1、Designation: D 4035 02Standard Performance Specification forKnitted Necktie and Scarf Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4035; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A
2、number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers knitted necktieand scarf fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture oftextile fibers.1.2 T
3、hese requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.3 The following precautionary statement pertains only tothe test methods portion, Section 7, of this specification. Thisstandard does not purport to address all of the safety concern
4、s,if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish appropriate safety and healthpractices and determine the applicability of regulatory limita-tions prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 2594
5、Test Methods for Stretch Properties of KnittedFabrics Having Low PowerD 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor TextilesD 3786 Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength ofKnitted Goods and Nonwoven FabricsDiaphragmBu
6、rsting Strength Tester MethodD 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of KnittedGoodsConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test2.2 AATCC Methods:38-1977 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC CrockmeterMethod15-1979 Colorfastness to Perspiration16-1977 Colorfastness to Light23-1975 Colorfastness to B
7、urnt Gas Fumes61-1975 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Launder-ing, Commercial: Accelerated96-1975 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven andKnitted Textiles Except Wool116-1977 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crock-meter Method124-1978 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After
8、 Re-peated Home Launderings132-1977 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135-1978 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laun-derings of Durable Press Woven of Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Pr
9、ocedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Standard:416 CFR 1610Standard for Flammability of Clothing Tex-tilesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give only thepermanent part
10、 of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 necktiea decorative band of fabric worn around theneck and tied in a knot or a bow.3.1.2 scarfin apparel, an oblong or square piece of clothworn
11、for warmth or as a decorative item.3.2 For definitions of textile terms used in this specification,refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC test methods and toTerminology D 123.1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommitt
12、ee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved May 10, 2002. Published June 2002. Originallypublished as D 4035 81. Last previous edition D 4035 95.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandard
13、s volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.4Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.1
14、Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics for neckties and scarfs shallconform to the specification requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreem
15、ent between the purchaser and theseller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics th
16、at do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specificatio
17、n D 4035except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case of contro-versy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be usedas a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demandsdictate varyi
18、ng performance parameters for any particular styleof fabric.5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and testmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Tests shall be performed on the fabric as it will reach theconsumer. Any “partially
19、finished” or “post-finished” fabricsshould first be processed in accordance with the fabric manu-facturers instructions.6.2 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirected in each of the applicable test methods.6.2.1 If the
20、re has been no prior agreement and the testmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theprocedures in Practice D 2905 to determine the number ofspecimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below the
21、 lot average (that is, the average thatwould be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)when using a reliable estimate of variability of individualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (see Note 1)7.1 Burstin
22、g StrengthDetermine the bursting strength, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in TestMethod D 3786 or Test Method D 3787.NOTE 2There is no overall correlation between the results obtainedwith the CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and thediaphragm bursting teste
23、r. Consequently, these two bursting testers cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment method shall prevail.NOTE 3The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the di
24、aphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the seller using randomized replicatespecimens of the
25、material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Pressing and Finishing During Manufacturing5Mark specimen(s) as directed in 4.5 of AATCC Method 135.Press and finish specimen(s) as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller with respect to time cycles, tempera-ture, steam, vacuum, and mech
26、anical pressure of the presshead. Measure the specimen(s) and calculate the dimensionalchange as directed in Sections 6 and 7 of AATCC Method 135.7.2.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser and the seller, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press according to the cycle in 1
27、0.1.4.1 through 10.1.4.5of Test Methods D 2724.7.2.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Method 135-1978 or as agreed uponbetween the buyer and the seller (Note 4 and Note 5).7.2.2.1 The wash conditions and drying p
28、rocedure shall beas specified by the seller.5The development of a standard method has been referred to SubcommitteeD13.59 on Fabric Test Methods, General.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class for colorfastness and DP rating is based on a numericalscale of 5 for negligible or no color change,
29、 color transfer, or wrinkle to1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numericalrating in Table 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.Characteristic Requirements SectionBursting strength (load) (ball burst) 50 lbf (222 N) 7.1Dimensional change:Pressing and finishing 2 %
30、 max 7.2.1After five launderings 5 % max 7.2.2After three dry cleanings 3 % max 7.2.3Growth 3 % max 7.2.4Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes, 2 cycles: 7.3.1Shade change, original fabricShade change after one laun-dering or one dry cleaningClass 4AminClass 4AminSodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4Amin 7.3.7
31、Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4Amin 7.3.8Laundering: 7.3.2Shade changeStainingClass 4AminClass 3BminDrycleaning: 7.3.3Shade change Class 4AminCrocking: 7.3.4DryWetClass 4CminClass 3CminPerspiration 7.3.5Shade changeStainingClass 4AminClass 3BminLight (40 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4Amin 7.3.6Fabric appe
32、arance (see 7.4.1.1) DP 3.5Dmin 7.4Flammability Class 1 or Class 2 7.5AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.DFor durable press fabrics only.D40350227.2.3 Dry-cleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three dry cleanings in a
33、ccordance with Section10.1.1 through 10.1.5 of Test Methods D 2724 (Note 4 andNote 5).7.2.4 GrowthDetermine the growth of the fabric as di-rected in Test Methods D 2594.NOTE 4Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not dry-cleanable and is so lab
34、eled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. Goods labeled “Dry-cleanable” are to bedry-cleaned only.NOTE 5Specimens prepared for 7.2.1 may be used for 7.2.
35、2 and 7.2.3as desired. When this is done the dimensional change due to laundering ordrycleaning is calculated using Eq 1. The dimensional change to pressingand finishing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is notadditive to the dimensional change to laundering or drycleaning of
36、 thefabric as it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).Percent Dimensional Change 5 100D12 D2!/D2(1)where:D1= measurement after laundering or dry-cleaning, andD2= measurement after pressing and finishing.7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original
37、 fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.1.Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.3.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applic
38、able procedure of AATCCMethod 61-1975. The test conditions shall be as specified bythe seller (Note 4).7.3.3 Dry cleaningDetermine colorfastness to dry clean-ing as directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 4).7.3.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for so
39、lid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller.7.3.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Method 15.7.3.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.NOTE 7There are distinct differences in sp
40、ectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the Water-Cooled Xenon-Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.
41、7.3.7 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite BleachDetermine colorfastness to sodium hypochlorite bleach asdirected in AATCC Method 188.7.3.8 Colorfastness to NonChlorine BleachDeterminecolorfastness to non-chlorine bleach as directed in AATCCMethod 172.7.4 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appear
42、anceas directed in AATCC Method 124 after laundering using thewash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller, as specified in 7.2.2.1 forwashable fabrics or as specified in 7.2.3 for dry-cleanablefabrics (see Note 4).7.4.1 For fabrics not intended for use
43、in durable-pressgarments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in AATCC Method 96.7.4.1.1 The fabric smoothness durable-press (DP) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the DP rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 DP rating from that of thefabric before it is l
44、aundered or dry-cleaned.7.5 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, exceptwhen regulated by applicable Government mandatory standard(see section 2.3).8. Keywords8.1 necktieASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of a
45、ny patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to re
46、vision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. You
47、r comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copy
48、righted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D4035023
