1、Designation: D3994 13Standard Performance Specification forWoven Swimwear Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3994; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in par
2、entheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven fabrics foruse in mens, womens and childrens swimwear, composed ofany textile fiber or mixture of textil
3、e fibers.1.2 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.3 The following safety hazards caveat pertains only to thetest method described in this specification: This standard doesnot purport to address all of the safety concer
4、ns, if any,associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of thisstandard to establish appropriate safety and health practicesand determine the applicability of regulatory limitations priorto use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD434 Test
5、 Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn2003)3D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) ApparatusD2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by theTongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Ext
6、ension Tensile Testing Machine)D2622 Test Method for Sulfur in Petroleum Products byWavelength Dispersive X-ray Fluorescence SpectrometryD2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens forTextiles (Withdrawn 2008)3D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation ofTextile Fabrics (Grab Te
7、st)D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel32.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspirationn16.3 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated106 Colorfastness to Water: Sea107 Colorfastness to
8、 Water116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod129 Colorfastness to Ozone in the Atmosphere Under HighHumidities135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Launder-ing162 Colorfastness to Water: Chlorinated Pool172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach inHome Launderi
9、ng188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure No. 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure No. 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure No. 8 AATCC 9-Step ChromaticTransference Scale2.3 Federal Standard:16 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing T
10、ex-tiles516 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product SafetyCommission, Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics ActRegulations52.4 Military Standard:MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by Attributes6NOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only thepermanent part of the designation o
11、f ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved July 1, 2013. Publis
12、hed August 2013. Originallyapproved in 1981. Last previous edition approved in 2008 as D3994 02(2008).DOI: 10.1520/D3994-13.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, r
13、efer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.5Ava
14、ilable from Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government PrintingOffice, Washington, DC 20402.6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Cons
15、hohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States13. Terminology3.1 For definitions of textile terms used in this specification,refer to Terminologies D123 and D7022. For terms relating tochemical or colorfastness testing, refer to specific AATCCmethods.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabric
16、s for woven swimwear shallconform to the specification requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meetall of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recogniz
17、ed that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purch
18、aser and the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D3994,except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontrover
19、sy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and testmethods are discussed in the appropriate sec
20、tions of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Acceptance Testing LotUnless there is prior agreementconsider as a lot for acceptance testing all material of a singleitem received as a single shipment.6.2 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing, takeat random the number of rolls as direct
21、ed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and theseller, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.3 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.TABLE
22、 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class in a, b, and c is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color changeor color transfer.Characteristic Requirements SectionBreaking strength (load)A(CRT): 7.1Nonstretch fabrics 133 N (30 lbf), m
23、inStretch fabrics 89 N (20 lbf), min 40 % or greaterelongationYarn slippage14-in. (6-mm) separation 89 N (20 lbf), min 7.2Tear strength (nonstretch direction) 6.7 N (1.5 lbf), min 7.3Dimensional change:Laundering 3 %, max 7.4.1Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes1 cycle 7.5.1Shade change, originalfabric an
24、d after 1 laundering Class 4B,minSodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4B,min 7.5.10Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4B,min 7.5.11Laundering 7.5.2Shade change Class 4B,minStaining Class 4C,minCrocking 7.5.3Dry Class 4D,minWet Class 4D,minWater 7.5.4Shade change Class 4B,minStaining Class 4C,minChlorina
25、ted Pool Class 4B7.5.5Perspiration 7.5.6Shade change Class 4BStaining Class 4CSea water 7.5.7Shade change Class 4B,minStaining Class 4C,minOzoneShade change Class 34B,minLight (20 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4B,min 7.5.9Flammability Class 1 or Class 2 7.6ASee Note 2.BAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change
26、.CAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.DAATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.D3994 1326.4 Test Specimens Take the number of specimens di-rected in each of the applicable test methods. Perform the testson the fabric as it will reach the customer. Any “partiallyfinished” or “post-finish” fabrics should
27、be processed inaccordance with the fabric manufacturers instructions.6.5 If the applicable test method does not specify thenumber of specimens, use the procedures in Practice D2905 todetermine the number of specimens per laboratory samplingunit. Use (1) a reliable estimate of the variability of indi
28、vidualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory, (2)a95 % probability level, and (3) an allowable difference of 5 %of the average between the test results on laboratory samplingunits and the average for the laboratory sampling unit. Theaverage for a laboratory sampling unit is the av
29、erage thatwould be obtained by applying the test method to all of thepotential specimens from that laboratory sampling unit.7. Test Methods7.1 Breaking Force Determine the dry breaking force, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in TestMethod D5034, using a constant rate of tr
30、averse (CRT) tensiletesting machine with the speed of the pulling clamp at 300 + 10mm (12 + 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 2Fabrics that include fibers which are known to lose strengthwhen wet, such as rayon, should be tested for wet breaking strength, also.NOTE 3If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-exten
31、sion (CRE)testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be as agreedbetween the purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained with the CRT and the CREmachines. Consequently these two breaking load testers cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case
32、 of controversy, the CRT machine shall prevail.7.2 Resistance to Yarn SlippageDetermine the resistanceto yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D434.NOTE 4The precision of Test Method D434 has not been established,and it may not be suitable for fabrics with low yarn counts in terms of thenumber of
33、 ends and picks per inch.7.3 Tear Strength Determine the tear strength in thenonstretch direction as directed in Test Method D1424.NOTE 5If preferred, the use of Test Methods D2261 or D2622 ispermitted with existing requirements as given in this standard. There maybe no overall correlation between t
34、he results obtained by the tongue tearmethod and the Elmendorf method. Consequently these two tear testerscannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, Test MethodD1424 shall prevail.7.4 Dimensional Change:7.4.1 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as di
35、rected in the applicableprocedure in AATCC 135 or as agreed between the purchaserand supplier.7.4.1.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas agreed between the purchaser and the supplier.7.5 Colorfastness:7.5.1 Burnt Gas Fumes Determine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the origina
36、l fabric and after one launderingas directed in AATCC Test Method 23.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.4.1.1.7.5.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC TestMethod 61. The test conditions shall be agreed betw
37、een thepurchaser and the supplier.7.5.3 Colorfastness to CrockingDetermine the colorfast-ness to dry and wet crocking as directed in AATCC TestMethod 8 for solid shades and AATCC Test Method 116 forprints or as agreed between the purchaser and the supplier.7.5.4 Colorfastness to WaterDetermine the c
38、olorfastnessto water as directed in AATCC Test Method 107.7.5.5 Colorfastness to Water-Chlorinated PoolDeterminethe colorfastness as directed in AATCC Test Method 162.7.5.6 Colorfastness to PerspirationDetermine the color-fastness to perspiration as directed in AATCC Test Method 15.7.5.7 Colorfastne
39、ss to Sea WaterDetermine the colorfast-ness to sea water as directed in AATCC Test Method 106.7.5.8 Colorfastness to OzoneDetermine the colorfastnessto ozone as directed in AATCC Test Method 129.7.5.9 Colorfastness to LightDetermine the colorfastnessto light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.3.NOT
40、E 7There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Test Method 16.3, with nooverall correlations between them. Consequently, these machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with theWater Cooled Xenon
41、Arc machine listed in Option 3 shall prevail.7.5.10 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite BleachDetermine the colorfastness to chlorine bleach as directed inAATCC Test Method 188.7.5.11 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine BleachDetermine the colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach as directedin AATCC
42、 Test Method 172.7.6 Flammability The flammability requirements shall beas agreed between the purchaser and the supplier, providedthey meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the FlammableFabric Act Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 fabric; performance; specification; swimwearD3994 133ASTM International takes
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44、onsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addresse
45、d to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the
46、address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the ASTM website (www.astm.org/COPYRIGHT/).D3994 134
