1、Designation: D 4118 01Standard Performance Specification forWomens Woven Coverall, Dungaree, Overall, and ShopCoat Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4118; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision,
2、the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven fabrics,composed of any textile fiber or mixture of textile f
3、ibers, to beused in the manufacture of womens coveralls, dungarees,overalls and shop coats.1.2 This performance specification recognizes two levels ofwearing severity relative to performance requirements for thesefabrics.1.3 This performance specification is not applicable towoven fabrics intended f
4、or use in the manufacture ofindustrial-protective clothing.1.4 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is therespo
5、nsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byF
6、alling-Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) ApparatusD 2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by theTongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)D 2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Te
7、nsile Testing Machine)3D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor TextilesD 5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongationof Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)2.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC C
8、rockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial: Accelerated96 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven andKnitted Textiles Except Wool116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary
9、Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After RepeatedHome Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Woven or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach
10、in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure No. 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure No. 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure No. 3 Chromatic Transference Scale.2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety Commis-sion Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations2
11、.4 Military Standard:6MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedure and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.1This
12、specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved May 10, 2001. Published July 2001. Originallypublished as D 4118 82. Last previous edition D 4118 95a.2For referenced ASTM standards, v
13、isit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Discontinued; see 1994 Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.4AATCC Technical Manual, avai
14、lable from American Association of TextileChemists and Colorists, P. O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., P
15、hiladelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3. Terminology3.1 For definitions of textile terms used in this specification,refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC methods and toTerminology D
16、123.3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:3.2.1 Type I appareldesigned for generally heavy work. Itmay be subjected to severe exposure to breaking and tearingstresses indoors or out.3.2.2 Type II appareldesigned for light work or leisureactivities. It may not be expected to undergo seve
17、re physicalstresses.3.3 Definitions of terms found in a dictionary of commonterms are suitable for this performance specification.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics for womens coverall, dunga-ree, overall, and shop coats shall conform to the specificationrequirements in Table
18、 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon agreement between the purchaser and the supplier,fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from
19、these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified upon agree-ment between the purchaser and the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify
20、that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4118except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5
21、.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,ta
22、ke at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at l
23、east 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class for colorfastness and DP rating is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 forvery severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numerical rating in
24、Table 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.Characteristic Requirements SectionBreaking strength (load)(CRT): 7.1Type I 222 N (50 lbf), minType II 178 N (40 lbf), minTongue-tear strength(CRT): 7.2Type I 11 N (2.5 lbf), minType II 9 N (2.0 lbf), minDimensional changePressing and Finishing (DP
25、fabrics) 2 % max 7.3.1Laundering (DP fabrics) 2.5 % max 7.3.2Laundering (non-DP fabrics) 3.0 % max 7.3.2.1Drycleaning 2.5 % max 7.3.3Colorfastness: Non-Indigo Dyed Indigo-DyedBurnt gas fumes2 cycles: 7.4.1Shade change, original fabric Class 4A, min Class 4A, minShade change, after 1 laundering or dr
26、ycleaning Class 4A, min Class 4A, minLaundering: 7.4.2Shade change Class 4A, min Class 2A, minStaining Class 3B, min Class 2B, minCrocking: 7.4.3Dry Class 4C, min Class 3C, minWet Class 3C, min Class 2C, minPerspiration: 7.4.4Shade change Class 4A, min Class 3A, minStaining Class 3B, min Class 3B, m
27、inLight (20 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4A, min Step 4A, min 7.4.5DrycleaningShade change Class 4A, min Class 3A, min 7.4.6Chlorine Bleach Class 4A, min Class 4A, min 7.4.7Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4A, min Class 4A, min 7.4.8Fabric appearance (see 7.5.1.1) DP 3.5 min DP 3.5 min 7.5Flammability pass p
28、ass 7.6AAATCC Gray Scale for Color change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.D41180127. Test Method (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking ForceDetermine the dry breaking force, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in TestMethod D 5034, using a constant rate
29、of traverse (CRT)tensile-testing machine with the speed of the pulling clamp at300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 2If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)tensile-testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be asagreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier. The
30、re may be nooverall correlation between the results obtained with the CRT and the CREmachines. Consequently, these two machines may not be used inter-changeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machine shall prevail.7.2 Tearing StrengthDetermine the tearing strength asdirected in Test Method D 2262.
31、NOTE 3If preferred, the use of Test Methods D 1424 and D 2261 ispermitted with existing requirements as given in this specification. Theremay be no overall correlation between the results obtained with thetongue-tear methods and the Elmendorf method. Consequently, these threemethods cannot be used i
32、nterchangeably. In case of controversy, TestMethod D 2262 shall prevail.7.3 Dimensional Change:7.3.1 Pressing and Finishing During GarmentManufacturing7Mark specimen(s) as directed in 4.3.1 ofAATCC Test Method 135. Press and finish specimen(s) asagreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier wit
33、hrespect to time cycles, temperature, steam, vacuum, andmechanical pressure of the press head. Measure the speci-men(s) and calculate the dimensional change as directed inSections 6 and 7 of AATCC Test Method 135.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum-dimensionalchange after 5 launderings as directed
34、 in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Test Method 135 or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier.7.3.2.1 Non-durable press fabrics shall be ironed beforemeasuring as directed in Section 5.12 of AATCC TestMethod 96.7.3.2.2 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by t
35、he supplier.NOTE 4Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not dry-cleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish that is soluble in thesolvent, or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be t
36、hecase with poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. “Dry-cleanable” goods are to bedrycleaned only.NOTE 5Specimens prepared for 7.3.1 may be used for 7.3.2 or 7.3.3as desired. When this is done, the dimensional change due to launderingor drycleaning is calculated using Eq 1. The dimensional change topressing an
37、d finishing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user.It is not additive to the dimensional change to laundering or drycleaningof the fabric as it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).Percent Dimensional Change 5 100D12 D2!/D2(1)where:D1= the measurement after laundering and drycleaning, an
38、dD2= the measurement after pressing and finishing.7.3.3 DrycleaningDetermine the maximum-dimensionalchange after three drycleanings as directed in 10.1.1 through10.1.5 of Test Methods D 2724.7.4 Colorfastness:7.4.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric a
39、nd after one launderingor one drycleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 23.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.3.2.2.7.4.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure to AATCC TestMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as
40、 specified by thesupplier (Note 5).7.4.3 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shadesand AATCC Test Method 116 for prints, or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier.7.4.4 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas
41、 directed in AATCC Test Method 15.7.4.5 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Test Method 16.NOTE 7There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Test Method 16, with nooverall correlations between them. Consequently,
42、these machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with theWater Cooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.4.6 DrycleaningDetermine colorfastness to drycleaningas directed in AATCC Test Method 132.7.4.7 Colorfastness to Chlorine BleachDetermine c
43、olor-fastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.7.4.8 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine BleachDeterminecolorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.7.5 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Test Method 124 after laundering usingthe wash-and-wear cy
44、cle or the normal cycle as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier as specified in 7.3.2.2or drycleaning as specified in 7.3.3 for dry-cleanable fabrics(Note 5).7.5.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable pressgarments determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in 7.3
45、.2.1.7.5.1.1 The fabric smoothness or durable press (DP) ratingof such fabrics, and the DP rating of dry-cleaned fabrics shallhave decreased no more than12 DP rating from that of thefabric before it is laundered or drycleaned.7.6 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon betwe
46、en purchaser and supplier, provided theymeet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the Flammable Fabric ActRegulations.8. Keywords8.1 career apparel; fabric; pants; performance; specification7The development of a method has been referred to Subcommittee D13.59 onFabric Test Methods, General.D4118013ASTM I
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