quirements specified in Ta
19、ble 2. If the observed standarddeviation exceeds the maximum specified for the grade towhich the observed average fiber diameter corresponds, assignto the mohair a dual grade designation, the second designationbeing one grade coarser than the grade to which the averagefiber diameter corresponds. Ass
20、ignment of grade is illustratedby the following examples:7.1.2.1 Example 1Average fiber diameter, 28.50 m; stan-dard deviation, 8.1 m; grade designation, 32s.7.1.2.2 Example 2Average fiber diameter, 28.50 m; stan-dard deviation, 8.6 m; grade designation, 32/30s.7.2 Interpretation of ResultsThe true
21、average fiber diam-eter of a lot of wool or mohair can be determined only bymeasurement of every fiber in the lot. Since this is notpracticable, reliance is placed on the result obtained throughthe measurement of a sample. The likelihood that the observedaverage fiber diameter correctly identifies t
22、he grade increasesas the average approaches the midpoint of the fineness range ofthe grade concerned, and decreases as the average approacheseither limit of such range. The probability of the correctness ofthe grade designation of a lot may be increased by increasingthe number of fibers measured.8.
23、Conformance8.1 When the purchaser and the supplier have agreed uponspecific requirements for fineness, wool or mohair that fails tomeet those requirements may be rejected. Rejection should bereported to the supplier in writing. In case of disagreement withthe results of the tests, the supplier may m
24、ake claim for a retest.9. Keywords9.1 animal fibers (except wool); number grade; wool; yarnASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination
25、 of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdraw
26、n. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your co
27、mments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single o
28、r multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the ASTM website (ww
29、w.astm.org/COPYRIGHT/).TABLE 1 Specifications for Grades of WoolAGradeRange for Average FiberDiameter, mStandard Deviation,max, mFiner than 80s under 17.70 3.5980s 17.70 to 19.14 4.0970s 19.15 to 20.59 4.5964s 20.60 to 22.04 5.1962s 22.05 to 23.49 5.8960s 23.50 to 24.94 6.4958s 24.95 to 26.39 7.0956
30、s 26.40 to 27.84 7.5954s 27.85 to 29.29 8.1950s 29.30 to 30.99 8.6948s 31.00 to 32.69 9.0946s 32.70 to 34.39 9.5944s 34.40 to 36.19 10.0940s 36.20 to 38.09 10.6936s 38.10 to 40.20 11.19Coarser than 36s over 40.20AThe specifications in this table conform to the Official Standards of the UnitedStates
31、for Grades of Wool as promulgated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture,effective Jan. 1, 1966.TABLE 2 Specifications for Grades of MohairAGradeRange for Average FiberDiameter, mStandard Deviation,max, mFiner than 40s under 23.01 7.240s 23.01 to 25.00 7.636s 25.01 to 27.00 8.032s 27.01 to 29.00 8.43
32、0s 29.01 to 31.00 8.828s 31.01 to 33.00 9.226s 33.01 to 35.00 9.624s 35.01 to 37.00 10.022s 37.01 to 39.00 10.520s 39.01 to 41.00 11.018s 41.01 to 43.00 11.5Coarser than 18s over 43.01AThe specifications in this table conform to the Official Standards of the UnitedStates for Grades of Grease Mohair as promulgated by the U.S. Department ofAgriculture, effective Aug. 1, 1971.D3991 94 (2012)12
