1、Designation: D4119 14Standard Performance Specification forMens and Boys Knitted Dress Shirt Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4119; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revisi
2、on. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers knitted fabricscomprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers, used inmens and boys dr
3、ess shirts.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concern
4、s, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD2594
5、 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted FabricsHaving Low PowerD2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-o
6、f-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst TestD7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel2.2 AATCC Methods:38 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated96 Dimensional Cha
7、nges in Laundering of Woven andKnitted Textiles Except Wool116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after RepeatedHome Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Launder-ing172 Colorfastness to P
8、owdered Non-chlorine Bleach inHome Laundering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure No. 1 Gray Scale For Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure No. 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure No. 8 AATCC 9-Step ChromaticTransference ScaleA Glossary of AATCC
9、 Standard Terminology2.3 Federal Standard:416 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety CommissionSubchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations2.4 Military Standard:5MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this performance specificatio
10、ngive only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, orother test methods. The current editions of each test method cited shallprevail.3. Terminology3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel, see TerminologyD7022.3.1.1 The following term is relevant to this standard: dimen-sional change
11、.3.2 For definitions of all other textile terms see TerminologyD123.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2014. Published March 2014. Originallyappr
12、oved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 2008 as D4119 01(2008).DOI: 10.1520/D4119-14.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document
13、Summary page onthe ASTM website.3AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of TextileChemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.4Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.5Av
14、ailable from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States13.3 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testin
15、g,refer to specific AATCC test method, or the Glossary ofAATCC Standard Terminology.3.4 Definitions of terms found in a dictionary of commonterms are suitable for this performance specification.3.5 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:3.5.1 pressing and finishingthis term takes into accoun
16、t allof the industrial pressing and finishing treatments used ingarment production.NOTE 2No method is available for reproducing on a laboratory levelthe results of industrial press or finishing treatments, or both, used in themanufacture of garments.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of
17、 fabrics for mens and boys knitteddress shirts shall conform to the specification requirements inTable 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon agreement between the purchaser and the seller,fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this performance specifica
18、-tion.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified upon agree-m
19、ent between the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D4119except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in
20、case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andmethods are discussed in the app
21、ropriate sections of thespecified methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing, takeat random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory Sam
22、pleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Method (See Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in TestMetho
23、d D3787 using an approved type of constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) machine equipped with a bursting attachmentor Test Method D3786 using an approved type of diaphragmbursting tester as agreed upon between the purchaser and theseller.NOTE 3There is no overall correlation between the results obtainedwi
24、th the CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and thediaphragm bursting tester. Consequently, these two bursting testers shouldnot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment method shall prevail.NOTE 4The precision of the ball burst m
25、ethod using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratory of
26、 thepurchaser and the laboratory of the seller using randomized replicatespecimens of the material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Pressing and Finishing During ManufacturingMarkspecimen(s) as directed in 5.4 of AATCC Method 135. Pressand finish specimen(s) as agreed upon between the pu
27、rchaserand the seller with respect to time cycles, temperature, steam,vacuum, and mechanical pressure of the press head. Measurethe specimen(s) and calculate the dimensional change asdirected in Sections 4 and 7 of AATCC Method 135 (see Note2).7.2.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-ch
28、aser and the seller, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedTABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Grade in a,b,c and SA is based on a numerical scale of 5 fornegligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 for verysevere color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numerical rating
29、inTable 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.Characteristic Requirements SectionBursting strength (load) (ball burst) 222 N (50 lbf) 7.1Dimensional change:Pressing and finishing 2 % max 7.2.1After 5 launderings (see 7.2.2.2 ifshrinkage exceeds 3%)3 % max 7.2.2After 3 drycleanings 3 % max 7.2
30、.3Growth 3 % max 7.2.4Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes2 cycles:Shade change, original fabric Grade 4A,min 7.3.1Shade change after 1 launderingor1 drycleaningGrade 4A,minLaundering:EShade changeStainingGrade 4A,minGrade 3B,min7.3.2Drycleaning:Shade change Grade 4A,min 7.3.3Crocking:EDryWetGrade 4C,minGr
31、ade 3C,min7.3.4Perspiration:EShade changeStainingGrade 4A,minGrade 3B,min7.3.5Light (20 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Grade 4A,min 7.3.6Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4A,min 7.3.7Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4A,min 7.3.8Fabric smoothness appearance (see7.4.1)FlammabilitySA 3.5D,minPass7.47.5AAATCC G
32、ray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.DFor durable press fabrics only.ESee Note 8.D4119 142steam press and using a cycle as directed in 10.1.4.1 through10.1.4.5 of Test Methods D2724.7.2.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum-dimensionalchang
33、e after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Method 135 (Notes 5 and 6).7.2.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the seller.7.2.2.2 When the dimensional change after five launderingsexceeds 3 %, determine the stretch of the fabric after fiv
34、elaunderings as directed in Test Methods D2594 using a 2.2-N(0.5-lbf) load. If the difference between the percent stretch ofthe laundered fabric and the percent shrinkage due to launder-ing does not exceed 3 % shrinkage, then the fabric meets thespecification requirements in Table 1.7.2.3 Drycleanin
35、gDetermine the maximum-dimensionalchange after three drycleanings as directed in 10.1.1 through10.1.4 of Test Methods D2724 (Notes 5 and 6).7.2.4 GrowthDetermine the growth of the fabric as di-rected in Test Methods D2594.NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable exceptwhere all or
36、part of the fabric is not dry-cleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish that is soluble in thesolvent, or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be thecase with poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. Goods labeled “Dry-cleanable” are tobe drycleaned
37、only.NOTE 6Specimens prepared for 7.2.1 may be used for 7.2.2 and 7.2.3as desired. When this is done, subtract the pressing and curing dimen-sional change from the total dimensional change to obtain that portion dueto laundering or drycleaning. The dimensional change to pressing andfinishing is dete
38、rmined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is not tobe added to the dimensional change due to laundering or drycleaning ofthe fabric as it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after o
39、ne launderingor one drycleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 7Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.1.Drycleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.3.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AAT
40、CCMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as directed in AATCCMethod 135 (Note 5).NOTE 8It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained bystandard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades thatcontain a combination of polyester and spandex, or their blends, may notshow the full
41、 staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is,therefore, recommended that the staining results obtained by these testsnot be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.7.3.3 DrycleaningDetermine colorfastness to drycleaningas directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 5).7.3.4 CrockingDetermi
42、ne colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints, or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller (see Note 8).7.3.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Method 15 (see Note 8).7.3.6 LightDe
43、termine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.3 Option 3.7.3.7 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite BleachDetermine colorfastness to light as directed in AATCCMethod 16. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller.7.3.8 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-chlorine BleachDetermine
44、 colorfastness to light as directed in AATCCMethod 16. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller.7.4 Fabric Smoothness AppearanceDetermine the fabricappearance as directed inAATCC Method 124 after launderingusing the wash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreedupon between the purc
45、haser and seller as specified in 7.2.2.1for washable fabrics or as specified in 7.2.3 for dry-cleanablefabrics (see Note 5).7.4.1 The fabric smoothness SA rating of such fabrics, andthe SA rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shall have decreased nomore than 0.5 SA rating from that of the fabric before it
46、 islaundered or drycleaned.7.5 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, providedthey meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the FlammableFabrics Act Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 shirtASTM International takes no position respecting the validit
47、y of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject
48、 to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarter
49、s. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610
